We went through this loop a few years ago. At the time, the way it worked was to continually keep the warm "hot" (maybe not fully boiling) and when we tasted tea from one in a shop it tasted a bit odd (maybe it was their one but we assumed because the water was continuously heated). Anyway after much discussion we bought one of these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00...AZL&ref=plSrch

It boils 1 cup (approx 250ml) at a time and probably takes about 25 seconds to do so. We have a tap and hose next to it for easy filling without moving the kettle. Descaling is the same as with a regular kettle.

In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
I always put more in than I need otherwise completly emptying the kettle
results is some bits of calcium carbonate and other crude being poured
into the cup and I'd rather it stayed in the kettle.

Try rinsing the kettle with cold water once in a while.

--
*A fool and his money are soon partying *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 13/02/2018 22:13, Tim Streater wrote:
In article , Tim Lamb
wrote:

I'm trying to push her towards the combined hot/cold/boiling tap
arrangement.

Our main tap is hot softened, cold softened, cold unsoftened filtered.
The Quooker tap is boiling only and mounted away from the main tap, for
safety.

This is a hard water area and I am concerned about scale inside the
reservoir. Presumably there is an over pressure relief valve and some
sort of tundish arrangement. I don't have a huge amount of confidence
in the filter/scale remover offering either:-(

No water softener then? I think you either have to buy their softener
or have your own, otherwise it scales up.

I'm sure when I looked into them previously there was something in
manufacturer details saying they should not be used with a water
softener but couldn't find any reason why not.

On 15/02/2018 13:41, wrote:
We went through this loop a few years ago. At the time, the way it worked was to continually keep the warm "hot" (maybe not fully boiling) and when we tasted tea from one in a shop it tasted a bit odd (maybe it was their one but we assumed because the water was continuously heated). Anyway after much discussion we bought one of these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00...AZL&ref=plSrch

It boils 1 cup (approx 250ml) at a time and probably takes about 25 seconds to do so. We have a tap and hose next to it for easy filling without moving the kettle. Descaling is the same as with a regular kettle.


Is the dispensed water boiling though? According to the (cough) Which
report, it isn't (water in the cup 91C from a dispenser, 96C from a kettle).

--
Cheers, Rob

I can measure it tonight. I am very fussy with my tea as I find that it doesn't brew properly with water that is below boiling. I don't notice any difference between it and the water from the kettle.

On Thu, 15 Feb 2018 13:51:19 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
I always put more in than I need otherwise completly emptying the
kettle results is some bits of calcium carbonate and other crude being
poured into the cup and I'd rather it stayed in the kettle.

Try rinsing the kettle with cold water once in a while.

Even our £4.99 kettles had a filter. The only problem was that it was
incredibly fragile.

Current (Bosch) kettle has a hefty metal 'gauze' filter.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

leenowell wrote:

I can measure it tonight. I am very fussy with my tea as I find that
it doesn't brew properly with water that is below boiling. I don't
notice any difference between it and the water from the kettle.


Don't they keep it above 100„ƒ but prevented from boiling by the mains
pressure, then it cools as it boils when you open the tap and release
the pressure?

In message , www.GymRatZ.co.uk
writes
On 13/02/2018 22:13, Tim Streater wrote:
In article , Tim Lamb
wrote:

I'm trying to push her towards the combined hot/cold/boiling tap
arrangement.

Our main tap is hot softened, cold softened, cold unsoftened filtered.
The Quooker tap is boiling only and mounted away from the main tap, for
safety.

This is a hard water area and I am concerned about scale inside the
reservoir. Presumably there is an over pressure relief valve and some
sort of tundish arrangement. I don't have a huge amount of confidence
in the filter/scale remover offering either:-(

No water softener then? I think you either have to buy their softener
or have your own, otherwise it scales up.

I'm sure when I looked into them previously there was something in
manufacturer details saying they should not be used with a water
softener but couldn't find any reason why not.

Wrong sort of ions? The current under sink heater has a sacrificial
anode. Presumably to protect the tank and element from corrosion.



