Hello,

Has anyone seen Screwfix's own brand Titan pillar drill:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb5...ill-240v/16108

It sounds quite good. It has a page and half of glowing reviews,
although the last three are very critical, so I don't know which to
believe.

I thought I read here that 500W induction motors were recommended for
an entry level pillar drill? This is 500W but it doesn't say whether
it is induction or not; does anyone know?

It says the spindle travel is only 50mm. That doesn't seem much. Is
that average for a pillar drill? Are there any better out there?

Am I right to think that the chuck to table distance is not that
relevant because you could swing the drill through 180 degrees to
drill larger items?

The remaining figure is the throat depth which is 115mm. How does this
compare to other makes? Is it restrictive? It doesn't sound much being
what, just over 4 inches.

Here is the spec copied and pasted:

500W Motor
9-Speed
16mm Keyed Chuck
0-45° Left & Right Table Tilt
Cast Iron Table
View more information

Product contents:
Pillar drill, laser combination, shield, spindle pulley, counter
wheel, magnetic switch and chuck guard.

Specifications:
W x D x H: 300 x 610 x 610mm. Table W x D: 170 x 170mm. Spindle travel
50mm. Throat depth 115mm. Chuck to table 270mm. Chuck to base 330mm.
No load speed 280-2350rpm. Weight 20kg.


Thanks,
Stephen.

In article ,
Stephen wrote:
I thought I read here that 500W induction motors were recommended for
an entry level pillar drill? This is 500W but it doesn't say whether
it is induction or not; does anyone know?

Almost certainly induction. A brush motor would run much faster and need a
gearbox - rather than the usual belt drive. And yes, 500w should be
adequate. I've not found my Lidl one lacking in power - unlike the
previous B&Q cheapie with a smaller motor.

It says the spindle travel is only 50mm. That doesn't seem much. Is
that average for a pillar drill? Are there any better out there?

Seems to be the norm for an entry level drill.

Am I right to think that the chuck to table distance is not that
relevant because you could swing the drill through 180 degrees to
drill larger items?

If you work clamped in a vice fixed to the table, that distance becomes
very important. Some are so small as to be near useless. But 270 should be
OK for most things.

--
*What do you call a dinosaur with an extensive vocabulary? A thesaurus.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Stephen wrote:
Hello,

Has anyone seen Screwfix's own brand Titan pillar drill:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb5...ill-240v/16108

It sounds quite good. It has a page and half of glowing reviews,
although the last three are very critical, so I don't know which to
believe.

I thought I read here that 500W induction motors were recommended for
an entry level pillar drill? This is 500W but it doesn't say whether
it is induction or not; does anyone know?

It says the spindle travel is only 50mm. That doesn't seem much. Is
that average for a pillar drill? Are there any better out there?

Am I right to think that the chuck to table distance is not that
relevant because you could swing the drill through 180 degrees to
drill larger items?

The remaining figure is the throat depth which is 115mm. How does this
compare to other makes? Is it restrictive? It doesn't sound much being
what, just over 4 inches.

Here is the spec copied and pasted:

500W Motor
9-Speed
16mm Keyed Chuck
0-45° Left & Right Table Tilt
Cast Iron Table
View more information

Product contents:
Pillar drill, laser combination, shield, spindle pulley, counter
wheel, magnetic switch and chuck guard.

Specifications:
W x D x H: 300 x 610 x 610mm. Table W x D: 170 x 170mm. Spindle travel
50mm. Throat depth 115mm. Chuck to table 270mm. Chuck to base 330mm.
No load speed 280-2350rpm. Weight 20kg.


Thanks,
Stephen.

Basically it is a toy drill but might suit light hobby use.
No way is 500w enough to drive a 5/8 drill through a block of steel -
but you possibly don't want that.
50mm quill travel is quite limiting and you will have to raise and lower
the table regularly in the steps of drilling from pilot drill to final
size, thus losing centre accuracy.
If you thought about the motor it could not be anything else but an
induction motor - universal motors would be far too fast to drop the
speed simply with belts.
Don't expect much from the laser in the way of accuracy.

Are there better? yes of course but you will have to pay a proper price

On Wed, 2 Dec 2015 18:56:12 +0000, Bob Minchin
wrote:

50mm quill travel is quite limiting and you will have to raise and lower
the table regularly in the steps of drilling from pilot drill to final
size, thus losing centre accuracy.

What figure do you think is a reasonable figure to look for?

