I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.


NT

wrote

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for Makitas.

What should I look for?

Really depends on what you plan to use it for and what you might use it for.

When used for pruning when up a ladder, there is a lot be said for
an electric one IMO, essentially because motorised chainsaws can
be a pain in the arse to start while up a ladder if they stall unless
they are easy to start by sort of flinging it away from you. Not a
very good description but can't think of a better way to describe it.

Electric chainsaws are also a lot less hassle maintenance
wise, but are pretty useless if you mostly use them away
from home to cut firewood for burning etc.

Are Titans good enough for occasional jobs?
It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.

Sounds like you mostly want to use it for cutting down trees.

On 06/06/16 22:15, wrote:
I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.


NT

Stihl. Or a Stihl. And Stihls are good, too.



--
"In our post-modern world, climate science is not powerful because it is
true: it is true because it is powerful."

Lucas Bergkamp

On 06/06/2016 22:15, wrote:
I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.


NT

The electric chainsaws sold by Lidl and Aldi are perfectly good for
occasional use by non-professionals.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 06/06/2016 22:15, wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while climbing?




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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Rod Speed wrote:
wrote

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for Makitas.

What should I look for?

Really depends on what you plan to use it for and what you might use it for.

When used for pruning when up a ladder, there is a lot be said for
an electric one IMO, essentially because motorised chainsaws can
be a pain in the arse to start while up a ladder if they stall unless

You shouldn't use a chainsaw up a ladder unless you've done some
training.

they are easy to start by sort of flinging it away from you. Not a
very good description but can't think of a better way to describe it.

Electric chainsaws are also a lot less hassle maintenance
wise, but are pretty useless if you mostly use them away
from home to cut firewood for burning etc.

I agree about electric. I have a Makita electric one and it's
excellent.

--
Chris Green
·

Roger Mills wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, wrote:
I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.


NT

The electric chainsaws sold by Lidl and Aldi are perfectly good for
occasional use by non-professionals.
But beware that sometimes the Lidl chains are non standard in terms
of nuber of links. Mine has x + 1/2 links which is a real pain when
making up a new chain.

On Mon, 06 Jun 2016 23:12:36 +0100, Roger Mills
wrote:

On 06/06/2016 22:15, wrote:
I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.


NT

The electric chainsaws sold by Lidl and Aldi are perfectly good for
occasional use by non-professionals.

Daughter does a bit of chainsaw carving:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5772409/Carving.jpg

and at one Arb show where she was asked to put on some form carving
demo they weren't allowed to run petrol powered saws. ;-(

They were allowed to run generators (go figure) so used a £29 electric
saw I'd picked up on special from B&Q to do some basic stuff and
whilst she said it worked, it wasn't like her little Stihl 171.

But to be fair, carving is a fairly specialised role.

IOO, there seems to be as much rivalry between the Husqvarna and Stihl
owners as there is Ford and Vauxhall etc. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 08:42:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, tabbypurr wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while climbing?

Electric. Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work. I'm also looking at making a frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively accurately. Looking to make lots of small pieces that will end up on show hence not ripping off edges would be of value, if such is possible with a chainsaw.


NT

On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 02:20:21 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

snip

I'm also looking at making a frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively accurately.

For one of those wooden cross section fire surrounds / wall panels?

http://img2.etsystatic.com/007/0/696...32906_cb6m.jpg

Looking to make lots of small pieces that will end up on show hence not ripping off edges would be of value, if such is possible with a chainsaw.

I think that may depend (as with any saw cut) if you can support the
wood as you cut though, although with a sharp enough blade it may cut
it fast enough not to tear the last bit.

Cheers, T i m

On Monday, June 6, 2016 at 10:39:44 PM UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/06/16 22:15, wrote:
I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.


NT

Stihl. Or a Stihl. And Stihls are good, too.


Not in my experience
Jonathan

On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:20:23 AM UTC+1, wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 08:42:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, tabbypurr wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while climbing?

