I have a reasonable Remmington Shaver that works, beard cutting wise unlike
their latest one does. Its a rotary. However it has now ceased to work on
batteries unless you plug in the charger get it going then unplug the
charger while its going and then it will only last a few mins. My diagnosis
is that a cell or cells have gone faulty so that when you power on there is
not enough ooomph to start the motor and a protection circuit stops it. You
can hear the tick as it tries.
So the thing is can one get these things apart so one can reassemble them
and can one change the batteries as it seems daft to have to junk the whole
thing when its merely a rechargeable batter issue. there is of course no
obvious screws on the thing. I did wonder if the makers fix them but I
suspect they will just try to sell me a new one which I have got one of and
its rubbish.
Brian

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On 28/07/2018 18:11, Brian Gaff wrote:
I have a reasonable Remmington Shaver that works, beard cutting wise unlike
their latest one does. Its a rotary. However it has now ceased to work on
batteries unless you plug in the charger get it going then unplug the
charger while its going and then it will only last a few mins. My diagnosis
is that a cell or cells have gone faulty so that when you power on there is
not enough ooomph to start the motor and a protection circuit stops it. You
can hear the tick as it tries.
So the thing is can one get these things apart so one can reassemble them
and can one change the batteries as it seems daft to have to junk the whole
thing when its merely a rechargeable batter issue. there is of course no
obvious screws on the thing. I did wonder if the makers fix them but I
suspect they will just try to sell me a new one which I have got one of and
its rubbish.

Not done it on a remington, but I have changed the batts on a Braun. In
that case there were a couple of screws under rubber plugs in the base
of the case, which once removed allowed the shell to slide off. A pair
of radial leaded NiCds in that model which could then be de-soldered
from the PCB and replaced.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote :
Not done it on a remington, but I have changed the batts on a Braun. In that
case there were a couple of screws under rubber plugs in the base of the
case, which once removed allowed the shell to slide off. A pair of radial
leaded NiCds in that model which could then be de-soldered from the PCB and
replaced.

Similar on a Phillips.

Hmm, well this seems at least by feel to have no screws. Its got one of
those semi detached head things ands there is a hole in the back, but there
seems to be no screw in it. On the charger hole end you can feel the join. I
guess it needs a pair of eyes to look at it.
There is apparently an lcd display on it that shows battery with a
different amount shaded according to the amount left in the charge, but
somebody looked and said it was always blank which is not a good sign!
In the old days these things used to just have a string of cells in series
and a little plug on the internal pcb that fitted in two slots.

The bit I need to protect is the trimmer, as its the best one I've ever had.
it can cut hair, not just the sides.
The weak link as always is the batteries in these things. You would think
by now some bright designer might have looked at the power tool market and
used a battery pack system for all models. My guess though is that they
consider 70 quid to be a disposable item even though its only five years
old.
I'm beginning to warm to these people who are trying to get the right to
repair established. Its relatively recent that security screws, and welded
shut devices have become the norm.


Brian

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Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
news
John Rumm wrote :
Not done it on a remington, but I have changed the batts on a Braun. In
that case there were a couple of screws under rubber plugs in the base of
the case, which once removed allowed the shell to slide off. A pair of
radial leaded NiCds in that model which could then be de-soldered from
the PCB and replaced.

Similar on a Phillips.

Brian Gaff pretended :
I'm beginning to warm to these people who are trying to get the right to
repair established. Its relatively recent that security screws, and welded
shut devices have become the norm.

I warmed to that, years ago. lol

In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
The bit I need to protect is the trimmer, as its the best one I've ever had.
it can cut hair, not just the sides.

I'd be surprised if it's anything like as good as a proper trimmer.

--
*Go the extra mile. It makes your boss look like an incompetent slacker *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 28/07/2018 20:31, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
John Rumm wrote :
Not done it on a remington, but I have changed the batts on a Braun. In that case there were a couple of screws under rubber plugs in the base of the case, which once removed allowed the shell to slide off. A pair of radial leaded NiCds in that model which could then be de-soldered from the PCB and replaced.

Similar on a Phillips.

