I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.
This has to go out of the house and back again,
so I have to drill 2 holes in window-frames.

I'd like to keep the holes as small as possible,
so I am wondering if I can cut the telephone wire, and re-join it,
either just by binding each of the 4 wires together,
or by soldering them.
Would this give a good enough connection for ADSL?

The alternative is to drill 12mm holes to allow the RJ-11 (or RJ-12)
connector through.

I know I could get a crimper to do this,
but I have to do it this weekend,
and don't have access to any sophisticated electronic store.

Any advice or suggestions gratefully received.


--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

On Jan 8, 1:22*am, Timothy Murphy wrote:
I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.
This has to go out of the house and back again,
so I have to drill 2 holes in window-frames.

I'd like to keep the holes as small as possible,
so I am wondering if I can cut the telephone wire, and re-join it,
either just by binding each of the 4 wires together,
or by soldering them.

Yes, but if you're going that route use a proper telephone junction
box for the join.


Would this give a good enough connection for ADSL?

Yes, if done properly, but you should really use Cat5 cable.


I know I could get a crimper to do this,
but I have to do it this weekend,
and don't have access to any sophisticated electronic store.

You don't need a sophisticated electronic store for these things.

On Jan 8, 1:22*am, Timothy Murphy wrote:
I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.

Don't do it. Always place the ADSL filter close to the router. Always
use an NTE faceplate for ADSL, not a microfilter. Don't hand-crimp
RJ11s onto cables, never crimp them onto flexible cables.

I'd put my NTE (master socket) somewhere I can also put a router, then
run 10BaseT (or wi-fi!) from there to any computers. If I have to move
the NTE to achieve this, I'd do it, and I';d do it by running the
awkward cabling as my phone drop cable.

On Fri, 7 Jan 2011 18:09:06 -0800 (PST), John MacLeod wrote:

Yes, but if you're going that route use a proper telephone junction
box for the join.

Or better still install the modem/router at/near the NTE before the
link to the computer needs to go outside and run ethernet around to
the computer.

Would this give a good enough connection for ADSL?

Yes, if done properly, but you should really use Cat5 cable.

Naw Cat3 (telephone cable) is fine if just carring the ADSL/POTS
circuit. Ethernet as above should be Cat5 or better of course.

I know I could get a crimper to do this, but I have to do it this
weekend, and don't have access to any sophisticated electronic
store.

You don't need a sophisticated electronic store for these things.

Quite, even Maplin have them. B-) And of course many of the DIY
sheds these days along with cable and plugs.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article , Timothy Murphy
writes
I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.
This has to go out of the house and back again,
so I have to drill 2 holes in window-frames.

I'd like to keep the holes as small as possible,
so I am wondering if I can cut the telephone wire, and re-join it,
either just by binding each of the 4 wires together,
or by soldering them.
Would this give a good enough connection for ADSL?

The alternative is to drill 12mm holes to allow the RJ-11 (or RJ-12)
connector through.

I know I could get a crimper to do this,
but I have to do it this weekend,
and don't have access to any sophisticated electronic store.

Any advice or suggestions gratefully received.

You really want to be using external telephone cable for the outside
leg:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...nal/index.html

or
http://tinyurl.com/32bj5da

but you may be able to get that locally.

These are ideal for joints (inside):
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GPJB1.html

They use a special tool for punching wires in (cheap one use tools are
avail, don't try to bodge with a screwdriver) but screw terminal
versions are avail.

Round twisted pair telephone cable is fine, that is the same stuff that
is used from the exchange so it is fine for ADSL, whether filtered off
or combined with voice.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

Andy Dingley wrote:

On Jan 8, 1:22 am, Timothy Murphy wrote:
I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.

Don't do it. Always place the ADSL filter close to the router. Always
use an NTE faceplate for ADSL, not a microfilter.

Thanks for your response.
But the microfilter/splitter is provided by my supplier
(Telecom Italia); I wouldn't dare to change it.

I'd put my NTE (master socket) somewhere I can also put a router, then
run 10BaseT (or wi-fi!) from there to any computers. If I have to move
the NTE to achieve this, I'd do it, and I';d do it by running the
awkward cabling as my phone drop cable.

Several people have suggested that the modem/router
should be near the input splitter.
I've tried with the telephone cable connection from splitter to modem
both short and long (10 metres) and it didn't seem to make any difference.

The problem with a short cable is that a WiFi modem is supplied,
and the WiFi signal does not get to where it is needed
if the modem is near the input.

The system worked fine with a long cable for 2 years;
it has just started to have problems, with the ADSL connection
being dropped every hour or so, and only re-starting
when the modem is switched off and on.
This happens with long and short cables in exactly the same way.

