what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended 5w 30
synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a load of
10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in mind it will
only be used for six months in the summer.

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:24:44 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended 5w
30 synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a
load of 10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in
mind it will only be used for six months in the summer.

Depends on the engine.

Viscosity-wise, some - especially those that require thin oils like 5w30
- can have all sorts of problems if used with thicker oil.

Base-stock-wise, again depending on the engine, there shouldn't be any
great difference between mineral and semi-synth, except you'll want to
change it more quickly. If it's a turbo, though, I really wouldn't - the
heat of the turbo may very well cause it to carbonise in relatively short
order.

For the price of even five litres of mineral (so cheap) oil, why risk it?
Just chuck it on freecycle or in the lawnmower or even take it down the
tip.

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:24:44 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended 5w
30 synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a
load of 10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in
mind it will only be used for six months in the summer.

Depends on the engine.

Viscosity-wise, some - especially those that require thin oils like 5w30
- can have all sorts of problems if used with thicker oil.

Base-stock-wise, again depending on the engine, there shouldn't be any
great difference between mineral and semi-synth, except you'll want to
change it more quickly. If it's a turbo, though, I really wouldn't - the
heat of the turbo may very well cause it to carbonise in relatively short
order.

For the price of even five litres of mineral (so cheap) oil, why risk it?
Just chuck it on freecycle or in the lawnmower or even take it down the
tip.

but I have 50L of it !!!

the engine is a 3.8 V6 ford essex (canada) manufactured 1995 and is prown
to head gasket failure ...... Perhaps I shouldn't risk it then...ta

"Jim at the Common Riding" wrote in message
...

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:24:44 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended 5w
30 synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a
load of 10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in
mind it will only be used for six months in the summer.

Depends on the engine.

Viscosity-wise, some - especially those that require thin oils like 5w30
- can have all sorts of problems if used with thicker oil.

Base-stock-wise, again depending on the engine, there shouldn't be any
great difference between mineral and semi-synth, except you'll want to
change it more quickly. If it's a turbo, though, I really wouldn't - the
heat of the turbo may very well cause it to carbonise in relatively short
order.

For the price of even five litres of mineral (so cheap) oil, why risk it?
Just chuck it on freecycle or in the lawnmower or even take it down the
tip.

but I have 50L of it !!!

the engine is a 3.8 V6 ford essex (canada) manufactured 1995 and is prown
to head gasket failure ...... Perhaps I shouldn't risk it then...ta

prone...

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:59:04 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

For the price of even five litres of mineral (so cheap) oil, why risk
it?
Just chuck it on freecycle or in the lawnmower or even take it down the
tip.

but I have 50L of it !!!

Ah...

the engine is a 3.8 V6 ford essex (canada) manufactured 1995

You might be better off asking in a North American group, then, where
they've actually seen that engine.

and is prown to head gasket failure

Can't see the difference being particularly significant to HG life.

TBH, in something of that era and understressedness - especially given
the age of design - I'd probably be quite happy to just do it - but I'd
want to find out if there was a particular reason that viscosity was
recommended. 5w30 is REALLY thin for a '90s lump.

On Sun, 7 Jun 2015 16:05:20 +0000 (UTC)
Adrian wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:59:04 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

For the price of even five litres of mineral (so cheap) oil, why
risk it?
Just chuck it on freecycle or in the lawnmower or even take it
down the tip.

but I have 50L of it !!!

Ah...

the engine is a 3.8 V6 ford essex (canada) manufactured 1995

You might be better off asking in a North American group, then, where
they've actually seen that engine.

and is prown to head gasket failure

Can't see the difference being particularly significant to HG life.

TBH, in something of that era and understressedness - especially
given the age of design - I'd probably be quite happy to just do it -
but I'd want to find out if there was a particular reason that
viscosity was recommended. 5w30 is REALLY thin for a '90s lump.

When I lived in Michigan, 5W30 was the standard oil.

--
Davey.

"Chris Hogg" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 7 Jun 2015 16:05:20 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:
but I'd want to find out if there was a particular reason that viscosity
was
recommended. 5w30 is REALLY thin for a '90s lump.

Parts of Canada can get awfully cold in the winter...

no... no... that is what they call the engine....I'm in the near of Glasgow
......