I've done it on a Philips, which is held together by regular screws and hex sockets. But my modification was to unsolder the tagged battery from the PCB and then use a couple of bits of scrap brass to provide contact plates so it would take a standard AA rechargeable cell just pushed in place. I found that tagged cells were *much* more expensive than regular ones, and I find that I have to change the battery every few years.

I've learned over the years to avoid buying an appliance that won't allow me to change the battery fairly easily. The mobile phone is a case in point, some have easy battery change, others require return to manufacturer.

--
Clive Page

Brian Gaff wrote

Hmm, well this seems at least by feel to have no screws. Its got one of
those semi detached head things ands there is a hole in the back, but
there seems to be no screw in it. On the charger hole end you can feel the
join. I guess it needs a pair of eyes to look at it.

There is apparently an lcd display on it that shows battery with a
different amount shaded according to the amount left in the charge, but
somebody looked and said it was always blank which is not a good sign! In
the old days these things used to just have a string of cells in series
and a little plug on the internal pcb that fitted in two slots.

The bit I need to protect is the trimmer, as its the best one I've ever
had. it can cut hair, not just the sides.

I don’t bother to shave anymore, mow the face down to stubble
every once in a while and do the hair with the same mower.

The weak link as always is the batteries in these things. You would think
by now some bright designer might have looked at the power tool market and
used a battery pack system for all models.

Not really viable with a shaver.

My guess though is that they consider 70 quid to be a disposable item even
though its only five years old.

Or not practical to have a battery pack like power tools do.

I'm beginning to warm to these people who are trying to get the right to
repair established.

Can't see that happening.

Its relatively recent that security screws, and welded shut devices have
become the norm.

Sure, but easy to get around the security screws.

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
news
John Rumm wrote :
Not done it on a remington, but I have changed the batts on a Braun. In
that case there were a couple of screws under rubber plugs in the base
of the case, which once removed allowed the shell to slide off. A pair
of radial leaded NiCds in that model which could then be de-soldered
from the PCB and replaced.

Similar on a Phillips.

Clive Page explained :
I've done it on a Philips, which is held together by regular screws and hex
sockets. But my modification was to unsolder the tagged battery from the PCB
and then use a couple of bits of scrap brass to provide contact plates so it
would take a standard AA rechargeable cell just pushed in place. I found
that tagged cells were *much* more expensive than regular ones, and I find
that I have to change the battery every few years.

I agree, tagged cells are more expensive, but using a more aggressive
plumbers flux, you can solder wires to ordinary cells. You can also
spot weld wires, with a bit of experience.

On Sun, 29 Jul 2018 19:15:01 +1000, cantankerous senile geezer Rot Speed
blabbered, again:

There is apparently an lcd display on it that shows battery with a
different amount shaded according to the amount left in the charge, but
somebody looked and said it was always blank which is not a good sign! In
the old days these things used to just have a string of cells in series
and a little plug on the internal pcb that fitted in two slots.

The bit I need to protect is the trimmer, as its the best one I've ever
had. it can cut hair, not just the sides.

I don¢t bother to shave anymore, mow the face down to stubble
every once in a while and do the hair with the same mower.

Yes, everyone was interested to learn how YOU shave, senile Rot! tsk
Geezuz Christ, what an self-opinionated asshole!

--
dennis@home to know-it-all Rot Speed:
"You really should stop commenting on things you know nothing about."
Message-ID:

On Sun, 29 Jul 2018 10:16:27 +0100, Harry Bloomfield wrote:

Clive Page explained :
I've done it on a Philips, which is held together by regular screws and
hex sockets. But my modification was to unsolder the tagged battery
from the PCB and then use a couple of bits of scrap brass to provide
contact plates so it would take a standard AA rechargeable cell just
pushed in place. I found that tagged cells were *much* more expensive
than regular ones, and I find that I have to change the battery every
few years.

I agree, tagged cells are more expensive, but using a more aggressive
plumbers flux, you can solder wires to ordinary cells. You can also spot
weld wires, with a bit of experience.

That's not always true. I found the tagged version of the 3 cell NiMH
replacement for the original plug in NiCad battery for our Potterton 2000
controller was less than half the price of the plug in version a year or
so back. I just ordered the tagged battery and removed the tags to
convert it to the more expensive battery. At least there was no risk of
heat damage converting from tagged to untagged. :-)

--
Johnny B Good