If you thought about the motor it could not be anything else but an
induction motor - universal motors would be far too fast to drop the
speed simply with belts.
Don't expect much from the laser in the way of accuracy.

Are there better? yes of course but you will have to pay a proper price

What models were you thinking of (and yes, it would be for DIY use
most likely with wood rather than blocks of metal)

Thanks,
Stephen.

"Stephen" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 2 Dec 2015 18:56:12 +0000, Bob Minchin
wrote:

50mm quill travel is quite limiting and you will have to raise and lower
the table regularly in the steps of drilling from pilot drill to final
size, thus losing centre accuracy.

What figure do you think is a reasonable figure to look for?

Really depends on what you are likely to do with it. That would
be fine for anything I am likely to do with one and I don't recall
I ever used anything more than that on the much bigger and
more expensive ones I was free to use at work.

If you thought about the motor it could not be anything else but an
induction motor - universal motors would be far too fast to drop the
speed simply with belts.
Don't expect much from the laser in the way of accuracy.

Are there better? yes of course but you will have to pay a proper price

What models were you thinking of (and yes, it would be for DIY use
most likely with wood rather than blocks of metal)

Stephen wrote:
On Wed, 2 Dec 2015 18:56:12 +0000, Bob Minchin
wrote:

50mm quill travel is quite limiting and you will have to raise and lower
the table regularly in the steps of drilling from pilot drill to final
size, thus losing centre accuracy.

What figure do you think is a reasonable figure to look for?

If you thought about the motor it could not be anything else but an
induction motor - universal motors would be far too fast to drop the
speed simply with belts.
Don't expect much from the laser in the way of accuracy.

Are there better? yes of course but you will have to pay a proper price

What models were you thinking of (and yes, it would be for DIY use
most likely with wood rather than blocks of metal)

Thanks,
Stephen.

I'd be looking for maybe 75mm - the more the better.
Try looking for a used Startrite, Fobco, Meddings

eg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOBCO-STAR...AOSwcBhWVMS 5

On 02/12/2015 17:23, Stephen wrote:
Hello,

Has anyone seen Screwfix's own brand Titan pillar drill:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb5...ill-240v/16108


I have had a budget model which looks similar to this for ten years or
so. I don't disagree with Bob's comments but I've drilled holes up to 20
mm or so in 1/4 inch steel plate with it. Using the lowest speed,
lubricant, and a bit of care.

A pillar drill gives you much more accuracy than you can achieve by
hand, and having a proper vice which you can clamp to the table helps to
avoid the most common accident caused by "snatch" when drilling smaller
items held on the bench by hand.

"Spec" isn't everything, things like the quill accuracy and smoothness
come into it, but it really all depends on what you want to use it for.
If you need the accuracy, you might get much better value from a second
hand "quality" tool although you might need to replace the chuck because
of wear.

If you also have a small lathe, it is worth having a removable chuck on
a Morse taper, then you can use morse taper drills in both.

In article ,
Bob Minchin wrote:
Basically it is a toy drill but might suit light hobby use.
No way is 500w enough to drive a 5/8 drill through a block of steel -
but you possibly don't want that.

It is if you take it in steps.

I'd hardly describe it as a toy drill. Just how many ever need to drill
such a large hole in a block of steel anyway?

Of course it could be bettered. But the cost goes up dramatically for a
small gain. Economy of production scale. This sort of spec drill is the
most common by far.

--
*Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Stephen" wrote in message
...
Hello,

Has anyone seen Screwfix's own brand Titan pillar drill:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb5...ill-240v/16108

It sounds quite good. It has a page and half of glowing reviews,
although the last three are very critical, so I don't know which to
believe.

I thought I read here that 500W induction motors were recommended for
an entry level pillar drill? This is 500W but it doesn't say whether
it is induction or not; does anyone know?

It says the spindle travel is only 50mm. That doesn't seem much. Is
that average for a pillar drill? Are there any better out there?

Am I right to think that the chuck to table distance is not that
relevant because you could swing the drill through 180 degrees to
drill larger items?

The remaining figure is the throat depth which is 115mm. How does this
compare to other makes? Is it restrictive? It doesn't sound much being
what, just over 4 inches.

Here is the spec copied and pasted:

500W Motor
9-Speed
16mm Keyed Chuck
0-45° Left & Right Table Tilt
Cast Iron Table
View more information

Product contents:
Pillar drill, laser combination, shield, spindle pulley, counter
wheel, magnetic switch and chuck guard.