--
Tim Lamb

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
news
OK So she wants a quooker!
Discuss:-)

I Googled it to find out what the hell it is, and in their Terms &
Conditions it says "You may not create any links to this Website". Perhaps
they're ashamed of their prices.
--
Dave W

On Thursday, 15 February 2018 13:56:08 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
I always put more in than I need otherwise completly emptying the kettle
results is some bits of calcium carbonate and other crude being poured
into the cup and I'd rather it stayed in the kettle.

Try rinsing the kettle with cold water once in a while.

I do, that is why the lip has a filter to collect the larger flakes.

I've tried using just the right amount, but you must realsie that after boiling some water gets lost via steam and stays in teh kettle. So boiling 250ml of water doesntl actually give you 250ml of boiling water, would have though that would be obvious when seeing steam. Pretty basic physics .

On Thursday, 15 February 2018 14:23:12 UTC, wrote:
I can measure it tonight. I am very fussy with my tea as I find that it doesn't brew properly with water that is below boiling. I don't notice any difference between it and the water from the kettle.

I have one of those IR thermometers which was brought as a cat toy.
I can measure the temprature of soup in a pan or oil in a fryier, or water in a cup even the temp of peas in the microwave and it doesn't need washing on each check or between diffent pots. I've even used it to see what temp the bath water is.

On Thursday, 15 February 2018 14:52:44 UTC, Bob Eager wrote:
On Thu, 15 Feb 2018 13:51:19 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
I always put more in than I need otherwise completly emptying the
kettle results is some bits of calcium carbonate and other crude being
poured into the cup and I'd rather it stayed in the kettle.

Try rinsing the kettle with cold water once in a while.

Even our £4.99 kettles had a filter. The only problem was that it was
incredibly fragile.

Current (Bosch) kettle has a hefty metal 'gauze' filter.

Mine has too, and mine is also a filter kettle.
And I'm not hard up enough to measure water to nearest 1ml to make sure I don't boil to much.

On 14/02/2018 17:58, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Huge was thinking very hard :
That's what I used to do, but since going induction, the hob heats the
water faster than the kettle.

I cannot really see how that can be, if the Kw rating are the same. A
kettle is as near as matters delivers 100% of the energy direct into the
water, as the element is submerged directly in contact with the
contents. An induction hob has losses, the heat is also wasted heating
the container, then the contents.

Easy, kettle typically 2kw, ring on induction hob typically 3.5kw and above.
So they are not the same kw rating.

On 15/02/2018 14:18, RJH wrote:
On 15/02/2018 13:41, wrote:
We went through this loop a few years ago. At the time, the way it
worked was to continually keep the warm "hot" (maybe not fully
boiling) and when we tasted tea from one in a shop it tasted a bit odd
(maybe it was their one but we assumed because the water was
continuously heated). Anyway after much discussion we bought one of these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00...AZL&ref=plSrch


It boils 1 cup (approx 250ml) at a time and probably takes about 25
seconds to do so. We have a tap and hose next to it for easy filling
without moving the kettle. Descaling is the same as with a regular
kettle.


Is the dispensed water boiling though? According to the (cough) Which
report, it isn't (water in the cup 91C from a dispenser, 96C from a
kettle).


The water is forced out by steam so it must be boiling.
How do which measure it?

Maybe they got the other one that heats a bit of water at a time and
expels a steady slow stream rather than a cupful in about 3 seconds
after a 30-40 second wait.

In article , dennis@home
wrote:
On 14/02/2018 17:58, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Huge was thinking very hard :
That's what I used to do, but since going induction, the hob heats the
water faster than the kettle.

I cannot really see how that can be, if the Kw rating are the same. A
kettle is as near as matters delivers 100% of the energy direct into
the water, as the element is submerged directly in contact with the
contents. An induction hob has losses, the heat is also wasted heating
the container, then the contents.

Easy, kettle typically 2kw, ring on induction hob typically 3.5kw and
above. So they are not the same kw rating.


our kettle is rated 3kW

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

Roger Hayter brought next idea :
People usually put more water than they need in the kettle, often
because of a rather high safe minimum level.

