"F Murtz" wrote in message
eb.com...
Richard wrote:
"harryagain" wrote in message ...


"Richard" wrote in message
...
"John Williamson" wrote in message
...

On 19/07/2014 08:44, harryagain wrote:
"John Williamson" wrote in message
...
On 18/07/2014 16:34, harryagain wrote:
Lead apparently causes brain damage, even in very small amounts.
Must have a few here got a dose of it.


You do insist on feeding us the lines, don't you?


Ignorant as ever eh?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead#Health_effects


Yup, you missed my point again. :-)

Brain damage due to all the pencils he's sucked the lead from.

There is no lead in pencils ****-fer-brains.

LOL. You are so ****ing easy that I feel a tad guilty in exploiting your
stupidity:
http://idioms.thefreedictionary.com/put+lead+in+pencil

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkSmaFAuaH4

Barking mad.

"Richard" wrote in message
...
"harryagain" wrote in message ...


"Richard" wrote in message
.. .
"John Williamson" wrote in message
...

On 19/07/2014 08:44, harryagain wrote:
"John Williamson" wrote in message
...
On 18/07/2014 16:34, harryagain wrote:
Lead apparently causes brain damage, even in very small amounts.
Must have a few here got a dose of it.


You do insist on feeding us the lines, don't you?


Ignorant as ever eh?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead#Health_effects


Yup, you missed my point again. :-)

Brain damage due to all the pencils he's sucked the lead from.

There is no lead in pencils ****-fer-brains.

LOL. You are so ****ing easy that I feel a tad guilty in exploiting your
stupidity:
http://idioms.thefreedictionary.com/put+lead+in+pencil

Don't wriggle brain dead. Your ignorance is astounding.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Onetap wrote:
I'm fairly sure (not tried it) that if you subjected the joints to
pressure or tension tests, the copper tube would fail before a soft
soldered joint.

I've seen a soldered joint pop out when a pipe froze. Without damage
elsewhere. The joint appeared perfectly tinned.

Drivel.
I have never seen a soft soldered joint pull out under any circumstance.
I have seen badly made ones leak.

"Dennis@home" wrote in message
b.com...
On 23/07/2014 01:20, Onetap wrote:
On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:00:13 AM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:

I've seen a soldered joint pop out when a pipe froze. Without
damage

elsewhere. The joint appeared perfectly tinned.

I've seen a lot of soldered water pipes that had frozen and all of
those, without exception, had split longitudinally. The hoop stress
is twice the axial stress in a thin cylinder, ISTR.


I would think that the pipes don't freeze all along their length so there
is a good chance they will burst before enough of it has frozen to push
the ends out.

They can freeze near a joint and then there is a good chance the joint
will pop whatever type it is (except plastic).

Solder joints pop after one good freeze, compression joints creep so you
may get away with a small number of freezes but they will pop if not
reseated.

Total bollix.
I have hundreds of freeze ups. The pipe always splits axially after
bulging.
I have never seen a properly tightend commpression join pull out either.

"Dennis@home" wrote in message
b.com...
On 23/07/2014 05:09, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/07/2014 16:55, Dennis@home wrote:
On 21/07/2014 05:58, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/07/2014 22:35, Dennis@home wrote:


You should use a threaded joint designed to be disassembled for that
job.

Not much use once installed in a run of pipe work and you can't rotate
the bit you need to disassemble. Also not so easy to thread standard
copper pipe!


Tap connectors are threaded joints designed to be disassembled and
reassembled. You don't have to thread the pipe.

Tap connectors are not a universal replacement for compression fittings
though, so not sure why you bring them up.


Because it is a common type of joint designed to be disassembled, without
needing to thread the pipe or be able to rotate it, compression aren't
designed for disassembly and if someone has overdone it they leak when you
put them back. It's quite easy for someone to over tighten them and damage
the pipe.

Full of bollix as per usual.
If you want to be able to dissemble a pipe the correct fitting to use is a
union.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-Unions-131000

Threaded joints rapidly expend the female side and cease to be water/gas
tight if tightened a few times.

