Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?


https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg
--

Mike

On Thursday, 23 January 2020 11:28:36 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?
https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg

Remove the oven first - usually if you open the door you will see screws in the edge holding it to the cabinet sides.

The clamps holding the hob to the worktop can then be loosened and swivelled from the underside.

Owain

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 03:34:47 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Thursday, 23 January 2020 11:28:36 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?
https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg

Remove the oven first - usually if you open the door you will see screws in the edge holding it to the cabinet sides.

The clamps holding the hob to the worktop can then be loosened and swivelled from the underside.

Owain

Thanks Owain, I didn't want to start pulling too much apart if there
was an easier way.
--

Mike

On Thursday, 23 January 2020 11:38:20 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Thanks Owain, I didn't want to start pulling too much apart if there
was an easier way.

That *is* the easy way.

It's how it went in :-)

Owain

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 03:34:47 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Remove the oven first - usually if you open the door you will see screws in the edge holding it to the cabinet sides.

Possibly it is sufficient to remove the plate behind the oven knobs, and then
get at teh fixings from underneath. .

And this https://youtu.be/Qif9psHqymY suggests that some Eletrolux hobs are
just dropped in place.


Thomas Prufer

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 03:40:24 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Thursday, 23 January 2020 11:38:20 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Thanks Owain, I didn't want to start pulling too much apart if there
was an easier way.

That *is* the easy way.

It's how it went in :-)

Owain

Much appreciated. I have done some big jobs in the past that could
have been much smaller jobs, if only I'd known.
--

Mike

On 23/01/2020 11:53, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 03:34:47 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Remove the oven first - usually if you open the door you will see screws in the edge holding it to the cabinet sides.

Possibly it is sufficient to remove the plate behind the oven knobs, and then
get at teh fixings from underneath. .

And this https://youtu.be/Qif9psHqymY suggests that some Eletrolux hobs are
just dropped in place.


Thomas Prufer


And he even read the manuals !.

What sort of 'tradesman' does that ?. :-)

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 12:53:56 +0100, Thomas Prufer
wrote:

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 03:34:47 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Remove the oven first - usually if you open the door you will see screws in the edge holding it to the cabinet sides.

Possibly it is sufficient to remove the plate behind the oven knobs, and then
get at teh fixings from underneath. .

And this https://youtu.be/Qif9psHqymY suggests that some Eletrolux hobs are
just dropped in place.


Thomas Prufer

Nice video. Such a smooth operation.
--

Mike

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 12:11:45 +0000, Andrew
wrote:

And he even read the manuals !.

What sort of 'tradesman' does that ?. :-)

Sure giveaway that he's an actor?

https://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2016/03/stockphotowoman-500.jpg

(Photo of a model holding a self-evidently cold soldering iron.)


Thomas Prufer

On 23/01/2020 11:38, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 03:34:47 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Thursday, 23 January 2020 11:28:36 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?
https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg

Remove the oven first - usually if you open the door you will see screws in the edge holding it to the cabinet sides.

The clamps holding the hob to the worktop can then be loosened and swivelled from the underside.

Owain

Thanks Owain, I didn't want to start pulling too much apart if there
was an easier way.

Once you have it out (or maybe even before) you might want to check that
the cable from the consumer unit is big enough for the induction hob
that you intend to install. Induction can take a whole lot more current
than a standard hob.

On 23/01/2020 11:28, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?


https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg


Besides the 'mechanical' side, check the electrical side. Our induction
hob required a dedicated spur (30A from memory) which the company who
did the kitchen took care of. (We also needed another one for a 2nd
oven, the existing spur being used for the 1st oven.)

Induction hobs are great by the way. When we were planning the kitchen
change, I wanted a gas hob but Senior Management wanted Induction. I'm
pleased I relented ;-)

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 13:00:09 +0000, Brian Reay wrote:

On 23/01/2020 11:28, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?


https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg


Besides the 'mechanical' side, check the electrical side. Our induction
hob required a dedicated spur (30A from memory) which the company who
did the kitchen took care of. (We also needed another one for a 2nd
oven, the existing spur being used for the 1st oven.)

Induction hobs are great by the way. When we were planning the kitchen
change, I wanted a gas hob but Senior Management wanted Induction. I'm
pleased I relented ;-)

Big help thanks.
--

Mike

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 12:45:44 +0000, Andrew May
wrote:

On 23/01/2020 11:38, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 03:34:47 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Thursday, 23 January 2020 11:28:36 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?
https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg

Remove the oven first - usually if you open the door you will see screws in the edge holding it to the cabinet sides.

The clamps holding the hob to the worktop can then be loosened and swivelled from the underside.

Owain

Thanks Owain, I didn't want to start pulling too much apart if there
was an easier way.

