After investigating various ways of building a base for a garden shed on
sloping ground I've bult a wooden frame out of treated 2x3 and plan to
drop 6 uprights into holes that will be filled with postcrete. Initially
I was going to make the uprights by cutting stub concrete posts in half
but am too concerned about the steel rebar (spalling and drilling holes)
so then decided to use treated 4x4 and accept that they will rot over
some years. Now I'm wondering about cutting strips from thick
(non-reinforced) concrete slabs and using those on end - they should be
OK to drill and there won't be significant sideloads.

Any comments?

How about using recycled plastic posts, Filcris or similar?

Sorry, I meant to include a link:

http://www.filcris.co.uk/products/boards-and-posts

On Wednesday, 17 June 2015 16:02:19 UTC+1, wrote:
After investigating various ways of building a base for a garden shed on
sloping ground I've bult a wooden frame out of treated 2x3 and plan to
drop 6 uprights into holes that will be filled with postcrete. Initially
I was going to make the uprights by cutting stub concrete posts in half
but am too concerned about the steel rebar (spalling and drilling holes)
so then decided to use treated 4x4 and accept that they will rot over
some years. Now I'm wondering about cutting strips from thick
(non-reinforced) concrete slabs and using those on end - they should be
OK to drill and there won't be significant sideloads.

Any comments?

You could cut the concrete post & epoxy the top of it. Wood I woodent, its bound to fail on you.


NT

wrote in message
...
After investigating various ways of building a base for a garden shed on
sloping ground I've bult a wooden frame out of treated 2x3 and plan to
drop 6 uprights into holes that will be filled with postcrete. Initially I
was going to make the uprights by cutting stub concrete posts in half but
am too concerned about the steel rebar (spalling and drilling holes) so
then decided to use treated 4x4 and accept that they will rot over some
years. Now I'm wondering about cutting strips from thick (non-reinforced)
concrete slabs and using those on end - they should be OK to drill and
there won't be significant sideloads.

You decided a month ago that you were going to mount it on adjustable
plastic things, you're not trying to get out of it are you?

I think you're overthinking it, what's with the drilling? - you don't need
to fix the shed down - it's 8ft by 6fy, it ain't going to blow away.

Just lay two or three rows of concrete slabs and rest the shed on that,
there'll be sufficient air gap underneath for ventilation and mice, and
forget about the slab - the shed will rot away long before the base.

On 17/06/2015 20:13, wrote:
On Wednesday, 17 June 2015 16:02:19 UTC+1, wrote:
After investigating various ways of building a base for a garden shed on
sloping ground I've bult a wooden frame out of treated 2x3 and plan to
drop 6 uprights into holes that will be filled with postcrete. Initially
I was going to make the uprights by cutting stub concrete posts in half
but am too concerned about the steel rebar (spalling and drilling holes)
so then decided to use treated 4x4 and accept that they will rot over
some years. Now I'm wondering about cutting strips from thick
(non-reinforced) concrete slabs and using those on end - they should be
OK to drill and there won't be significant sideloads.

Any comments?

You could cut the concrete post & epoxy the top of it. Wood I woodent, its bound to fail on you.


NT


What the OP needs is some cardboard tubes out of carpets and some ready
mix. He can dig holes, put hardcore in the bottom poor some concrete in
and when set put the tubes in and cut to the right height and then fill
with ready mix.

On 17/06/2015 18:27, Bert Coules wrote:
Sorry, I meant to include a link:

http://www.filcris.co.uk/products/boards-and-posts


I looked at them and other suppliers of similar products - an ideal
solution but there is nobody locally offering recycled plastic posts and
postage makes them rather expensive

On 17/06/2015 20:40, Phil L wrote:
wrote in message
...
After investigating various ways of building a base for a garden shed on
sloping ground I've bult a wooden frame out of treated 2x3 and plan to
drop 6 uprights into holes that will be filled with postcrete. Initially I
was going to make the uprights by cutting stub concrete posts in half but
am too concerned about the steel rebar (spalling and drilling holes) so
then decided to use treated 4x4 and accept that they will rot over some
years. Now I'm wondering about cutting strips from thick (non-reinforced)
concrete slabs and using those on end - they should be OK to drill and
there won't be significant sideloads.

You decided a month ago that you were going to mount it on adjustable
plastic things, you're not trying to get out of it are you?

I think you're overthinking it, what's with the drilling? - you don't need
to fix the shed down - it's 8ft by 6fy, it ain't going to blow away.

