I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

Chris J Dixon Wrote in message:
I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

What are they 1 , 1.5 inch thick? Softwood? Jigsaw :-) finish off
with bit if whittling maybe...

Tho I'd hope the real ones are pressure treated? What would you
have to do to yours?

Overall depends how much you value your time I spose?

--
Jim K


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On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:
I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

Chris

Chamfer offers almost the same visual effect. I find "external" curves
fairly easy to carve using a coarse abrasive disk on a 125 mm angle
grinder. Internal are more difficult, but can still be done. Another
(not ideal) option would be a router.

On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

What about hand tools such as a coping saw for the curved bits?


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sun, 22 Apr 2018 08:35:28 +0100, Chris J Dixon wrote:

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Pilot hole all the way through, hole saw, drill from either side using the pilot
hole as a guide. Clean up using flap sanding disc in an angle grinder. Timber
that size won't need much clamping, but clamp a block as a stop, so that they
all come out the same.

Beware that hole saws tend to burn and scorch the wood, and its difficult to
sand out.

50 mm isn't much as a radius -- and larger hole saws cost and require plenty of
power.

Make a mockup of cardboard, waste ply, whatever, to check the silhouette.


Thomas Prufer

On 22/04/2018 12:16, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Sun, 22 Apr 2018 08:35:28 +0100, Chris J wrote:

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Pilot hole all the way through, hole saw, drill from either side using the pilot
hole as a guide. Clean up using flap sanding disc in an angle grinder. Timber
that size won't need much clamping, but clamp a block as a stop, so that they
all come out the same.

Beware that hole saws tend to burn and scorch the wood, and its difficult to
sand out.

50 mm isn't much as a radius -- and larger hole saws cost and require plenty of
power.

Make a mockup of cardboard, waste ply, whatever, to check the silhouette.


Thomas Prufer

Also, I suspect that the curves on the ready-made ones are not arcs of a
circle. They look more elliptical to me - which you can't achieve with a
holesaw.
--
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Roger
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Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:
I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Yup, BTDTGTTS:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

At £13 a pop, probably...

Personally I would have made up a MDF template of the shape required and
then fettled that until its a nice smooth representation of the finished
shape. Then draw round that onto the timber, and cut out close to the
line with a jigsaw or on the bandsaw. Finally, stick the template on the
wood, and route round it using a pattern following cutter.

(alternatively, just cut accurately with a jibsaw and sand out the cut
marks)

--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sunday, 22 April 2018 20:44:52 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:

I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Yup, BTDTGTTS:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

At £13 a pop, probably...

Personally I would have made up a MDF template of the shape required and
then fettled that until its a nice smooth representation of the finished
shape. Then draw round that onto the timber, and cut out close to the
line with a jigsaw or on the bandsaw. Finally, stick the template on the
wood, and route round it using a pattern following cutter.

(alternatively, just cut accurately with a jibsaw and sand out the cut
marks)

and if the OP has no jigsaw, any saw could get close enough to complete the job with a chisel & sander, even if it means sawing at 90 degrees to the expected direction.

FWIW it's quite possible to use a handheld circular saw by swinging it left & right rather than forwards, just be a bit careful doing so, don't let it try to bite off too much at once.


NT

alan_m wrote:

On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

What about hand tools such as a coping saw for the curved bits?

That might just work for the corner braces, but is still quite a
lot of cutting.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

Roger Mills wrote:

On 22/04/2018 12:16, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Sun, 22 Apr 2018 08:35:28 +0100, Chris J wrote:

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Pilot hole all the way through, hole saw, drill from either side using the pilot
hole as a guide. Clean up using flap sanding disc in an angle grinder. Timber
that size won't need much clamping, but clamp a block as a stop, so that they
all come out the same.

Beware that hole saws tend to burn and scorch the wood, and its difficult to
sand out.

That was a slight worry.

50 mm isn't much as a radius -- and larger hole saws cost and require plenty of
power.

That is also a concern.

Make a mockup of cardboard, waste ply, whatever, to check the silhouette.

That would be part of the plan.