Specifications:
W x D x H: 300 x 610 x 610mm. Table W x D: 170 x 170mm. Spindle travel
50mm. Throat depth 115mm. Chuck to table 270mm. Chuck to base 330mm.
No load speed 280-2350rpm. Weight 20kg.

I think this is my one -
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...ed-pillar-dri/
Less wattage and only a 13mm chuck but for normal run of the mill diy it's
great.
I've never had any probs with a 2" spindle throw, just depends on the job.
Prices have increased tho, I'm sure I paid ~£50.

In message om, bm
writes

I think this is my one -
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...ed-pillar-dri/
Less wattage and only a 13mm chuck but for normal run of the mill diy it's
great.

That looks very much like the one I bought a while ago. Doubtless a
precision engineer would laugh, but for my simple DIY jobs, it is
perfect. Because it sits on the bench, ready to use, I use it
frequently. Box of drills nearby, chuck key tied on with a length of
string. Highly recommended.
--
Graeme

On 03/12/2015 00:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Bob Minchin wrote:
Basically it is a toy drill but might suit light hobby use.
No way is 500w enough to drive a 5/8 drill through a block of steel -
but you possibly don't want that.

It is if you take it in steps.

I'd hardly describe it as a toy drill. Just how many ever need to drill
such a large hole in a block of steel anyway?

Of course it could be bettered. But the cost goes up dramatically for a
small gain. Economy of production scale. This sort of spec drill is the
most common by far.


I have drilled 5/8 holes in steel with my battery drill, the drill press
will do it with ease.

Lower power drills can usually do the job, just not as quick.
I have put a 110mm core drill trough 6 inches of concrete with a 18V
battery drill and it only took three batteries to do it.

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 5:23:46 PM UTC, Stephen wrote:
Hello,

Has anyone seen Screwfix's own brand Titan pillar drill:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb5...ill-240v/16108

It sounds quite good. It has a page and half of glowing reviews,
although the last three are very critical, so I don't know which to
believe.

I thought I read here that 500W induction motors were recommended for
an entry level pillar drill? This is 500W but it doesn't say whether
it is induction or not; does anyone know?

It says the spindle travel is only 50mm. That doesn't seem much. Is
that average for a pillar drill? Are there any better out there?

Am I right to think that the chuck to table distance is not that
relevant because you could swing the drill through 180 degrees to
drill larger items?

The remaining figure is the throat depth which is 115mm. How does this
compare to other makes? Is it restrictive? It doesn't sound much being
what, just over 4 inches.

Here is the spec copied and pasted:

500W Motor
9-Speed
16mm Keyed Chuck
0-45° Left & Right Table Tilt
Cast Iron Table
View more information

Product contents:
Pillar drill, laser combination, shield, spindle pulley, counter
wheel, magnetic switch and chuck guard.

Specifications:
W x D x H: 300 x 610 x 610mm. Table W x D: 170 x 170mm. Spindle travel
50mm. Throat depth 115mm. Chuck to table 270mm. Chuck to base 330mm.
No load speed 280-2350rpm. Weight 20kg.


Thanks,
Stephen.

My own 2p's worth to add to others.

I bought something similar from Aldi a few years ago. A pillar drill, even of
this relatively low quality, has been very useful to me, with wood and metal.
As others have said, the 50mm travel is the most limiting part.

IIRC you can swivel the drill 180degrees, but you have to have the table
clamped down or the thing overbalances.

I traded mine up for a larger model, with a better (UK) mfr name, but I have
no illusions, my newer one will have come from a very similar Chinese Factory.

If I came across an old UK-made one others have described - Fobco, Meddings
etc., at a decent price, I'd buy one in a shot.

Machine Mart are not liked in this newsgroup due to their shady refund policies.

HTH
Jon N

On Thursday, 3 December 2015 10:22:13 UTC, dennis@home wrote:
On 03/12/2015 00:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Bob Minchin wrote:
Basically it is a toy drill but might suit light hobby use.
No way is 500w enough to drive a 5/8 drill through a block of steel -
but you possibly don't want that.

It is if you take it in steps.

I'd hardly describe it as a toy drill. Just how many ever need to drill
such a large hole in a block of steel anyway?

Of course it could be bettered. But the cost goes up dramatically for a
small gain. Economy of production scale. This sort of spec drill is the
most common by far.


