Hello

Ok, I've done it now.

My wife got a quote on re-tiling our ensuite which nearly gave me a heart
attack and prompted me to rashly say, "sod that I'll do it myself".

The tiling doesn't worry me too much since I've done that before with no
probs (ok it was on virgin plasterboard). But how to take off the old
ceramic tiles - they're wall to wall and floor to ceiling ????

I was planning on taking a hammer and chisel to them - but is there a
better/recommended way of doing it.
I don't suppose you can steam them off ;-)

Des

I was planning on taking a hammer and chisel to them - but is there a
better/recommended way of doing it.

See thread "Following on from the SDS drill discussion earlier, anyone rate
NuTool stuff?" above. I'd estimate doing the job you suggest with hammer and
chisel would take half a day and leave hundreds of shards of tile stuck to
the wall. With an SDS chisel, about 15 minutes. Most tiles will come off
whole and unbroken. It is simply inconceivable that you wouldn't use an SDS
chisel for this job. It is an intensely satisfying job.

Christian.

If the existing ones have been properly fixed, be prepared for some
plastering!
Because of seriously naff wall construction, I'm tiling over existing tiles.
Group opinion on this is mixed do a Google group search for tiles on tiles
and similar subjects.

HTH

Phil

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
I was planning on taking a hammer and chisel to them - but is there a
better/recommended way of doing it.

See thread "Following on from the SDS drill discussion earlier, anyone
rate
NuTool stuff?" above. I'd estimate doing the job you suggest with hammer
and
chisel would take half a day and leave hundreds of shards of tile stuck to
the wall. With an SDS chisel, about 15 minutes. Most tiles will come off
whole and unbroken. It is simply inconceivable that you wouldn't use an
SDS
chisel for this job. It is an intensely satisfying job.


Sounds just the job.

I'm assuming that one uses some form of chissel attachement on the drill
when removing tiles?
And what exactly does SDS stand for?

Des

"TheScullster" wrote in message
...
If the existing ones have been properly fixed, be prepared for some
plastering!
Because of seriously naff wall construction, I'm tiling over existing
tiles.
Group opinion on this is mixed do a Google group search for tiles on tiles
and similar subjects.

HTH

Phil



I defiantly recommend leaving them on and tiling over them, providing they
are solidly fixed to the wall. When I was tiling I tiled a 105 bathroom
hotel and was on layer four in some bathrooms. Never had any problems.

Older tiles are quite thin (6 mm) so you won't be gaining much room.

Be sure to degrease and thoroughly clean the surface of the old tiles. It
has been recommended that you sand the glaze too on in this group. This is
not necessary and if you read the instructions on any decent tile adhesive
you will find this is the case.

If you need any tools or equipment have a look at my professional tilers
tools web site

www.tradetiler.com

David

"TheScullster" wrote in message
...
If the existing ones have been properly fixed, be prepared for some
plastering!
Because of seriously naff wall construction, I'm tiling over existing
tiles.
Group opinion on this is mixed do a Google group search for tiles on tiles
and similar subjects.

Well, my opinion... I've taken tiles off before and the wall required
replastering. I have recently just done my bathroom here, and tiled over
existing ones. I didn't have too many problems...

On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 18:12:44 +0000 (UTC), "Des"
wrote:


"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
.net...
I was planning on taking a hammer and chisel to them - but is there a
better/recommended way of doing it.

See thread "Following on from the SDS drill discussion earlier, anyone
rate
NuTool stuff?" above. I'd estimate doing the job you suggest with hammer
and
chisel would take half a day and leave hundreds of shards of tile stuck to
the wall. With an SDS chisel, about 15 minutes. Most tiles will come off
whole and unbroken. It is simply inconceivable that you wouldn't use an
SDS
chisel for this job. It is an intensely satisfying job.


Sounds just the job.

I'm assuming that one uses some form of chissel attachement on the drill
when removing tiles?
And what exactly does SDS stand for?

If you search on uk.d-i-y for articles containing SDS since 01\01\04
there are a few threads going into this subject.
...

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

"Lurch" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 18:12:44 +0000 (UTC), "Des"

If you search on uk.d-i-y for articles containing SDS since 01\01\04
there are a few threads going into this subject.
..

Lots of useful information there - thanks.

Looks like these tools are heavy and can do a lot of damage?
I guess good protective clothing and masks are essential.

Des

Btw, I'm still no wiser as to what SDS actually stands for!!

"Des" wrote in message
...
Lots of useful information there - thanks.

Looks like these tools are heavy and can do a lot of damage?
I guess good protective clothing and masks are essential.

Most importantly goggles.

Btw, I'm still no wiser as to what SDS actually stands for!!

Neither are most of the people on here! ;-)
Someone is still claiming it's Special Drill System!

On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 20:03:27 +0000 (UTC), "Des"
wrote:


"Lurch" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 18:12:44 +0000 (UTC), "Des"

If you search on uk.d-i-y for articles containing SDS since 01\01\04
there are a few threads going into this subject.
..

Lots of useful information there - thanks.