Electric. Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work. I'm also looking at making a frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively accurately.

My safety training told us that was very dangerous with a chain saw.

Jonathan

On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 04:22:50 -0700 (PDT), Jonathan
wrote:

On Monday, June 6, 2016 at 10:39:44 PM UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/06/16 22:15, wrote:
I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.


NT

Stihl. Or a Stihl. And Stihls are good, too.


Not in my experience

OOI, how many Stihl saws do you have experience with (genuine /
straight question)?

I ask because it seems that nearly all the tree surgeons and utility
Co's use them and I'm assuming they wouldn't if they weren't up to it?

On that and like many such things I believe there are 'Domestic' and
'Professional' spec versions.

Daughter prefers Stihl stuff although she does have other brands where
they turn out to be good / reliable. I'm not sure she would go for
anything else. At one point she was often using a saw, hedge trimmer,
blower or strimmer all day long and some of these tools had a pretty
hard life (all Stihl).

The 'good thing' about going for something like Stihl is that they are
well known and easy to get parts and support for (should it be
required), especially over an unknown or more 'domestic' product.

Cheers, T i m

On 06/06/2016 22:39, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/06/16 22:15, wrote:
I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for occasional
jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.


NT

Stihl. Or a Stihl. And Stihls are good, too.


Stihl used to be the leading brand in the USA before WW2.

It took them some time to recover the position after the war.
So I learnt in a chainsaw museum in Prince Rupert, BC.

--
Michael Chare

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On 07/06/2016 12:24, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:20:23 AM UTC+1, wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 08:42:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, tabbypurr wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while climbing?

Electric. Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work. I'm also looking at making a frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively accurately.

My safety training told us that was very dangerous with a chain saw.

Jonathan


Which, using saw whilst up a tree or using saw with a frame to hold wood?


--
Michael Chare

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 12:58:08 PM UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 04:22:50 -0700 (PDT), Jonathan
wrote:

On Monday, June 6, 2016 at 10:39:44 PM UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/06/16 22:15, wrote:
I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.


NT

Stihl. Or a Stihl. And Stihls are good, too.


Not in my experience

OOI, how many Stihl saws do you have experience with (genuine /
straight question)?

I ask because it seems that nearly all the tree surgeons and utility
Co's use them and I'm assuming they wouldn't if they weren't up to it?

On that and like many such things I believe there are 'Domestic' and
'Professional' spec versions.

Daughter prefers Stihl stuff although she does have other brands where
they turn out to be good / reliable. I'm not sure she would go for
anything else. At one point she was often using a saw, hedge trimmer,
blower or strimmer all day long and some of these tools had a pretty
hard life (all Stihl).

The 'good thing' about going for something like Stihl is that they are
well known and easy to get parts and support for (should it be
required), especially over an unknown or more 'domestic' product.

Cheers, T i m

I had one for a few years until the engine failed. The place I had bought is six years previously had gone out of business so I went elsewhere who sold me a saw which lasted over 15 years of fairly heavy winter usage until the plastic failed body parts failed catastrophically. They then sold me an Efco.

They said the Stihl had died because I believed Stihl that their brand of two-stroke oil only needed to be used at 50:1 instead of 25:1.

So I won't buy another one.

Jonathan

On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 3:50:01 PM UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
On 07/06/2016 12:24, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:20:23 AM UTC+1, wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 08:42:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, tabbypurr wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while climbing?

Electric. Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work. I'm also looking at making a frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively accurately.

My safety training told us that was very dangerous with a chain saw.

Jonathan


Which, using saw whilst up a tree or using saw with a frame to hold wood?

Using a frame to hold wood. There is a tendancy for the saw to catch and spin the log dangerously. Much safer to sut it on the ground, if worse for your back.

jonathan

On 07/06/2016 16:25, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 3:50:01 PM UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
On 07/06/2016 12:24, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:20:23 AM UTC+1, wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 08:42:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, tabbypurr wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while climbing?