I have drilled 5/8 holes in steel with my battery drill, the drill press
will do it with ease.

Lower power drills can usually do the job, just not as quick.
I have put a 110mm core drill trough 6 inches of concrete with a 18V
battery drill and it only took three batteries to do it.

I've come to the conclusion that drills are mostly overpowered for marketing purposes. Years ago I used an ancient B&D to core drill masonry (ISTR some issue with the shank stopped it going into the modern ones I had with me).. It did it just fine. I also once fell back for a reason I don't recall to using an old B&D to auger drill lots of 1" holes in some very tough wood, and drive lots of screws into the wood. Again it coped no problem - other than needing to reverse the auger half a turn by hand each time to remove it.. Those drills were I think 275w & 200w. They seem to be perfectly capable.


NT

On Friday, 4 December 2015 00:17:43 UTC, wrote:
On Thursday, 3 December 2015 10:22:13 UTC, dennis@home wrote:
On 03/12/2015 00:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Bob Minchin wrote:
Basically it is a toy drill but might suit light hobby use.
No way is 500w enough to drive a 5/8 drill through a block of steel -
but you possibly don't want that.

It is if you take it in steps.

I'd hardly describe it as a toy drill. Just how many ever need to drill
such a large hole in a block of steel anyway?

Of course it could be bettered. But the cost goes up dramatically for a
small gain. Economy of production scale. This sort of spec drill is the
most common by far.


I have drilled 5/8 holes in steel with my battery drill, the drill press
will do it with ease.

Lower power drills can usually do the job, just not as quick.
I have put a 110mm core drill trough 6 inches of concrete with a 18V
battery drill and it only took three batteries to do it.

I've come to the conclusion that drills are mostly overpowered for marketing purposes. Years ago I used an ancient B&D to core drill masonry (ISTR some issue with the shank stopped it going into the modern ones I had with me). It did it just fine. I also once fell back for a reason I don't recall to using an old B&D to auger drill lots of 1" holes in some very tough wood, and drive lots of screws into the wood. Again it coped no problem - other than needing to reverse the auger half a turn by hand each time to remove it. Those drills were I think 275w & 200w. They seem to be perfectly capable.


But you can't drill through a wall to get to safety deposit boxes with a piddley little few hundred watt drill. :-)

On 02/12/2015 17:23, Stephen wrote:
Hello,

Has anyone seen Screwfix's own brand Titan pillar drill:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb5...ill-240v/16108

It sounds quite good. It has a page and half of glowing reviews,
although the last three are very critical, so I don't know which to
believe.

Looking at the picture is looks identical to the equally cheap and nasty
Ferm model that I have.

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its better than that
- just. That is about all that can be said of it. The power is ok for
the size. The quill travel is too limited and there is *far* too much
slop in it at full extension. The chuck does have a morse taper fitting
but its female - so there is no option to stick a MT drill direct into
the quill. The table flexes all over the place.

I thought I read here that 500W induction motors were recommended for
an entry level pillar drill? This is 500W but it doesn't say whether
it is induction or not; does anyone know?

It will be an induction motor - likely to be the best bit of the whole
bundle in reality.

It says the spindle travel is only 50mm. That doesn't seem much. Is
that average for a pillar drill? Are there any better out there?

Its common for the toy drills, but its not really enough.

Am I right to think that the chuck to table distance is not that
relevant because you could swing the drill through 180 degrees to
drill larger items?

You could I suppose. You can also swing the table out of the way to get
a bit more height.

The remaining figure is the throat depth which is 115mm. How does this
compare to other makes? Is it restrictive? It doesn't sound much being

To be fair, its not its biggest limitation.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 04/12/2015 12:09, whisky-dave wrote:

But you can't drill through a wall to get to safety deposit boxes
with a piddley little few hundred watt drill. :-)




Do you want a bet?
How long do you have to drill the hole?

On 04/12/2015 19:39, dennis@home wrote:
On 04/12/2015 12:09, whisky-dave wrote:

But you can't drill through a wall to get to safety deposit boxes
with a piddley little few hundred watt drill. :-)




Do you want a bet?
How long do you have to drill the hole?

Until the police arrive I should think.

On 04/12/2015 19:47, Albert Zweistein wrote:
On 04/12/2015 19:39, dennis@home wrote:
On 04/12/2015 12:09, whisky-dave wrote:

But you can't drill through a wall to get to safety deposit boxes
with a piddley little few hundred watt drill. :-)




Do you want a bet?
How long do you have to drill the hole?