Once you have it out (or maybe even before) you might want to check that
the cable from the consumer unit is big enough for the induction hob
that you intend to install. Induction can take a whole lot more current
than a standard hob.

Great tip! Thanks.
--

Mike

Our Bosch induction hob just drops into place just its own weight and a number of clips gripping the edges of the cutout. The other thing that surprised me is you are not use any sealant.

Richard

On 23/01/2020 13:44, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Our Bosch induction hob just drops into place just its own weight and a number of clips gripping the edges of the cutout. The other thing that surprised me is you are not use any sealant.

Richard


I'm pretty sure our AEG hob came with an integral sealant strip.

Thomas Prufer wrote:

https://youtu.be/Qif9psHqymY suggests that some Eletrolux hobs are just dropped in place.
Do any UK hobs daisy-chain off the oven like that?

Andrew May wrote:

Induction can take a whole lot more current
than a standard hob.

They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired,
I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has
anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ...
underpowered?

"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Andrew May wrote:

Induction can take a whole lot more current than a standard hob.

They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired,
I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has
anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ...
underpowered?

Our new house (new to us) has an Aga. It also has a fitted oven, but no hob,
for use in a hot summer when you might not want the Aga on.

So we bought a portable one-ring induction hob from IKEA. It's rated at 2
kW. It heats a pan of water very quickly: a lot faster than a standard
kettle for the same amount of water.

Tim Streater wrote:

Our Neff came set up limited to 13A. But there is a magic sequence of
button presses to crank the limit up to 20A with a hard-wired circuit.
It has a "b" setting for any ring that will shove all 20A through that
ring. Your pan will boil toot sweet.

I've always been a gas-hob user, and rarely use more than one ring at a
time, but that may have to change to electric ... upcoming decision on
whether to go with bulk LPG tank for boiler which would also allow gas
hob, or go full electric with heatpump and induction hob, I suppose
bottled gas for hob-only would be do-able.

On Thursday, 23 January 2020 15:16:24 UTC, Andy Burns wrote:
Andrew May wrote:

Induction can take a whole lot more current
than a standard hob.

They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired,
I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has
anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ...
underpowered?

I'd have to check, but I think that some induction hobs can be wired to be able to run at full whack OR at a reduced current.

If wired for a lower current, the individual plates are managed to ensure the total draw is within that limit.

On 23/01/2020 15:51, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Streater wrote:

Our Neff came set up limited to 13A. But there is a magic sequence of
button presses to crank the limit up to 20A with a hard-wired circuit.
It has a "b" setting for any ring that will shove all 20A through that
ring. Your pan will boil toot sweet.

I've always been a gas-hob user, and rarely use more than one ring at a
time, but that may have to change to electric ... upcoming decision on
whether to go with bulk LPG tank for boiler which would also allow gas
hob, or go full electric with heatpump and induction hob, I suppose
bottled gas for hob-only would be do-able.
I always preferred gas hobs until I had to switch to induction; I would
not go back to gas.

On 23/01/2020 11:28, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?


https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg


You may just be able to prise the existing hob out by sliding a blade
under the edges. I don;t think the Neff hob I removed was held in. The
Bosh induction hob I bought as a replacement has a configuration option
to set the maximum current itm could draw. I was very pleased that it
just fitted in the same size hold in the worktop.


--
Michael Chare

On 23/01/2020 16:11, wrote:
On 23/01/2020 15:51, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Streater wrote:

Our Neff came set up limited to 13A. But there is a magic sequence of
button presses to crank the limit up to 20A with a hard-wired circuit.
It has a "b" setting for any ring that will shove all 20A through that
ring. Your pan will boil toot sweet.

I've always been a gas-hob user, and rarely use more than one ring at
a time, but that may have to change to electric ... upcoming decision
on whether to go with bulk LPG tank for boiler which would also allow
gas hob, or go full electric with heatpump and induction hob, I
suppose bottled gas for hob-only would be do-able.
I always preferred gas hobs until I had to switch to induction; I would
not go back to gas.

I grew up with gas cookers, but for the last 35 years have used electric
hobs latterly induction ones. I now find gas hobs alarming as well as
being awkward to keep clean.

--
Michael Chare

On Thursday, 23 January 2020 15:51:59 UTC, Andy Burns wrote:
Tim Streater wrote:

Our Neff came set up limited to 13A. But there is a magic sequence of
button presses to crank the limit up to 20A with a hard-wired circuit.
It has a "b" setting for any ring that will shove all 20A through that
ring. Your pan will boil toot sweet.

I've always been a gas-hob user, and rarely use more than one ring at a
time, but that may have to change to electric ... upcoming decision on
whether to go with bulk LPG tank for boiler which would also allow gas
hob, or go full electric with heatpump and induction hob, I suppose
bottled gas for hob-only would be do-able.