Electric. Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work. I'm also looking at making a frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively accurately.

My safety training told us that was very dangerous with a chain saw.

Jonathan


Which, using saw whilst up a tree or using saw with a frame to hold wood?

Using a frame to hold wood. Therne is a tendancy for the saw to catch and spin the log dangerously. Much safer to sut it on the ground, if worse for your back.

not to mention damaging the chain by catching it on the ground. (Thank
you)


--
Michael Chare

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This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 16:25:41 UTC+1, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 3:50:01 PM UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
On 07/06/2016 12:24, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:20:23 AM UTC+1, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 08:42:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, tabbypurr wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while climbing?

Electric. Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work. I'm also looking at making a frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively accurately.

My safety training told us that was very dangerous with a chain saw.

Jonathan


Which, using saw whilst up a tree or using saw with a frame to hold wood?

Using a frame to hold wood. There is a tendancy for the saw to catch and spin the log dangerously. Much safer to sut it on the ground, if worse for your back.

jonathan

There's misunderstanding somewhere in all this. Nothing is going to spin tree trunks any day soon, no matter how much it tries. It's the saw that will be put in a frame to operate like a chop saw. The trunks will be on the ground at all time - or maybe a couple of inches off it. The resulting restraint of the saw must make it much safer I'd think.

I guess what I'm asking at this point is whether we'll run into trouble doing this with a £50 Titan. I expect it's what we'll get for now. It might do a day or 2 of chopping once a month.


NT

On 07/06/2016 17:19, wrote:

I guess what I'm asking at this point is whether we'll run into trouble doing this with a £50 Titan. I expect it's what we'll get for now. It might do a day or 2 of chopping once a month.

A cheap electric chainsaw owned by a friend died when it was used for
too long - the plastic gears got a bit soft.

On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 08:24:26 -0700 (PDT), Jonathan
wrote:
snip

OOI, how many Stihl saws do you have experience with (genuine /
straight question)?

I ask because it seems that nearly all the tree surgeons and utility
Co's use them and I'm assuming they wouldn't if they weren't up to it?

snip

I had one for a few years until the engine failed. The place I had bought is six years previously had gone out of business so I went elsewhere who sold me a saw which lasted over 15 years of fairly heavy winter usage until the plastic failed body parts failed catastrophically.

Ok. I'm guessing nothing lasts for ever, even the universe. Was the
other saw a 'Husky' by any chance (as I understand that is one of the
failure modes of the smaller saws).

They then sold me an Efco.

Do you have a dealer for them locally?

They said the Stihl had died because I believed Stihl that their brand of two-stroke oil only needed to be used at 50:1 instead of 25:1.

I'm not sure about the Stihl brand oil thing but using it at 25:1
could easily be a reason it died.

So I won't buy another one.

But there is a possibility you killed it [1] ... or do you have a
tanker full of 25:1 2/ you want to use up? ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[1] I think that if you run an over-rich 2/ mix it ends up running
lean, not a good thing, especially on a small 2/. ;-(

"Jonathan" wrote in message news:2bedeaad-9dce-41c2-

They said the Stihl had died because I believed Stihl that their brand of
two-stroke oil only needed to be used at 50:1 instead of 25:1.
So I won't buy another one.

Don’t blame Stihl,
Directive 2002/88/EC of the European Parliament, emission of gaseous and
particulate pollutants from internal combustion engines to be installed in
non-road mobile machinery

-

"T i m" wrote in message
But there is a possibility you killed it [1] ... or do you have a
tanker full of 25:1 2/ you want to use up? ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[1] I think that if you run an over-rich 2/ mix it ends up running
lean, not a good thing, especially on a small 2/. ;-(

Oh another one repeating that OWT
http://www.stihl.com.au/mixing-2-stroke-fuel.aspx
Using a different brand of 2-Stroke oil
You’ll need to mix at 25:1 (40mls oil per 1 litre fuel)

Oh But I have read on the internet that will make it run lean and kill it !