Which are designed the way they are, to save them adding a level
indicator which goes further down the outside. When I fill a kettle, I
just do a visual inside, to ensure the element or base is well covered.
If I know there is not enough left in for a subsequent boil, I leave
the kettle off its base as a reminder.

Hi Tim

I have run a couple of tests with the one cup kettle I mentioned. From pressing the button to the whole cup filled was 35/ 40 seconds. In terms of temp, the water once in the cup (will be slightly less than what came out of the kettle) was 90 for the one cup one and 92 for the normal kettle.

Hope that helps

Lee

On 15/02/2018 12:45, Tim Lamb wrote:

We have a Duallit (noisiest kettle in the world) where the heating
element is not immersed in the water.

I was wondering about quiet electric kettles. A few weeks ago I sent a
kettle to land-fill. Standard construction with the flat element in the
base but it was a cylinder with straight sides. The failure mechanism
was that it didn't cut out when the water boiled. It had an electronic
control that allowed the water temperature to be set from barely warm to
boiling. I guess that water/steam and electronics don't mix.

I've replaced it with a Asda £7 special which is nominally the same
power but it is so noisy compared to the old kettle. This kettle is
designed with a top being narrower than the base and I wonder if this
contributes to the noise? I don't think its necessarily related to the
price as a friend has a very expensive and heavy kettle (with the base
wider than the top) and that can wake the household when used in the
morning.

I'm not asking about what causes the noise but why some kettles are much
quieter than others when there is no difference in power or in the basic
element construction.

I live in an area where kettles don't get scaled up so a layer of
limescale deposited over time is probably not responsible for quieting
down the appliance.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 15/02/2018 18:23, charles wrote:

our kettle is rated 3kW


Quite a bit less than the 4.8 kw ring on my hob and its a cheapish one.

On Thu, 15 Feb 2018 05:41:19 -0800, leenowell wrote:

We went through this loop a few years ago. At the time, the way it
worked was to continually keep the warm "hot" (maybe not fully boiling)
and when we tasted tea from one in a shop it tasted a bit odd (maybe it
was their one but we assumed because the water was continuously heated).
Anyway after much discussion we bought one of these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00...ef=mp_s_a_1_1?
ie=UTF8&qid=1518701666&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=one
+cup+kettles&dpPl=1&dpID=41wK67rhAZL&ref=plSrch

It boils 1 cup (approx 250ml) at a time and probably takes about 25
seconds to do so. We have a tap and hose next to it for easy filling
without moving the kettle. Descaling is the same as with a regular
kettle.

As far as I'm concerned, that looks like a solution to a problem I don't
have. I need the exercise! :-)

A ten quid Cookworks 3KW jug kettle from Argos does the job just fine
for me since it fits nicely into my 'Tea Making Ceremony'. Realising just
how sedentary my job had become, once I became self employed twenty years
back, selling, then repairing PCs, I knew I had to resist the temptation
to keep a kettle in the first floor bedroom I'd converted to my office/
workshop, electing to trudge up and down the stairs to our back kitchen
every time I fancied/needed a brew.

This need for 'exercise' extended to my tea making arrangement in that I
deliberately chose not to arrange the kettle and tea makings to be
'ergonomically handy' to the kitchen sink in order to force me to take
the two or three steps back and forth between the sink and the worktop
area where the kettle was plugged in just a couple of (vital!) metres
away from the sink.

I normally top the kettle back up to just over the 750mL mark[1] after
every 'tea making ritual' so that it's ready to be switched on as soon as
I step into the kitchen to brew my next 'cuppa' ('mugga'?) tea. This way
I guarantee that the water is no colder than room temperature at worst
and very likely a degree or two warmer, thus minimising energy costs.

If it's just for myself, I'll tip about 150mL or so into my used tea mug
to then be tipped into the sink when I rinse it out for the impending
brew up. Otherwise, when the missus fancies a cup of coffee as well,
there's already just enough room temperature (or warmer) water in the
kettle[2] for the both of us I just switch it straight on.