Unless you have a good well sited cooker hood, the fumes from the gas hob are slowly killing you.(Nox)

On 23/01/2020 16:24, Michael Chare wrote:
On 23/01/2020 11:28, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?


https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg


You may just be able to prise the existing hob out by sliding a blade
under the edges.Â* I don;t think the Neff hob I removed was held in.Â* The
Bosh induction hob I bought as a replacement has a configuration option
to set the maximum current itm could draw. I was very pleased that it
just fitted in the same size hold in the worktop.



No-one seems to have mentioned the fact that the size of cut-out
required varies from hob to hob.

If the existing cut-out is too small you can enlarge it. But if it's too
big - or in the wrong place relative to where the hob needs to go - you
may have a problem.
--
Cheers,
Roger

Andy Burns Wrote in message:
Andrew May wrote:

Induction can take a whole lot more current
than a standard hob.

They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired,
I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has
anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ...
underpowered?


AFAIK they throttle the total power back when you are using
multiple "burners". It's a rare occurrence here to use more than
two simultaneously, not that my hob has that limitation.

--
__
%Profound_observation%


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Andrew May wrote:

Induction can take a whole lot more current than a standard hob.

They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired,
I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has
anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ...
underpowered?

Really depends on how you use it. Few choose
to have all the elements on full anymore. Its much
more about using the appropriate element now.

On 23/01/2020 15:07, Andy Burns wrote:
Thomas Prufer wrote:

https://youtu.be/Qif9psHqymYÂ* suggests that some Eletrolux hobs
are just dropped in place.
Do any UK hobs daisy-chain off the oven like that?


I have seen it done. And some of the posh hobs automatically turn on the
extractor hoods when you turn them on.

--
Adam

On 23/01/2020 13:00, Brian Reay wrote:
On 23/01/2020 11:28, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?


https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg


Besides the 'mechanical' side, check the electrical side. Our induction
hob required a dedicated spur (30A from memory) which the company who
did the kitchen took care of. (We also needed another one for a 2nd
oven, the existing spur being used for the 1st oven.)

Induction hobs are great by the way. When we were planning the kitchen
change, I wanted a gas hob but Senior Management wanted Induction. I'm
pleased I relented ;-)



Who does the cooking?

--
Adam

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 11:28:32 +0000, Mike Halmarack
wrote:


Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?


https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg

RTFM and make sure you can meet the clearance and ventilation
requirements of your hob. Mine is a cheap "Viesta" brand and is
installed above a cutlery drawer. It requires a 3mm gap between the
bottom of the counter and the top of the drawer front, that was easy
because the fronts have screwdriver adjusters for height, however the
chipboard carcase partially baffles the airflow and the kitchen fitter
did not feel it was important enough to cut away. I will have to take
my multitool to it myself because as I predicted the hob occasionally
goes into its induction coil overheat shutdown error mode which clears
if I open the door slightly.

Here's a couple of photos that may illustrate what I mean.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4B9HrUWGuCgjCUhT6

It appears that some induction hobs don't use this front exhaust
scheme, and their intake and exhaust requirements are met from below.

In article ,
ARW wrote:
On 23/01/2020 15:07, Andy Burns wrote:
Thomas Prufer wrote:

https://youtu.be/Qif9psHqymY suggests that some Eletrolux hobs
are just dropped in place.
Do any UK hobs daisy-chain off the oven like that?


I have seen it done. And some of the posh hobs automatically turn on the
extractor hoods when you turn them on.

Some 7 or 8 years ago, I was informed, by someone I trusted, that in
commercial premises you had to have the extractor fan running before you
could get a supply to a gas cooker. Easily dome with a solenoid in the gas
supply.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On Fri, 24 Jan 2020 05:47:55 +1100, "Ray" wrote:



"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Andrew May wrote:

Induction can take a whole lot more current than a standard hob.

They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired,
I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has
anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ...
underpowered?

Really depends on how you use it. Few choose
to have all the elements on full anymore. Its much
more about using the appropriate element now.

On mine the controls go from 1 to 9. Between 5&9 the continuous power
is changed, between 1&4 the duty-cycle is changed.

If, for example, you have two burners on "2" which is about 50% duty
cycle, I would have expected them to alternate to help with diversity,
but no, they come on and off together.

"Graham." wrote in message
...
On Fri, 24 Jan 2020 05:47:55 +1100, "Ray" wrote:



"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Andrew May wrote:

Induction can take a whole lot more current than a standard hob.

They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired,
I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has
anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ...
underpowered?

Really depends on how you use it. Few choose
to have all the elements on full anymore. Its much
more about using the appropriate element now.

On mine the controls go from 1 to 9. Between 5&9 the continuous power
is changed, between 1&4 the duty-cycle is changed.