-

On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 18:08:47 +0100, "Mark" wrote:


"T i m" wrote in message
But there is a possibility you killed it [1] ... or do you have a
tanker full of 25:1 2/ you want to use up? ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[1] I think that if you run an over-rich 2/ mix it ends up running
lean, not a good thing, especially on a small 2/. ;-(

Oh another one repeating that OWT
http://www.stihl.com.au/mixing-2-stroke-fuel.aspx
Using a different brand of 2-Stroke oil
You’ll need to mix at 25:1 (40mls oil per 1 litre fuel)

Fair enough (for Stihl and different brands of oil).

Oh But I have read on the internet that will make it run lean and kill it !

Nope, I 'heard it' long before the Internet and after seizing up a 2/
moped whilst running it on an over oiled 2/ mix (thinking I was giving
the engine an easier time).

Could have been complete coincidence of course but it seems worthy of
consideration that for any given volume of fuel including a given
volume of lubricating oil, that the more oil the fuel contains the
more viscose the fuel becomes, and dilute (because of the oil) and so
the potential of getting less fuel per volume of air and so to
'running lean'. shrug

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tec...ity-54169.html

" A typical example: you go from a 50:1 ratio to a 20:1 ratio. Your
engine will now run leaner, and you’ll have to make jetting changes."



Cheers, T i m

"Mark" wrote in message ...

"Jonathan" wrote in message news:2bedeaad-9dce-41c2-

They said the Stihl had died because I believed Stihl that their brand of two-stroke
oil only needed to be used at 50:1 instead of 25:1.
So I won't buy another one.

Don’t blame Stihl,
Directive 2002/88/EC of the European Parliament, emission of gaseous and particulate
pollutants from internal combustion engines to be installed in non-road mobile
machinery

I think you'll find the US EPA got there first.

You can try looking it up if you don't believe me.

Although like yourself and all right thinking Englishman
I can't see what right any Johnny Foreigners has of
depriving our kids and grandchildren of their fair share
of good old fashioned pollution from the mowers and
strimmers which are often buzzing away when they go
to the park.


max

On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 09:19:45 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 16:25:41 UTC+1, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 3:50:01 PM UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
On 07/06/2016 12:24, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:20:23 AM UTC+1, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 08:42:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, tabbypurr wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while climbing?

Electric. Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work. I'm also looking at making a frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively accurately.

My safety training told us that was very dangerous with a chain saw.

Jonathan


Which, using saw whilst up a tree or using saw with a frame to hold wood?

Using a frame to hold wood. There is a tendancy for the saw to catch and spin the log dangerously. Much safer to sut it on the ground, if worse for your back.

jonathan

There's misunderstanding somewhere in all this. Nothing is going to spin tree trunks any day soon, no matter how much it tries.

I'm not sure you mentioned the size of wood being cut before now?

It's the saw that will be put in a frame to operate like a chop saw.

So not the way you might normally cut though 'a trunk' using the
bumper spikes / dogs as a lever?

The trunks will be on the ground at all time - or maybe a couple of inches off it. The resulting restraint of the saw must make it much safer I'd think.

If the trunks were in a 'V' or up against something in your frame that
might resist the more cylindrical ones rolling back then it might work
(to be safer than a hand held saw doing the same).

I guess what I'm asking at this point is whether we'll run into trouble doing this with a £50 Titan. I expect it's what we'll get for now. It might do a day or 2 of chopping once a month.

As long as you aren't putting any extra strain on the cheaper saw
(that a more 'industrial saw might deal with better) then no, I can't
see any reason why it wouldn't do what you want, especially if the
'day or two's worth aren't 8 hours continuous use (as the cheaper saws
might not be rated for that (as has been mentioned elsewhere)).

Cheers, T i m

On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 19:09:57 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 09:19:45 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 16:25:41 UTC+1, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 3:50:01 PM UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
On 07/06/2016 12:24, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:20:23 AM UTC+1, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 08:42:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, tabbypurr wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while climbing?

