On Saturday, 11 June 2016 20:30:44 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
Jonathan wrote
tabbypurr wrote

Next job is to chop the main limb into usable wood. I'm
thinking of rigging a frame so the saw works like a chopsaw.

Sounds absolutely lethal to me.

Dont see why it should be lethal.

But given that none of the pros use chainsaws
like that, not clear how well it would work either.

Usually sawmills use saws with narrower kerf for obvious reasons, but the cost of a massive circular saw isn't realistic here.

With a normal chainsaw you use the spikes on the
front of the saw body to dig into the wood and provide
a leaver that allows you to sort of leaver the bar into the
wood to put more pressure on the chain so it cuts better.
Can't see how that could work with a chainsaw rigged
up to work like a chopsaw.

If there's one thing a chainsaw doesn't need it's pressure. Rodiot strikes again.


NT

wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Jonathan wrote
tabbypurr wrote

Next job is to chop the main limb into usable wood. I'm
thinking of rigging a frame so the saw works like a chopsaw.

Sounds absolutely lethal to me.

Dont see why it should be lethal.

But given that none of the pros use chainsaws
like that, not clear how well it would work either.

Usually sawmills use saws with narrower kerf for obvious reasons,
but the cost of a massive circular saw isn't realistic here.

True and it isnt even clear if they are viable to hire either.

With a normal chainsaw you use the spikes on the
front of the saw body to dig into the wood and provide
a leaver that allows you to sort of leaver the bar into the
wood to put more pressure on the chain so it cuts better.
Can't see how that could work with a chainsaw rigged
up to work like a chopsaw.

If there's one thing a chainsaw doesn't need it's pressure.

Must explain why any decent chainsaw has those teeth/spikes.

On Sunday, 12 June 2016 00:23:27 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Jonathan wrote
tabbypurr wrote

Next job is to chop the main limb into usable wood. I'm
thinking of rigging a frame so the saw works like a chopsaw.

Sounds absolutely lethal to me.

Dont see why it should be lethal.

But given that none of the pros use chainsaws
like that, not clear how well it would work either.

Usually sawmills use saws with narrower kerf for obvious reasons,
but the cost of a massive circular saw isn't realistic here.

True and it isnt even clear if they are viable to hire either.

Nothing is viable to hire. If you'd done any diy in the last 30 years you'd know that.

With a normal chainsaw you use the spikes on the
front of the saw body to dig into the wood and provide
a leaver that allows you to sort of leaver the bar into the
wood to put more pressure on the chain so it cuts better.
Can't see how that could work with a chainsaw rigged
up to work like a chopsaw.

If there's one thing a chainsaw doesn't need it's pressure.

Must explain why any decent chainsaw has those teeth/spikes.

I see you don't understand why chainsaws have those. What's new.


NT

wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 12 June 2016 00:23:27 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Jonathan wrote
tabbypurr wrote

Next job is to chop the main limb into usable wood. I'm
thinking of rigging a frame so the saw works like a chopsaw.

Sounds absolutely lethal to me.

Dont see why it should be lethal.

But given that none of the pros use chainsaws
like that, not clear how well it would work either.

Usually sawmills use saws with narrower kerf for obvious reasons,
but the cost of a massive circular saw isn't realistic here.

True and it isnt even clear if they are viable to hire either.

Nothing is viable to hire.

BULL****. I hired all of a road grader to do the site for the house,
a ****ing great forklift used to move full shipping containers down
the railway yards to put the swamp cooler on the roof, and what we
call a front end loader and you lot call something else to move the
dirt back to the house so that it looks like the house is set into the
ground, but it isnt.

With a normal chainsaw you use the spikes on the
front of the saw body to dig into the wood and provide
a leaver that allows you to sort of leaver the bar into the
wood to put more pressure on the chain so it cuts better.
Can't see how that could work with a chainsaw rigged
up to work like a chopsaw.

If there's one thing a chainsaw doesn't need it's pressure.