Usually, it's just me so I know I have only about 90 seconds tops to
prepare the makings in time to pour some of the just boiling water into a
small stainless steel 1 1/2 mug capacity teapot to warm it and rinse out
at the sink before stepping back yet again to the tea making work area to
turn the kettle back on for the 3 or so seconds it takes to come back to
the boil. This gives me just enough time to grab the teabag and chuck it
into the teapot before pouring the water into the pot and taking the
kettle back to the sink (still tilted to prevent the remaining 150mL or
so of just boiled water from dissipating the residual heat away by
evaporation) where I'll top it back up through the spout to ensure the
maximum of heat transfer into the fresh charge of cold tap water.

Having returned with the topped up kettle to deal with stirring the
teapot and closing its lid to let it brew for another minute or two, I
flick the teaspoon dry and perch it on top of the kettle to dry out (it's
the driest, least contaminated place to park the teaspoon) whilst I pour
a drop of milk into the mug so when I've poured the tea, I can avoid
wetting the sugar in the sugar bowl when sugaring my fresh mug of tea.

The final step is to rinse the spoon under the cold tap, shake it dryish
and park it into the spout of the still warm teapot, ready for the next
session. I save emptying the dregs and used teabag until my next brew up
an hour or three later. This saves me having to scrounge around for a
fresh teaspoon every time I brew up.

As you can see, a Quooker would be of little benefit to my tea making
ritual unless you count the reduction of exercise as a benefit which,
believe me, couldn't be further from the truth! :-(

[1] It only takes a little thought to top back up to a specific level
chosen to minimise energy costs. After all, you still have to turn the
bloody tap off regardless of how careless you may be in over-filling it
so you may as well choose a specific point at which to stop filling the
kettle which also reduces the effort of lugging more water around than is
strictly necessary.

[2] We don't have a lime scale issue in our area and the kettle baseplate
stays largely limescale free. What little there is, is confined to a
small area immediately below the filling/pouring spout where the cold
filling water is obviously precipitating the lime scale out of the weak
calcium carbonate solution.

I might rinse it out with fresh cold water once in a blue moon but in
the meantime, what (if any) limescale particles do get past the spout
filter, quickly settle to the bottom of the teapot due to their weight
where most of it gets swilled away on the next tea brewing cycle. The few
bits of limescale that do manage to land up in the tea mug are no great
problem since they stay at the bottom of the mug to remain with the
dregs until the next rinse out/cleaning cycle.

[3] I don't waste electricity waiting for the kettle to turn itself off
when it's quite plainly already boiling the water - I regard the
automatic shut off as a safety/(convenience) feature (for lazy profligate
*******s). :-)

--
Johnny B Good

In message , Huge
writes
On 2018-02-15, Tim Lamb wrote:

We have a Duallit (noisiest kettle in the world)

I'll see your Dualit and raise you the cheapo Chinese Tescos one we bought
when the spout fell off the second or third Morphy-Richards. Jesus, that
thing's noisy.

BTW, is the Dualit any good? The toasters are marvellous, but the coffee
percolator was rubbish and now languishes in a drawer.

Expensive! Although ours must be more than 10 years old.

The benefit of an external element is that you can get at the lime scale
easily. Potentially you could boil smaller amounts of water but I think
the large base (hence shallow water) discourages this.

Centre pin base connection but it has a sensible on/off switch which
seems to overcome the desire to save a second by lifting adopted by many
jug kettle users.


--
Tim Lamb

On 15/02/2018 18:19, dennis@home wrote:
On 15/02/2018 14:18, RJH wrote:
On 15/02/2018 13:41, wrote:
We went through this loop a few years ago. At the time, the way it
worked was to continually keep the warm "hot" (maybe not fully
boiling) and when we tasted tea from one in a shop it tasted a bit
odd (maybe it was their one but we assumed because the water was
continuously heated). Anyway after much discussion we bought one of
these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00...AZL&ref=plSrch


It boils 1 cup (approx 250ml) at a time and probably takes about 25
seconds to do so. We have a tap and hose next to it for easy filling
without moving the kettle. Descaling is the same as with a regular
kettle.


Is the dispensed water boiling though? According to the (cough) Which
report, it isn't (water in the cup 91C from a dispenser, 96C from a
kettle).


The water is forced out by steam so it must be boiling.
How do which measure it?

