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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#81
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Actual DIY Q :-D
RJH Wrote in message:
On 28/03/2018 12:17, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 09:30, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 07:38, Jim K wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message: In article , Jim K wrote: ? But not longitudinal cuts or around curves... Got lots of curves in your rooms? Sink pedestals, WCs, also doorframes need detailed cuts - how about you? You'd actually cut laminate flooring round those things, would you? I have done. Have you ever done it? Sounds like a no... Certainly not a bodge like that. Remove everything so it goes underneath And screw them down through the laminate afterwards? How does that work with the required floating floor expansion gaps? Drill the fixing holes oversize. And don't tighten the screws? Yes, tighten the screws to fix, but allow movement. You wouldn't lock-tighten screws to sanitary ware anyway. 'Semi-floatng' :-) Wobbly bog? Each to their own as you say ;-) Er, it doesn't wobble - fixed firmly but not locked down. My turn to be unsure if I get what you're describing , so its not "locked down" (definition unclear) but screwed down firmly enough so as not to move at all yet still allowing your laminate underneath to expand & contract as it wants? Hats off if you've really achieved all that ;-) Do you have a silicone seal around your wobbly bog? How wide/thick is that? If not where does the **** go? Well, in the pan :-) I put a thin bead of clear silicone between the pan and laminate. 6mm fillet maybe? 2cm of flooring? Why so thick? Bodging over uneven floorboards perchance ? Each to their own ;) 14mm laminate, 5mm underlay Oh the chunky stuff..mmm -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#82
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
On 28/03/2018 22:21, Jim K wrote:
RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 12:17, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 09:30, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 07:38, Jim K wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message: In article , Jim K wrote: ? But not longitudinal cuts or around curves... Got lots of curves in your rooms? Sink pedestals, WCs, also doorframes need detailed cuts - how about you? You'd actually cut laminate flooring round those things, would you? I have done. Have you ever done it? Sounds like a no... Certainly not a bodge like that. Remove everything so it goes underneath And screw them down through the laminate afterwards? How does that work with the required floating floor expansion gaps? Drill the fixing holes oversize. And don't tighten the screws? Yes, tighten the screws to fix, but allow movement. You wouldn't lock-tighten screws to sanitary ware anyway. 'Semi-floatng' :-) Wobbly bog? Each to their own as you say ;-) Er, it doesn't wobble - fixed firmly but not locked down. My turn to be unsure if I get what you're describing , so its not "locked down" (definition unclear) but screwed down firmly enough so as not to move at all yet still allowing your laminate underneath to expand & contract as it wants? Hats off if you've really achieved all that ;-) Movement would be limited - the holes fixing the toilet are 1cm, giving 5mm of movement max. But that's further determined by the silicone and the weight of the toilet. I think that portion of the floor would be lucky to absorb 1/2mm of movement before something gives. It was a compromise (bodge) but hardly high risk - cheap materials, easy to (re)install. And plenty of scope for movement to be absorbed elsewhere, which isn't going to be great in a 3m x 2.5m room - only part of which is covered in laminate. So, taking into account the small risk, ability to absorb some movement, and a good looking installation, no regrets. I might consider your method with a very thin (6mm) laminate, but TBH my ability to make a perfect cut around a toilet pan is limited. And I'm back to thinking it wouldn't look as good, and limits what can be done if the toilet needs replacing. If you're happy, of course, fine by me, it's not a right/wrong thing. -- Cheers, Rob |
#83