Must explain why any decent chainsaw has those teeth/spikes.

I see you don't understand why chainsaws have those.

You clearly dont have a ****ing clue, as always.

On Sunday, 12 June 2016 10:43:49 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 12 June 2016 00:23:27 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote

Usually sawmills use saws with narrower kerf for obvious reasons,
but the cost of a massive circular saw isn't realistic here.

True and it isnt even clear if they are viable to hire either.

Nothing is viable to hire.

BULL****. I hired all of a road grader to do the site for the house,
a ****ing great forklift used to move full shipping containers down
the railway yards to put the swamp cooler on the roof, and what we
call a front end loader and you lot call something else to move the
dirt back to the house so that it looks like the house is set into the
ground, but it isnt.

40 years ago!

With a normal chainsaw you use the spikes on the
front of the saw body to dig into the wood and provide
a leaver that allows you to sort of leaver the bar into the
wood to put more pressure on the chain so it cuts better.
Can't see how that could work with a chainsaw rigged
up to work like a chopsaw.

If there's one thing a chainsaw doesn't need it's pressure.

Must explain why any decent chainsaw has those teeth/spikes.

I see you don't understand why chainsaws have those.

You clearly dont have a ****ing clue, as always.

that's about the best guarantee that I'm right there is on this newsgroup. Other than using one, which I used to long ago.


NT

wrote in message
...

2 chains at £15 each is £30. The saw is only £50. So to break even there would need to
be a 60%
chance of the original chain killing it.

I'm still undecided whether to go Titan or something 2-3 x the price.

As you like sharpening things and could probably get the time down with practice,
unless you're super-fit, providing you had 2 sharp chains before the start of a
job I can't see you outlasting the saw - over a day's sawing at least.

Maybe after 20 or 30 such days the saw may give up, but you'll
have had your money's worth by then.

Someone on here mentioned plastic gears and I don't know whether
they were serious or not. But other than that for ocasional use
with a sharp chain* its difficult to see what's to be gained by spending a lot.

All the thing is, is an electric motor, driving a wheel which engages the chain
which runs around the arm. That and the braking mechanisms. By the very
nature of chainsaws its difficult to see why anyone would need to run one
continuously for over a minute say. Except up a tree lopping small stuff
obviouisly, but that's not we're talking about here.

*Regardless of technicalities, its easy enough to recognise a blunt chain
when you try to use one. The bugger simply won't cut - even when fitted the
right way around.


michael adams

...

"Jonathan" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 10:52:38 AM UTC+1, wrote:
On Friday, 10 June 2016 10:02:43 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
Next job is to chop the main limb into usable wood. I'm thinking of rigging a frame so
the saw works like a chopsaw.


Sounds absolutely lethal to me.

There are plenty of Youtube videos of such frames. Presumbly what the
OP wants to cut are bowl blanks for turning, which are a lot safer to cut;
and there are specific videos for that, as well. Providing you use the bottom
of the saw and saw downwards the worst that can happen is a log
shooting backwards towards you* as the saw will go forwards away
from you if it snags. That's assuming the handle is at this end
not having actually watched any of the videos.

Bucking spikes as are fitted on forestry type saws would prevent this
and are a way of securing the work but I assume aren't necessary here.

michael adams

....

On 13/06/2016 15:35, michael adams wrote:
wrote in message
...

2 chains at £15 each is £30. The saw is only £50. So to break even there would need to
be a 60%
chance of the original chain killing it.

I'm still undecided whether to go Titan or something 2-3 x the price.

As you like sharpening things and could probably get the time down with practice,
unless you're super-fit, providing you had 2 sharp chains before the start of a
job I can't see you outlasting the saw - over a day's sawing at least.

Maybe after 20 or 30 such days the saw may give up, but you'll
have had your money's worth by then.

Someone on here mentioned plastic gears and I don't know whether
they were serious or not.

It was me, and I was serious - the cheap electric chainsaw died in a
couple of hours use, and on examination the problem turned out to be
melted plastic bits.