Also, I suspect that the curves on the ready-made ones are not arcs of a
circle. They look more elliptical to me - which you can't achieve with a
holesaw.

They do appear a bit like that in the photo, but when I got to
see them the cut did look pretty circular, maybe with the centre
slightly offset away from the edge of the timber.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

John Rumm wrote:

On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:
I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Yup, BTDTGTTS:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

That is the kind of thing. The timber I would be cutting is
nominally 50 mm thick.

I guess you used an offcut or backing piece to locate the pilot
drill?

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

At £13 a pop, probably...

Personally I would have made up a MDF template of the shape required and
then fettled that until its a nice smooth representation of the finished
shape. Then draw round that onto the timber, and cut out close to the
line with a jigsaw or on the bandsaw. Finally, stick the template on the
wood, and route round it using a pattern following cutter.

(alternatively, just cut accurately with a jibsaw and sand out the cut
marks)

Right now I don't have jigsaw, bandsaw or router.

If I was to get a jigsaw (1) what would be the chance of my being
able to follow a curve with a blade suitable for 50 mm material?
I can see I might have more chance with thinner material for the
corner braces.

(1) Recommendations appreciated here.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

newshound wrote:

Chamfer offers almost the same visual effect.

My initial option was to suggest that, but the domestic
authorities were not keen.

I find "external" curves
fairly easy to carve using a coarse abrasive disk on a 125 mm angle
grinder. Internal are more difficult, but can still be done. Another
(not ideal) option would be a router.

The crosspieces are nominally 50 mm thick, so hat sounds like a
lot of chewing.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On Monday, 23 April 2018 11:54:56 UTC+1, Chris J Dixon wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:
I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Yup, BTDTGTTS:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

That is the kind of thing. The timber I would be cutting is
nominally 50 mm thick.

I guess you used an offcut or backing piece to locate the pilot
drill?

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

At £13 a pop, probably...

Personally I would have made up a MDF template of the shape required and
then fettled that until its a nice smooth representation of the finished
shape. Then draw round that onto the timber, and cut out close to the
line with a jigsaw or on the bandsaw. Finally, stick the template on the
wood, and route round it using a pattern following cutter.

(alternatively, just cut accurately with a jibsaw and sand out the cut
marks)

Right now I don't have jigsaw, bandsaw or router.

If I was to get a jigsaw (1) what would be the chance of my being
able to follow a curve with a blade suitable for 50 mm material?
I can see I might have more chance with thinner material for the
corner braces.

(1) Recommendations appreciated here.

Chris

2" and a jigsaw aren't a good combination IMLE. You've been very secretive about what saws or other cutting kit you do have.


NT

Chris J Dixon wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

That is the kind of thing. The timber I would be cutting is
nominally 50 mm thick.

I found a 65mm holesaw was on the limit for my HR2450 drill through 50mm
thick oak, you'd probably get away with a bigger diameter through
softwood, 100mm probably ok ...

wrote:

2" and a jigsaw aren't a good combination IMLE.

That was what I thought.

You've been very secretive about what saws or other cutting kit you do have.

Simply because, despite plenty of history of DIY, I'm not in the
habit of machining significant bits of wood, other than to get
them flat, smooth or square.

Right now, in terms of cutting a curve, a coping saw is about the
only tool that could do it, but I see that as impractical for
repetitive shapes in 50 mm softwood.

I have no jigsaw, router or bandsaw. The circular saw is
effectively irrelevant. I have no drum sander.

The pillar drill (which I have) was my thought in connection with
a suitable holesaw (which I don't have), but was seeking advice
from anyone who may have already tried it.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On 23/04/2018 11:54, Chris J Dixon wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:
I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Yup, BTDTGTTS:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

That is the kind of thing. The timber I would be cutting is
nominally 50 mm thick.

Within the capability of a hole saw, even if you have to flip the piece
and cut from both sides.

I guess you used an offcut or backing piece to locate the pilot
drill?


