In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So connect
the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to the tap
and then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the tap was
ok ...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water flexi hose,
as the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all
over the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So connect
the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to the tap
and then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the tap was
ok ...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water flexi hose,
as the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all
over the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

Do they all do that I wonder? I thought there were rules about not
contaminating the mains cold water with the hot.

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

"Graham." wrote in message
news
In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So connect
the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to the tap
and then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the tap was
ok ...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water flexi hose,
as the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all
over the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

Do they all do that I wonder? I thought there were rules about not
contaminating the mains cold water with the hot.

Going back to having water ****ing out all over the place...

I once had to change the immersion heater element in the *side* of my hot
water cylinder. This meant draining the header tank, disconnecting the inlet
and outlet pipes, walking the still full cylinder round to get at the drain
cock which was on the *back*, and emptying the cylinder through a hosepipe.

When I took the immersion heater box spanner back to the hire shop, the guy
told me about a customer who had forgotten a) to let the tank cool down, and
b) to empty it of all the water (turning off the inlet or emptying the
header tank isn't enough). And so he unscrewed the element and when it was
held by the last thread, the pressure was too great for the thread to hold
it, so he was punched in the goolies by an immersion heater element which
shot out, propelled by a 4" "plug" of scalding hot water - and once the
element was out, there was no way to put it back in again, so he had to wait
for a hundred or so litres of hot water to run through the house. That would
have been one hell of an insurance claim...

On 19/08/2019 22:52, Graham. wrote:
Do they all do that I wonder? I thought there were rules about not
contaminating the mains cold water with the hot.

I havent a clue but maybe because the tap lever was in a mid position it
meant both tap outlets were open, if I had had the tap lever swivelled
for hot only possibly it would not have happened.

Kind of reminds me about an incident shortly after we came here with the old
bathroom suite. The bathroom is directly above the kitchen, and at that time
the Kitchen had one of those ceiling mounted globe lights with a 100w bulb
in it. So Father has a bath, Mother in kitchen doing some snacks. As the
bath drains the globe light starts to fill with water, but the light is
still on.

Mother notices and dad puts the plug back in the bath.

The up bend had partially come away from its pipe and water was spreading
out inside the ceiling void and trickling down the light fitting. Bloody
amazing nobody got electrocuted really, considering the crude fuse wire
consumer unit in place at the time. It took days with floorboards up in the
bathroom and fan heaters on to dry it all out. Luckily it was not able to
soak into the plaster and make it collapse as we caught it in time. It was
interesting for a few days skipping over the holes in the bathroom floor to
go to the loo though. Quite how the globe did not detach from the ceiling
with it three quarters full of water is anyone's guess, this after all was
the age of bakelite.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"ss" wrote in message
...
In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So connect
the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to the tap and
then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the tap was ok
...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water flexi hose, as
the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all over
the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

Luckily our tank is designed a bit more sensibly than the one in your
example and it can be all drained down and isolated enough to get the
element out without a completely empty cylinder. I am eternally amazed
though when you get the heater out how bent and encrusted it gets just
heating water. Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"NY" wrote in message
...
"Graham." wrote in message
news
In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So connect
the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to the tap
and then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the tap was
ok ...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water flexi hose,
as the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all
over the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

Do they all do that I wonder? I thought there were rules about not
contaminating the mains cold water with the hot.

Going back to having water ****ing out all over the place...

I once had to change the immersion heater element in the *side* of my hot
water cylinder. This meant draining the header tank, disconnecting the
inlet and outlet pipes, walking the still full cylinder round to get at
the drain cock which was on the *back*, and emptying the cylinder through
a hosepipe.

When I took the immersion heater box spanner back to the hire shop, the
guy told me about a customer who had forgotten a) to let the tank cool
down, and b) to empty it of all the water (turning off the inlet or
emptying the header tank isn't enough). And so he unscrewed the element
and when it was held by the last thread, the pressure was too great for
the thread to hold it, so he was punched in the goolies by an immersion
heater element which shot out, propelled by a 4" "plug" of scalding hot
water - and once the element was out, there was no way to put it back in
again, so he had to wait for a hundred or so litres of hot water to run
through the house. That would have been one hell of an insurance claim...

"Brian Gaff" wrote in message
...
Kind of reminds me about an incident shortly after we came here with the
old bathroom suite. The bathroom is directly above the kitchen, and at
that time the Kitchen had one of those ceiling mounted globe lights with a
100w bulb in it. So Father has a bath, Mother in kitchen doing some
snacks. As the bath drains the globe light starts to fill with water, but
the light is still on.