In article ,
harryagain wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Onetap wrote:
I'm fairly sure (not tried it) that if you subjected the joints to
pressure or tension tests, the copper tube would fail before a soft
soldered joint.

I've seen a soldered joint pop out when a pipe froze. Without damage
elsewhere. The joint appeared perfectly tinned.

Drivel.
I have never seen a soft soldered joint pull out under any circumstance.

You claim to have seen everything that could possibly happen? Are you God
- or just NP?

Watch my lips. That's what happened. I don't care if you've not seen it.

I have seen badly made ones leak.

Then you need to learn how to solder properly. The only leak I've ever had
with capillary was where the fitting had a pin hole.

Oh - this one wasn't leaking before.

--
*It IS as bad as you think, and they ARE out to get you.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thursday, July 24, 2014 6:34:34 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:

Total bollix.

I have hundreds of freeze ups. The pipe always splits axially after

bulging.

Unlikely that a soldered joint would fail before the tube split IMHO, but you're assuming the joint had been properly made.

It's still possible if it hadn't been done correctly (wrong clearances, wrong solder, solder overheated & degraded, incompatible fittings, etc.,).
There're just so many ways to cock it up.

In article , harryagain
scribeth thus

"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 23/07/2014 01:20, Onetap wrote:
On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:00:13 AM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:

I've seen a soldered joint pop out when a pipe froze. Without
damage

elsewhere. The joint appeared perfectly tinned.

I've seen a lot of soldered water pipes that had frozen and all of
those, without exception, had split longitudinally. The hoop stress
is twice the axial stress in a thin cylinder, ISTR.


I would think that the pipes don't freeze all along their length so there
is a good chance they will burst before enough of it has frozen to push
the ends out.

They can freeze near a joint and then there is a good chance the joint
will pop whatever type it is (except plastic).

Solder joints pop after one good freeze, compression joints creep so you
may get away with a small number of freezes but they will pop if not
reseated.



Total bollix.
I have hundreds of freeze ups. The pipe always splits axially after
bulging.
I have never seen a properly tightend commpression join pull out either.



So thats were all that insulation came from for the "'arry" insulated
box house then, all nicked off poor pipes left to freeze;(...


--
Tony Sayer

On 24/07/14 11:35, Onetap wrote:
On Thursday, July 24, 2014 6:34:34 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:

Total bollix.

I have hundreds of freeze ups. The pipe always splits axially after

bulging.

Unlikely that a soldered joint would fail before the tube split IMHO, but you're assuming the joint had been properly made.

It's still possible if it hadn't been done correctly (wrong clearances, wrong solder, solder overheated & degraded, incompatible fittings, etc.,).
There're just so many ways to cock it up.

especially with 'silver solder' :-)



--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On 24/07/2014 06:44, harryagain wrote:

Full of bollix as per usual.
If you want to be able to dissemble a pipe the correct fitting to use is a
union.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-Unions-131000

Threaded joints rapidly expend the female side and cease to be water/gas
tight if tightened a few times.



Idiot, a tap connector is a union!
The thread has nothing to do with the seal.

In article ,
Onetap wrote:
On Thursday, July 24, 2014 6:34:34 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:

Total bollix.

I have hundreds of freeze ups. The pipe always splits axially after

bulging.

Unlikely that a soldered joint would fail before the tube split IMHO,
but you're assuming the joint had been properly made.

It's still possible if it hadn't been done correctly (wrong clearances,
wrong solder, solder overheated & degraded, incompatible fittings,
etc.,). There're just so many ways to cock it up.

It might also depend on how well the pipework was restrained - and where
it started to freeze.

In this case the pipework was pretty free to move and the joint which
popped an elbow closest to the outside door - which had a big gap at the
bottom and top.

I've no idea how well it was made and what type of solder was used, etc.
But it did look well tinned after it came apart.