I did not use the pilot at all. I just made a quick "fence" with a off
cut of MDF as a base and a couple of battens glued to it:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...nercut_jig.jpg

Clamped that to the drill table, and offered the wood into the "corner"
and clamped it. The position set such that it bit a perfect quarter
circle out of the corner.

(alternatively, just cut accurately with a jibsaw and sand out the cut
marks)

Right now I don't have jigsaw, bandsaw or router.

If I was to get a jigsaw (1) what would be the chance of my being
able to follow a curve with a blade suitable for 50 mm material?
I can see I might have more chance with thinner material for the
corner braces.

(1) Recommendations appreciated here.

Problem is there are jigsaws and jigsaws... Most peoples experience is
with offerings on the budget end of the market. Based on those they
usually end up with a fairly low expectation of what the tool will do
well, and also wonder at the sanity of people who spend £100+ on a
jigsaw, since it "obviously" can't be that much better.

However if you have used both categories of jigsaw you understand what
the difference is - and it is quite marked.

To be fair, you would probably get a reasonable result with a budget one
for this application - use a good quality sharp blade, and some pendulum
action if the tool supports it, but you *will* get a decent result and
need to do less sanding with a "pro" level machine. (they are also much
nicer to use IME)

Hence I would recommend something like:

https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-...-and-carrycase

I appreciate that for a one off job its probably excessive. However once
you find how well they cut, you may find other jobs for it.

General notes on jigsaws:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/jigsaw.htm



--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Mon, 23 Apr 2018 13:45:00 +0100, Chris J Dixon wrote:

I have no jigsaw, router or bandsaw. The circular saw is
effectively irrelevant. I have no drum sander.

The pillar drill (which I have) was my thought in connection with
a suitable holesaw (which I don't have), but was seeking advice
from anyone who may have already tried it.

Maybe jigsaw/hole saw/chain saw to hack the wood to dimensions roughly, and the
a sanding drum to get it true and/or unscorched?

The sanding drum I mean could be used in a pillar drill.

Random hit: http://www.grizzly.com/products/3-x-3-Large-Sanding-Drum/G1286

These can be diy-ed from wood, and also made to take sandpaper sheets...



Thomas Prufer

On 23/04/2018 12:06, wrote:

2" and a jigsaw aren't a good combination IMLE.

My (good) jigsaw[1] handles 2" thick softwood with ease. I have used it
often for things like birds mouth joints on rafters. You can even stick
a 5" cut depth blade in it if you want...

(my old B&D jigsaw, less so!)


[1] 15 year old Makita 4340CT
--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/04/2018 12:15, Andy Burns wrote:
Chris J Dixon wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

That is the kind of thing. The timber I would be cutting is
nominally 50 mm thick.

I found a 65mm holesaw was on the limit for my HR2450 drill through 50mm
thick oak, you'd probably get away with a bigger diameter through
softwood, 100mm probably ok ...

Its much easier on the drill when only taking a quarter of the circle in
a cut - its also easy for it to clear the sawdust from the cut (since it
falls out of the open end of the cut).

Doing the full circle (especially if drilling down), its much easier to
choke the saw in the hole. The clutch on the HR2450 would probably let
go with larger saws into hard wood when cutting like that. (I have cut
107mm diamond cores with mine - but you have to keep the cut very
straight and take it very gently to keep the clutch engaged)


(My drill press is only something like 1/2" HP, and that managed ok with
a relatively low gear selected)

--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , Chris J Dixon
writes
wrote:

2" and a jigsaw aren't a good combination IMLE.

That was what I thought.

You've been very secretive about what saws or other cutting kit you do have.

Simply because, despite plenty of history of DIY, I'm not in the
habit of machining significant bits of wood, other than to get
them flat, smooth or square.

Right now, in terms of cutting a curve, a coping saw is about the
only tool that could do it, but I see that as impractical for
repetitive shapes in 50 mm softwood.

I have no jigsaw, router or bandsaw. The circular saw is
effectively irrelevant. I have no drum sander.

The pillar drill (which I have) was my thought in connection with
a suitable holesaw (which I don't have), but was seeking advice
from anyone who may have already tried it.