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 22:21:50 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 12:17, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 09:30, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 07:38, Jim K wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message: In article , Jim K wrote: ? But not longitudinal cuts or around curves... Got lots of curves in your rooms? Sink pedestals, WCs, also doorframes need detailed cuts - how about you? You'd actually cut laminate flooring round those things, would you? I have done. Have you ever done it? Sounds like a no... Certainly not a bodge like that. Remove everything so it goes underneath And screw them down through the laminate afterwards? How does that work with the required floating floor expansion gaps? Drill the fixing holes oversize. And don't tighten the screws? Yes, tighten the screws to fix, but allow movement. You wouldn't lock-tighten screws to sanitary ware anyway. 'Semi-floatng' :-) Wobbly bog? Each to their own as you say ;-) Er, it doesn't wobble - fixed firmly but not locked down. My turn to be unsure if I get what you're describing , so its not "locked down" (definition unclear) but screwed down firmly enough so as not to move at all yet still allowing your laminate underneath to expand & contract as it wants? Hats off if you've really achieved all that ;-) Do you have a silicone seal around your wobbly bog? How wide/thick is that? If not where does the **** go? Well, in the pan :-) I put a thin bead of clear silicone between the pan and laminate. 6mm fillet maybe? 2cm of flooring? Why so thick? Bodging over uneven floorboards perchance ? Each to their own ;) 14mm laminate, 5mm underlay Oh the chunky stuff..mmm chunkey I thought 12mm was the standard for kitchen and bathroons althout 8mm can be used, so maybe 14mm is chunky but it seems quite popular for some reason. 5mm underlay is also standard. |
#84
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
On 29/03/2018 11:15, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 22:21:50 UTC+1, JimK wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 12:17, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 09:30, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 07:38, Jim K wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message: In article , Jim K wrote: ? But not longitudinal cuts or around curves... Got lots of curves in your rooms? Sink pedestals, WCs, also doorframes need detailed cuts - how about you? You'd actually cut laminate flooring round those things, would you? I have done. Have you ever done it? Sounds like a no... Certainly not a bodge like that. Remove everything so it goes underneath And screw them down through the laminate afterwards? How does that work with the required floating floor expansion gaps? Drill the fixing holes oversize. And don't tighten the screws? Yes, tighten the screws to fix, but allow movement. You wouldn't lock-tighten screws to sanitary ware anyway. 'Semi-floatng' :-) Wobbly bog? Each to their own as you say ;-) Er, it doesn't wobble - fixed firmly but not locked down. My turn to be unsure if I get what you're describing , so its not "locked down" (definition unclear) but screwed down firmly enough so as not to move at all yet still allowing your laminate underneath to expand & contract as it wants? Hats off if you've really achieved all that ;-) Do you have a silicone seal around your wobbly bog? How wide/thick is that? If not where does the **** go? Well, in the pan :-) I put a thin bead of clear silicone between the pan and laminate. 6mm fillet maybe? 2cm of flooring? Why so thick? Bodging over uneven floorboards perchance ? Each to their own ;) 14mm laminate, 5mm underlay Oh the chunky stuff..mmm chunkey I thought 12mm was the standard for kitchen and bathroons althout 8mm can be used, so maybe 14mm is chunky but it seems quite popular for some reason. 5mm underlay is also standard. Much prefer the thicker stuff - seems easier to lay-lock on the not entirely level 100 year+ floors in this house. -- Cheers, Rob |
#85
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 10:58:57 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher wrote: On 27/03/18 23:14, GB wrote: On 27/03/2018 20:10, wrote: On Tuesday, 27 March 2018 17:13:44 UTC+1, wrote: As others have said: a jigsaw is not good in thick materials because the blade bends, especially if you are following a fence. I've sometimes rough cut with a jigsaw but have always finished with a 1/2" router and a long cutter. If you don't want to buy the correct tool for the job then why not hire? because it's as expensive as buying. So true, unfortunately! total ******** ime I looked into hiring a 9" angle grinder and diamond blade over a weekend. Cost pretty well the same as buying from Lidl. But being London, hiring may be more expensive here. the few times I looked at hiring I could buy for the same or less. I soon stopped bothering to look. NT |
#86