--
*The closest I ever got to a 4.0 in school was my blood alcohol content*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Onetap" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, July 24, 2014 6:34:34 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:

Total bollix.

I have hundreds of freeze ups. The pipe always splits axially after

bulging.

Unlikely that a soldered joint would fail before the tube split IMHO, but
you're assuming the joint had been properly made.

It's still possible if it hadn't been done correctly (wrong clearances,
wrong solder, solder overheated & degraded, incompatible fittings, etc.,).
There're just so many ways to cock it up.

Bollix. They are virtually foolproof.
Solder flux and heat.
The only real danger is underheating and failing to clean the copper
properly..
& even then a leak is the likely outcome.

"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 24/07/2014 06:44, harryagain wrote:

Full of bollix as per usual.
If you want to be able to dissemble a pipe the correct fitting to use is
a
union.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-Unions-131000

Threaded joints rapidly expend the female side and cease to be water/gas
tight if tightened a few times.



Idiot, a tap connector is a union!
The thread has nothing to do with the seal.

A tap connector is not a union ****-fer-brains.
Don't you know the difference between parallel and taper threads?

On 25/07/2014 21:03, harryagain wrote:
"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 24/07/2014 06:44, harryagain wrote:

Full of bollix as per usual.
If you want to be able to dissemble a pipe the correct fitting to use is
a
union.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-Unions-131000

Threaded joints rapidly expend the female side and cease to be water/gas
tight if tightened a few times.



Idiot, a tap connector is a union!
The thread has nothing to do with the seal.

A tap connector is not a union ****-fer-brains.
Don't you know the difference between parallel and taper threads?



unions are parallel and so are tap connectors, don't you know anything
about what you post about?

"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 25/07/2014 21:03, harryagain wrote:
"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 24/07/2014 06:44, harryagain wrote:

Full of bollix as per usual.
If you want to be able to dissemble a pipe the correct fitting to use
is
a
union.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-Unions-131000

Threaded joints rapidly expend the female side and cease to be
water/gas
tight if tightened a few times.



Idiot, a tap connector is a union!
The thread has nothing to do with the seal.

A tap connector is not a union ****-fer-brains.
Don't you know the difference between parallel and taper threads?



unions are parallel and so are tap connectors, don't you know anything
about what you post about?

Unions (where threaded) have taper threads.
The mating surfaces have either a soft joint or are metal and conical.
Here you are ****-fer-brains.
Read the second line.
http://www.pipefittingsdirect.co.uk/.../en-uk/d8.html

harryagain wrote:
"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 25/07/2014 21:03, harryagain wrote:
"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 24/07/2014 06:44, harryagain wrote:

Full of bollix as per usual.
If you want to be able to dissemble a pipe the correct fitting to use
is
a
union.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-Unions-131000

Threaded joints rapidly expend the female side and cease to be
water/gas
tight if tightened a few times.



Idiot, a tap connector is a union!
The thread has nothing to do with the seal.

A tap connector is not a union ****-fer-brains.
Don't you know the difference between parallel and taper threads?



unions are parallel and so are tap connectors, don't you know anything
about what you post about?

Unions (where threaded) have taper threads.
The mating surfaces have either a soft joint or are metal and conical.
Here you are ****-fer-brains.
Read the second line.
http://www.pipefittingsdirect.co.uk/.../en-uk/d8.html


Which applies to the pipe thread, not the union coupling thread.
this would not apply to soldered unions.

F Murtz wrote:
harryagain wrote:
"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 25/07/2014 21:03, harryagain wrote:
"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 24/07/2014 06:44, harryagain wrote:

Full of bollix as per usual.
If you want to be able to dissemble a pipe the correct fitting to use
is
a
union.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-Unions-131000

Threaded joints rapidly expend the female side and cease to be
water/gas
tight if tightened a few times.



Idiot, a tap connector is a union!
The thread has nothing to do with the seal.