If, for example, you have two burners on "2" which is about 50% duty
cycle, I would have expected them to alternate to help with diversity,
but no, they come on and off together.

That's just bad design, what brand ?

On Fri, 24 Jan 2020 07:52:01 +1100, Ray, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:


That's just bad design, what brand ?

Oh, no! The resident senile trolling asshole from Oz is trying to start
another "discussion"! LOL

--
Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 85-year-old trolling senile
cretin from Oz:
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/

On 23/01/2020 15:16, Andy Burns wrote:
Andrew May wrote:

Induction can take a whole lot more current than a standard hob.

They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired,
I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has
anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ...
underpowered?

I haven't tried one, but when I was looking at induction hobs recently,
some were smart enough that they used reduced power if all the "rings"
were energised at the same time, but operated at full power if only a
couple were.

SteveW

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 20:01:59 +0000, Graham.
wrote:

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 11:28:32 +0000, Mike Halmarack
wrote:


Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an
induction hob.
Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal
damage to surroundings?


https://i.postimg.cc/9Mc0Zdqf/cooker.jpg

RTFM and make sure you can meet the clearance and ventilation
requirements of your hob. Mine is a cheap "Viesta" brand and is
installed above a cutlery drawer. It requires a 3mm gap between the
bottom of the counter and the top of the drawer front, that was easy
because the fronts have screwdriver adjusters for height, however the
chipboard carcase partially baffles the airflow and the kitchen fitter
did not feel it was important enough to cut away. I will have to take
my multitool to it myself because as I predicted the hob occasionally
goes into its induction coil overheat shutdown error mode which clears
if I open the door slightly.

Here's a couple of photos that may illustrate what I mean.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4B9HrUWGuCgjCUhT6

It appears that some induction hobs don't use this front exhaust
scheme, and their intake and exhaust requirements are met from below.

Thanks for yet more detailed and important considerations.
If I hadn't started this thread I would still be thinking that
choosing and fitting an induction hob was a fairly simple matter.
--

Mike

On 23/01/2020 20:09, charles wrote:
In article ,
ARW wrote:
On 23/01/2020 15:07, Andy Burns wrote:
Thomas Prufer wrote:

https://youtu.be/Qif9psHqymY suggests that some Eletrolux hobs
are just dropped in place.
Do any UK hobs daisy-chain off the oven like that?


I have seen it done. And some of the posh hobs automatically turn on the
extractor hoods when you turn them on.

Some 7 or 8 years ago, I was informed, by someone I trusted, that in
commercial premises you had to have the extractor fan running before you
could get a supply to a gas cooker. Easily dome with a solenoid in the gas
supply.



The person you trust is correct.

There is however more to it than just a switch to turn on the fan and
operate the solenoid in most cases.

There are usually two fans in such properties an intake and an out-take
and they are often variable speed fans.

Normally a fan control unit monitors the fans and shuts the gas off if
either fail. The unit uses a couple of potentiometers that you have to
set to to determine the detection range when the fans are on the slowest
setting.

The ones I have worked on also have an emergency "run for 30 minutes
even if a fan has failed" button to press if you take the front cover
off. That is supposed to let you finish what you are cooking before I
arrive and bypass the con

--
Adam

On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 15:16:20 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired,
I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has
anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ...
underpowered?

I have the very cheapest 2kW single induction plate thing, countertop plasticcy
thing. It was just over 20‚¬. The fan is noisy, the temperature setting has 20°C
increments which is "too coarse" in the lowest range. And the 60°C and 80°C
settings will boil water if the pan is small; fine if large enough but still
considerable deviation. The hot spot is smaller than on a large electric plate.
The temperature, time and wattage can be set independently, if clumsily. It is
easy to clean and light (to the point of flimsyness). As there is no hot air as
in burning gas, spatter does not get spread around as much.

For all the pros and cons: underpowered? naah, not compared to the gas hob.

All in all, a great buy, well worth its money. Next time around, I'd get the
second-cheapest, not the cheapest...


Thomas Prufer

On Fri, 24 Jan 2020 07:52:01 +1100, "Ray" wrote:



"Graham." wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 24 Jan 2020 05:47:55 +1100, "Ray" wrote:



"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Andrew May wrote:

Induction can take a whole lot more current than a standard hob.

They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired,
I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has
anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ...
underpowered?

Really depends on how you use it. Few choose
to have all the elements on full anymore. Its much
more about using the appropriate element now.

On mine the controls go from 1 to 9. Between 5&9 the continuous power
is changed, between 1&4 the duty-cycle is changed.

If, for example, you have two burners on "2" which is about 50% duty
cycle, I would have expected them to alternate to help with diversity,
but no, they come on and off together.

That's just bad design, what brand ?


https://efulfillment-online.com/en/p...b-ceramic-hob/