Telecom Italia swapped the modem, but this made no difference.
I'm pretty sure the problem lies with the connection outside
from the exchange; but it is more or less impossible
to get Telecom Italia to check this.




--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

fred wrote:

You really want to be using external telephone cable for the outside
leg:
http://www.tlc-
direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Index/Telephone_Cable_External/index.html

Thanks for your very helpful response.
I'll follow your advice re external cable.

For the moment I've solved the problem (unsatisfactorily)
by moving the desktop down to the telephone input into the house,
so I don't need an outside wire at all.


--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

In article e0be95a1-6052-4445-8141-
, "Andy Dingley" wrote:

Don't do it. Always place the ADSL filter close to the router. Always
use an NTE faceplate for ADSL, not a microfilter. Don't hand-crimp
RJ11s onto cables, never crimp them onto flexible cables.

Agreed, if at all possible. My recommendation for the OP is to run a new
Cat5e Ethernet cable from a new wall-mounted RJ45 socket near the phone
master socket to a new wall-mounted RJ45 socket near the computer. Use
whatever route you prefer for the cable, preferably keeping it away from
mains cable - and animals... Run 2 or 4 cables while you are at it. See:
http://www.solwise.co.uk/networking_sundries_modular-connectors.htm
This will use solid wire Cat5e cable, to punch-down blocks at the back of
the new wall sockets. The punch-down tool you'll need can be the "use
once and throw away" type, or the better "pro" type. Both are he
http://www.solwise.co.uk/networking_sundries_krohn-tools.htm. As
always, other suppliers are available. When terminating the cables, make
sure you leave plenty of slack so you can remake the joints if necessary
in future.

You then use low-cost, ready-made, stranded Ethernet patch cables between
the router and wall socket at one end and another between the wall socket
and computer at the other, plus any other network equipment you acquire
in future. This avoids you having to buy *and learn to use* an RJ45 crimp
tool, lengths of stranded Ethernet cable and the correct plugs...

As a more expensive (and for some, not a good idea...) suggestion is to
use a Homeplug network, also available from Solwise and others, in place
of the far better solution described above.

--
John W

John Weston wrote:

Run 2 or 4 cables while you are at it. See:
http://www.solwise.co.uk/networking_sundries_modular-connectors.htm
This will use solid wire Cat5e cable, to punch-down blocks at the back of
the new wall sockets. The punch-down tool you'll need can be the "use
once and throw away" type, or the better "pro" type. Both are he
http://www.solwise.co.uk/networking_sundries_krohn-tools.htm. As
always, other suppliers are available. When terminating the cables, make
sure you leave plenty of slack so you can remake the joints if necessary
in future.

You then use low-cost, ready-made, stranded Ethernet patch cables between
the router and wall socket at one end and another between the wall socket
and computer at the other, plus any other network equipment you acquire
in future. This avoids you having to buy *and learn to use* an RJ45 crimp
tool, lengths of stranded Ethernet cable and the correct plugs...

Thanks very much for your response.
Unfortunately I am not clear (even after googling for IDC connection)
exactly what the punch-down tool you mention does.
Is it essentially an ethernet crimping tool?

--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

Thanks very much for your response.
Unfortunately I am not clear (even after googling for IDC connection)
exactly what the punch-down tool you mention does.
Is it essentially an ethernet crimping tool?

Here is a clip that may help, in French unfortunately. It shows a full
size Krone block as used in telephone exchanges and larger installations
but the principal is the same. It is a professional punch down tool
that is shown which is also capable of cutting the loose end of the wire
at the same time as 'punching down' the connection.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrVDhgwMI8k

Timothy Murphy wrote:

The problem with a short cable is that a WiFi modem is supplied,
and the WiFi signal does not get to where it is needed
if the modem is near the input.

If it's the standard TI modem then it has an RJ45 socket on the back
that you can use for a wired connection to your own network.

TBH TI are such useless *******s and ADSL is so poor in Italy that I
ended up buying a router that can connect to a USB 3G dongle using the
TIM[1]38.8Mb/s 3g unit which was available from my local telephone shop
for EUR 150 for an annual contract with "unlimited" data. It only
achieves 7Mb/s in my location but that's way faster than the wired
connection.

Telecoms in Italy are generally messed up, and all of the staff at all
of the shops have got "Don't ask me, I don't give a toss" written on
their foreheads, so DIY is the only option for problem resolution.


[1] Yes, I know, see previous comments about "useless *******s" but the
TIM 3g deal was way better than anything from Vodafone or Wind so I went
for that.