"Jonno" wrote in message
...
Jim at the Common Riding scribbled


what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended 5w
30
synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a load
of
10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in mind it will
only be used for six months in the summer.


Will they mix or do you have to completely remove all traces of your
current oil.


I will change the oil and filter until I use the 50L up.....then go back to
5w 30 semi ....

"Chris Hogg" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 7 Jun 2015 18:35:58 +0100, "Jim at the Common Riding"
wrote:


"Chris Hogg" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 7 Jun 2015 16:05:20 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:
but I'd want to find out if there was a particular reason that viscosity
was
recommended. 5w30 is REALLY thin for a '90s lump.

Parts of Canada can get awfully cold in the winter...

no... no... that is what they call the engine....I'm in the near of
Glasgow
.....

Oops! LMAO!

Chris

but shirley the 5w end is good in very cold weather ????

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:24:44 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended 5w
30 synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a
load of 10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in
mind it will only be used for six months in the summer.

Depends on the engine.

Viscosity-wise, some - especially those that require thin oils like 5w30
- can have all sorts of problems if used with thicker oil.

Base-stock-wise, again depending on the engine, there shouldn't be any
great difference between mineral and semi-synth, except you'll want to
change it more quickly. If it's a turbo, though, I really wouldn't - the
heat of the turbo may very well cause it to carbonise in relatively short
order.

what about gaskets and rubber seals etc... will heavier mineral oil bugger
them up ? .....

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:20:14 +0100, Davey wrote:

TBH, in something of that era and understressedness - especially given
the age of design - I'd probably be quite happy to just do it -
but I'd want to find out if there was a particular reason that
viscosity was recommended. 5w30 is REALLY thin for a '90s lump.

When I lived in Michigan, 5W30 was the standard oil.

What was the standard change interval...? 3k miles?

Gawd bless the 'merkins. Driving conditions that mean they could easily
and safely extend changes far more than here - yet they change oil almost
every time they switch the damned engine off...

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:53:33 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what about gaskets and rubber seals etc... will heavier mineral oil
bugger them up ? .....

Nope. But the thicker viscosity will give higher pressures which
_might_... Very unlikely, though.

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:20:14 +0100, Davey wrote:

TBH, in something of that era and understressedness - especially given
the age of design - I'd probably be quite happy to just do it -
but I'd want to find out if there was a particular reason that
viscosity was recommended. 5w30 is REALLY thin for a '90s lump.

When I lived in Michigan, 5W30 was the standard oil.

What was the standard change interval...? 3k miles?

Gawd bless the 'merkins. Driving conditions that mean they could easily
and safely extend changes far more than here - yet they change oil almost
every time they switch the damned engine off...

we just can't affort to ...

In article ,
Jim at the Common Riding wrote:
what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended 5w
30 synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a
load of 10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in
mind it will only be used for six months in the summer.

Unless it's a cutting edge design, you'll likely be fine. Just half the
recommended oil change interval.

--
*Indian Driver - Smoke signals only*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:35:58 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

but I'd want to find out if there was a particular reason that
viscosity was recommended. 5w30 is REALLY thin for a '90s lump.

Parts of Canada can get awfully cold in the winter...

no... no... that is what they call the engine...

Because it was developed and built there. So, yes, the recommended oil
may well be specced for cold winters and - in a car sold in the south of
the US - hot summers.

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 17:54:02 +0100, Jonno wrote:

Will they mix or do you have to completely remove all traces of your
current oil.

They'll mix. All engine oils Joe Average is ever likely to come across
are miscible.

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 18:53:33 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what about gaskets and rubber seals etc... will heavier mineral oil
bugger them up ? .....

Nope. But the thicker viscosity will give higher pressures which
_might_... Very unlikely, though.

OK thanks...I'm going to use the 10w 40 mineral up then ......

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 19:01:18 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

Gawd bless the 'merkins. Driving conditions that mean they could easily
and safely extend changes far more than here - yet they change oil
almost every time they switch the damned engine off...

we just can't affort to ...

You're buying your oil at the wrong place, then.