Electric. Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work. I'm also looking at making a frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively accurately.

My safety training told us that was very dangerous with a chain saw.

Jonathan


Which, using saw whilst up a tree or using saw with a frame to hold wood?

Using a frame to hold wood. There is a tendancy for the saw to catch and spin the log dangerously. Much safer to sut it on the ground, if worse for your back.

jonathan

There's misunderstanding somewhere in all this. Nothing is going to spin tree trunks any day soon, no matter how much it tries.

I'm not sure you mentioned the size of wood being cut before now?

The first one is a couple of tonnes. Others will be all sorts of sizes, mostly smaller.

It's the saw that will be put in a frame to operate like a chop saw.

So not the way you might normally cut though 'a trunk' using the
bumper spikes / dogs as a lever?

The trunks will be on the ground at all time - or maybe a couple of inches off it. The resulting restraint of the saw must make it much safer I'd think.

If the trunks were in a 'V' or up against something in your frame that
might resist the more cylindrical ones rolling back then it might work
(to be safer than a hand held saw doing the same).

they can't roll back.

I guess what I'm asking at this point is whether we'll run into trouble doing this with a £50 Titan. I expect it's what we'll get for now. It might do a day or 2 of chopping once a month.

As long as you aren't putting any extra strain on the cheaper saw
(that a more 'industrial saw might deal with better) then no, I can't
see any reason why it wouldn't do what you want, especially if the
'day or two's worth aren't 8 hours continuous use (as the cheaper saws
might not be rated for that (as has been mentioned elsewhere)).

Well, it will be 8 hours straight, less a lunch break. Maybe a cheap Titan won't be upto that then.


NT

On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 11:33:26 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

snip

I'm not sure you mentioned the size of wood being cut before now?

The first one is a couple of tonnes.

So not the full timber lorry and trailer daughters ex ordered
specifically to turn into firewood then? ;-)

Others will be all sorts of sizes, mostly smaller.

Ok. Unless also held or held down, the small bits tend to jump about a
bit.

snip

If the trunks were in a 'V' or up against something in your frame that
might resist the more cylindrical ones rolling back then it might work
(to be safer than a hand held saw doing the same).

they can't roll back.

Or roll (spin), I've seen both happen. You obviously know your idea
for this frame so ...

I guess what I'm asking at this point is whether we'll run into trouble doing this with a £50 Titan. I expect it's what we'll get for now. It might do a day or 2 of chopping once a month.

As long as you aren't putting any extra strain on the cheaper saw
(that a more 'industrial saw might deal with better) then no, I can't
see any reason why it wouldn't do what you want, especially if the
'day or two's worth aren't 8 hours continuous use (as the cheaper saws
might not be rated for that (as has been mentioned elsewhere)).

Well, it will be 8 hours straight, less a lunch break. Maybe a cheap Titan won't be upto that then.

I don't think anything 'new / cheap' will have a duty cycle up to that
sort of use, especially electric with motors not rated for 'continuous
use'. ;-(

That said, I can't see any mention of how it should be used but I
might have missed it (re continuous use / use duration, it covers
everything else though!). ;-)

http://www.free-instruction-manuals..../pa_597577.pdf

Cheers, T i m

Chris Green wrote
Rod Speed wrote
wrote

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas.

What should I look for?

Really depends on what you plan to use it for and what you might use it
for.

When used for pruning when up a ladder, there is a lot be said for
an electric one IMO, essentially because motorised chainsaws can
be a pain in the arse to start while up a ladder if they stall unless

You shouldn't use a chainsaw up a ladder unless you've done some training.

Depends on what you are doing with the chain saw.
Its fine when doing some pruning that way.

they are easy to start by sort of flinging it away from you. Not a
very good description but can't think of a better way to describe it.

Electric chainsaws are also a lot less hassle maintenance
wise, but are pretty useless if you mostly use them away
from home to cut firewood for burning etc.