Mother notices and dad puts the plug back in the bath.

The up bend had partially come away from its pipe and water was spreading
out inside the ceiling void and trickling down the light fitting.

Bloody amazing nobody got electrocuted really, considering the crude fuse
wire consumer unit in place at the time.

The water isnt conductive enough to electrocute anyone
even if you walk around with bare feet thru the water.

It took days with floorboards up in the bathroom and fan heaters on to dry
it all out. Luckily it was not able to soak into the plaster and make it
collapse as we caught it in time. It was interesting for a few days
skipping over the holes in the bathroom floor to go to the loo though.
Quite how the globe did not detach from the ceiling with it three quarters
full of water is anyone's guess, this after all was the age of bakelite.

"ss" wrote in message
...
In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So connect
the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to the tap and
then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the tap was ok
...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water flexi hose, as
the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all over
the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

On Monday, 19 August 2019 23:11:57 UTC+1, NY wrote:
When I took the immersion heater box spanner back to the hire shop, the guy
told me about a customer who had forgotten a) to let the tank cool down, and
b) to empty it of all the water

I had a slightly similar experience; we (plumber and I) drained the tank down till the water stopped flowing out the drain valve, then loosened the pipes to walk the tank round till the bottom connection was at the front to tilt it to get the bottom water out.

I wondered aloud why the hole was so furred up in a soft water area and the plumber poked his screwdriver into it. At this point we realised that the tank was not empty and all that was holding the water in was probably a stray bit of foam insulation (which stopped holding the water in).

Fortunately there were two of us, and buckets handy. If I'd been on my own I'd have been stuck with my thumb in the hole until the postman called ... some days later ... don't get many letters these days.

Even the plumber was a little bit startled by the experience.

Owain

"Brian Gaff" wrote in message
...
Luckily our tank is designed a bit more sensibly than the one in your
example and it can be all drained down and isolated enough to get the
element out without a completely empty cylinder. I am eternally amazed
though when you get the heater out how bent and encrusted it gets just
heating water. Brian

My hot water cylinder had the header tank joined onto the top of it (*), so
there was no explicit inlet feed pipe to disconnect. The outlet needed to be
unscrewed (after I'd emptied the header tank and hot water system as much as
possible by opening the hot taps) and then the tank was "free" to be rotated
on the baulks of wood that it was standing on. That makes it sound very
easy: in practice it was a case of tipping it onto one baulk, rotating it a
bit, rocking it onto the other and rotating it etc, which took a while to
get it far enough round to reach the drain cock. Which silly herbert
designed the tank with the drain cock on the *back*?

Cylinders with the element going in vertically through the top don't need to
be drained, but I could see that mine would need to, because it had two
elements (daytime and Economy 7 tariffs) going in through the side: the
daytime one heated the top 1/3 of the cylinder and the night time one heated
the whole cylinder.

When I got the element out, only half of it was the the ends of some of
the loops were still inside, having exploded off when the thing shorted out
at 1AM when the Economy 7 timer turned on - made a hell of a bang and left
black scorch marks on the fuse box.

I removed the cylinder completely (carrying it downstairs on my own was
amusing!) and hosed it out on the drive, and there was a *lot* of limescale
in the bottom - plus the remains of the element. I'd estimate several
kilogrammes of limescale, which probably filled up to the level of the lower
heating element. And that was with only about 5 years' use, because the
house was only 5 years old from new. While I had the tank out, I removed the
other, daytime element and checked that, but the metal was still shiny
because I imagine it had not been used nearly as much except for
occasionally topping up the hot water if all the water heated overnight had
been used up.


(*) Saves the builder the hassle of putting a header tank, a cold water feed
and a pipe from tank to cylinder in the loft. It was a bit noisier because
you could hear it gurgling in the airing cupboard as it refilled after
running hot water, but it worked well enough.

On Tue, 20 Aug 2019 17:17:48 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


The up bend had partially come away from its pipe and water was spreading
out inside the ceiling void and trickling down the light fitting.

Bloody amazing nobody got electrocuted really, considering the crude fuse
wire consumer unit in place at the time.

The water isnt conductive enough to electrocute anyone
even if you walk around with bare feet thru the water.

Is this pathological auto-contradicting senile asshole for real? LMAO

--
Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 85-year-old trolling senile
cretin from Oz:
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/

On 19/08/2019 23:25, ss wrote:
On 19/08/2019 22:52, Graham. wrote:
Do they all do that I wonder? I thought there were rules about not
contaminating the mains cold water with the hot.