A tap connector is not a union ****-fer-brains.
Don't you know the difference between parallel and taper threads?



unions are parallel and so are tap connectors, don't you know anything
about what you post about?

Unions (where threaded) have taper threads.
The mating surfaces have either a soft joint or are metal and conical.
Here you are ****-fer-brains.
Read the second line.
http://www.pipefittingsdirect.co.uk/.../en-uk/d8.html


Which applies to the pipe thread, not the union coupling thread.
this would not apply to soldered unions.

OOPS in case we get pedantic, the taper is in connection with the
threads that connect the pipe to union.

On 26/07/2014 06:24, harryagain wrote:
"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 25/07/2014 21:03, harryagain wrote:
"Dennis@home" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 24/07/2014 06:44, harryagain wrote:

Full of bollix as per usual.
If you want to be able to dissemble a pipe the correct fitting to use
is
a
union.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-Unions-131000

Threaded joints rapidly expend the female side and cease to be
water/gas
tight if tightened a few times.



Idiot, a tap connector is a union!
The thread has nothing to do with the seal.

A tap connector is not a union ****-fer-brains.
Don't you know the difference between parallel and taper threads?



unions are parallel and so are tap connectors, don't you know anything
about what you post about?

Unions (where threaded) have taper threads.
The mating surfaces have either a soft joint or are metal and conical.
Here you are ****-fer-brains.
Read the second line.
http://www.pipefittingsdirect.co.uk/.../en-uk/d8.html



Don't be stupid, if the thread were tapered you couldn't use a soft
mating surface to make the seal.
Go and learn something instead of spouting more cr@p.

In article ,
Onetap wrote:
On Thursday, July 24, 2014 6:34:34 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:

Total bollix.

I have hundreds of freeze ups. The pipe always splits axially after

bulging.

Unlikely that a soldered joint would fail before the tube split IMHO,
but you're assuming the joint had been properly made.

Just been with my brother who lives in the N of Scotland and asked him if
he'd ever seen this - since frozen pipes are going to be more common there
than here. And yes - he's had exactly that. The plumber who fixed it
didn't express surprise or mention how lucky he was to only have to pay
for such a simple repair. So it would be safe to assume it is common
enough.

It's still possible if it hadn't been done correctly (wrong clearances,
wrong solder, solder overheated & degraded, incompatible fittings,
etc.,). There're just so many ways to cock it up.

So it would seem there are several 'experts' on here who are anything but.

--
*Born free - taxed to death *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
What would be nice to know - and I'm sure we never will - is just why it
seems to be so common in Oz, since soft soldering works perfectly well in
the UK.

Advantages of soft soldering.

1) Soft solder and flux is relatively cheap.
2) The heat source needed is also cheap - a blowlamp capable with coping
with domestic sizes can be bought for a few quid - although pros will
prefer professional types which have lower running costs.
3) A soldered joint can be disassembled if needed - provided the pipes are
dry.

Disadvantages

1) Requires some skill.
2) Materials to be soldered must be clean.

Advantages of brazing.

1) Stronger.

Since a soft-soldered end-feed join is stronger than the copper pipe,
I can't see any point making it stronger still.

(If you pull on one to destruction, it's the copper pipe which
stretches and breaks - the join doesn't break.)

Disadvantages.

1) Cost of tools required. So high might put it outside DIY.
2) Cost of materials.


--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Saturday, July 26, 2014 6:24:05 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:
"Dennis@home" wrote in message

eb.com...

On 25/07/2014 21:03, harryagain wrote:

"Dennis@home" wrote in message

eb.com...

On 24/07/2014 06:44, harryagain wrote:



Full of bollix as per usual.

If you want to be able to dissemble a pipe the correct fitting to use

is

a

union.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-Unions-131000



Threaded joints rapidly expend the female side and cease to be

water/gas

tight if tightened a few times.







Idiot, a tap connector is a union!

The thread has nothing to do with the seal.



A tap connector is not a union ****-fer-brains.

Don't you know the difference between parallel and taper threads?







unions are parallel and so are tap connectors, don't you know anything

about what you post about?