In article , "Timothy Murphy"
wrote:

Thanks very much for your response.
Unfortunately I am not clear (even after googling for IDC connection)
exactly what the punch-down tool you mention does.
Is it essentially an ethernet crimping tool?

No, not a "crimping" tool, it's much simpler for the untrained. The
individual wire, without stripping the insulation, is pushed down a slot
between two blades at the back of the connector in the socket. The blades
cut through the insulation and into the surface of the solid wire exactly
where it is needed, making a "cold weld" at the touching points, so there
can be no future corrosion between the wire and the connector blade at
the joining points. If you ever need to disconnect the wire, you will
feel the resistance of the weld as you break it when you hook out the
wire. To remake the joint, you cut off the few mm used for the old
connection and push down a fresh part of the wire, so it can make a new
weld.

For more information, Google "insulation displacement connector" (=IDC,
sorry for the confusion.)
The pictures at http://www.hyperline.com/slide/kj5e/ are quite useful.
The punch-down tool is shown being used at step 7. My only criticism of
this site is that the wires are shown routed too neatly between the cut
end of the cable outer and the connection. The wires should all be of
equal length, and have enough slack for the repairs I've described.

--
John W

Timothy Murphy wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:

On Jan 8, 1:22 am, Timothy Murphy wrote:
I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.
Don't do it. Always place the ADSL filter close to the router. Always
use an NTE faceplate for ADSL, not a microfilter.

Thanks for your response.
But the microfilter/splitter is provided by my supplier
(Telecom Italia); I wouldn't dare to change it.

I'd put my NTE (master socket) somewhere I can also put a router, then
run 10BaseT (or wi-fi!) from there to any computers. If I have to move
the NTE to achieve this, I'd do it, and I';d do it by running the
awkward cabling as my phone drop cable.

Several people have suggested that the modem/router
should be near the input splitter.
I've tried with the telephone cable connection from splitter to modem
both short and long (10 metres) and it didn't seem to make any difference.

The problem with a short cable is that a WiFi modem is supplied,
and the WiFi signal does not get to where it is needed
if the modem is near the input.

The system worked fine with a long cable for 2 years;
it has just started to have problems, with the ADSL connection
being dropped every hour or so, and only re-starting
when the modem is switched off and on.

new router time then.

I have three routers 'gifted' to me that show that sort of behaviour.


This happens with long and short cables in exactly the same way.

Telecom Italia swapped the modem, but this made no difference.

I am surprised. or perhaps the one the swapped in was one they had
removed from someone else's premises with e same fault as your ;-)


I'm pretty sure the problem lies with the connection outside
from the exchange; but it is more or less impossible
to get Telecom Italia to check this.



Welcome to Italian electrics.

On 08/01/2011 15:15, Tim Streater wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrVDhgwMI8k

French, my arse. Russian, more like.


Given that the URL underneath is .pl I suspect Polish. You really don't
want to mix those up, the speakers of both languages won't like it.

Andy

Tim Streater wrote:
In article ,
Andy Champ wrote:

On 08/01/2011 15:15, Tim Streater wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrVDhgwMI8k

French, my arse. Russian, more like.


Given that the URL underneath is .pl I suspect Polish. You really
don't want to mix those up, the speakers of both languages won't like it.

I don't think I've heard Polish spoken enough to know what it sounds like.



You may well have a French rear, apologies for getting the language
wrong but it 'ain't English'!

John Weston wrote:

Unfortunately I am not clear (even after googling for IDC connection)
exactly what the punch-down tool you mention does.
Is it essentially an ethernet crimping tool?

No, not a "crimping" tool, it's much simpler for the untrained. The
individual wire, without stripping the insulation, is pushed down a slot
between two blades at the back of the connector in the socket. The blades
cut through the insulation and into the surface of the solid wire exactly
where it is needed, making a "cold weld" at the touching points, so there
can be no future corrosion between the wire and the connector blade at
the joining points. If you ever need to disconnect the wire, you will
feel the resistance of the weld as you break it when you hook out the
wire. To remake the joint, you cut off the few mm used for the old
connection and push down a fresh part of the wire, so it can make a new
weld.

Thanks very much; that makes it perfectly clear.
I don't recall coming across the term "punch-down" before -
probably shows my ignorance of the real world.

--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

Steve Firth wrote:

The problem with a short cable is that a WiFi modem is supplied,
and the WiFi signal does not get to where it is needed
if the modem is near the input.

If it's the standard TI modem then it has an RJ45 socket on the back
that you can use for a wired connection to your own network.

There are 5 people in the house using laptops,
so WiFi is more or less essential.