Until the police arrive I should think.

First time? Or second?

--
Rod

On Wed, 2 Dec 2015 18:56:12 +0000, Bob Minchin
wrote:

Are there better? yes of course but you will have to pay a proper price

I see that SF are also selling a Titan 700W drill that has a maximum
drilling depth of 80mm but it is £170, so twice as much which is a big
difference.

On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 17:41:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its better than that
- just. That is about all that can be said of it. The power is ok for
the size. The quill travel is too limited and there is *far* too much
slop in it at full extension. The chuck does have a morse taper fitting
but its female - so there is no option to stick a MT drill direct into
the quill. The table flexes all over the place.

Oh dear, you have put me off! I don't have a pillar drill at the
moment, and I would like to get one. Have you upgraded from yours yet?
What did you upgrade to, or if you were to get a better one, what
would you buy?

Thanks,
Stephen.

On 05/12/2015 20:53, Stephen wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 17:41:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its better than that
- just. That is about all that can be said of it. The power is ok for
the size. The quill travel is too limited and there is *far* too much
slop in it at full extension. The chuck does have a morse taper fitting
but its female - so there is no option to stick a MT drill direct into
the quill. The table flexes all over the place.

Oh dear, you have put me off! I don't have a pillar drill at the
moment, and I would like to get one. Have you upgraded from yours yet?
What did you upgrade to, or if you were to get a better one, what
would you buy?

As I said, its better than none. There are lots of things you can do
with a pillar drill that are difficult otherwise, so I would not like to
be without it. I bought it over 10 years ago and still have it, so its
obviously not bothered me enough - yet ;-) (or more to the point there
are other tools I have thought to replace first).

Note that I use it for woodwork and general DIY, I think I would find it
too limiting for any serious metalwork.

To replace it, I would be tempted to go for a floor stander. Something
with a more stable quill and longer travel. A far more substantial table
with hand crank height adjustment.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , Stephen
writes
On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 17:41:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its better than that
- just.

Oh dear, you have put me off! I don't have a pillar drill at the
moment, and I would like to get one.

Stephen, don't be put off unless you are going to be a *serious* user of
your new pillar drill. My cheap one is more than adequate for general
DIY use such as drilling holes in wood, etc. I used it to drill holes
in a large metal gate post, and it was fine.

--
Graeme

On Friday, 4 December 2015 12:09:18 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Friday, 4 December 2015 00:17:43 UTC, wrote:
On Thursday, 3 December 2015 10:22:13 UTC, dennis@home wrote:

Lower power drills can usually do the job, just not as quick.
I have put a 110mm core drill trough 6 inches of concrete with a 18V
battery drill and it only took three batteries to do it.

I've come to the conclusion that drills are mostly overpowered for marketing purposes. Years ago I used an ancient B&D to core drill masonry (ISTR some issue with the shank stopped it going into the modern ones I had with me). It did it just fine. I also once fell back for a reason I don't recall to using an old B&D to auger drill lots of 1" holes in some very tough wood, and drive lots of screws into the wood. Again it coped no problem - other than needing to reverse the auger half a turn by hand each time to remove it. Those drills were I think 275w & 200w. They seem to be perfectly capable.


But you can't drill through a wall to get to safety deposit boxes with a piddley little few hundred watt drill. :-)

The point is that those ones are just as effective. I found so from experience. I thus conclude modern drill motors are woefully inefficient.


NT

On Saturday, 5 December 2015 20:53:27 UTC, Stephen wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 17:41:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its better than that
- just. That is about all that can be said of it. The power is ok for
the size. The quill travel is too limited and there is *far* too much
slop in it at full extension. The chuck does have a morse taper fitting
but its female - so there is no option to stick a MT drill direct into
the quill. The table flexes all over the place.

Oh dear, you have put me off! I don't have a pillar drill at the
moment, and I would like to get one. Have you upgraded from yours yet?
What did you upgrade to, or if you were to get a better one, what
would you buy?

Thanks,
Stephen.

Why don't you make one? There are plenty of simple designs on youtube


NT

In article ,
wrote:
The point is that those ones are just as effective. I found so from
experience. I thus conclude modern drill motors are woefully inefficient.

They are generally induction motors on pillar drills. And single phase
induction motors need to have a sensible rating for the work required as
they only really work properly at their designed speed. Unlike a brush
motor which will generally produce at least as much torque if slowed down
due to load.