"Huge" wrote in message
...
On 2015-06-07, Jim at the Common Riding
wrote:

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:24:44 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended
5w
30 synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a
load of 10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in
mind it will only be used for six months in the summer.

Depends on the engine.

Viscosity-wise, some - especially those that require thin oils like 5w30
- can have all sorts of problems if used with thicker oil.

Base-stock-wise, again depending on the engine, there shouldn't be any
great difference between mineral and semi-synth, except you'll want to
change it more quickly. If it's a turbo, though, I really wouldn't - the
heat of the turbo may very well cause it to carbonise in relatively
short
order.

For the price of even five litres of mineral (so cheap) oil, why risk
it?
Just chuck it on freecycle or in the lawnmower or even take it down the
tip.

but I have 50L of it !!!

the engine is a 3.8 V6 ford essex (canada) manufactured 1995 and is
prown
to head gasket failure ...... Perhaps I shouldn't risk it then...ta

The Ford 'Essex' is a dark ages technology engine, and I'm amazed anyone
thinks it needs synthetic oil.

I'd use up the dead dinos. If it bothers you, change the oil every 3000
miles or every 3 months or soething similar.

Yes I'm still in the good old dark ages......will use it up ...

The Ford 'Essex' is a dark ages technology engine

The Canadian Essex is totally unrelated to the European Essex...

and I'm amazed anyone thinks it needs synthetic oil.

There's "needs" and there's "will benefit". Ain't such a thing as an
engine that won't benefit from better quality oil.

"Chris Hogg" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 7 Jun 2015 18:48:07 +0100, "Jim at the Common Riding"
wrote:


"Chris Hogg" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 7 Jun 2015 18:35:58 +0100, "Jim at the Common Riding"
wrote:


"Chris Hogg" wrote in message
m...
On Sun, 7 Jun 2015 16:05:20 +0000 (UTC), Adrian
wrote:
but I'd want to find out if there was a particular reason that
viscosity
was
recommended. 5w30 is REALLY thin for a '90s lump.

Parts of Canada can get awfully cold in the winter...

no... no... that is what they call the engine....I'm in the near of
Glasgow
.....

Oops! LMAO!

Chris

but shirley the 5w end is good in very cold weather ????

Yes, certainly. 5W is less viscous in cold weather than 10W. The W
stands for Winter BTW. A 5W-30 oil stays more fluid at low
temperatures than a 10W-40 oil, but the latter retains viscosity
better at high temperatures than the former. Good low-temperature
performance is important for starting in ice-cold winter weather if
the car's been outside overnight, and for the first mile or so
thereafter while the engine warms up. Retaining viscosity at high
temperatures would be important if you were planning to drive across
the Sahara in summer, for example.

I can't really see that you'd be troubled by using the 10W-40, unless
Glasgow is hit by an extraordinarily cold winter in 8 months time.

And don't call me Shirley


Chris

OK Chris.......wondered what the W stood for ... I will only be using the
convertible April to September so fine I was just really worried about seals
swelling ..... etc

bring back Castrol 20/50 for all cars ...

In article ,
Jonno wrote:
Adrian scribbled


On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 17:54:02 +0100, Jonno wrote:

Will they mix or do you have to completely remove all traces of your
current oil.

They'll mix. All engine oils Joe Average is ever likely to come across
are miscible.


Doh, I was thinking of veg oil.
The smell of racing - as was.

Castrol-R

You know hw the name Castrol originated?

CASToR OiL

--
From KT24 in Surrey

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

Huge wrote:
On 2015-06-07, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:
"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:24:44 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended 5w
30 synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a
load of 10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in
mind it will only be used for six months in the summer.
Depends on the engine.

Viscosity-wise, some - especially those that require thin oils like 5w30
- can have all sorts of problems if used with thicker oil.

Base-stock-wise, again depending on the engine, there shouldn't be any
great difference between mineral and semi-synth, except you'll want to
change it more quickly. If it's a turbo, though, I really wouldn't - the
heat of the turbo may very well cause it to carbonise in relatively short
order.

For the price of even five litres of mineral (so cheap) oil, why risk it?
Just chuck it on freecycle or in the lawnmower or even take it down the
tip.
but I have 50L of it !!!

the engine is a 3.8 V6 ford essex (canada) manufactured 1995 and is prown
to head gasket failure ...... Perhaps I shouldn't risk it then...ta

The Ford 'Essex' is a dark ages technology engine, and I'm amazed anyone
thinks it needs synthetic oil.