A bench saw with a small diameter blade could work for the crosspieces.
Set the cut depth with the blade stationary and fix a stop such that the
saw teeth form the radius you want. Now adjust the width of cut such
that the kerf just breaks the surface.

Go through all your crosspieces on those settings and then adjust the
cut width for the next slice. Spokeshave to tidy up.

--
Tim Lamb

John Rumm wrote:

On 23/04/2018 12:15, Andy Burns wrote:

I found a 65mm holesaw was on the limit for my HR2450 drill through 50mm
thick oak, you'd probably get away with a bigger diameter through
softwood, 100mm probably ok ...

Its much easier on the drill when only taking a quarter of the circle in
a cut - its also easy for it to clear the sawdust from the cut (since it
falls out of the open end of the cut).

(My drill press is only something like 1/2" HP, and that managed ok with
a relatively low gear selected)

Thanks, that's really useful information.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

John Rumm wrote:

Within the capability of a hole saw, even if you have to flip the piece
and cut from both sides.

I guess you used an offcut or backing piece to locate the pilot
drill?


I did not use the pilot at all. I just made a quick "fence" with a off
cut of MDF as a base and a couple of battens glued to it:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...nercut_jig.jpg

Clamped that to the drill table, and offered the wood into the "corner"
and clamped it. The position set such that it bit a perfect quarter
circle out of the corner.

That looks very achievable.

Problem is there are jigsaws and jigsaws... Most peoples experience is
with offerings on the budget end of the market. Based on those they
usually end up with a fairly low expectation of what the tool will do
well, and also wonder at the sanity of people who spend £100+ on a
jigsaw, since it "obviously" can't be that much better.

However if you have used both categories of jigsaw you understand what
the difference is - and it is quite marked.

To be fair, you would probably get a reasonable result with a budget one
for this application - use a good quality sharp blade, and some pendulum
action if the tool supports it, but you *will* get a decent result and
need to do less sanding with a "pro" level machine. (they are also much
nicer to use IME)

Hence I would recommend something like:

https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-...-and-carrycase

I appreciate that for a one off job its probably excessive. However once
you find how well they cut, you may find other jobs for it.

General notes on jigsaws:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/jigsaw.htm

Thanks for the details, I guess it is time for some homework.

Are jigsaw blades long (and strong) enough for 50 mm timber
narrow enough to follow curves easily?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On Monday, 23 April 2018 13:45:02 UTC+1, Chris J Dixon wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:

2" and a jigsaw aren't a good combination IMLE.

That was what I thought.

You've been very secretive about what saws or other cutting kit you do have.

Simply because, despite plenty of history of DIY, I'm not in the
habit of machining significant bits of wood, other than to get
them flat, smooth or square.

Right now, in terms of cutting a curve, a coping saw is about the
only tool that could do it, but I see that as impractical for
repetitive shapes in 50 mm softwood.

I have no jigsaw, router or bandsaw. The circular saw is
effectively irrelevant. I have no drum sander.

The pillar drill (which I have) was my thought in connection with
a suitable holesaw (which I don't have), but was seeking advice
from anyone who may have already tried it.

OK, if your tools are a secret we can't help.


NT

On 23/04/2018 21:33, Chris J Dixon wrote:

Hence I would recommend something like:

https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-...-and-carrycase

I appreciate that for a one off job its probably excessive. However once
you find how well they cut, you may find other jobs for it.

General notes on jigsaws:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/jigsaw.htm

Thanks for the details, I guess it is time for some homework.

Are jigsaw blades long (and strong) enough for 50 mm timber

Yup plenty long and strong enough for that kind of cutting I normally
use something like:

https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-...aw-blad-p30972

(in reality you can cut something so long as the blade can reach through
the material at the bottom of the stroke).

I use those when cutting birds mouth joints into 50mm thick rafters for
example.


narrow enough to follow curves easily?

As long as the curve is not too tight. For example I was using a blade
like above (although the 14 tpi version) for scribing skirtings with a
torus pattern earlier today. That meant cutting round the 1/2" or so
radius. The above blades can do that, and possibly a bit tighter if you
are brutal with them. (also a cut, backup, turn a bit more, cut again
action can get tighter curves).

