The Sangamo clock/boiler switch on my central heating boiler has
failed - intermittently at first, but now seems to have stopped
permanently. I replaced this clock about 10 years ago and had trouble
then finding a the same model, but eventually tracked one down - it
wasn't cheap!. It is round bodied (3.5 inches diameter) with a
transparent dome at the front fitting onto a round bakelite case.

There are 4 wires leading to the connectors at the bottom of the clock,
marked on the controller as 'clock motor' (red & black) and 'clock
switch' (both purple).

If, as I suspect, I cannot find the same clock again would it be
straightforward using a different clock? The Sangamo clock has a manual
on/off switch for the boiler (which I need) and a 'day' dial, presumably
to have the boiler on or off at set week days only (which I don't need).

The boiler, a Glo-Worm Sunrod G50 (37 years old and still going strong!)
has a custom metal bracket with three holes to match the clock body, so
I suppose I'd have to adapt this, but if I tried another clock would
there be other problems/pitfalls?


I'd appreciate any advice.

Thanks,

John

"kerm" wrote in message
...

The Sangamo clock/boiler switch on my central heating boiler has
failed - intermittently at first, but now seems to have stopped
permanently. I replaced this clock about 10 years ago and had trouble
then finding a the same model, but eventually tracked one down - it
wasn't cheap!. It is round bodied (3.5 inches diameter) with a
transparent dome at the front fitting onto a round bakelite case.

There are 4 wires leading to the connectors at the bottom of the clock,
marked on the controller as 'clock motor' (red & black) and 'clock
switch' (both purple).

If, as I suspect, I cannot find the same clock again would it be
straightforward using a different clock? The Sangamo clock has a manual
on/off switch for the boiler (which I need) and a 'day' dial, presumably
to have the boiler on or off at set week days only (which I don't need).

Do you mean one like this? (Not me selling it)

In article ,
kerm wrote:
The boiler, a Glo-Worm Sunrod G50 (37 years old and still going strong!)
has a custom metal bracket with three holes to match the clock body, so
I suppose I'd have to adapt this, but if I tried another clock would
there be other problems/pitfalls?


I'd appreciate any advice.

You can still buy Sangamo, but expect to pay near 100 quid.

But all you really need is a simple time switch. Have a look at 'Timers'
on the TLC site - I'd say the the TC GP24 at 15.45 or the electronic
(with battery back up for mains failure) TC CP124 at 24.95 (both plus VAT)
would be fine.

www.tlc-direct.co.uk

--
*Sometimes I wake up grumpy; Other times I let him sleep.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

In article , Dave Plowman
wrote:

In article ,
kerm wrote:
The boiler, a Glo-Worm Sunrod G50 (37 years old and still going
strong!)
has a custom metal bracket with three holes to match the clock body, so
I suppose I'd have to adapt this, but if I tried another clock would
there be other problems/pitfalls?


I'd appreciate any advice.

You can still buy Sangamo, but expect to pay near 100 quid.

But all you really need is a simple time switch. Have a look at 'Timers'
on the TLC site - I'd say the the TC GP24 at 15.45 or the electronic
(with battery back up for mains failure) TC CP124 at 24.95 (both plus
VAT)
would be fine.

www.tlc-direct.co.uk


Thanks - but will it be simple to wire in? I've been told that if I use
a different clock it would need rewiring.

Thanks,

John

In article , "TimM"
wrote:

"kerm" wrote in message
...

The Sangamo clock/boiler switch on my central heating boiler has
failed - intermittently at first, but now seems to have stopped
permanently. I replaced this clock about 10 years ago and had trouble
then finding a the same model, but eventually tracked one down - it
wasn't cheap!. It is round bodied (3.5 inches diameter) with a
transparent dome at the front fitting onto a round bakelite case.

There are 4 wires leading to the connectors at the bottom of the
clock,
marked on the controller as 'clock motor' (red & black) and 'clock
switch' (both purple).

If, as I suspect, I cannot find the same clock again would it be
straightforward using a different clock? The Sangamo clock has a manual
on/off switch for the boiler (which I need) and a 'day' dial,
presumably
to have the boiler on or off at set week days only (which I don't
need).