Snag with a brush motor is the much higher speed. Which would require a
gearbox for pillar drill speeds.

--
*A journey of a thousand sites begins with a single click *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 08/12/2015 00:15, wrote:
On Saturday, 5 December 2015 20:53:27 UTC, Stephen wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 17:41:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its better than that
- just. That is about all that can be said of it. The power is ok for
the size. The quill travel is too limited and there is *far* too much
slop in it at full extension. The chuck does have a morse taper fitting
but its female - so there is no option to stick a MT drill direct into
the quill. The table flexes all over the place.

Oh dear, you have put me off! I don't have a pillar drill at the
moment, and I would like to get one. Have you upgraded from yours yet?
What did you upgrade to, or if you were to get a better one, what
would you buy?

Thanks,
Stephen.

Why don't you make one? There are plenty of simple designs on youtube


No point with a pillar drill really - there is no cost saving by the
time you have bought the key components...


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 12:29:40 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 08/12/2015 00:15, nt wrote:
On Saturday, 5 December 2015 20:53:27 UTC, Stephen wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 17:41:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its better than that
- just. That is about all that can be said of it. The power is ok for
the size. The quill travel is too limited and there is *far* too much
slop in it at full extension. The chuck does have a morse taper fitting
but its female - so there is no option to stick a MT drill direct into
the quill. The table flexes all over the place.

Oh dear, you have put me off! I don't have a pillar drill at the
moment, and I would like to get one. Have you upgraded from yours yet?
What did you upgrade to, or if you were to get a better one, what
would you buy?

Thanks,
Stephen.

Why don't you make one? There are plenty of simple designs on youtube


No point with a pillar drill really - there is no cost saving by the
time you have bought the key components...

They key bits are just scrap wood and a jubilee clip or 2


NT

On 08/12/2015 13:57, wrote:
On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 12:29:40 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 08/12/2015 00:15, nt wrote:
On Saturday, 5 December 2015 20:53:27 UTC, Stephen wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 17:41:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its better than that
- just. That is about all that can be said of it. The power is ok for
the size. The quill travel is too limited and there is *far* too much
slop in it at full extension. The chuck does have a morse taper fitting
but its female - so there is no option to stick a MT drill direct into
the quill. The table flexes all over the place.

Oh dear, you have put me off! I don't have a pillar drill at the
moment, and I would like to get one. Have you upgraded from yours yet?
What did you upgrade to, or if you were to get a better one, what
would you buy?

Thanks,
Stephen.

Why don't you make one? There are plenty of simple designs on youtube


No point with a pillar drill really - there is no cost saving by the
time you have bought the key components...

They key bits are just scrap wood and a jubilee clip or 2

and a motor and a chuck, and some form for rack and pinion mechanism...

like I said, not worth it - you can buy a crap one for 60 quid.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 18:49:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 08/12/2015 13:57, nt wrote:
On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 12:29:40 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 08/12/2015 00:15, nt wrote:
On Saturday, 5 December 2015 20:53:27 UTC, Stephen wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 17:41:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its better than that
- just.

Why don't you make one? There are plenty of simple designs on youtube

No point with a pillar drill really - there is no cost saving by the
time you have bought the key components...

They key bits are just scrap wood and a jubilee clip or 2

and a motor and a chuck,

that's already in your old handheld drill, which is secured in place

and some form for rack and pinion mechanism...

they mostly use different mechanics made of wood

like I said, not worth it - you can buy a crap one for 60 quid.

You can. Some of us want specific attributes you're unlikely to get with an off the shelf drill. And some people of course don't want to spend.


NT

In article ,
wrote:
No point with a pillar drill really - there is no cost saving by the
time you have bought the key components...

They key bits are just scrap wood and a jubilee clip or 2

You can buy stands to convert a normal drill into a sort of pillar one.
But they suffer even more from sideways slop than even the cheapest ready
made pillar drill. They do generally have a longer travel, though.

My cheap pillar drill came from Lidl. Replaced the older B&Q one and cost
about the same - about 50 quid or less. It has a higher maximum distance
between chuck and table and an adequately powerful 500 watt motor. The two
things that made me change from the B&Q one.

It is adequate for my needs. Otherwise I'd not have bought it.