You can also get skinnier blades for tighter work:

https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-...aw-blad-p30977

or extra long ones as well:

https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-...w-blade-p30995



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:
On Sunday, 22 April 2018 20:44:52 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:

I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Yup, BTDTGTTS:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

At £13 a pop, probably...

Personally I would have made up a MDF template of the shape required and
then fettled that until its a nice smooth representation of the finished
shape. Then draw round that onto the timber, and cut out close to the
line with a jigsaw or on the bandsaw. Finally, stick the template on the
wood, and route round it using a pattern following cutter.

(alternatively, just cut accurately with a jibsaw and sand out the cut
marks)

and if the OP has no jigsaw, any saw could get close enough to complete the job with a chisel & sander, even if it means sawing at 90 degrees to the expected direction.

FWIW it's quite possible to use a handheld circular saw by swinging it left & right rather than forwards, just be a bit careful doing so, don't let it try to bite off too much at once.


NT

What about the old fret saw or coping saw?

wrote:

On Monday, 23 April 2018 13:45:02 UTC+1, Chris J Dixon wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:

2" and a jigsaw aren't a good combination IMLE.

That was what I thought.

You've been very secretive about what saws or other cutting kit you do have.

Right now, in terms of cutting a curve, a coping saw is about the
only tool that could do it, but I see that as impractical for
repetitive shapes in 50 mm softwood.

I have no jigsaw, router or bandsaw. The circular saw is
effectively irrelevant. I have no drum sander.

The pillar drill (which I have) was my thought in connection with
a suitable holesaw (which I don't have), but was seeking advice
from anyone who may have already tried it.

OK, if your tools are a secret we can't help.

Clearly you can't although others have been able to.

In addition to what I have already mentioned, I have tenon, rip,
hack, pad and tree saws; drills both hand and electric, chisels,
grinding wheels, sanders, Surform, planes, multitool, Dremel...

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On 23/04/2018 11:58, Chris J Dixon wrote:
newshound wrote:

Chamfer offers almost the same visual effect.

My initial option was to suggest that, but the domestic
authorities were not keen.

I find "external" curves
fairly easy to carve using a coarse abrasive disk on a 125 mm angle
grinder. Internal are more difficult, but can still be done. Another
(not ideal) option would be a router.

The crosspieces are nominally 50 mm thick, so hat sounds like a
lot of chewing.

Chris

Oh no, you take most of it out by stitch drilling with something like a
15 mm flat bit.

On 23/04/2018 17:44, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2018 11:54, Chris J Dixon wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:
I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Yup, BTDTGTTS:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

That is the kind of thing. The timber I would be cutting is
nominally 50 mm thick.

Within the capability of a hole saw, even if you have to flip the piece
and cut from both sides.

I guess you used an offcut or backing piece to locate the pilot
drill?

No, just drill from one side until the pilot drill goes through then
flip and drill from the other. Best if you have a pillar drill, obviously.

On Tuesday, 24 April 2018 08:16:09 UTC+1, Chris J Dixon wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 23 April 2018 13:45:02 UTC+1, Chris J Dixon wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:

2" and a jigsaw aren't a good combination IMLE.

That was what I thought.

You've been very secretive about what saws or other cutting kit you do have.

Right now, in terms of cutting a curve, a coping saw is about the
only tool that could do it, but I see that as impractical for
repetitive shapes in 50 mm softwood.

I have no jigsaw, router or bandsaw. The circular saw is
effectively irrelevant. I have no drum sander.

The pillar drill (which I have) was my thought in connection with
a suitable holesaw (which I don't have), but was seeking advice
from anyone who may have already tried it.

OK, if your tools are a secret we can't help.

Clearly you can't although others have been able to.

In addition to what I have already mentioned, I have tenon, rip,
hack, pad and tree saws; drills both hand and electric, chisels,
grinding wheels, sanders, Surform, planes, multitool, Dremel...