I havent a clue but maybe because the tap lever was in a mid position it
meant both tap outlets were open, if I had had the tap lever swivelled
for hot only possibly it would not have happened.

Yup, if its a proper mixer tap, as many bathroom ones are[1] then that
will happen.

[1] Kitchen style ones usually have a pair of concentric spouts that
cause the water to be delivered separately and mix outside of the tap.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 19/08/2019 20:42, ss wrote:
In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So connect
the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to the tap
and then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the tap was
ok ...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water flexi hose,
as the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all
over the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

Very similar to when I was bringing up this house and had a shower mixer
partially attached with the hose bit blanked off..

You got cold water out of hot taps everywehere, as the cold water was at
a slightly higher pressure

...of course the shower was 'on', slightly


--
"Anyone who believes that the laws of physics are mere social
conventions is invited to try transgressing those conventions from the
windows of my apartment. (I live on the twenty-first floor.) "

Alan Sokal

ss wrote:
In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So connect
the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to the tap
and then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the tap was
ok ...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water flexi hose,
as the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all
over the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

Has anyone else removed the trap from a sink, and then washed their
hands in it? No? Only me then...

On 20/08/2019 10:24, John Rumm wrote:
I havent a clue but maybe because the tap lever was in a mid position
it meant both tap outlets were open, if I had had the tap lever
swivelled for hot only possibly it would not have happened.

Yup, if its a proper mixer tap, as many bathroom ones are[1] then that
will happen.

[1] Kitchen style ones usually have a pair of concentric spouts that
cause the water to be delivered separately and mix outside of the tap.

Yes makes sense when you think about it and guess who never thought it
through :-(

This is the finished bathroom, probably the last major project I will
undertake and just stick to painting and leisurely woodwork.

Just have to contend with my wife now who says the toilet seat is the
wrong size, the fan is too noisy and the lighting is too dull.:-(

https://imgur.com/MElXIz4

https://imgur.com/M0b7LrL

Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

ss wrote:
In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So connect
the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to the tap
and then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the tap was
ok ...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water flexi hose,
as the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all
over the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

Has anyone else removed the trap from a sink, and then washed their
hands in it? No? Only me then...

I've an idea I may have once rinsed the strap wrench I used on the
rather scummy trap.

--

Roger Hayter

"ss" wrote in message
news
This is the finished bathroom, probably the last major project I will
undertake and just stick to painting and leisurely woodwork.

Just have to contend with my wife now who says the toilet seat is the
wrong size, the fan is too noisy and the lighting is too dull.:-(

Time to trade her in on a new bimbo if you can still get it up.

https://imgur.com/MElXIz4

https://imgur.com/M0b7LrL

On 20/08/2019 11:19, ss wrote:

This is the finished bathroom, probably the last major project I will
undertake and just stick to painting and leisurely woodwork.

Just have to contend with my wife now who says the toilet seat is the
wrong size, the fan is too noisy and the lighting is too dull.:-(

I ended up swapping one of the seats on ours, since although it matched
and looked ok, it was not very comfortable. The choice of options on
yours might be a bit smaller though due to the shape of the pan.

What kind of lighting did you go for?

https://imgur.com/MElXIz4

https://imgur.com/M0b7LrL

Very good looking result, I would be pleased with that.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 20/08/2019 10:46, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
ss wrote:
In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So
connect the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to
the tap and then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test
the tap was ok ...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold
water flexi hose, as the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise
it was going all over the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

Has anyone else removed the trap from a sink, and then washed their
hands in it?Â* No?Â* Only me then...

I think the classic version is to empty the trap into a bucket and then
pass the bucket to an assistant to empty while you are still under the
trap :-)




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tue, 20 Aug 2019 20:47:24 +1000, jeikppkywk, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:


Just have to contend with my wife now who says the toilet seat is the
wrong size, the fan is too noisy and the lighting is too dull.:-(

Time to trade her in on a new bimbo if you can still get it up.

Are you afraid he might end up as a forsaken obnoxious senile trolling
idiot, with a website dedicated to his trolling, you 85-year-old, useless,
senile pest? VERY unlikely!

--
Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 85-year-old trolling senile
cretin from Oz:
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/

ss wrote:

This is the finished bathroom, probably the last major project I will
undertake and just stick to painting and leisurely woodwork.