5w-30 became the recommended for *all* Ford & subsidiary (Jag/LR etc)
engines in the 90s in the wake of sticky lifters (or something) on the
Zetec engines. As you say I bet the 3.8 was designed for
mineral/semi-synth 10w-40 rather than fully synth anyway. Certainly
can't see it being phased by it.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

Scott M wrote:

5w-30 became the recommended for *all* Ford & subsidiary (Jag/LR etc)
engines in the 90s in the wake of sticky lifters (or something) on the
Zetec engines.

Meant to add: irrespective of what the engines had used previously.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

"Scott M" wrote in message
...
Huge wrote:
On 2015-06-07, Jim at the Common Riding
wrote:
"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:24:44 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended
5w
30 synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a
load of 10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in
mind it will only be used for six months in the summer.
Depends on the engine.

Viscosity-wise, some - especially those that require thin oils like
5w30
- can have all sorts of problems if used with thicker oil.

Base-stock-wise, again depending on the engine, there shouldn't be any
great difference between mineral and semi-synth, except you'll want to
change it more quickly. If it's a turbo, though, I really wouldn't -
the
heat of the turbo may very well cause it to carbonise in relatively
short
order.

For the price of even five litres of mineral (so cheap) oil, why risk
it?
Just chuck it on freecycle or in the lawnmower or even take it down the
tip.
but I have 50L of it !!!

the engine is a 3.8 V6 ford essex (canada) manufactured 1995 and is
prown to head gasket failure ...... Perhaps I shouldn't risk it
then...ta

The Ford 'Essex' is a dark ages technology engine, and I'm amazed anyone
thinks it needs synthetic oil.

5w-30 became the recommended for *all* Ford & subsidiary (Jag/LR etc)
engines in the 90s in the wake of sticky lifters (or something) on the
Zetec engines. As you say I bet the 3.8 was designed for
mineral/semi-synth 10w-40 rather than fully synth anyway. Certainly can't
see it being phased by it.

Scott

very reassuring...thanks...yes it has two camshafts in the block...none of
this modern stuff .....no rubber cam belts...tee hee

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

worth reading....says what most of you are saying ......

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 21:50:15 +0100, Scott M wrote:

5w-30 became the recommended for *all* Ford & subsidiary (Jag/LR etc)
engines in the 90s in the wake of sticky lifters (or something) on the
Zetec engines.

Meant to add: irrespective of what the engines had used previously.

Ah...

On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 23:18:14 +0100, Jonno wrote:

Castrol-R

Poseurs used to add it to their petrol.

Only in two-strokes, where not adding oil (of whatever flavour) to the
petrol rapidly led to disaster.

On 08/06/2015 08:08, Adrian wrote:
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 23:18:14 +0100, Jonno wrote:

Castrol-R

Poseurs used to add it to their petrol.

Only in two-strokes, where not adding oil (of whatever flavour) to the
petrol rapidly led to disaster.

No. In four stokes also (bit like adding a shot of RedeX). Only
problem was that it never gave the proper racing smell unless the engine
was really thrashed hard. (High speed and high load - just revving it in
the car park never worked)

--
CB

"CB" wrote in message ...
On 08/06/2015 08:08, Adrian wrote:
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 23:18:14 +0100, Jonno wrote:

Castrol-R

Poseurs used to add it to their petrol.

Only in two-strokes, where not adding oil (of whatever flavour) to the
petrol rapidly led to disaster.

No. In four stokes also (bit like adding a shot of RedeX). Only problem
was that it never gave the proper racing smell unless the engine was
really thrashed hard. (High speed and high load - just revving it in the
car park never worked)

CB

I see they are now advertising REDX on motorway gantries..THE REDX IS
MANDATORY ...tee hee

On Mon, 08 Jun 2015 08:48:47 +0100, CB wrote:

Castrol-R

Poseurs used to add it to their petrol.

Only in two-strokes, where not adding oil (of whatever flavour) to the
petrol rapidly led to disaster.