TBH TI are such useless *******s and ADSL is so poor in Italy

To be fair, it has worked perfectly for me for 2 years.
I agree that communicating with Telecom Italia is seriously stress-inducing.
Actually, I have found that Telecoms everywhere are pretty bad,
it seems that any company involved in communication is ipso facto
incapable of communicating with a human being.

I ended up buying a router that can connect to a USB 3G dongle using the
TIM[1]38.8Mb/s 3g unit which was available from my local telephone shop
for EUR 150 for an annual contract with "unlimited" data. It only
achieves 7Mb/s in my location but that's way faster than the wired
connection.

I thought of this, but a friend of mine here says the wireless connection -
perhaps just in this area - is not good.

Telecoms in Italy are generally messed up, and all of the staff at all
of the shops have got "Don't ask me, I don't give a toss" written on
their foreheads, so DIY is the only option for problem resolution.

Actually, quite a good electronics retailer (Compy) has just opened nearby.
I bought a new splitter/microfilter there today,
and it may actually have improved things.

--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

On Jan 8, 1:22*am, Timothy Murphy wrote:
I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.

Posted replies show a varying amount of understanding of how tel_cum
_ADSL works.

May I clarify please?

A telephone audio signal has a max frequency of 5kHz. The ADSL
signal is 5kHz - technically also a low frequency signal. The two
signals are combined and fed into the telephone cable to your house at
the exchange. Sometime c.1990 it was found that a signal combined in
this way was good for 1 to 3 miles from the exchange. Hence ADSL
internet services.

So you only require ordinary telephone cable to extend the phone
system (with or without ADSL) within your house. 'External' grade
cable is only different in that it is more rugged & weather proof:
unlikely to offer any advantage over internal grade for your 10m run
(but don't run it thru water). An extra 10m run is nowt.

You can extend your existing cables by any jointing system you like.
Common sense suggests making sure the existing connection to the
exchange & any of your equipment which might be sensitive to static is
isolated first. You can use IDC connectors, special tel junction
boxes with internal screw terminals, simple soldering or anything else
which gives a good connection. Thing to remember here is that it is
all low frequency work, so just as long as connections are sound and
permanent (& properly insulated) almost anything goes. Perhaps beware
of dry solder joints, especially if the cable may be exposed to
fluctuating temperature.

If you connect a phone directly to an ADSL enabled line you will hear
much high pitched interference. A microfilter (what you are calling a
"telephone/ADSL splitter") is in fact a low pass filter which just
passes the telephone sound signal to your phone. It rejects the ADSL
signal which is left untouched. Done this way you need a microfilter
for each phone. The full telephone signal (ADSL+tel sound) is fed
into your computer network card (which contains a high pass filter to
capture the ADSL signal only).

Instead of multiple microfilters - which can degrade telephone sound
if used en masse - it is better quality wise to use a dedicated filter
at the point of entry into the house & have 2 internal circuits. One
for the telephones & the other for the ADSL connection: suitable kit
at

http://www.clarity.it/telecoms/adsl_bits.htm

However if you need to several simultaneous connections to the
internet you need a method of combining signals from several computers
into one ADSL signal - you can't just connect two RJ11 plugs together.
Combining the signals is what a router does - Wifi routers are the
norm in simple installations.

Simple routers usually offer a choice of connecting to each computer
by WiFi or by an ethernet cable connection which can handle the higher
frequency. It is ONLY for the latter use that you require Cat5 (or
Cat6) cable. Cat5 cable contains 4 twisted pairs of wires within a
polythene sheath. Cat5 cable construction is designed to limit
interference between adjacent signals. (In fact only 2 pairs are
needed for one ethernet connection, so it is possible for 2 computers
to share one suitably terminated Cat5 cable.)

ie Cat5 cable is ONLY needed for the Ethernet side of a router because
of the higher signal frequencies involved. Cat5 could be used instead
of standard telephone cable - there is no advantage, but a huge cost
disadvantage.

HTH

In message
, jim
writes
On Jan 8, 1:22*am, Timothy Murphy wrote:
I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.

Posted replies show a varying amount of understanding of how tel_cum
_ADSL works.

May I clarify please?


Possibly sowing a bit more confusion though?

snip

The full telephone signal (ADSL+tel sound) is fed
into your computer network card (which contains a high pass filter to
capture the ADSL signal only).


Did you really mean to write that? you don't feed the ADSL signal into
the network card. you need an ADSL modem to take the signal and then
feed it to a computer. Nowadays this is normally combined with a router
as well, but it is possible to get a standalone ADSL modem

--
Chris French

On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 16:20:53 -0800 (PST), jim wrote:

A telephone audio signal has a max frequency of 5kHz. The ADSL
signal is 5kHz - technically also a low frequency signal.