Just have to contend with my wife now who says the toilet seat is the
wrong size, the fan is too noisy and the lighting is too dull.:-(

https://imgur.com/MElXIz4

https://imgur.com/M0b7LrL

On the subject of noisy fans, if you're thinking of using one the fans
with a counter current heat exchanger[1] with outside air (the Ventaxia
model at least) go for the six inch one, rather than the four inch one.
It is significantly quieter.



[1] chosen for reducing drafts rather than to save the planet


--

Roger Hayter

Roger Hayter wrote:

if you're thinking of using one the fans
with a counter current heat exchanger

sort of single-room MVHR?

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
I think the classic version is to empty the trap into a bucket and then
pass the bucket to an assistant to empty while you are still under the
trap :-)

I think I can see where the assistant emptied the bucket... ;-) Easily done
in the heat of the moment.

I flooded the cupboard under the kitchen sink and the stone-tile floor the
other day when I left the tap running with the plug in the sink. The water
level reached the overflow and then I heard water gushing out. The
corrugated overflow pipe had become detached from the overflow port in the
side of the sink... That took a bit of mopping up and then crafty washing of
towels before SWMBO got back from work...

On Tue, 20 Aug 2019 10:46:03 +0100, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

ss wrote:
In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So
connect the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to
the tap and then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the
tap was ok ...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water
flexi hose,
as the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all
over the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

Has anyone else removed the trap from a sink, and then washed their
hands in it? No? Only me then...

Rite of passage, that one.



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:
On Tue, 20 Aug 2019 10:46:03 +0100, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

ss wrote:
In the final stages of completing the bathroom refurbishment. So
connect the tap and the waste drain, connected the two flexi hoses to
the tap and then just the hot to the incoming pipe, thought to test the
tap was ok ...turns it on and water starts ****in out the cold water
flexi hose,
as the water was sputing out the tap I didnt realise it was going all
over the floor from the cold unattached flexi hose.

Ah well we live and learn.

Has anyone else removed the trap from a sink, and then washed their
hands in it? No? Only me then...

Rite of passage, that one.

and it figures in Alan Aykebourn's "Absurd Person Singular"

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

Andy Burns wrote:

Roger Hayter wrote:

if you're thinking of using one the fans
with a counter current heat exchanger

sort of single-room MVHR?

I suppose, although the ROI is probably rather low! But I got it to
reduce draughts in a wet room with no shower screen.

--

Roger Hayter

On 20/08/2019 14:07, Roger Hayter wrote:
On the subject of noisy fans, if you're thinking of using one the fans
with a counter current heat exchanger[1] with outside air (the Ventaxia
model at least) go for the six inch one, rather than the four inch one.
It is significantly quieter.

I took out the 4 " and replaced with a 6" and the idea was to replace
the 4" piping with 6" only to find out that where it went in to the
loft I had about 2 feet headroom and would have been eating insulation,
as for where it exits I dont know. So I got a 4" to 6" pipe adaptor and
used that.
Even in my younger days I would have struggled with the access.

On 20/08/2019 15:58, ss wrote:
On 20/08/2019 14:07, Roger Hayter wrote:
On the subject of noisy fans, if you're thinking of using one the fans
with a counter current heat exchanger[1] with outside air (the Ventaxia
model at least) go for the six inch one, rather than the four inch one.
It is significantly quieter.

I took out the 4 " and replaced with a 6"Â* and the idea was to replace
the 4" piping with 6"Â* only to find out that where it went in to the
loft I had about 2 feet headroom and would have been eating insulation,
as for where it exits I dont know. So I got a 4" to 6" pipe adaptor and
used that.
Even in my younger days I would have struggled with the access.

One way to reduce the noise quite a bit is with a ducted fan rather than
a surface mount one. That way the motor noise etc is out of the room.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 19/08/2019 23:11, NY wrote:


When I took the immersion heater box spanner back to the hire shop

Was this a special one? They are only £10 to buy new.

--
Adam

"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 19/08/2019 23:11, NY wrote:


When I took the immersion heater box spanner back to the hire shop

Was this a special one? They are only £10 to buy new.

I made enquiries in my local hardware shops (the equivalent of B&Q - maybe
Smith's DoItAll in those days) and they all said that they didn't stock them
and recommended a hire shop. That was in the late 80s or early 90s.

It was a box spanner rather than a flat one, because the amount of spray-on
insulation on the cylinder prevented me using a flat one with a slightly
cranked end, which is the more common type. I remember it was bloody heavy
to carry: there was a lot of steel there!