Maybe they got the other one that heats a bit of water at a time and
expels a steady slow stream rather than a cupful in about 3 seconds
after a 30-40 second wait.


Maybe - they're called 'hot water dispensers' - not boiling. The bestest
buy is the Breville Hot Cup VKJ142

--
Cheers, Rob

On 15/02/2018 14:23, wrote:
I can measure it tonight. I am very fussy with my tea as I find that it doesn't brew properly with water that is below boiling.

Yes - same here. Never blind tested the effect though . . .
I don't notice any difference between it and the water from the kettle.


Which model is yours? I note that they are marketed as 'hot water
dispensers' - or at least the ones I've seen and shown a passing
interest in.

--
Cheers, Rob

Harry Bloomfield wrote:

Roger Hayter brought next idea :
People usually put more water than they need in the kettle, often
because of a rather high safe minimum level.

Which are designed the way they are, to save them adding a level
indicator which goes further down the outside. When I fill a kettle, I
just do a visual inside, to ensure the element or base is well covered.
If I know there is not enough left in for a subsequent boil, I leave
the kettle off its base as a reminder.

An alternative theory is that the level device goes down as far as it
has to, and the minimum depth reduces the chance of steam bubbles
allowing destructive overheating of an area of the element. What makes
me wonder this is that I had several similar Breville ketles which had a
much lower minimum fill depth than other makes, and they used to fail as
soon as the automatic cut off failed to operate for ten seconds or so.

--

Roger Hayter

Tim Streater wrote:

In article , Dave W
wrote:

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
news
OK So she wants a quooker!
Discuss:-)

I Googled it to find out what the hell it is, and in their Terms &
Conditions it says "You may not create any links to this Website". Perhaps
they're ashamed of their prices.

Ts & Cs relating to what? Viewing the site? Purchasing their kit?

ISTM that as you've not signed anything, you can ignore them.

If that is what you think then you won't like intellectual propertly
laws, especially American-inspired ones.

--

Roger Hayter

Johnny B Good wrote:

[snipped brewing ritual]

I was amused by the beverage routine at the glass factory where I
spent a few weeks between leaving school and starting college,
coming up for 50 years ago.

From time to time during the shift somebody was sent to the
canteen with a large cardboard box, and a list of requirements
along the lines of "2 pints and 2 halves of tea, 3 pints and 2
halves of coffee".

In the canteen, which was a greasy a dive as ever I have come
across, the order was fulfilled in the following manner:

Glass bottles, this being a factory producing them, were taken
from a stack, usually squash, or pop designs, depending on what
was being made that day.

Into the first bottle went a green plastic funnel. The brew
machine tap was opened and tea run into an aged 1 pint enamel
mug. Milk and sugar were added as required, and stirred briskly
with a dessert spoon worn triangular by years of use. This was
then tipped into the funnel. Whilst the first bottle filled, the
next brew was prepared.

When it came to coffee, the hot water tap on the brew machine was
used, and the (same) spoon used to measure out a quantity of Camp
Essence (http://www.sybertooth.com/camp/) into the same mug and
thence into the funnel.

The order, when complete, was then taken back to the office in
the cardboard box.

The custom was to swig direct from the bottle, though the
fastidious could use a jam jar, as these were coming off the line
at 2 per second.

It was fine once one was used to it but, on the first few
occasions, lifting a familiar pop bottle to swig a hot brown
liquid felt really strange.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On Thu, 15 Feb 2018 11:22:41 -0800, leenowell wrote:

Hi Tim

I have run a couple of tests with the one cup kettle I mentioned. From
pressing the button to the whole cup filled was 35/ 40 seconds. In terms
of temp, the water once in the cup (will be slightly less than what came
out of the kettle) was 90 for the one cup one and 92 for the normal
kettle.


