Having spent all last weekend tearing down and cutting up an old shed, I now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

The "base" that the existing shed was on was merely leveled ground with apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

The shed manufacturers have been fairly non-committal about what they want as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

I've got quite a few spare paving flags lying around, so very tempted to use those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Any help gratefully received!

Matt

Square paving slabs as load spreaders, short brick piers, thick
polythene (DPC) or proper A1 roofing felt on top as DPC.

Airflow under a shed prevents rot, moves the shed timbers out of the
ground "rot zone", and provides protection from splashback (rain
hitting ground splashes back up causing damp).

If you plan on using the shed as a work room in winter, insulate the
floor re cold feet (polystyrene jablite with whatever flooring on
top), and insulate the ceiling re sun bake & winter heat loss. A
dehumidifier will keep things dry, but are expensive to run if any air
changes per hour so vapour barrier everything.

larkim wrote:

Having spent all last weekend tearing down and cutting up an old
shed, I now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

The "base" that the existing shed was on was merely leveled ground
with apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a
barrier. Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40
years old.

The shed manufacturers have been fairly non-committal about what they
want as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do
them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or
pitfalls to avoid.

I've got quite a few spare paving flags lying around, so very tempted
to use those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to
consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Any help gratefully received!

The last shed we put up at school was on level ground and we used 4x4
post timbers as a sub-base on which to lay the shed floor proper. This
lifts it up enough to allow air-flow, keep the floor out of any
standing water, and they look part of the shed.

Works well ..

--
Paul - xxx
Mark cavendish Danny Hart
British Cycling World Champions 2011

On Mar 6, 1:48*pm, larkim wrote:
Having spent all last weekend tearing down and cutting up an old shed, I now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

The "base" that the existing shed was on was merely leveled ground with apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. *Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

The shed manufacturers have been fairly non-committal about what they want as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

I've got quite a few spare paving flags lying around, so very tempted to use those for substantial parts of the job. *Do you need to consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Any help gratefully received!

Matt

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Shed


NT

"larkim" wrote in message
news:13479677.4844.1331041726856.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbux23...
Having spent all last weekend tearing down and cutting up an old shed, I
now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

The "base" that the existing shed was on was merely leveled ground with
apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier.
Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

The shed manufacturers have been fairly non-committal about what they want
as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so
curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

I've got quite a few spare paving flags lying around, so very tempted to
use those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider water
penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Any help gratefully received!

Matt

A regularly discussed topic here

100mm concrete base (DPC under concrete to stop water draining down whilst
setting) is the easiest and most durable

When set just drop the shed floor on to it

Concrete blocks with wooden bearers at 500mm centres at right angles to the
shed floor 'joists' cheaper but more trouble to get level all over

Pallets laid on bits of slab would also work

"TMC" wrote in message
...

"larkim" wrote in message
news:13479677.4844.1331041726856.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbux23...
Having spent all last weekend tearing down and cutting up an old shed, I
now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

The "base" that the existing shed was on was merely leveled ground with
apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier.
Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

The shed manufacturers have been fairly non-committal about what they
want as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them),
so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to
avoid.

I've got quite a few spare paving flags lying around, so very tempted to
use those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider
water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Any help gratefully received!

Matt

A regularly discussed topic here

100mm concrete base (DPC under concrete to stop water draining down whilst
setting) is the easiest and most durable

When set just drop the shed floor on to it

Concrete blocks with wooden bearers at 500mm centres at right angles to
the shed floor 'joists' cheaper but more trouble to get level all over

Pallets laid on bits of slab would also work


I've used old wooden railway sleepers in the past with 1 1/2 inch plywood
sheets screwed to them. Worked a treat!

larkim wrote:
Having spent all last weekend tearing down and cutting up an old shed, I now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

The "base" that the existing shed was on was merely leveled ground with apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

The shed manufacturers have been fairly non-committal about what they want as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

I've got quite a few spare paving flags lying around, so very tempted to use those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Any help gratefully received!

Matt

whats going/gone on my shed is not te base and neither is it the floor
except where a roof leak allowed water to pool inside.

Its the roof.

Anything that reliably keeps the shed timbers clear of the ground is OK.

--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

On Tuesday, 6 March 2012 17:39:22 UTC, Wesley wrote:
"TMC" wrote in message
...

"larkim" wrote in message
news:13479677.4844.1331041726856.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbux23...
Having spent all last weekend tearing down and cutting up an old shed, I
now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

The "base" that the existing shed was on was merely leveled ground with
apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier.
Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

The shed manufacturers have been fairly non-committal about what they
want as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them),
so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to
avoid.

I've got quite a few spare paving flags lying around, so very tempted to
use those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider
water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Any help gratefully received!

Matt

A regularly discussed topic here

100mm concrete base (DPC under concrete to stop water draining down whilst
setting) is the easiest and most durable

When set just drop the shed floor on to it

Concrete blocks with wooden bearers at 500mm centres at right angles to
the shed floor 'joists' cheaper but more trouble to get level all over

Pallets laid on bits of slab would also work


I've used old wooden railway sleepers in the past with 1 1/2 inch plywood
sheets screwed to them. Worked a treat!

Many thanks one and all.

Matt

On 06/03/2012 13:48, larkim wrote:
Having spent all last weekend tearing down and cutting up an old shed, I now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

The "base" that the existing shed was on was merely leveled ground with apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

The shed manufacturers have been fairly non-committal about what they want as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

I've got quite a few spare paving flags lying around, so very tempted to use those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Any help gratefully received!

Matt

Concrete fence posts laid on the ground. Good ventilation, they can't
rot. You can often find damaged ones cheap.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In message , TMC
writes

"larkim" wrote in message
news:13479677.4844.1331041726856.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbux23...
Having spent all last weekend tearing down and cutting up an old
shed, I now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

The "base" that the existing shed was on was merely leveled ground
with apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a
barrier. Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

The shed manufacturers have been fairly non-committal about what they
want as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do
them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or
pitfalls to avoid.

I've got quite a few spare paving flags lying around, so very tempted
to use those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to
consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Any help gratefully received!

Matt

A regularly discussed topic here

100mm concrete base (DPC under concrete to stop water draining down
whilst setting) is the easiest and most durable

When set just drop the shed floor on to it

I've never liked the shed base just being laid onto a concrete/slab base
- seems to be asking for the cross members to rot. I like better
ventilation.


Concrete blocks with wooden bearers at 500mm centres at right angles to
the shed floor 'joists' cheaper but more trouble to get level all over


That's basically what I did in the old house. Can't say I thought it was
hard to get it level. Less work I'd say than laying slabs or a concrete
base.
--
Chris French