Just lay two or three rows of concrete slabs and rest the shed on that,
there'll be sufficient air gap underneath for ventilation and mice, and
forget about the slab - the shed will rot away long before the base.



Was it really a month ago? Round tuits seem to take even longer to come
to fruition as the years pass by ;-)

Unfortunately the ground is far from level and a few concrete blocks
will not give a viable solution. The drilling is to attach the shed
base, which the shed floor will sit on.

On 17/06/2015 21:01, dennis@home wrote:
On 17/06/2015 20:13, wrote:
On Wednesday, 17 June 2015 16:02:19 UTC+1, wrote:
After investigating various ways of building a base for a garden shed on
sloping ground I've bult a wooden frame out of treated 2x3 and plan to
drop 6 uprights into holes that will be filled with postcrete. Initially
I was going to make the uprights by cutting stub concrete posts in half
but am too concerned about the steel rebar (spalling and drilling holes)
so then decided to use treated 4x4 and accept that they will rot over
some years. Now I'm wondering about cutting strips from thick
(non-reinforced) concrete slabs and using those on end - they should be
OK to drill and there won't be significant sideloads.

Any comments?

You could cut the concrete post & epoxy the top of it. Wood I woodent,
its bound to fail on you.


NT


What the OP needs is some cardboard tubes out of carpets and some ready
mix. He can dig holes, put hardcore in the bottom poor some concrete in
and when set put the tubes in and cut to the right height and then fill
with ready mix.
An interesting idea (ignoring the difficulty of converting carpet to
cardboard ;-) ) - that would give me pillars to set the base on but I'd
prefer to have something I could put a coach bolt through.

On Wednesday, 17 June 2015 22:45:10 UTC+1, wrote:
On 17/06/2015 21:01, dennis@home wrote:

What the OP needs is some cardboard tubes out of carpets and some ready
mix. He can dig holes, put hardcore in the bottom poor some concrete in
and when set put the tubes in and cut to the right height and then fill
with ready mix.
An interesting idea (ignoring the difficulty of converting carpet to
cardboard ;-) ) - that would give me pillars to set the base on but I'd

concrete blocks seem simpler

prefer to have something I could put a coach bolt through.


NT

On 17/06/2015 20:40, Phil L wrote:
wrote in message
...
After investigating various ways of building a base for a garden shed on
sloping ground I've bult a wooden frame out of treated 2x3 and plan to
drop 6 uprights into holes that will be filled with postcrete. Initially I
was going to make the uprights by cutting stub concrete posts in half but
am too concerned about the steel rebar (spalling and drilling holes) so
then decided to use treated 4x4 and accept that they will rot over some
years. Now I'm wondering about cutting strips from thick (non-reinforced)
concrete slabs and using those on end - they should be OK to drill and
there won't be significant sideloads.

You decided a month ago that you were going to mount it on adjustable
plastic things, you're not trying to get out of it are you?

I think you're overthinking it, what's with the drilling? - you don't need
to fix the shed down - it's 8ft by 6fy, it ain't going to blow away.

Just lay two or three rows of concrete slabs and rest the shed on that,
there'll be sufficient air gap underneath for ventilation and mice, and
forget about the slab - the shed will rot away long before the base.



I have to agree

On 17/06/2015 22:45, wrote:
On 17/06/2015 21:01, dennis@home wrote:


What the OP needs is some cardboard tubes out of carpets and some ready
mix. He can dig holes, put hardcore in the bottom poor some concrete in
and when set put the tubes in and cut to the right height and then fill
with ready mix.
An interesting idea (ignoring the difficulty of converting carpet to
cardboard ;-) ) - that would give me pillars to set the base on but I'd
prefer to have something I could put a coach bolt through.

Cast some metal studs into the pillars, and then bolt the base frame to
those - with vertical holes in the wood and nuts and washers on top.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On Wednesday, June 17, 2015 at 8:40:17 PM UTC+1, Phil L wrote:
wrote in message
...
After investigating various ways of building a base for a garden shed on
sloping ground I've bult a wooden frame out of treated 2x3 and plan to
drop 6 uprights into holes that will be filled with postcrete. Initially I
was going to make the uprights by cutting stub concrete posts in half but
am too concerned about the steel rebar (spalling and drilling holes) so
then decided to use treated 4x4 and accept that they will rot over some
years. Now I'm wondering about cutting strips from thick (non-reinforced)
concrete slabs and using those on end - they should be OK to drill and
there won't be significant sideloads.

You decided a month ago that you were going to mount it on adjustable
plastic things, you're not trying to get out of it are you?