I remember snorting at a statement made in a TV documentary by the
servicing crew checking out the high tech hot water dispensers used to
brew tea and for other hot beverages on ,ISTR, a Jumbo jet regarding the
optimum temperature for brewing tea being precisely set at 87 deg C. It
was obvious to me that this temperature wasn't chosen to optimise tea
brewing but was simply due to the boiling point of water at a cabin
pressure corresponding to an elevation of 10 or 12 thousand feet ASL. Oh,
how I snorted! :-)

Even if that disingenuous 'fact' was actually true, boiling water poured
straight into even a pre-warmed teapot swiftly drops in temperature
anyway to below 90 deg C so it makes little practical difference whether
you only heat the water to 95 deg or let it boil in most UK home
kitchens. Generally speaking you need to pour immediately the kettle has
boiled the water just to compensate for this initial rapid drop in
temperature anyway if you want consistent results.

What's more relevant is the need to avoid having the water continue to
boil whilst it is brewing the tea by putting it on a hot plate to save it
cooling down since you'll simply end up with 'stewed tea'.

--
Johnny B Good

On Thursday, 15 February 2018 18:28:48 UTC, charles wrote:
In article , dennis@home
wrote:
On 14/02/2018 17:58, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Huge was thinking very hard :
That's what I used to do, but since going induction, the hob heats the
water faster than the kettle.

I cannot really see how that can be, if the Kw rating are the same. A
kettle is as near as matters delivers 100% of the energy direct into
the water, as the element is submerged directly in contact with the
contents. An induction hob has losses, the heat is also wasted heating
the container, then the contents.

Easy, kettle typically 2kw, ring on induction hob typically 3.5kw and
above. So they are not the same kw rating.


our kettle is rated 3kW

So is mine and I don't think my hob is anywhere near 3.5KW I've only noticed it be about 2KW. Most cookers have 4 hobs that would be 14KW ! with an oven .



--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

whisky-dave wrote:

I don't think my hob is anywhere near 3.5KW I've only noticed it be
about 2KW. Most cookers have 4 hobs that would be 14KW !

I suppose that 1) there's diversity to consider and 2) don't induction
hobs have a setting where you can limit the total power to e.g. 13A if
used from a UK socket, 16A from a continental socket, 32 or 40A from a
suitable cooker radial?

On 16/02/2018 10:15, whisky-dave wrote:


So is mine and I don't think my hob is anywhere near 3.5KW I've only noticed it be about 2KW. Most cookers have 4 hobs that would be 14KW ! with an oven .


We're still dithering about a new kitchen so I know a solution is to get
a big kettle and a Miele hob with WaterBoost[1].

"Miele induction hobs with WaterBoost offer a maximum power level of up
to 5.5 kW on a 28 cm cooking zone for pans over 24 cm in diameter.
Thanks to the high power, two litres of water will boil in 2 minutes and
38 seconds."

[1] and possibly also a spouse or partner like Tim Lamb's

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

Ours is a VKJ142. When we replaced our previous one we did consider moving to the variable output volume one but then couldn't see why we would need that so bought the same one again.

On 16/02/2018 11:32, Huge wrote:


- It's getting pretty scratched. Especially since it works best with
cast iron pans, which tend to have scratchy bottoms(!) Neff say you can't
polish the scratches out, but I'm tempted to have a go at it.


Never having lived with an induction hob, may I ask if it's practicable
to use paper to protect them from cast iron pans and users[1] too idle
to lift rather than drag?


[1] 'er indoors is out so I think I'm safe

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

In message , Robin
writes
On 16/02/2018 10:15, whisky-dave wrote:

So is mine and I don't think my hob is anywhere near 3.5KW I've only
noticed it be about 2KW. Most cookers have 4 hobs that would be 14KW !
with an oven .


We're still dithering about a new kitchen so I know a solution is to
get a big kettle and a Miele hob with WaterBoost[1].

"Miele induction hobs with WaterBoost offer a maximum power level of up
to 5.5 kW on a 28 cm cooking zone for pans over 24 cm in diameter.
Thanks to the high power, two litres of water will boil in 2 minutes
and 38 seconds."

[1] and possibly also a spouse or partner like Tim Lamb's

Huh! She may be funding the kitchen but I don't remember any offers to
pay for the now not required gas supply:-(


--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Robin wrote:
"Miele induction hobs with WaterBoost offer a maximum power level of up
to 5.5 kW on a 28 cm cooking zone for pans over 24 cm in diameter.
Thanks to the high power, two litres of water will boil in 2 minutes and
38 seconds."