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 11:44:06 UTC+1, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 11:27:41 UTC+1, JimK wrote: whisky-dave Wrote in message: On Tuesday, 27 March 2018 17:13:44 UTC+1, wrote: On 26/03/2018 16:39, whisky-dave wrote: I'm thinking of laying wooden type laminate flooring in the kitchen and will also need to cut a couple of pieces of kitchen worktop just the compressed wood ones with the formica type tops, so I'm thinking of buying a new jigsaw, my B&Q I got for just a £10 7 years ago is a bit past it's best. So any advice, I wont be doing much more with it there seems to be a few from £50 to £100 don't want to pay much more. Either 240V or cordless. any favourites makes/models from B&Q, screwfix, argos, ITS or aldi are all close to me As others have said: a jigsaw is not good in thick materials because the blade bends, especially if you are following a fence. I've sometimes rough cut with a jigsaw but have always finished with a 1/2" router and a long cutter. If you don't want to buy the correct tool for the job then why not hire? I know someone that works for machinemart, but I don't know when I want to do the cutting, it could be just after easter of up until late september. I'm suprised no one has suggested buying something then taking it back saying it's unsuitable. Unless they're the manager ;-);-) I suspect you'll run into bother returning even unused items to that shower... He works in the returns department but employed by clarkesons rather than machinemart, he always seems really busy working from 8am to 6pm, I assume there's a reason why they get so many returns which could be why I'm not planning on buying from them, even if I do get a 10-15% discount. Machine Mart are the place of last resort for us. They've usually got the goods but I'd rather buy elsewhere. NT |
#87
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 13:27:40 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Jim K wrote: Only to an extent. Tell us about your unbelievably laughable claim to have never needed to cut a full plank with anything other than a chop saw even longitudinally? :-) I never said that. You've just made it up. "And must admit to finding a chop saw more use for laminate flooring than a jigsaw, since it gives accurate cuts." You're pathetic. We worked that out ages ago. |
#88
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 16:41:21 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message: In article , Jim K wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message: In article , Jim K wrote: You've said your laminate needs to move around. Just how does this equate with your perfectly cut hole round a bog? Or anything else? Where did I say that Digger? This group seems to have lots who can't remember what they posted. Probably because they just say the first thing that comes into their head. ***************** From: Jim K Subject: Actual DIY Q :-D Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2018 07:35 Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y Certainly not a bodge like that. Remove everything so it goes underneath And screw them down through the laminate afterwards? How does that work with the required floating floor expansion gaps? **************** No you cock, where's the "perfectly cut hole" ****e you made up and attempted to attribute to me? I'm absolutely certain you couldn't cut flooring to fit round a bog without it looking terrible to anyone with taste. Good to hear you admit it. Why & where have i admitted to doing anything you made up in desperation Digger? You love the taste of your own bull**** don't you ? :-D I knew it would happen. Once Rod leaves another idiot soon crawls out of the woodwork. |
#89
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 16:51:00 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message: In article , Jim K wrote: Ah. So your jigsaw is the only saw you possess, so had to use it. Why didn't you just say that? Because that's not true, its presumably another of your vain attempts at inflammatory comment & would make no sense at all. So let me see. You possess a chop saw, but would still use a jigsaw to cut floorboards square? No one is "cutting floorboards square" you cretin, this thread is about laminate flooring remember?! You know, the stuff you think poor people have, remember? The stuff you still claim you only needed a chop saw to fit, remember? ! :-D Best ask your little man to explain it to you again, your memory is so hopeless I don't know how anyone can believe a word you trot out! Go and troll elsewhere. Arf arf! Feel free to keep trying to change the argument until you think you can win Digger... :-D Are you an 8 year old? |
#91