I think you're overthinking it, what's with the drilling? - you don't need
to fix the shed down - it's 8ft by 6fy, it ain't going to blow away.


During a heavy storm some years back near here an entire 80ft long chicken shed and its full complement of chickens took off. Bits of the shed were found but the chickens just disappeared apparently

Just lay two or three rows of concrete slabs and re

st the shed on that,
there'll be sufficient air gap underneath for ventilation and mice, and
forget about the slab - the shed will rot away long before the base.

On Wednesday, June 17, 2015 at 9:02:12 PM UTC+1, dennis@home wrote:
On 17/06/2015 20:13, wrote:
On Wednesday, 17 June 2015 16:02:19 UTC+1, wrote:
After investigating various ways of building a base for a garden shed on
sloping ground I've bult a wooden frame out of treated 2x3 and plan to
drop 6 uprights into holes that will be filled with postcrete. Initially
I was going to make the uprights by cutting stub concrete posts in half
but am too concerned about the steel rebar (spalling and drilling holes)
so then decided to use treated 4x4 and accept that they will rot over
some years. Now I'm wondering about cutting strips from thick
(non-reinforced) concrete slabs and using those on end - they should be
OK to drill and there won't be significant sideloads.

Any comments?

You could cut the concrete post & epoxy the top of it. Wood I woodent, its bound to fail on you.


NT


What the OP needs is some cardboard tubes out of carpets and some ready
mix. He can dig holes, put hardcore in the bottom poor some concrete in
and when set put the tubes in and cut to the right height and then fill
with ready mix.

ghetto Sonotube, genius

http://www.sonotube.com/

With as suggested threaded stud cast into top for attachment.

Saw a motorway uderpass being constructed with a large , 3` mebbe, auger drilling holes either side of underpass, rebar frames dropped in holes and concrete poured im , provided intial piers for beams placed in just as they started digging out the underpass itself, finished with slab wall and back fill, was neat to watch over a couple of weeks.

Bit like the piling on the Newburn flats....

http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news...-three-1345473

On 18/06/2015 23:54, Adam Aglionby wrote:

Saw a motorway uderpass being constructed with a large , 3` mebbe,
auger drilling holes either side of underpass, rebar frames dropped
in holes and concrete poured im , provided intial piers for beams
placed in just as they started digging out the underpass itself,
finished with slab wall and back fill, was neat to watch over a
couple of weeks.

Its a little more complex than that..

You will have seen the temporary metal struts across the top to stop the
whole thing falling in while they were being dug out.
When they get to the bottom of the dig they have to cast beams across to
tie into the uprights and wait for them to set before they can remove
the supporting struts. This makes a reinforced concrete trench.
They usually finish the walls while waiting for it to set.

On 17/06/2015 22:45, wrote:
On 17/06/2015 21:01, dennis@home wrote:
On 17/06/2015 20:13, wrote:
On Wednesday, 17 June 2015 16:02:19 UTC+1, wrote:
After investigating various ways of building a base for a garden
shed on
sloping ground I've bult a wooden frame out of treated 2x3 and plan to
drop 6 uprights into holes that will be filled with postcrete.
Initially
I was going to make the uprights by cutting stub concrete posts in half
but am too concerned about the steel rebar (spalling and drilling
holes)
so then decided to use treated 4x4 and accept that they will rot over
some years. Now I'm wondering about cutting strips from thick
(non-reinforced) concrete slabs and using those on end - they should be
OK to drill and there won't be significant sideloads.

Any comments?

You could cut the concrete post & epoxy the top of it. Wood I woodent,
its bound to fail on you.


NT


What the OP needs is some cardboard tubes out of carpets and some ready
mix. He can dig holes, put hardcore in the bottom poor some concrete in
and when set put the tubes in and cut to the right height and then fill
with ready mix.
An interesting idea (ignoring the difficulty of converting carpet to
cardboard ;-) ) - that would give me pillars to set the base on but I'd
prefer to have something I could put a coach bolt through.
The Yanks use something simlar to cast deck footings, casting brackets
into the top. I don't see (though someone else might) why sections of
110mm plastic drainage wouldn't make useful forms for pouring concrete
in this sort of application. Not expensive, and much simpler to source
than going around begging carpet shops for their cast-off cores.

In message , GMM
writes
110mm plastic drainage wouldn't make useful forms for pouring concrete
in this sort of application. Not expensive, and much simpler to source
than going around begging carpet shops for their cast-off cores.

I wanted some card carpet cores for another use, and the local carpet
store people were delighted to let me take away as many as I could
carry.
--
Graeme