ADSL signals start at 25kHz and extend up to 1.1MHz for ADSL1 and 2,
ADSL2+ carry on up to 2.2MHz.

You can extend your existing cables by any jointing system you like.

You need to maintain the circuit balance and not introduce any
reflections from a poor impedance match at the joint.

Common sense suggests making sure the existing connection to the
exchange & any of your equipment which might be sensitive to static is
isolated first.

Hum, so the induced voltages from lighting are a common problem?

Done this way you need a microfilter for each phone.

Not ideal, in theory it shouldn't make any difference how many
microfilters you have, parctice indicates that you get best speeds by
only having one at the NTE and place the ADSL modem there as well.
Running ethernet to your router and/or AP if it isn't built into the
modem. I see you correct this later.

The full telephone signal (ADSL+tel sound) is fed into your computer
network card (which contains a high pass filter to capture the ADSL
signal only).

Spherical objects.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sat, 08 Jan 2011 12:20:47 +0100, Timothy Murphy wrote:

The problem with a short cable is that a WiFi modem is supplied,
and the WiFi signal does not get to where it is needed
if the modem is near the input.

There is a DIY yagi antenna that one can make and stick on the antenna stub.
This would make the circular pattern of the antenna a more directional beam.
Perhaps it's worth a try, particularly as the antenna cost very little to make,
nothing using the stuff that your average diyer already has.

He http://www.heise.de/netze/artikel/Die-0-Euro-Antenne-223704.html

which is in German, but the photos here
http://www.heise.de/netze/bilderstrecke/bilderstrecke_329546.html?back=223704
pretty much cover it, excepting the lengths and distances for the wires, which
are here.

http://www.heise.de/netze/artikel/Aufbau-223810.html


Thomas Prufer

Timothy Murphy wrote:
Steve Firth wrote:
The problem with a short cable is that a WiFi modem is supplied,
and the WiFi signal does not get to where it is needed
if the modem is near the input.

If it's the standard TI modem then it has an RJ45 socket on the back
that you can use for a wired connection to your own network.

There are 5 people in the house using laptops,
so WiFi is more or less essential.

You don't need to use the onboard wifi, though - you could disable it
and use a separate access point, or use both if they're on different
channels.

Mike

jim wrote:

On Jan 8, 1:22 am, Timothy Murphy wrote:
I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.

So you only require ordinary telephone cable to extend the phone
system (with or without ADSL) within your house.

Thanks for your interesting and useful response.
My experience is that you are completely right;
my ADSL worked perfectly for 2 years with the wire going
out of one window and into another.

The ADSL connection has gone bad now,
and disconnects roughly once an hour.

I've checked everything that could possibly cause a problem
inside the house - I moved the modem to the telephone inlet,
swapped the modem, using a short RJ12 cable to connect it
to a new splitter/microfilter.

What is annoying, and very inconvenient,
is that the modem only re-connects
when it is switched off and on again.
This means someone has to be in the house.
I was using it to connect from Ireland to Italy
and was planning to use it to carry out some simple tasks.

It seems to me that a modem should be able to re-connect
without external help;
I wonder if there are ADSL modems around that do this?
I'm not sure of the make of the Telecom Italia modem;
it doesn't seem to have any indication on the box.

Unfortunately, I am discovering that Telecom Italia
is famous for doing nothing for a very long time -
I have had messages from several people saying
they have had similar ADSL problems which continued
for months if not years.


--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

Mike Humphrey wrote:

There are 5 people in the house using laptops,
so WiFi is more or less essential.

You don't need to use the onboard wifi, though - you could disable it
and use a separate access point, or use both if they're on different
channels.

That's what I do in Ireland.
I probably will do it here (in Italy) in the end,
if ever the ADSL connection is repaired.
(I do have one desktop computer connected to the modem by ethernet;
but that goes off when the connection drops,
even though the Ethernet and ADSL lights on the modem remain on (green).

--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

In article ,
Timothy Murphy writes:
jim wrote:

On Jan 8, 1:22 am, Timothy Murphy wrote:
I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.

So you only require ordinary telephone cable to extend the phone
system (with or without ADSL) within your house.

Thanks for your interesting and useful response.
My experience is that you are completely right;
my ADSL worked perfectly for 2 years with the wire going
out of one window and into another.

The ADSL connection has gone bad now,
and disconnects roughly once an hour.

I've checked everything that could possibly cause a problem
inside the house - I moved the modem to the telephone inlet,
swapped the modem, using a short RJ12 cable to connect it
to a new splitter/microfilter.

