In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
On 10/10/2019 19:03, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Been fixing up some sash windows which are basically about 130 years old.
Had a broken glass after what look like a bird it it - or bullet. ;-) And
a sash cord.

So decided to replace all the sash cords at the same time, and with new
parting and stop beads. So got the type that takes a nylon brush for best
draught proofing. And wondered if anyone knows how long the brush is
likely to last? It will hopefully stop any rattles too, in a wind.


I've got a lot of sash windows in my holiday flat, which is in a Grade
II listed building - so little scope for double glazing.

I've replaced all my beads with the nylon brush type. They have improved
noise and drafts to some extent, but not as much as I hoped.

I've also replaced the cord to sash attachments with these
https://www.mightonproducts.com/cordclam-cord-retainer which make it a
doddle to remove and replace the sashes in future - e.g. for painting.
Oh, and the staff beads are screwed rather than nailed on like the old
ones - also facilitating easy removal.

I've also used screws for the staff beads. Couldn't think of a similar way
to fix the parting beads, though.

--
*DON'T SWEAT THE PETTY THINGS AND DON'T PET THE SWEATY THINGS.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Friday, 18 October 2019 16:50:43 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
On 10/10/2019 19:03, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Been fixing up some sash windows which are basically about 130 years old.
Had a broken glass after what look like a bird it it - or bullet. ;-) And
a sash cord.

So decided to replace all the sash cords at the same time, and with new
parting and stop beads. So got the type that takes a nylon brush for best
draught proofing. And wondered if anyone knows how long the brush is
likely to last? It will hopefully stop any rattles too, in a wind.


I've got a lot of sash windows in my holiday flat, which is in a Grade
II listed building - so little scope for double glazing.

I've replaced all my beads with the nylon brush type. They have improved
noise and drafts to some extent, but not as much as I hoped.

I've also replaced the cord to sash attachments with these
https://www.mightonproducts.com/cordclam-cord-retainer which make it a
doddle to remove and replace the sashes in future - e.g. for painting.
Oh, and the staff beads are screwed rather than nailed on like the old
ones - also facilitating easy removal.

I've also used screws for the staff beads. Couldn't think of a similar way
to fix the parting beads, though.

I've found pins make it easier & quicker to remove the beads than screws.


NT

In article ,
wrote:
I've also used screws for the staff beads. Couldn't think of a similar
way to fix the parting beads, though.

I've found pins make it easier & quicker to remove the beads than screws.

The snag with nails is one of the four sections has to be removed first.
Once this is done, the other three are easy.

But if they are nailed, much more chance of damage to the paint than with
screws.

--
*WHY IS THERE AN EXPIRATION DATE ON SOUR CREAM?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Saturday, 19 October 2019 14:54:03 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

I've also used screws for the staff beads. Couldn't think of a similar
way to fix the parting beads, though.

I've found pins make it easier & quicker to remove the beads than screws.

The snag with nails is one of the four sections has to be removed first.
Once this is done, the other three are easy.

But if they are nailed, much more chance of damage to the paint than with
screws.

I've no idea what that means. I did try screws on sliding sashes but found it produced far more disruption of paint & difficulty in removal.


NT

On 18/10/2019 16:46, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
Roger wrote:
On 10/10/2019 19:03, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Been fixing up some sash windows which are basically about 130 years old.
Had a broken glass after what look like a bird it it - or bullet. ;-) And
a sash cord.

So decided to replace all the sash cords at the same time, and with new
parting and stop beads. So got the type that takes a nylon brush for best
draught proofing. And wondered if anyone knows how long the brush is
likely to last? It will hopefully stop any rattles too, in a wind.


I've got a lot of sash windows in my holiday flat, which is in a Grade
II listed building - so little scope for double glazing.

I've replaced all my beads with the nylon brush type. They have improved
noise and drafts to some extent, but not as much as I hoped.

I've also replaced the cord to sash attachments with these
https://www.mightonproducts.com/cordclam-cord-retainer which make it a
doddle to remove and replace the sashes in future - e.g. for painting.
Oh, and the staff beads are screwed rather than nailed on like the old
ones - also facilitating easy removal.

I've also used screws for the staff beads. Couldn't think of a similar way
to fix the parting beads, though.


My parting beads don't use any fixings. They are an interference fit in
their grooves, and have to be tapped in with a block of wood and a hammer.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
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checked.

In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
I've also used screws for the staff beads. Couldn't think of a similar
way to fix the parting beads, though.


My parting beads don't use any fixings. They are an interference fit in
their grooves, and have to be tapped in with a block of wood and a
hammer.

That may have been the case here 150 years ago. ;-) The old ones had long
panel pins, though.

--
*Don't worry about avoiding temptation. As you grow older, it will avoid you.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 20/10/2019 14:36, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
Roger wrote:
I've also used screws for the staff beads. Couldn't think of a similar
way to fix the parting beads, though.


My parting beads don't use any fixings. They are an interference fit in
their grooves, and have to be tapped in with a block of wood and a
hammer.

That may have been the case here 150 years ago. ;-) The old ones had long
panel pins, though.


Belt and braces! If you replace them with the furry type, you'll
probably find that they're a tight enough fit without needing any pins.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
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checked.

In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
That may have been the case here 150 years ago. ;-) The old ones had long
panel pins, though.


Belt and braces! If you replace them with the furry type, you'll
probably find that they're a tight enough fit without needing any pins.

No - they are the same thickness as the ones they're replacing. Which
weren't that old anyway. I drilled pilot holes through the new with a
pillar drill to make using long panel pins easier.

--
*If work is so terrific, how come they have to pay you to do it?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 21/10/2019 14:19, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
Roger wrote:
That may have been the case here 150 years ago. ;-) The old ones had long
panel pins, though.


Belt and braces! If you replace them with the furry type, you'll
probably find that they're a tight enough fit without needing any pins.

No - they are the same thickness as the ones they're replacing. Which
weren't that old anyway. I drilled pilot holes through the new with a
pillar drill to make using long panel pins easier.


Fairy Nuff. Mine were pretty tight - and I had to clear the residue from
the old ones out of the grooves before I could get the new ones in.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.