No. In four stokes also (bit like adding a shot of RedeX). Only
problem was that it never gave the proper racing smell unless the engine
was really thrashed hard. (High speed and high load - just revving it in
the car park never worked)

You ever tried adding oil to a four-stroke's tank? Even just a bit of
left-over two-smoke mix...?

It _really_ doesn't work very well AT ALL.

On 08/06/15 09:39, Huge wrote:
On 2015-06-07, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

"Scott M" wrote in message
...
Huge wrote:
On 2015-06-07, Jim at the Common Riding
wrote:
"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:24:44 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what are the real world problems on switching between the recommended
5w
30 synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a car? I want to use up a
load of 10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is likely to go?...Bearing in
mind it will only be used for six months in the summer.
Depends on the engine.

Viscosity-wise, some - especially those that require thin oils like
5w30
- can have all sorts of problems if used with thicker oil.

Base-stock-wise, again depending on the engine, there shouldn't be any
great difference between mineral and semi-synth, except you'll want to
change it more quickly. If it's a turbo, though, I really wouldn't -
the
heat of the turbo may very well cause it to carbonise in relatively
short
order.

For the price of even five litres of mineral (so cheap) oil, why risk
it?
Just chuck it on freecycle or in the lawnmower or even take it down the
tip.
but I have 50L of it !!!

the engine is a 3.8 V6 ford essex (canada) manufactured 1995 and is
prown to head gasket failure ...... Perhaps I shouldn't risk it
then...ta

The Ford 'Essex' is a dark ages technology engine, and I'm amazed anyone
thinks it needs synthetic oil.

5w-30 became the recommended for *all* Ford & subsidiary (Jag/LR etc)
engines in the 90s in the wake of sticky lifters (or something) on the
Zetec engines. As you say I bet the 3.8 was designed for
mineral/semi-synth 10w-40 rather than fully synth anyway. Certainly can't
see it being phased by it.

Scott

very reassuring...thanks...yes it has two camshafts in the block.

Err, no. The Essex is a single camshaft, pushrod engine. I can't remember
what oil I put in a my Mk1 Capri 3000S (too long ago), but it won't have
been synthetic, partly because I suspect it wasn't available & partly
because I wouldn't have been able to afford it.

The Essex was produced in many guises some of which were overhead cam -
mainly for performance cars.

Essex was really the name of that particular block - a V6 block
originally, then a V4 in some guises.

a good intro to ford production engines is here

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Ford_engines

The notorious OHC camshaft breaker was the pinto engine.



--
New Socialism consists essentially in being seen to have your heart in
the right place whilst your head is in the clouds and your hand is in
someone else's pocket.

In article , The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 08/06/15 09:39, Huge wrote:
On 2015-06-07, Jim at the Common Riding
wrote:

"Scott M" wrote in message
...
Huge wrote:
On 2015-06-07, Jim at the Common Riding
wrote:
"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 16:24:44 +0100, Jim at the Common Riding wrote:

what are the real world problems on switching between the
recommended 5w 30 synth blend oil and 10w 40 mineral oil in a
car? I want to use up a load of 10w 40 mineral oil in it. What is
likely to go?...Bearing in mind it will only be used for six
months in the summer.
Depends on the engine.

Viscosity-wise, some - especially those that require thin oils
like 5w30 - can have all sorts of problems if used with thicker
oil.

Base-stock-wise, again depending on the engine, there shouldn't be
any great difference between mineral and semi-synth, except you'll
want to change it more quickly. If it's a turbo, though, I really
wouldn't - the heat of the turbo may very well cause it to
carbonise in relatively short order.

For the price of even five litres of mineral (so cheap) oil, why
risk it? Just chuck it on freecycle or in the lawnmower or even
take it down the tip.
but I have 50L of it !!!

the engine is a 3.8 V6 ford essex (canada) manufactured 1995 and
is prown to head gasket failure ...... Perhaps I shouldn't risk it
then...ta

The Ford 'Essex' is a dark ages technology engine, and I'm amazed
anyone thinks it needs synthetic oil.

5w-30 became the recommended for *all* Ford & subsidiary (Jag/LR etc)
engines in the 90s in the wake of sticky lifters (or something) on
the Zetec engines. As you say I bet the 3.8 was designed for
mineral/semi-synth 10w-40 rather than fully synth anyway. Certainly
can't see it being phased by it.