What is annoying, and very inconvenient,
is that the modem only re-connects
when it is switched off and on again.
This means someone has to be in the house.
I was using it to connect from Ireland to Italy
and was planning to use it to carry out some simple tasks.

You could put it on a time switch which is programmed to
power cycle it once a day, or similar.

I look after multiple ADSL lines across all my extended family.
In the early days, we had Dynamode modems which under certain
circumstances of BT Wholesale failure, would end up connected
to the BT testing endpoint instead of the ISP, so it thought
it was up, but there was no Internet access. I ended up
writing a cron job on a separate unix router present on most
sites which checked the modem every 15 minutes, and if found
it connected to the BT test endpoint, it used the management
interface to reboot it. That effectively made the problem
go away.

Similarly, the SPA3000 VoIP adapters which are part of the
same setup at each house can get into a mode where they
think the exchange line is on-hook, but it's got it off-hook,
so anyone trying to call will get Engaged signal. It turns
out this can be spotted in the web interface by seeing the
status is shown as On-Hook but the loop current is 0.0mA
(which it shouldn't be if the device is On-Hook).
Again, a cron job checks the SPA3000's periodically, and
uses their web interface to reboot them if they get into
that state. I see in the logs it happens every couple of
months, but I've had no more complaints because it gets
automatically fixed now.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

What is annoying, and very inconvenient,
is that the modem only re-connects
when it is switched off and on again.
This means someone has to be in the house.
I was using it to connect from Ireland to Italy
and was planning to use it to carry out some simple tasks.

You could put it on a time switch which is programmed to
power cycle it once a day, or similar.

Thanks again for your response.
I did think of using a timer like that,
but have left it too late now.
The modem only lasts about an hour at most,
so I would have to connect shortly after the timer went off.

--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

"Timothy Murphy" wrote in message
...
I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.
This has to go out of the house and back again,
so I have to drill 2 holes in window-frames.

I'd like to keep the holes as small as possible,
so I am wondering if I can cut the telephone wire, and re-join it,
either just by binding each of the 4 wires together,
or by soldering them.
Would this give a good enough connection for ADSL?

The alternative is to drill 12mm holes to allow the RJ-11 (or RJ-12)
connector through.

I know I could get a crimper to do this,
but I have to do it this weekend,
and don't have access to any sophisticated electronic store.

Any advice or suggestions gratefully received.

Change the front on the master socket to an ADSL faceplate with RJ45 & RJ11
sockets.

Run a length of Cat5 from your master socket to the desired location of the
router using one of the twisted pairs as the conductors.

Use a small IDC junc box and short length of RJ11 terminated cable to join
the two, or if you are able, crimp an rj11 plug to the end of the cat5.

Job done.

Tim..

Tim.. wrote:

I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.
This has to go out of the house and back again,
so I have to drill 2 holes in window-frames.

Change the front on the master socket to an ADSL faceplate with RJ45 &
RJ11 sockets.

Thanks for your response.
But I wouldn't dare to do this,
as it would give Telecom Italia an excuse to do nothing,
which is what they are doing anyway.

Run a length of Cat5 from your master socket to the desired location of
the router using one of the twisted pairs as the conductors.

Actually, I have moved the modem down to the telephone inlet into the house
(joined to the microfilter by a short RJ12 cable).
This hasn't improved the ADSL service,
which still fails every hour or so, requiring the modem to be
stopped and re-started by hand.

--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

On Mon, 10 Jan 2011 00:38:48 +0100, Timothy Murphy wrote:

It seems to me that a modem should be able to re-connect
without external help;
I wonder if there are ADSL modems around that do this?

Yes, mine does. It also has a configuration setting to not do this.

I'm not sure of the make of the Telecom Italia modem;
it doesn't seem to have any indication on the box.

Guess you need to do some digging to find out what you have then try
and track down a user manual for it. Always assuming that Telecom
Italia haven't put custom firmware onto it that only they can access.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:

It seems to me that a modem should be able to re-connect
without external help;
I wonder if there are ADSL modems around that do this?

Yes, mine does. It also has a configuration setting to not do this.

What is your modem.
(Apologies if you said that earlier.)


--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 14:20:35 +0100, Timothy Murphy wrote:

It seems to me that a modem should be able to re-connect
without external help;
I wonder if there are ADSL modems around that do this?

Yes, mine does. It also has a configuration setting to not do this.

What is your modem.

ZyXEL P660R-61C

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article , Timothy Murphy
writes
Tim.. wrote:

I want to connect the phone/ADSL splitter in my house
to a desktop computer by a long (10 metres) telephone wire.
This has to go out of the house and back again,
so I have to drill 2 holes in window-frames.