Do you mean one like this? (Not me selling it)



?? - no link posted??

John

Thanks - but will it be simple to wire in? I've been told that if
I use a different clock it would need rewiring.

It sounds like you have very simple wiring as it is.

I bet you have one permanent power cable (the red/black motor one) and one
switch cable (purple switch one).

Almost time clock with "volt-free" contacts should be simple to wire up.
Connect the purple wires to COM and NO. Connect the red wire to L(ive) and
the black wire to N(eutral). (Unless the old one is a low voltage thing, but
I doubt it in on a 37 year old boiler).

Christian.

It is ok to use a different type timer. You will have no problem
getting one from a good heating / plumbing supply shop.
I recommend you get a "mechanical" type timer as opposed to a "digital
/ electronic" type as you have to remember the setting steps when you
want to adjust them. Also you will need to decide if you want a 24
hour or 7 day timer.
Hope this helps --- Pat E

In article ,
kerm wrote:
Thanks - but will it be simple to wire in? I've been told that if I use
a different clock it would need rewiring.

The only reason I can think of is that the boiler connection is low
voltage. I'm not sure whether either of the switches I mentioned have
separate switch contacts or have a link which can be removed to provide
this.

--
*Why don't sheep shrink when it rains?

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

In article ,
"Christian McArdle" wrote:

Thanks - but will it be simple to wire in? I've been told that if
I use a different clock it would need rewiring.

It sounds like you have very simple wiring as it is.

I bet you have one permanent power cable (the red/black motor one) and
one
switch cable (purple switch one).

Almost time clock with "volt-free" contacts should be simple to wire up.
Connect the purple wires to COM and NO. Connect the red wire to L(ive)
and
the black wire to N(eutral). (Unless the old one is a low voltage thing,
but
I doubt it in on a 37 year old boiler).

Christian.


Thanks everyone for the advice.

I got the Trac TC GP24 (voltage free contacts) but it does't work.

The wiring connection instructions state:

"1. Live output to appliance

2. Make link to switch 240v AC ONLY

NB terminal 2

Should you wish to switch other than 240v AC do not use link to
terminals 2 and 3. Feed the required switching voltage to terminal 2 and
output from terminal 1

3. Live from mains (link shown to 2 - I linked these)

4. Neutral from mains and neutral output to appliance"



Assuming I was switching 240v AC I connected the two purple 'clock
switch' wires to terminals 1 and 4, the red 'clock motor' wire to
terminal 3 and the black 'clock motor' wire to terminal 4 and inserted a
link between 2 and 3.

When I reconnect to the mains with the timer turned to 'permanently on'
I can hear a click from the timer but the boiler does not come on. I
replaced the old Sangamo switch to check this still worked on manual and
it does (so no other damage done!).

Any ideas what I've done wrong?

John

Assuming I was switching 240v AC I connected the two purple
'clock switch' wires to terminals 1 and 4, the red 'clock
motor' wire to terminal 3 and the black 'clock motor' wire
to terminal 4 and inserted a link between 2 and 3.

You are lucky you didn't blow the thing up.

As I said, the red/black wire is L/N and the purple wires are for the
contacts. Don't go connecting the purple wires to mains willy nilly. To do
so makes assumptions about how the switching works. They could have been low
voltage.

Use:

1. Purple
2. Purple
3. Red
4. Black

And whatever you do, remove the link between 2 and 3.

Christian.

In article ,
"Christian McArdle" wrote:

Assuming I was switching 240v AC I connected the two purple
'clock switch' wires to terminals 1 and 4, the red 'clock
motor' wire to terminal 3 and the black 'clock motor' wire
to terminal 4 and inserted a link between 2 and 3.

You are lucky you didn't blow the thing up.

As I said, the red/black wire is L/N and the purple wires are for the
contacts. Don't go connecting the purple wires to mains willy nilly. To
do
so makes assumptions about how the switching works. They could have been
low
voltage.

Use:

1. Purple
2. Purple
3. Red
4. Black

And whatever you do, remove the link between 2 and 3.

Christian.





Now rewired and working fine - many thanks!

John