Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Potterton Suprima (50) problems.
It started with periodic lockouts which now happen daily. It didn't
always ignite after resetting so started to do it at the spur. Even then it sometimes took a while to reset. This was accompanied by very very hot water, way though the cylinder stat was set at 50 degrees. The boiler did not respond to adjustments to the room thermostat also. I have replaced PCB (with a new one!), air pressure switch, 3-port motorised valve, room and cylinder stats. I now have daily lockouts, the water is still piping hot and the boiler now has a mind of its own. It comes on when the timer controls indicate it shouldn't and goes off when it feels like it. I was wondering if the behaviour of my boiler was/is consistent with a dodgy temperature sensor and/or overheat stat? Am I also right in thinking that if the DHW or CH are meant to be 'On' through the timer than I should have a green light (either flashing or permanent)on the boiler. Thanks in advance Dave |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Potterton Suprima (50) problems.
In message , Dave
writes It started with periodic lockouts which now happen daily. It didn't always ignite after resetting so started to do it at the spur. Even then it sometimes took a while to reset. This was accompanied by very very hot water, way though the cylinder stat was set at 50 degrees. The boiler did not respond to adjustments to the room thermostat also. I have replaced PCB (with a new one!), air pressure switch, 3-port motorised valve, room and cylinder stats. I now have daily lockouts, the water is still piping hot and the boiler now has a mind of its own. It comes on when the timer controls indicate it shouldn't and goes off when it feels like it. I was wondering if the behaviour of my boiler was/is consistent with a dodgy temperature sensor and/or overheat stat? Am I also right in thinking that if the DHW or CH are meant to be 'On' through the timer than I should have a green light (either flashing or permanent)on the boiler. It must be all that e-m radiation around there You probably have a defective temperature sensor or a defective new pcb. A flashing red LED in lockout generally indicates a board fault, a constant red LED, an external to board fault. There is a table in the installation manual which explains what the indicators represent -- geoff |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Potterton Suprima (50) problems.
On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 15:05:07 +0000, geoff wrote:
In message , Dave writes It started with periodic lockouts which now happen daily. It didn't always ignite after resetting so started to do it at the spur. Even then it sometimes took a while to reset. This was accompanied by very very hot water, way though the cylinder stat was set at 50 degrees. The boiler did not respond to adjustments to the room thermostat also. I have replaced PCB (with a new one!), air pressure switch, 3-port motorised valve, room and cylinder stats. I now have daily lockouts, the water is still piping hot and the boiler now has a mind of its own. It comes on when the timer controls indicate it shouldn't and goes off when it feels like it. I was wondering if the behaviour of my boiler was/is consistent with a dodgy temperature sensor and/or overheat stat? Am I also right in thinking that if the DHW or CH are meant to be 'On' through the timer than I should have a green light (either flashing or permanent)on the boiler. It must be all that e-m radiation around there You probably have a defective temperature sensor or a defective new pcb. A flashing red LED in lockout generally indicates a board fault, a constant red LED, an external to board fault. There is a table in the installation manual which explains what the indicators represent OFF the top of my head, steady green is demand+flame on, flashing green is demand+noflame. Nice to know that one of the controls managed to cut the gas eventually ?!? -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Potterton Suprima (50) problems.
"Ed Sirett" wrote in message on.co.uk...
On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 15:05:07 +0000, geoff wrote: In message , Dave writes It started with periodic lockouts which now happen daily. It didn't always ignite after resetting so started to do it at the spur. Even then it sometimes took a while to reset. This was accompanied by very very hot water, way though the cylinder stat was set at 50 degrees. The boiler did not respond to adjustments to the room thermostat also. I have replaced PCB (with a new one!), air pressure switch, 3-port motorised valve, room and cylinder stats. I now have daily lockouts, the water is still piping hot and the boiler now has a mind of its own. It comes on when the timer controls indicate it shouldn't and goes off when it feels like it. I was wondering if the behaviour of my boiler was/is consistent with a dodgy temperature sensor and/or overheat stat? Am I also right in thinking that if the DHW or CH are meant to be 'On' through the timer than I should have a green light (either flashing or permanent)on the boiler. It must be all that e-m radiation around there You probably have a defective temperature sensor or a defective new pcb. A flashing red LED in lockout generally indicates a board fault, a constant red LED, an external to board fault. There is a table in the installation manual which explains what the indicators represent OFF the top of my head, steady green is demand+flame on, flashing green is demand+noflame. Nice to know that one of the controls managed to cut the gas eventually ?!? Thanks for the replies Geoff/Ed I know this bolier has a reputation for dodgy PCB's but before the new one got fitted, a reconditioned one had been fitted a few days earlier and neither fixed the problem. I'm hopeful that the new temperature sensor will do the business. I'm under contract so they will be coming round next week to sort it out. I'm just trying, with your sound advice, to get a better understanding of how things are meant to work. I've looked at the User Guide with regard to the LED indicators and a permanent red light without any green is classed as 'Mains ON Only.' I have noticed this condition when either of the timer controls is set to 'ON,' which I believe shouldn't be the case. However, that seems consistent with the boiler coming on, and staying on, when the timer is set to off! Last night I had to switch it off at the spur when room temperature reached 29 degrees! Thanks again. Dave |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Potterton Suprima (50) problems.
In message , Dave
writes "Ed Sirett" wrote in message mon.co.uk I've looked at the User Guide with regard to the LED indicators and a permanent red light without any green is classed as 'Mains ON Only.' Maybe I should clarify - Red LED in the lockout condition I have noticed this condition when either of the timer controls is set to 'ON,' which I believe shouldn't be the case. However, that seems consistent with the boiler coming on, and staying on, when the timer is set to off! Last night I had to switch it off at the spur when room temperature reached 29 degrees! Thanks again. Dave -- geoff |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Potterton Suprima (50) problems.
In message , David Hemmings
writes On Sat, 3 Jan 2004 00:34:24 +0000, geoff wrote: In message , Dave writes "Ed Sirett" wrote in message news:pan.2003.12.31.17.18.14.940622@makewrite. demon.co.uk I've looked at the User Guide with regard to the LED indicators and a permanent red light without any green is classed as 'Mains ON Only.' Maybe I should clarify - Red LED in the lockout condition I have noticed this condition when either of the timer controls is set to 'ON,' which I believe shouldn't be the case. However, that seems consistent with the boiler coming on, and staying on, when the timer is set to off! Last night I had to switch it off at the spur when room temperature reached 29 degrees! Thanks again. Dave Am waiting for you to reopen on the 5th so i can change the pcb for my '60'. Mmm, holidays, nice ... Do you send out in advance ? Yes, Get in early, I'm sure demand will outstrip supply on Monday As currently i can keep the boiler going by periodically resetting it, which is getting even more frequent of late. Several days without heating will go down badly with the better half. Special delivery with £... insurance ok to send back pcb ? Registered shgould be OK On another note. I cannot remember if i replied a while back, but i did actually find my user manual, quite unusually it was when i was removing the old loft insulation and replacing with new that the booklet was uncovered a long way from any pipeworks that the installers fitted in the loft. Bloody mice -- geoff |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Potterton Suprima Lockout | UK diy | |||
Q for anyone with good knowledge of potterton suprima (60) | UK diy | |||
CH boiler - making droning noise - Potterton Suprima 60 | UK diy | |||
Potterton Suprima 80 | UK diy | |||
Potterton Suprima | UK diy |