Chris

Of course with enough random-tool suggestions/comments some will be helpful. I'm beginning to think you're trolling.

wrote:

I'm beginning to think you're trolling.

You can think whatever you like, as can I.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On 24/04/2018 02:56, FMurtz wrote:
wrote:
On Sunday, 22 April 2018 20:44:52 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:

I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Yup, BTDTGTTS:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

At £13 a pop, probably...

Personally I would have made up a MDF template of the shape required and
then fettled that until its a nice smooth representation of the finished
shape. Then draw round that onto the timber, and cut out close to the
line with a jigsaw or on the bandsaw. Finally, stick the template on the
wood, and route round it using a pattern following cutter.

(alternatively, just cut accurately with a jibsaw and sand out the cut
marks)

and if the OP has no jigsaw, any saw could get close enough to
complete the job with a chisel & sander, even if it means sawing at 90
degrees to the expected direction.

FWIW it's quite possible to use a handheld circular saw by swinging it
left & right rather than forwards, just be a bit careful doing so,
don't let it try to bite off too much at once.


NT

What about the old fret saw or coping saw?

Coping saw will do it fine. Although it does rather depends on how many
need shaping as yo how much fun that will be!

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/04/2018 08:24, newshound wrote:
On 23/04/2018 17:44, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2018 11:54, Chris J Dixon wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:
I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Yup, BTDTGTTS:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

That is the kind of thing. The timber I would be cutting is
nominally 50 mm thick.

Within the capability of a hole saw, even if you have to flip the
piece and cut from both sides.

I guess you used an offcut or backing piece to locate the pilot
drill?

No, just drill from one side until the pilot drill goes through then
flip and drill from the other. Best if you have a pillar drill, obviously.

You can't use the pilot drill when using a hole saw to remove just the
corner of the wood - there will be nothing for the pilot to drill into
that will offer any support / guidance.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tuesday, 24 April 2018 12:44:34 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/04/2018 02:56, FMurtz wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 22 April 2018 20:44:52 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/04/2018 08:35, Chris J Dixon wrote:

I am about to construct a pergola. SWMBO rather likes the look of
shaped timbers as seen here on rose arch kits:

https://www.george-walker.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping/pergolas/

The effect is as if a circular cutter has been used to take a
quadrant slice from the end of each crosspiece.

I guess that a deep enough holesaw of at least 100 mm diameter
might make such a cut. If I can fit it into my pillar drill, and
clamp the timber in place, might I actually be able to complete
the job successfully?

Yup, BTDTGTTS:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Small_bookcase

The other shape I am looking to make is 4 off like the larger of
the two corner braces shown here

http://tate-fencing.co.uk/product/corner-brace/

I don't have a bandsaw, and haven't room for one. I guess a good
jigsaw might have the capacity, but I don't anticipate further
need for one. Should I just grit my teeth and buy them ready
made?

At £13 a pop, probably...

Personally I would have made up a MDF template of the shape required and
then fettled that until its a nice smooth representation of the finished
shape. Then draw round that onto the timber, and cut out close to the
line with a jigsaw or on the bandsaw. Finally, stick the template on the
wood, and route round it using a pattern following cutter.

(alternatively, just cut accurately with a jibsaw and sand out the cut
marks)

and if the OP has no jigsaw, any saw could get close enough to
complete the job with a chisel & sander, even if it means sawing at 90
degrees to the expected direction.

FWIW it's quite possible to use a handheld circular saw by swinging it
left & right rather than forwards, just be a bit careful doing so,
don't let it try to bite off too much at once.


NT

What about the old fret saw or coping saw?

Coping saw will do it fine. Although it does rather depends on how many
need shaping as yo how much fun that will be!

I'm trying to think of any saw that couldn't get it at least roughly to shape and can't, barring things like self feeding industrial bandsaws. Oh, and a crappy jigsaw with a cheapo stamped blade would be really pushing it.


NT

On 24/04/2018 12:47, John Rumm wrote:

You can't use the pilot drill when using a hole saw to remove just the
corner of the wood - there will be nothing for the pilot to drill into
that will offer any support / guidance.