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 11:44:06 UTC+1, whisky-dave wrote: On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 11:27:41 UTC+1, JimK wrote: whisky-dave Wrote in message: On Tuesday, 27 March 2018 17:13:44 UTC+1, wrote: On 26/03/2018 16:39, whisky-dave wrote: I'm thinking of laying wooden type laminate flooring in the kitchen and will also need to cut a couple of pieces of kitchen worktop just the compressed wood ones with the formica type tops, so I'm thinking of buying a new jigsaw, my B&Q I got for just a £10 7 years ago is a bit past it's best. So any advice, I wont be doing much more with it there seems to be a few from £50 to £100 don't want to pay much more. Either 240V or cordless. any favourites makes/models from B&Q, screwfix, argos, ITS or aldi are all close to me As others have said: a jigsaw is not good in thick materials because the blade bends, especially if you are following a fence. I've sometimes rough cut with a jigsaw but have always finished with a 1/2" router and a long cutter. If you don't want to buy the correct tool for the job then why not hire? I know someone that works for machinemart, but I don't know when I want to do the cutting, it could be just after easter of up until late september. I'm suprised no one has suggested buying something then taking it back saying it's unsuitable. Unless they're the manager ;-);-) I suspect you'll run into bother returning even unused items to that shower... He works in the returns department but employed by clarkesons rather than machinemart, he always seems really busy working from 8am to 6pm, I assume there's a reason why they get so many returns which could be why I'm not planning on buying from them, even if I do get a 10-15% discount. Machine Mart are the place of last resort for us. They've usually got the goods but I'd rather buy elsewhere. NT WTF is "us" ? You and ......? (Insert Digger) ;-) -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#92
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
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#93
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Actual DIY Q :-D
RJH Wrote in message:
On 28/03/2018 22:21, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 12:17, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 09:30, Jim K wrote: RJH Wrote in message: On 28/03/2018 07:38, Jim K wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message: In article , Jim K wrote: ? But not longitudinal cuts or around curves... Got lots of curves in your rooms? Sink pedestals, WCs, also doorframes need detailed cuts - how about you? You'd actually cut laminate flooring round those things, would you? I have done. Have you ever done it? Sounds like a no... Certainly not a bodge like that. Remove everything so it goes underneath And screw them down through the laminate afterwards? How does that work with the required floating floor expansion gaps? Drill the fixing holes oversize. And don't tighten the screws? Yes, tighten the screws to fix, but allow movement. You wouldn't lock-tighten screws to sanitary ware anyway. 'Semi-floatng' :-) Wobbly bog? Each to their own as you say ;-) Er, it doesn't wobble - fixed firmly but not locked down. My turn to be unsure if I get what you're describing , so its not "locked down" (definition unclear) but screwed down firmly enough so as not to move at all yet still allowing your laminate underneath to expand & contract as it wants? Hats off if you've really achieved all that ;-) Movement would be limited - the holes fixing the toilet are 1cm, giving 5mm of movement max. But that's further determined by the silicone and the weight of the toilet. I think that portion of the floor would be lucky to absorb 1/2mm of movement before something gives. It was a compromise (bodge) but hardly high risk - cheap materials, easy to (re)install. And plenty of scope for movement to be absorbed elsewhere, which isn't going to be great in a 3m x 2.5m room - only part of which is covered in laminate. So, taking into account the small risk, ability to absorb some movement, and a good looking installation, no regrets. I might consider your method with a very thin (6mm) laminate, but TBH my ability to make a perfect cut around a toilet pan is limited. And I'm back to thinking it wouldn't look as good, and limits what can be done if the toilet needs replacing. If you're happy, of course, fine by me, it's not a right/wrong thing As always, *entirely dependent on the details of the situation & time, money, *requirements etc etc, eye of the beholder etc etc Toss up between removal of wcs & sinks & reinstallation ~12 to 20 mm higher up with possible plumbing & fixing aggravation at every step, vs fit around & loose some of the bottom porcelain showing next to the silicone... There are ways to make a neat hole scribed to suit bog bases etc, and (yes trolls,) allowing sufficient expansion room, neatly covered with a fillet of silicone that would be there anyway. Whatever cranks your handle ;-) & suits the circumstances -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
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