I agree about electric. I have a Makita electric one and it's excellent.

On 07/06/2016 18:55, T i m wrote:
Nope, I 'heard it' long before the Internet and after seizing up a 2/
moped whilst running it on an over oiled 2/ mix (thinking I was giving
the engine an easier time).

Could have been complete coincidence of course but it seems worthy of
consideration that for any given volume of fuel including a given
volume of lubricating oil, that the more oil the fuel contains the
more viscose the fuel becomes, and dilute (because of the oil) and so
the potential of getting less fuel per volume of air and so to
'running lean'. shrug

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tec...ity-54169.html

" A typical example: you go from a 50:1 ratio to a 20:1 ratio. Your
engine will now run leaner, and you’ll have to make jetting changes."

I was thinking - bull****. You've gone from a 95% petrol mix (5% oil,
1/20th) to 98% petrol mix (2% oil, 1/50th). No way are they jetted that
accurately. But I read the article.

The crucial part is that the oil thickens the mix, so it doesn't go
through the jet as well.

Which might also indicate that re-jetting for a different _type_ of oil,
not just mix ratio, may be needed.

Andy

On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 21:20:56 +0100, Vir Campestris
wrote:

On 07/06/2016 18:55, T i m wrote:
Nope, I 'heard it' long before the Internet and after seizing up a 2/
moped whilst running it on an over oiled 2/ mix (thinking I was giving
the engine an easier time).

Could have been complete coincidence of course but it seems worthy of
consideration that for any given volume of fuel including a given
volume of lubricating oil, that the more oil the fuel contains the
more viscose the fuel becomes, and dilute (because of the oil) and so
the potential of getting less fuel per volume of air and so to
'running lean'. shrug

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tec...ity-54169.html

" A typical example: you go from a 50:1 ratio to a 20:1 ratio. Your
engine will now run leaner, and you’ll have to make jetting changes."

I was thinking - bull****. You've gone from a 95% petrol mix (5% oil,
1/20th) to 98% petrol mix (2% oil, 1/50th). No way are they jetted that
accurately. But I read the article.

;-)

The crucial part is that the oil thickens the mix, so it doesn't go
through the jet as well.

Yup, and now the fuel to air ratio goes up, the engine runs lean and
(contrary to what most might think would happen), it runs hot (lean)
and heat seizes or melts a hole in the piston etc.

Which might also indicate that re-jetting for a different _type_ of oil,
not just mix ratio, may be needed.

Yup, especially if you are looking for optimal performance and / or
reliability.

However, ITRW and when talking about 'everyday engines' you can often
get away with a lot but sometimes it can all add up. ;-(

FWIW my old British Seagull outboard motor used to run on a 10:1 fuel
/ oil mix but is was *designed* to.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. And I wonder how much of Stihl's 'recommendation' to use 25:1 if
not using their own oil might be to make the cost difference such that
people simply don't bother to use alternatives?

Do we think Stihl 2/ oil is that much better than the equivalent
competitors oil that couldn't also be used at 50:1?

Is that the original meaning of the term 'Snake Oil'?

On 07/06/2016 17:19, wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 16:25:41 UTC+1, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 3:50:01 PM UTC+1, Michael Chare wrote:
On 07/06/2016 12:24, Jonathan wrote:
On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:20:23 AM UTC+1, tabbypurr
wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 08:42:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, tabbypurr wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot
more for Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good
enough for occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16"
bar needed, or more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while
climbing?

Electric. Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground.
Inevitably it will end up being used in climbing too, but
primarily ground work. I'm also looking at making a
frame/holder for it to slice up wood relatively accurately.

My safety training told us that was very dangerous with a chain
saw.

Jonathan


Which, using saw whilst up a tree or using saw with a frame to
hold wood?