Just clamp a piece of sacrificial wood of the same depth to the side of
the work piece and drill the pilot hole and/or the complete large hole.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 26/04/2018 11:22, alan_m wrote:
On 24/04/2018 12:47, John Rumm wrote:

You can't use the pilot drill when using a hole saw to remove just the
corner of the wood - there will be nothing for the pilot to drill into
that will offer any support / guidance.

Just clamp a piece of sacrificial wood of the same depth to the side of
the work piece and drill the pilot hole and/or the complete large hole.


You put a second beam edge to edge, and make two parts at once. You have
to leave the beam slightly too long and only cut to final length after
making the hole. Unless your source timber is more than twice as long as
the final beam, then you can do four quadrants with one hole.

That said, I don't think a hole saw is the ideal tool unless you were
making a lot of them, in which case you could set up jigs, etc.

On 26/04/2018 11:22, alan_m wrote:
On 24/04/2018 12:47, John Rumm wrote:

You can't use the pilot drill when using a hole saw to remove just the
corner of the wood - there will be nothing for the pilot to drill into
that will offer any support / guidance.

Just clamp a piece of sacrificial wood of the same depth to the side of
the work piece and drill the pilot hole and/or the complete large hole.



You don't even need that, a piece of plywood with the hole in it will
act as a guide for a hole saw. You just clamp/stick it to the surface of
what you are cutting. You can reuse it many times if you are careful.

On 26/04/2018 11:22, alan_m wrote:
On 24/04/2018 12:47, John Rumm wrote:

You can't use the pilot drill when using a hole saw to remove just the
corner of the wood - there will be nothing for the pilot to drill into
that will offer any support / guidance.

Just clamp a piece of sacrificial wood of the same depth to the side of
the work piece and drill the pilot hole and/or the complete large hole.

Not much point when the work is held in a jig, and the saw in a pillar
drill - just remove the pilot altogether.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

I did not use the pilot at all. I just made a quick "fence" with a off
cut of MDF as a base and a couple of battens glued to it:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...nercut_jig.jpg

Clamped that to the drill table, and offered the wood into the "corner"
and clamped it. The position set such that it bit a perfect quarter
circle out of the corner.

I can now report complete success with the hole cutting.

This is the holesaw I went with in the end:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01AWFCOBK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I set up a jig, much like yours, and didn't use the pilot drill.

As I couldn't quite get right through because of the saw depth,
and also the feed limit on my drill, I reckoned that I would get
better registration if I removed the cut material, and re-clamped
the workpiece on a packer, continuing from the same side. It
worked a treat.

The only problem was slight belt slippage on my Aldi drill press,
but this is probably the greatest test it will meet.

To complete the record, I decided that a good jigsaw with blades
was going to cost me as much as the corner brackets, so I bought
them.

Thanks again for the helpful advice

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

Jim K wrote:

How will you preserve them now you've cut chunks out?

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p32693

Ensele End Grain Treatment

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

Chris J Dixon Wrote in message:
John Rumm wrote:

I did not use the pilot at all. I just made a quick "fence" with a off
cut of MDF as a base and a couple of battens glued to it:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...nercut_jig.jpg

Clamped that to the drill table, and offered the wood into the "corner"
and clamped it. The position set such that it bit a perfect quarter
circle out of the corner.

I can now report complete success with the hole cutting.

This is the holesaw I went with in the end:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01AWFCOBK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I set up a jig, much like yours, and didn't use the pilot drill.

As I couldn't quite get right through because of the saw depth,
and also the feed limit on my drill, I reckoned that I would get
better registration if I removed the cut material, and re-clamped
the workpiece on a packer, continuing from the same side. It
worked a treat.

The only problem was slight belt slippage on my Aldi drill press,
but this is probably the greatest test it will meet.

To complete the record, I decided that a good jigsaw with blades
was going to cost me as much as the corner brackets, so I bought
them.

Thanks again for the helpful advice

How will you preserve them now you've cut chunks out?
--
Jim K