Being an anorak, just boiled exactly 1 litre of cold water from the cold
mains tap in my pretty old 2.2kW kettle. 2 min 30 secs.

So looks like an induction hob is wasting quite a bit of energy. Probably
heating the heavy pan needed. Which would be less of an issue when
actually cooking something for a time.

--
*Work like you don't need the money. Love like you've never been hurt.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 2/16/2018 6:32 AM, Huge wrote:

- It's getting pretty scratched. Especially since it works best with
cast iron pans, which tend to have scratchy bottoms(!) Neff say you can't
polish the scratches out, but I'm tempted to have a go at it.


When I use my lovely old well-seasoned cast iron skillets on the
induction hob, I put down a disc of baking parchment first, to prevent
scratching. It doesn't seem to affect performance, and hasn't ever scorched.

On 2/16/2018 7:13 AM, Robin wrote:

Never having lived with an induction hob, may I ask if it's practicable
to use paper to protect them from cast iron pans and users[1] too idle
to lift rather than drag?

I use a disc of baking parchment. Works well.

On 16/02/2018 13:10, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Robin wrote:
"Miele induction hobs with WaterBoost offer a maximum power level of up
to 5.5 kW on a 28 cm cooking zone for pans over 24 cm in diameter.
Thanks to the high power, two litres of water will boil in 2 minutes and
38 seconds."

Being an anorak, just boiled exactly 1 litre of cold water from the cold
mains tap in my pretty old 2.2kW kettle. 2 min 30 secs.

So looks like an induction hob is wasting quite a bit of energy. Probably
heating the heavy pan needed. Which would be less of an issue when
actually cooking something for a time.


Plastic kettles have that advantage Though we don't know the starting
temperatures of their and your water. And is your kettle a measured
2.2kW or a nominal 2.2kW? I had an old one that used a good deal more
than its nominal power when fed with our typical 240V.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

Robin wrote:

Never having lived with an induction hob, may I ask if it's practicable
to use paper to protect them from cast iron pans

Paper with 5.5kW passing through it? Is that a good idea?

On 16/02/18 14:18, Andy Burns wrote:
Robin wrote:

Never having lived with an induction hob, may I ask if it's practicable
to use paper to protect them from cast iron pans

Paper with 5.5kW passing through it?Â* Is that a good idea?

The key phrase is 'through' not 'being absorbed by'...

what happens to the paper between the windings of a very big transformer?

The square root of sweet fanny Adams



--
Those who want slavery should have the grace to name it by its proper
name. They must face the full meaning of that which they are advocating
or condoning; the full, exact, specific meaning of collectivism, of its
logical implications, of the principles upon which it is based, and of
the ultimate consequences to which these principles will lead. They must
face it, then decide whether this is what they want or not.

Ayn Rand.

In article ,
Robin wrote:
On 16/02/2018 13:10, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Robin wrote:
"Miele induction hobs with WaterBoost offer a maximum power level of
up to 5.5 kW on a 28 cm cooking zone for pans over 24 cm in diameter.
Thanks to the high power, two litres of water will boil in 2 minutes
and 38 seconds."

Being an anorak, just boiled exactly 1 litre of cold water from the
cold mains tap in my pretty old 2.2kW kettle. 2 min 30 secs.

So looks like an induction hob is wasting quite a bit of energy.
Probably heating the heavy pan needed. Which would be less of an issue
when actually cooking something for a time.


Plastic kettles have that advantage Though we don't know the starting
temperatures of their and your water. And is your kettle a measured
2.2kW or a nominal 2.2kW? I had an old one that used a good deal more
than its nominal power when fed with our typical 240V.

It's a polished stainless steel one. My water was from the mains, so
likely as cold as it ever is at this time of the year. I ran some off
before to be sure.

I've not measured the actual power consumption. But if that is wrong due
to our voltage being 240 rather than the nominal 230, is the induction hob
figure likely to be any more accurate?

--
*Be nice to your kids. They'll choose your nursing home.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.