Hi all,

I'm about to build a small block extension, and need a longer spirit
level than I currently have. Firstly, what is a good length - 1.2m or
1.8m? I would think 1.2 is easier to wield, but would a 1.8m be better
for longer runs? I'd rather spend the money on one decent level, than
have to get two of different lengths. Secondly, I think that Stabila
and Stanley seem to be the main makes to look for - is there anything
to differentiate between them? What features should I look for?

In the high-tech world of digital spirit levels, self-levelling laser
line projectors and so on, is it worth considering anything more than
a simple spirit level, either as a replacement for the level, or to be
used in combination with, to make the job easier?

thanks,

dan.

On Sep 14, 8:30 pm, dent wrote:
Hi all,

I'm about to build a small block extension, and need a longer spirit
level than I currently have. Firstly, what is a good length - 1.2m or
1.8m? I would think 1.2 is easier to wield, but would a 1.8m be better
for longer runs? I'd rather spend the money on one decent level, than
have to get two of different lengths. Secondly, I think that Stabila
and Stanley seem to be the main makes to look for - is there anything
to differentiate between them? What features should I look for?

In the high-tech world of digital spirit levels, self-levelling laser
line projectors and so on, is it worth considering anything more than
a simple spirit level, either as a replacement for the level, or to be
used in combination with, to make the job easier?

The short level that you have is adequate for window sills etc.
Even a 1.8m level is too short to get the floor level. Use a water-
filled piece of hosepipe with a plastic bottle at each end to get
levels right.

dent coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi all,

I'm about to build a small block extension, and need a longer spirit
level than I currently have. Firstly, what is a good length - 1.2m or
1.8m? I would think 1.2 is easier to wield, but would a 1.8m be better
for longer runs? I'd rather spend the money on one decent level, than
have to get two of different lengths. Secondly, I think that Stabila
and Stanley seem to be the main makes to look for - is there anything
to differentiate between them? What features should I look for?

In the high-tech world of digital spirit levels, self-levelling laser
line projectors and so on, is it worth considering anything more than
a simple spirit level, either as a replacement for the level, or to be
used in combination with, to make the job easier?

thanks,

dan.

I've got this set:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/75181/...asure-Set-6Pcs

Not bad. Not as good as a super quality level (the bubble is smaller than
the gap between the lines) but I find it adequate.

Having a 2', 4' and 6' level is extremely useful.

For longer range work, I find a basic laser level very useful - I have a
cheap Stanley cross-line laser from ebay for 90 quid (double that if new).

The downside is that you cannot see the red line outside - though you could
set up and mark up in the evening.

For wall work I've used all 3 levels and a laser, and for flooring I've used
4', 6' and a laser.

If you fancy something more expensive, a green crossline laser will be more
visible.

I think the spirit levels are a must have, but a cheap set are adequate. I
would not be happy without my laser though. Having 3 lines set at 90
degrees from each other is extremely useful. On occasion I could have found
a use for a plumb laser but not often enough to warrent buying one.

Cheers Tim

Tim S wrote:
dent coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi all,

I'm about to build a small block extension, and need a longer spirit
level than I currently have. Firstly, what is a good length - 1.2m or
1.8m? I would think 1.2 is easier to wield, but would a 1.8m be better
for longer runs? I'd rather spend the money on one decent level, than
have to get two of different lengths. Secondly, I think that Stabila
and Stanley seem to be the main makes to look for - is there anything
to differentiate between them? What features should I look for?

In the high-tech world of digital spirit levels, self-levelling laser
line projectors and so on, is it worth considering anything more than
a simple spirit level, either as a replacement for the level, or to be
used in combination with, to make the job easier?

thanks,

dan.

I've got this set:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/75181/...lling/Levels/F
orge-Steel-Level-Measure-Set-6Pcs

Not bad. Not as good as a super quality level (the bubble is smaller than
the gap between the lines) but I find it adequate.

Having a 2', 4' and 6' level is extremely useful.


I got the 4ft level from that set, basically the cheapest one rated at
0.5mm/m. It passed the usual turnaround test very comfortably. Used with
care, it proved accurate enough for levelling around all four walls of a
room (although some of that must be thanks to cancellation of random
errors).