Unions (where threaded) have taper threads.

The mating surfaces have either a soft joint or are metal and conical.

Here you are ****-fer-brains.

Read the second line.

http://www.pipefittingsdirect.co.uk/.../en-uk/d8.html


Much as I hate to agree with anything Dennis says, it's a taper seat, Harry, not taper thread.

The union threads are parallel, but the pipe threads by which the 2 parts of the union are fixed to the pipe are usually BSP taper.

Some unions have flat faces and require a washer to seal.

Some (Navy pattern) have a spherical bronze seat and don't need a washer.

On Friday, July 25, 2014 8:58:39 PM UTC+1, harry wrote:


Bollix. They are virtually foolproof.

Solder flux and heat.

Virtually foolproof when you've done a few. A DIYer making a first-ever attempt with whatever material are to hand is likely to cock it up.

The only real danger is underheating and failing to clean the copper

properly..

& even then a leak is the likely outcome.

You think so?
Well, underheating probably might not allow the solder to penetrate the joint.

But there's overheating as well.
Use of wire wool.
Wrong solder (lead, electronic resin-cored, body solder, etc.,),
wrong flux,
no flux,
imperial pipes and metric fittings,
metric tubes and imperial fittings,
wrong size fittings,
pipe swaged out the wrong size,
flux not cleaned off or flux residues not flushed out, etc.,

On Monday, July 28, 2014 9:35:10 PM UTC+1, Onetap wrote:
On Saturday, July 26, 2014 6:24:05 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:

The union threads are parallel, but the pipe threads by which the 2 parts of the union are fixed to the pipe are usually BSP taper.



Some unions have flat faces and require a washer to seal.



Some (Navy pattern) have a spherical bronze seat and don't need a washer.

Picture;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piping_...ubung_4072.jpg

Lots of other types of unions, though.

On Sunday, July 27, 2014 11:29:07 PM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

It's still possible if it hadn't been done correctly (wrong clearances,

wrong solder, solder overheated & degraded, incompatible fittings,

etc.,). There're just so many ways to cock it up.



So it would seem there are several 'experts' on here who are anything but.


Hmmmmmm.

I'm not sure whether that was directed at me, but since you've quoted my post, it seems that it probably was.

It seems peculiarly nasty, seeing as I was the only person who voiced the opinion that your dismantled joint story might be true.

FYI, I have not claimed, on here, to be an expert, I am merely posting stuff that I happen to know about.

As can be seen from the content of my posts, that includes a ****load of stuff about pipes and fittings.

I repeat, I have seen many frozen pipes, I have never seen any joint separate as you describe. I think it unlikely.

So it would seem there are several 'experts' on here who are anything but.

There are several people on here who quote fantasy friends and brothers to support their opinions.

The simple fact is, I've never seen a frozen pipe fail in that manner.

In article ,
Onetap wrote:
On Sunday, July 27, 2014 11:29:07 PM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

It's still possible if it hadn't been done correctly (wrong
clearances,

wrong solder, solder overheated & degraded, incompatible fittings,

etc.,). There're just so many ways to cock it up.



So it would seem there are several 'experts' on here who are anything
but.


Hmmmmmm.

I'm not sure whether that was directed at me, but since you've quoted my
post, it seems that it probably was.

Not directed at you. Sadly, short of quoting every single post in a
thread, it can be difficult to give a feel of what you're replying to. It
was more harry's 'bollox' I intended including.

It seems peculiarly nasty, seeing as I was the only person who voiced
the opinion that your dismantled joint story might be true.

Ah. So you do think I might have been making it up. Say no more.

FYI, I have not claimed, on here, to be an expert, I am merely posting
stuff that I happen to know about.

As can be seen from the content of my posts, that includes a ****load
of stuff about pipes and fittings.

I repeat, I have seen many frozen pipes, I have never seen any joint
separate as you describe. I think it unlikely.

Strange that my brother has had exactly the same.