Using a frame to hold wood. There is a tendancy for the saw to
catch and spin the log dangerously. Much safer to sut it on the
ground, if worse for your back.

jonathan

There's misunderstanding somewhere in all this. Nothing is going to
spin tree trunks any day soon, no matter how much it tries. It's the
saw that will be put in a frame to operate like a chop saw. The
trunks will be on the ground at all time - or maybe a couple of
inches off it. The resulting restraint of the saw must make it much
safer I'd think.

There are plenty of "chainsaw mill" type attachments that allow you to
use one for producing accurate planks and slices etc.

I guess what I'm asking at this point is whether we'll run into
trouble doing this with a £50 Titan. I expect it's what we'll get for
now. It might do a day or 2 of chopping once a month.

You may need to get it some decent quality chains (and a set of files
for sharpening)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 07/06/2016 10:20, wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 June 2016 08:42:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/06/2016 22:15, tabbypurr wrote:

I'm after a chainsaw. They span from £50 Titan to a lot more for
Makitas. What should I look for? Are Titans good enough for
occasional jobs? It won't get used a lot. 16" bar needed, or
more.

Electric or petrol?

What jobs do you need to do with it?

Always on the ground, or working from a ladder / while climbing?

Electric. Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it
will end up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work.

Saws designed for climbing are usually small light "top handled"
designs, rather than the traditional layout with a top and rear handle.
They tend to be fairly specialist and aimed at the pro arb market. (some
dealers are also reluctant to sell them to people who can't produce the
relevant training certificate for them). I am not sure I would fancy
climbing with a normal electric saw.




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...

. I am not sure I would fancy climbing with a normal electric saw.

There's no need. As with everythng else you might need at the top of a ladder
you tie a rope around it and just take the rope(s) up with you and pull
them up afterwards. Small stuff in a bucket etc. All of which can also
have loops to hang it from branches or hooks

The beauty of small battery drills which fit in a pocket is that its possible
to screw in as many hooks as you think you might need rather
than rely on branches to hang stuff from.


michael adams

....

On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 22:39:58 +0100, "michael adams"
wrote:


"John Rumm" wrote in message
...

. I am not sure I would fancy climbing with a normal electric saw.

There's no need. As with everythng else you might need at the top of a ladder
you tie a rope around it and just take the rope(s) up with you and pull
them up afterwards. Small stuff in a bucket etc. All of which can also
have loops to hang it from branches or hooks

Not sure that was the point John was making.

If you read the manual for that type of saw:

"CHAIN SAW 2000W TTB355CHN6.
ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR CHAIN SAW.

d. Do not operate a chain saw in a tree.
Operation of a chain saw while up in a
tree may result in personal injury."

http://www.free-instruction-manuals..../pa_597577.pdf

The beauty of small battery drills which fit in a pocket is that its possible
to screw in as many hooks as you think you might need rather
than rely on branches to hang stuff from.

Not really advised to drill holes in live trees or work from a ladder
(especially if the ladder isn't roped in etc). They don't often
'spike' up a tree that they aren't going to cut down for the same
reason (risk of infection to the tree etc).

Cheers, T i m

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 22:39:58 +0100, "michael adams"
wrote:


"John Rumm" wrote in message
...

. I am not sure I would fancy climbing with a normal electric saw.

There's no need. As with everythng else you might need at the top of a ladder
you tie a rope around it and just take the rope(s) up with you and pull
them up afterwards. Small stuff in a bucket etc. All of which can also
have loops to hang it from branches or hooks

Not sure that was the point John was making.

If you read the manual for that type of saw:

"CHAIN SAW 2000W TTB355CHN6.
ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR CHAIN SAW.

d. Do not operate a chain saw in a tree.


So where was John climbing then ?




michael adams

....