Scott

very reassuring...thanks...yes it has two camshafts in the block.

Err, no. The Essex is a single camshaft, pushrod engine. I can't
remember what oil I put in a my Mk1 Capri 3000S (too long ago), but it
won't have been synthetic, partly because I suspect it wasn't available
& partly because I wouldn't have been able to afford it.

The Essex was produced in many guises some of which were overhead cam -
mainly for performance cars.

Essex was really the name of that particular block - a V6 block
originally, then a V4 in some guises.

a good intro to ford production engines is here

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Ford_engines

The notorious OHC camshaft breaker was the pinto engine.

I ran my Cortina III GT (pinto engine) for over 100,000 miles. Camshaft
never broke although the cam belt failed once.

--
From KT24 in Surrey

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On Mon, 08 Jun 2015 08:39:31 +0000, Huge wrote:

very reassuring...thanks...yes it has two camshafts in the block.

Err, no. The Essex is a single camshaft, pushrod engine. I can't
remember what oil I put in a my Mk1 Capri 3000S (too long ago)

So long ago that the Canadian Essex v6 hadn't even gone into production
(1981). The UK and Canadian "Essex" v6s are completely different lumps.
They don't even have the same V angle.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Essex_V6_engine_(UK)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Es...gine_(Canadian)

On 08/06/15 10:08, Adrian wrote:
On Mon, 08 Jun 2015 08:39:31 +0000, Huge wrote:

very reassuring...thanks...yes it has two camshafts in the block.

Err, no. The Essex is a single camshaft, pushrod engine. I can't
remember what oil I put in a my Mk1 Capri 3000S (too long ago)

So long ago that the Canadian Essex v6 hadn't even gone into production
(1981). The UK and Canadian "Essex" v6s are completely different lumps.
They don't even have the same V angle.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Essex_V6_engine_(UK)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Es...gine_(Canadian)

BUT they are still pushrod engines...


--
New Socialism consists essentially in being seen to have your heart in
the right place whilst your head is in the clouds and your hand is in
someone else's pocket.

In message , Chris Hogg
writes

I can't really see that you'd be troubled by using the 10W-40, unless
Glasgow is hit by an extraordinarily cold winter in 8 months time.

A distinct possibility, apparently. El Niño, it is said, is all set for
a repeat of the cold snowy winters we experienced five or six years ago.
That means life as we know it comes to a complete standstill south of
Newcastle, but up here in Aberdeenshire life will continue as normal.
Those in Glasgow will just chuck an extra Mars Bar in the deep fat
fryer.

And don't call me Shirley

Sorry Laverne.
--
Graeme

In article ,
Huge wrote:
I'd use up the dead dinos. If it bothers you, change the oil every 3000
miles or every 3 months or soething similar.

Last time I saw a car with 3000 mile oil change intervals was in the '50s,
and it had by-pass oil filtration, and white metal bearings. The same
engines changed to full flow (as all engines from the mid '50s did to
allow modern bearing shells) moved to 6000 mile oil changes.

--
*IF ONE SYNCHRONIZED SWIMMER DROWNS, DO THE REST DROWN TOO?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Jim at the Common Riding wrote:
bring back Castrol 20/50 for all cars ...

But which one? Snag with oils is the formulation changes, but the name can
stay the same.

And a 20/50 is going to waste power/reduce engine efficiency over a
thinner oil.

--
*Keep honking...I'm reloading.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Essex was produced in many guises some of which were overhead cam -
mainly for performance cars.

The UK Essex were V4 and V6 units. The V4 was designed for use in the
Transit van as it was shorter than an inline 4, so useful to allow forward
control cab shape without sacrificing cab space. It was a crude, cheap and
nasty unit. It was a modular design, so relatively easy to produce other
versions, like the V6.

German Ford produced the Cologne range of V4 and V6. These were a more
sophisticated design - and Ford UK used that V6 on the last Capri V6.

I've a feeling Cosworth made a racing version of the V6 Essex with OHC
heads - but this purely for a particular formula which specified that
block.

I don't think it was fitted to any production car.

--
*With her marriage she got a new name and a dress.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.