--
*You can't teach an old mouse new clicks *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 09/12/2015 01:41, wrote:
On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 18:49:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 08/12/2015 13:57, nt wrote:
On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 12:29:40 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 08/12/2015 00:15, nt wrote:
On Saturday, 5 December 2015 20:53:27 UTC, Stephen wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2015 17:41:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its
better than that - just.

Why don't you make one? There are plenty of simple designs on
youtube

No point with a pillar drill really - there is no cost saving
by the time you have bought the key components...

They key bits are just scrap wood and a jubilee clip or 2

and a motor and a chuck,

that's already in your old handheld drill, which is secured in place

and some form for rack and pinion mechanism...

they mostly use different mechanics made of wood

like I said, not worth it - you can buy a crap one for 60 quid.

You can. Some of us want specific attributes you're unlikely to get
with an off the shelf drill. And some people of course don't want to
spend.

A black & decker in a drill stand is not much of a substitute for a
drill press IME, but you please yourself.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
You can. Some of us want specific attributes you're unlikely to get
with an off the shelf drill. And some people of course don't want to
spend.

A black & decker in a drill stand is not much of a substitute for a
drill press IME, but you please yourself.

It's not. Still have one here. You can move the chuck about 5mm side to
side. Only real benefit - why I've kept it - is the much larger chuck
travel. Handy for drilling lots of holes in thick wood, etc. On the very
rare occasion you'd need to.

--
*If at first you don't succeed, redefine success.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

replying to Bob Minchin, FinnegaNn22 wrote:
Where do you get the 'Toy Drill' business from?
This is a 3/4 horse power motor, although the particular drill in question is
700 watt motor - almost
one horse power, so not sure what you reckon on drilling. Three in holes in
steel maybe!!!
These machines are perfectly suitable and powerful enough for any prolonged
D.I.Y use and at this time, I have one of these in my motor car repair shop
and have had no problems whatsoever, working on and off all day long,so please
don't degrade these bench drills as they are perfectly adequate for virtually
all types of drilling work.


--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...l-1092099-.htm

FinnegaNn22 wrote:
replying to Bob Minchin, FinnegaNn22 wrote:
Where do you get the 'Toy Drill' business from?
This is a 3/4 horse power motor, although the particular drill in
question is
700 watt motor - almost one horse power, so not sure what you reckon on
drilling. Three in holes in
steel maybe!!!
These machines are perfectly suitable and powerful enough for any prolonged
D.I.Y use and at this time, I have one of these in my motor car repair shop
and have had no problems whatsoever, working on and off all day long,so
please
don't degrade these bench drills as they are perfectly adequate for
virtually all types of drilling work.


Clearly reading is not a strength of yours.
The OP was asking for opinions on a 500w 50mm travel drill not the one
to which you refer.

On 20/02/2017 12:44, FinnegaNn22 wrote:
replying to Bob Minchin, FinnegaNn22 wrote:

Where do you get the 'Toy Drill' business from?

Typically with this class of drill, its an indication that there is
limited travel in the quill, and there will be lots of slop in the
bearings on the quill - especially at full extension - so accuracy and
drilling capacity may be poor.

The table may also have more flex that you would like, and it may lack
nice features like rack an pinion height adjustment.

The throat depth may also be quite limited.

Many of the budget drills don't allow the head to be rotated easily so
that you can clear the base of the stand and hence drill stuff longer
than the pillar.

Also on many of the budget drills, the chuck has the female morse taper
socket rather than the quill, so you are prevented from using larger MT
drills direct in the quill without the chuck.

This is a 3/4 horse power motor, although the particular drill in
question is
700 watt motor - almost one horse power, so not sure what you reckon on
drilling. Three in holes in
steel maybe!!!

Power is usually less of an issue,

These machines are perfectly suitable and powerful enough for any prolonged
D.I.Y use and at this time, I have one of these in my motor car repair shop
and have had no problems whatsoever, working on and off all day long,so
please

It probably has an induction motor, and so will support a decent duty
cycle.

don't degrade these bench drills as they are perfectly adequate for
virtually all types of drilling work.

Sure, adequate is the word, so long as you can cope with the limitations
mentioned above.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

replying to Bob Minchin, FinnegaN22 wrote:
My reading prowess is just fine baby. The drill in question is NOT a toy as
was somewhat unknowingly described. Maybe was thinking of the ones listed as
370 watt half horse power. I expect you know the ones I refer to. Those which
you can grab the chuck when it's running and easily stop it!! Not for the
faint hearted but proves a point.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...l-1092099-.htm