Looks like these tools are heavy and can do a lot of damage?
I guess good protective clothing and masks are essential.

Des

Btw, I'm still no wiser as to what SDS actually stands for!!


From the Google uk.d-i-y archive.

"SDS originally stood for the german Steck - Dreh- Sitzt (insert -
twist - stay) and simply refers to the patented Bosch "keyless chuck"
system, whereby drill bits (and saw blades in jigsaws) can be
replaced without the need for an allen key. Today SDS stands for
Special Direct System or in german Spannung Durch System."
...

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

In article , Des
URL:mailto

And what exactly does SDS stand for?

Suitably Dangerous System. :-)

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

Des wrote:

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...

I was planning on taking a hammer and chisel to them - but is there a
better/recommended way of doing it.

See thread "Following on from the SDS drill discussion earlier, anyone

rate

NuTool stuff?" above. I'd estimate doing the job you suggest with hammer

and

chisel would take half a day and leave hundreds of shards of tile stuck to
the wall. With an SDS chisel, about 15 minutes. Most tiles will come off
whole and unbroken. It is simply inconceivable that you wouldn't use an

SDS

chisel for this job. It is an intensely satisfying job.



Sounds just the job.

I'm assuming that one uses some form of chissel attachement on the drill
when removing tiles?
And what exactly does SDS stand for?



"Simply Dearer, Stupid"

Use a hammer and cold chisel. Reskim if necessary. Or tile over
existing. How much is two days of your time worth, against a shiny new
gimmick that takes space to store it? :-()

OTOH if you haven't got an electric tile cutting sawbench, get one. It
saves DAYS of nibbling and farting about when fitting tiles round pipes etc.


Des

"Des" wrote:

Hello Des

D| I was planning on taking a hammer and chisel to them - but
D| is there a better/recommended way of doing it.

YES!

Sorry, but I wish somebody had told me this before I spent so long
with grazed knuckles.

USE A GARDEN SPADE!

That's it. Extremely fast method of removing tiles. May damage
plasterboard if you're brutal, but then so will doing it any other
way.

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/

On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 16:53:58 +0000 (UTC), "Des" wrote:
Hello

Ok, I've done it now.

My wife got a quote on re-tiling our ensuite which nearly gave me a heart
attack and prompted me to rashly say, "sod that I'll do it myself".

The tiling doesn't worry me too much since I've done that before with no
probs (ok it was on virgin plasterboard). But how to take off the old
ceramic tiles - they're wall to wall and floor to ceiling ????

I was planning on taking a hammer and chisel to them - but is there a
better/recommended way of doing it.
I don't suppose you can steam them off ;-)

Tile over the top, you get a nice flat surface to start with .......

Rick

i have remeoved tiles from this type of wall before.
Way i did it, and very succesfully, was to first remove much of the
groout, by use of a bradall, or similar. Then working from an open
edge, use a flexible paint scraper, and knock it down with a hammer
into the back of the tile and the wall. Some come off clean, some
break apart, but there is minimul damage to the wall. Just make sure
its a flexible wide scraper.

Come on, what you got to lose. You probabl have the tools already.

toad.

just trying to floor tile the kitchen, and bought a £40 plasplugs
tilecutter from Argos on recomendation fo this ng. Best tool I ever
bought. Worth every penny.
BUT! How on earth do you tile so its all perfectly flat? Took me 2
hours to put 6 tiles down this afternoon. Itsflat, but god, its going
to tke all week!

On 28 Feb 2004 15:17:27 -0800,
(toadoftoadhall) wrote:

BUT! How on earth do you tile so its all perfectly flat? Took me 2
hours to put 6 tiles down this afternoon. Itsflat, but god, its going
to tke all week!

I don't understand your difficulty!

The first premise is that the wall you are tiling onto must be
reasonably flat (small undulations acceptable).

Then you lay a bed of tile adhesive which you furrow with the supplied
tool - this gives about 50% surface contact area with the tile.

Next lay tile in position and wiggle it to get adhesive to squeegee
behind the tile. At this point you can easily determine whether the
tile is flush with the one(s) alongside.

I've done about 100 tiles over the last couple of days. Judging by
time spent I reckon on doing about a dozen an hour. That's bound to be
a lot slower than a pro who does tiling every day, but I feel my
progress is not unreasonable - and I am getting faster with practice.

PoP

-----

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"PoP" wrote in message
...
I don't understand your difficulty!

The first premise is that the wall you are tiling onto must be
reasonably flat (small undulations acceptable).

Toad was asking about FLOOR tiling!

On Mon, 1 Mar 2004 00:07:14 +0000 (UTC), "John"
wrote:

Toad was asking about FLOOR tiling!

Ah, but his response started out by talking about WALL tiling. You
surely aren't expecting me to read the whole damn message before
hitting the reply key are you?

Tsk, some people.....

PoP

-----

My published email address probably won't work. If
you need to contact me please submit your comments
via the web form at http://www.anyoldtripe.co.uk

I apologise for the additional effort, however the
level of unsolicited email I receive makes it
impossible to advertise my real email address!