"T i m" wrote in message
...
If you read the manual for that type of saw:

"CHAIN SAW 2000W TTB355CHN6.
ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR CHAIN SAW.

d. Do not operate a chain saw in a tree.
Operation of a chain saw while up in a
tree may result in personal injury."

http://www.free-instruction-manuals..../pa_597577.pdf

It also says (p 14)

" Wearing thick protective gloves, drape the chain over the
guide bar ensuring the direction(A) of travel is as marked
on the guide bar and it is fully engaged in the guide bar
sprocket.(see Fig. 6 & 7)"

As a matter of interest and just to be sure we're both
singing from the same song-sheet here, in your personal
experience do you find it necessary to wear thick
protective gloves when fitting a chain on your
chainsaw ?

Speaking only for myself if somebody can't handle a
saw chain without cutting their hands to ribbons
then they maybe shouldn't be allowed near chainsaws in
the first place. Assuming they can ever get the
thing on in the first place, wearing these "thick
protective gloves".

So what do you think ?


michael adams

....

On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 23:21:03 +0100, "michael adams"
wrote:


"T i m" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 22:39:58 +0100, "michael adams"
wrote:


"John Rumm" wrote in message
...

. I am not sure I would fancy climbing with a normal electric saw.

There's no need. As with everythng else you might need at the top of a ladder
you tie a rope around it and just take the rope(s) up with you and pull
them up afterwards. Small stuff in a bucket etc. All of which can also
have loops to hang it from branches or hooks

Not sure that was the point John was making.

If you read the manual for that type of saw:

"CHAIN SAW 2000W TTB355CHN6.
ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR CHAIN SAW.

d. Do not operate a chain saw in a tree.


So where was John climbing then ?

I'm not sure John was but he just suggested he wouldn't want to with
that type of (two handed) saw but NT (the OP) did suggested he may
have need to use it up a tree.

"Primarily for slicing stuff up on the ground. Inevitably it will end
up being used in climbing too, but primarily ground work."

Cheers, T i m

T i m wrote:

Nope, I 'heard it' long before the Internet
'running lean'. shrug

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tec...s-premix-myth-
vs-reality-54169.html

" A typical example: you go from a 50:1 ratio to a 20:1 ratio. Your
engine will now run leaner, and youÂ’ll have to make jetting changes."


but thats just another "i read it on the internet"
do you really think that Stihl one of the largest makers of 2T engines would
advise using 25:1 in place of 50:1 if it would cause damage?
The theory is fine but in real life it makes €œalmost€� no difference to the
mixture at all, I have tested this on a Dyno with a villiers starmaker
engine, cyl head temp/spark plug temp and plug colour.
2T Lubrication is marginal at the best of time
this from your link is proven fact based
and not EU eco emissions 50:1 ********

All the major manufacturers produce two-stroke racing engines in their off-
road motorcycles. Virtually all of them recommended 20:1 or 24:1 mix ratios.


3. A second test they performed was to run synthetic in two identical
engines and one was run at 24:1, the other was run at 50:1 The engine that
ran 24:1 had less piston skirt wear, and less rod bearing wear, but had the
same main roller bearing wear as the engine run at 50:1.


-

Vir Campestris wrote:

On 07/06/2016 18:55, T i m wrote:
Nope, I 'heard it' long before the Internet and after seizing up a 2/
moped whilst running it on an over oiled 2/ mix (thinking I was giving
the engine an easier time).

Could have been complete coincidence of course but it seems worthy of
consideration that for any given volume of fuel including a given
volume of lubricating oil, that the more oil the fuel contains the
more viscose the fuel becomes, and dilute (because of the oil) and so
the potential of getting less fuel per volume of air and so to
'running lean'. shrug

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tec...s-premix-myth-
vs-reality-54169.html

" A typical example: you go from a 50:1 ratio to a 20:1 ratio. Your
engine will now run leaner, and youll have to make jetting changes."

I was thinking - bull****. You've gone from a 95% petrol mix (5% oil,
1/20th) to 98% petrol mix (2% oil, 1/50th). No way are they jetted that
accurately. But I read the article.

The crucial part is that the oil thickens the mix, so it doesn't go
through the jet as well.


Andy

Viscosity difference = SFA
modern 2T oil is really very thin
dont confuse it with multigrade oil for 4 stroke engines

-