All the thing is, is an electric motor, driving a wheel which engages the chain
which runs around the arm. That and the braking mechanisms. By the very
nature of chainsaws its difficult to see why anyone would need to run one
continuously for over a minute say. Except up a tree lopping small stuff
obviouisly, but that's not we're talking about here.

The one which died was being used to chop up wood on the ground, much
like NT is proposing to do, albeit with smaller logs. The duty cycle was
far too high for the device - and I reckon NT's project will present
similar or worse.

"Clive George" wrote in message
...
..

Someone on here mentioned plastic gears and I don't know whether
they were serious or not.

It was me, and I was serious - the cheap electric chainsaw died in a couple of hours
use, and on examination the problem turned out to be melted plastic bits.

Any chance of the brand, so others can be forwarned ? And were they
actually gears ? To me this would be a straight case for SOGA
or whatever its called nowadays. Clearly unfit for purpose.
A burned out motor which maybe melted other stuff might be
diffferent.


The one which died was being used to chop up wood on the ground, much like NT is
proposing to do, albeit with smaller logs. The duty cycle was far too high for the
device - and I reckon NT's project will present similar or worse.

It was clearly unsuitable for continuous use. But what sort
of duty cycle were you subjecting it to, in sawing up small
logs ?

I use a cheapo tesco blender - basically a stick blender with
a closed bowl - to grind peanuts for garden wildlife. But
I only use it in ten second bursts with 20 second breaks
in between as it starts to smell after that. I can easily grind
1kg in a couple of minutes. I've been using the same blender for
years now (As is always the case when you buy one or two spares.)
With a chainsaw I've never had occasion to use for say more
than 30 seconds bursts. On the ground I regularly stop to secure
the work, while in a tree I regularly need to change the angle
of the cut and reassess how things are going. And its safer
off than on.

This would probably be one of the advantages of petrol chainsaws
however. No worries about continuous use.


michael adams

....

On Monday, 13 June 2016 15:35:41 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...

2 chains at £15 each is £30. The saw is only £50. So to break even there would need to
be a 60%
chance of the original chain killing it.

I'm still undecided whether to go Titan or something 2-3 x the price.

As you like sharpening things and could probably get the time down with practice,
unless you're super-fit, providing you had 2 sharp chains before the start of a
job I can't see you outlasting the saw - over a day's sawing at least.

Will 1 chain blunt in under a day? I don't remember them being that bad


Maybe after 20 or 30 such days the saw may give up, but you'll
have had your money's worth by then.

Someone on here mentioned plastic gears and I don't know whether
they were serious or not. But other than that for ocasional use
with a sharp chain* its difficult to see what's to be gained by spending a lot.

Most cheap power tools have plastic gears.


NT

On Tue, 14 Jun 2016 02:19:33 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:

As you like sharpening things and could probably get the time down with
practice,
unless you're super-fit, providing you had 2 sharp chains before the
start of a job I can't see you outlasting the saw - over a day's sawing
at least.

Will 1 chain blunt in under a day? I don't remember them being that bad

When I was on my chainsaw course last year, the instructor's strong
advice was to just give the chain a quick tickle with the file every time
you stopped for a break or to refuel.

That way, it's always sharp - so safer - and you never need to give it a
big re-sharpen, which is what causes the teeth to go out of shape,
shortening the life.

wrote in message
...
On Monday, 13 June 2016 15:35:41 UTC+1, michael adams wrote:

Will 1 chain blunt in under a day? I don't remember them being that bad

No you're probably right. Basically I suffer from delusions and I only post
on here so as to allow experts such as yourself to put me right.

Not forgetting this shapening expertise of yours, which means chains in
your hands probably last months at a time. Even ones made out of cheese.


Most cheap power tools have plastic gears.

Well there's my delusions kicking in again. As all the electric chainsaws I've ever
come across don't actually have any gears. The wheel which drives the chain is
in direct line with the spindle of the motor.


michael adams

....