Change the front on the master socket to an ADSL faceplate with RJ45 &
RJ11 sockets.

Thanks for your response.
But I wouldn't dare to do this,
as it would give Telecom Italia an excuse to do nothing,
which is what they are doing anyway.

Run a length of Cat5 from your master socket to the desired location of
the router using one of the twisted pairs as the conductors.

Actually, I have moved the modem down to the telephone inlet into the house
(joined to the microfilter by a short RJ12 cable).
This hasn't improved the ADSL service,
which still fails every hour or so, requiring the modem to be
stopped and re-started by hand.

We had a similar problem and in the end I bought a new modem - the
problem disappeared. I think it was related to when they started to
increase the speeds and introduce 2+ - the old modem just detected too
many CRC and other errors and restarted itself.


--
John Alexander,

Remove NOSPAM if replying by e-mail

John wrote:

Actually, I have moved the modem down to the telephone inlet into the
house (joined to the microfilter by a short RJ12 cable).
This hasn't improved the ADSL service,
which still fails every hour or so, requiring the modem to be
stopped and re-started by hand.

We had a similar problem and in the end I bought a new modem - the
problem disappeared. I think it was related to when they started to
increase the speeds and introduce 2+ - the old modem just detected too
many CRC and other errors and restarted itself.

Yes, I think that is very plausible;
the ADSL connection worked perfectly for 2 years,
until 3 months ago.
The modem then stopped working altogether,
and Telecom Italia swapped the modem,
which worked after a fashion but kept dropping the connection.

I have a vague recollection that Telecom Italia
mentioned that ADSL speed was to be increased
at approximately the same time that the modem failed.

I've decided to try a new modem,
and have more or less decided on a Billion 5100S RC modem.
This is not a WiFi modem;
I plan to connect it to my desktop,
and then connect a WiFi router to the desktop.

I'm hoping the Billion will reconnect if and when the line drops
without needing to be physically re-started.

I've looked around for a forum or mailing-list devoted to ADSL,
but haven't found anything.

--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

On 12/01/2011 00:06, Timothy Murphy wrote:
John wrote:

Actually, I have moved the modem down to the telephone inlet into the
house (joined to the microfilter by a short RJ12 cable).
This hasn't improved the ADSL service,
which still fails every hour or so, requiring the modem to be
stopped and re-started by hand.

We had a similar problem and in the end I bought a new modem - the
problem disappeared. I think it was related to when they started to
increase the speeds and introduce 2+ - the old modem just detected too
many CRC and other errors and restarted itself.

Yes, I think that is very plausible;
the ADSL connection worked perfectly for 2 years,
until 3 months ago.
The modem then stopped working altogether,
and Telecom Italia swapped the modem,
which worked after a fashion but kept dropping the connection.

I have a vague recollection that Telecom Italia
mentioned that ADSL speed was to be increased
at approximately the same time that the modem failed.

I've decided to try a new modem,
and have more or less decided on a Billion 5100S RC modem.
This is not a WiFi modem;
I plan to connect it to my desktop,
and then connect a WiFi router to the desktop.

I'm hoping the Billion will reconnect if and when the line drops
without needing to be physically re-started.

I've looked around for a forum or mailing-list devoted to ADSL,
but haven't found anything.

Is getting a modem like that a poor move? I'd always recommend a
combined router/modem, unless you're trying to do strange things. More
secure unless you're very careful, talks to anything you want it to,
will reconnect on line drops.

Clive George wrote:

I've decided to try a new modem,
and have more or less decided on a Billion 5100S RC modem.
This is not a WiFi modem;
I plan to connect it to my desktop,
and then connect a WiFi router to the desktop.

I'm hoping the Billion will reconnect if and when the line drops
without needing to be physically re-started.

I've looked around for a forum or mailing-list devoted to ADSL,
but haven't found anything.

Is getting a modem like that a poor move? I'd always recommend a
combined router/modem, unless you're trying to do strange things. More
secure unless you're very careful, talks to anything you want it to,
will reconnect on line drops.

I don't see why a modem/router should be any better than a modem
from that point of view.
Maybe I'm using the wrong term;
I mean a modem with an ethernet connection to a computer,
but no WiFi facility.
(Also, I should have said Billion 5200S RC.)


--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail: gayleard /at/ eircom.net
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

On 12/01/2011 03:23, Timothy Murphy wrote:
Clive George wrote:

I've decided to try a new modem,
and have more or less decided on a Billion 5100S RC modem.
This is not a WiFi modem;
I plan to connect it to my desktop,
and then connect a WiFi router to the desktop.