So it would seem there are several 'experts' on here who are anything
but.

There are several people on here who quote fantasy friends and brothers
to support their opinions.

The simple fact is, I've never seen a frozen pipe fail in that manner.

I've never claimed to have seen everything. But when I have seen something
I usually reckon it's unlikely to be unique.

--
*Arkansas State Motto: Don't Ask, Don't Tell, Don't Laugh.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tuesday, July 29, 2014 12:42:58 AM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,

It seems peculiarly nasty, seeing as I was the only person who voiced

the opinion that your dismantled joint story might be true.



Ah. So you do think I might have been making it up. Say no more.

I thought/think it is unlikely. I have not examined every pipe that has ever frozen.

I did a search on Google Images for "frozen pipe burst".

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=fr...1600&bih=7 75

Of the frozen burst pipes shown, I'd say 99% show the classic bulge and axial split.

Howevee there was an American site which showed two joints that had separated as you described.

http://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pi...e_Patterns.php

Both the photos show joints that IMHO had been badly soldered, one does not appear to be fully tinned.

As I said, maybe possible, but unlikely. It may be more likely with thick-walled soft annealed tube, rather than the half-hard Table X type we're familiar with.

I've no idea what type of pipe the Americans use and can't be arsed to look it up.







FYI, I have not claimed, on here, to be an expert, I am merely posting

stuff that I happen to know about.



As can be seen from the content of my posts, that includes a ****load

of stuff about pipes and fittings.



I repeat, I have seen many frozen pipes, I have never seen any joint

separate as you describe. I think it unlikely.



Strange that my brother has had exactly the same.



So it would seem there are several 'experts' on here who are anything

but.



There are several people on here who quote fantasy friends and brothers

to support their opinions.



The simple fact is, I've never seen a frozen pipe fail in that manner.



I've never claimed to have seen everything. But when I have seen something

I usually reckon it's unlikely to be unique.



--

*Arkansas State Motto: Don't Ask, Don't Tell, Don't Laugh.



Dave Plowman London SW

To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 21/07/2014 23:44, YAPH wrote:
If it's just been heated by the combi it's fluid category 2 which is
fluid category 1 - wholesome water - whose aesthetic quality is impaired
owing to a change in its temperature!

http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1...chedule/1/made

Thanks John. I'll go and have my impaired cup of tea...

--
Rod

In article ,
Onetap wrote:
Both the photos show joints that IMHO had been badly soldered, one
does not appear to be fully tinned.

As I said, maybe possible, but unlikely. It may be more likely with
thick-walled soft annealed tube, rather than the half-hard Table X
type we're familiar with.

It's quite possible the one here that pulled apart was the older thick
walled copper, which was the norm in the UK once. That could be bent
easily using a spring, without annealing first. Dunno what it was at my
brother's house - but it was also built long before modern tube came on
the scene.

I bought this house in the '70s, and the plumbing to the outside loo was
done before I bought it - but not original which would have been lead. I'd
guess it was done when the high level cistern was replaced with a new
plastic one. The actual bowl is original Victorian. When I re-did the loo
I found a genuine Thomas T cistern at a salvage yard and fitted that. ;-)

I was taking issue with the likes of harry and NP who just because they
have never come across it said it was impossible. Therefore I was lying.

--
*Keep honking...I'm reloading.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes

Snip/

Frost pulled solder joints..
I was taking issue with the likes of harry and NP who just because they
have never come across it said it was impossible. Therefore I was lying.

I too have seen this. Probably end feed and thick wall. No current
examples to check.

--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes

Snip/

Frost pulled solder joints..
I was taking issue with the likes of harry and NP who just because they
have never come across it said it was impossible. Therefore I was lying.

I too have seen this. Probably end feed and thick wall. No current
examples to check.

Right. I'm quite happy to accept the modern stuff is more likely to split.
Which makes it even more pointless to use a stronger 'solder'. ;-)

--
*7up is good for you, signed snow white*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.