I'm hoping the Billion will reconnect if and when the line drops
without needing to be physically re-started.

I've looked around for a forum or mailing-list devoted to ADSL,
but haven't found anything.

Is getting a modem like that a poor move? I'd always recommend a
combined router/modem, unless you're trying to do strange things. More
secure unless you're very careful, talks to anything you want it to,
will reconnect on line drops.

I don't see why a modem/router should be any better than a modem
from that point of view.
Maybe I'm using the wrong term;
I mean a modem with an ethernet connection to a computer,
but no WiFi facility.
(Also, I should have said Billion 5200S RC.)

Ah, phew. An ADSL modem has adsl signal on one side and typically a USB
connection on the other, to plug directly into the computer, which comes
with a pile of problems. What you're describing is often called an ADSL
router, and is the sensible option :-)

Is signal through walls the reason you want to separate your router and
wifi? I'd say getting them in one box is a sensible default option for
most. You can always turn the wifi off when you're out.

I've decided to try a new modem,
and have more or less decided on a Billion 5100S RC modem.
This is not a WiFi modem;
I plan to connect it to my desktop,
and then connect a WiFi router to the desktop.

I'm hoping the Billion will reconnect if and when the line drops
without needing to be physically re-started.

I've looked around for a forum or mailing-list devoted to ADSL,
but haven't found anything.


Draytec Vigor 2820vn is a pretty good ADSL wireless router and maybe
another one to consider in a similar price bracket.


--

Cheers
Andy

Timothy Murphy wrote:
Clive George wrote:

I've decided to try a new modem,
and have more or less decided on a Billion 5100S RC modem.
This is not a WiFi modem;
I plan to connect it to my desktop,
and then connect a WiFi router to the desktop.

I'm hoping the Billion will reconnect if and when the line drops
without needing to be physically re-started.

I've looked around for a forum or mailing-list devoted to ADSL,
but haven't found anything.

Is getting a modem like that a poor move? I'd always recommend a
combined router/modem, unless you're trying to do strange things. More
secure unless you're very careful, talks to anything you want it to,
will reconnect on line drops.

I don't see why a modem/router should be any better than a modem
from that point of view.
Maybe I'm using the wrong term;
I mean a modem with an ethernet connection to a computer,
but no WiFi facility.
(Also, I should have said Billion 5200S RC.)


That *is* a router/modem.

Expect the user interface to be a nightmare, but the actual guts are
pretty good on billions.

In article , "Clive
George" wrote:

On 12/01/2011 03:23, Timothy Murphy wrote:
Clive George wrote:

I don't see why a modem/router should be any better than a modem
from that point of view.
Maybe I'm using the wrong term;
I mean a modem with an ethernet connection to a computer,
but no WiFi facility.
(Also, I should have said Billion 5200S RC.)

Ah, phew. An ADSL modem has adsl signal on one side and typically a USB
connection on the other, to plug directly into the computer, which comes
with a pile of problems. What you're describing is often called an ADSL
router, and is the sensible option :-)

Is signal through walls the reason you want to separate your router and
wifi? I'd say getting them in one box is a sensible default option for
most. You can always turn the wifi off when you're out.

If the walls are anything like mine (Breeze blocks, made from furnace
ash/clinker - good RF shields), I can understand why the modem/router and
Wireless access point need to be separate. :-)

I've been using a Billion 7402R2 close to the incoming telephone service.
This now connects to a GB switch and all my wired LAN connects to this.
In the rooms where I want Wireless access, I serve with my old ZyXEL
modem/router performing this function, using just the router part as
input and the wireless for the WiFi. You must make sure only one of the
routers has DHCP enabled, unless you partition your LAN.

The Billion handles ADSL outages well for me - I've never had to manually
reconnect it after an ADSL outage. (15sec reconnect time for a PPP down
initiated from the ISP end) The old ZyXEL often wouldn't reconnect until
manually restarted, hence its replacement. My current sync speed is
7.349Mbps on a line stated as supporting up to 4Mbps by the service
checkers.

--
John W

In article , Andy
scribeth thus


I've decided to try a new modem,
and have more or less decided on a Billion 5100S RC modem.
This is not a WiFi modem;
I plan to connect it to my desktop,
and then connect a WiFi router to the desktop.

I'm hoping the Billion will reconnect if and when the line drops
without needing to be physically re-started.

I've looked around for a forum or mailing-list devoted to ADSL,
but haven't found anything.


Draytec Vigor 2820vn is a pretty good ADSL wireless router and maybe
another one to consider in a similar price bracket.



A very good wireless and router..

--
Tony Sayer