The main objections are that the plastic handgrips bulge out too much,
making it more difficult to use the level on its side as a
straight-edge, and the plastic end buffers are a different size from the
aluminium I-beam. (A few minutes with a milling machine will fix all
that... someday.)


For longer range work, I find a basic laser level very useful - I have a
cheap Stanley cross-line laser from ebay for 90 quid (double that if new).

The downside is that you cannot see the red line outside - though you could
set up and mark up in the evening.


You couldn't trust the projected horizontal or vertical lines at a
distance because the lenses have some spherical aberration which causes
the lines to curve. It is much more accurate to use the spot beam to
transfer some reference marks onto your distant target and then continue
the local marking-out with your good bubble level. With a short, cheap
laser level you'd definitely need to turn the level around and do some
averaging, but the spot beam is much brighter than the lines and can be
used in bright sunlight.


--
Ian White

On Sep 14, 9:30*am, dent wrote:
Hi all,

I'm about to build a small block extension, and need a longer spirit
level than I currently have. Firstly, what is a good length - 1.2m or
1.8m? I would think 1.2 is easier to wield, but would a 1.8m be better
for longer runs? I'd rather spend the money on one decent level, than
have to get two of different lengths. Secondly, I think that Stabila
and Stanley seem to be the main makes to look for - is there anything
to differentiate between them? What features should I look for?

In the high-tech world of digital spirit levels, self-levelling laser
line projectors and so on, is it worth considering anything more than
a simple spirit level, either as a replacement for the level, or to be
used in combination with, to make the job easier?

thanks,

dan.

take a piece of planed timber, sit spirit level on it in the centre,
there you go one long level.


NT

In article ,
dent writes:
Hi all,

I'm about to build a small block extension, and need a longer spirit
level than I currently have. Firstly, what is a good length - 1.2m or
1.8m? I would think 1.2 is easier to wield, but would a 1.8m be better
for longer runs? I'd rather spend the money on one decent level, than
have to get two of different lengths. Secondly, I think that Stabila
and Stanley seem to be the main makes to look for - is there anything
to differentiate between them? What features should I look for?

1.2m is fine. When leveling longer lengths, remember to reverse
the level each time, so any error in it cancels out rather than adds.

You'll also want a short (e.g. 12") level for checking across
tops of brickwork, where a long level is too unwieldy to be accurate.

In the high-tech world of digital spirit levels, self-levelling laser
line projectors and so on, is it worth considering anything more than
a simple spirit level, either as a replacement for the level, or to be
used in combination with, to make the job easier?

I use simple spirit levels, and pins and string.
If a laser level had a power boost button to cause it to burn a
mark or a line, then it would be useful;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

the lenses have some spherical aberration which causes
the lines to curve.


Really? How the Hell does that happen, then?

On 14 Sep, 22:47, Limey Lurker wrote:
* * * * *the lenses have some spherical aberration which causes

the lines to curve.

Really? How the Hell does that happen, then?

Presumably, close proximity to a black hole.

Limey Lurker coughed up some electrons that declared:





the lenses have some spherical aberration which causes
the lines to curve.


Really? How the Hell does that happen, then?

He means the line, along its width. Not its length.

I never considered that, but then I couldn't work that accurately anyway, so
it's fairly moot for me.

Tim S wrote:
Limey Lurker coughed up some electrons that declared:





the lenses have some spherical aberration which causes
the lines to curve.


Really? How the Hell does that happen, then?

He means the line, along its width. Not its length.

No, I really did mean that the line is curved along its length on the
wall.

Apologies that "spherical aberration" wasn't the correct term for the
cause, but it's still in the cheap and nasty optics.

The laser diode initially creates a spot beam. The flat fan beam that
projects a line on the wall is created by a cylindrical diverging lens.
You'll only get a straight line if the axis of that cylinder is exactly
at right-angles to the beam. If the lens is tilted either forward or
back, the flat fan becomes slightly dished and the projected line will
be slightly curved.

I never considered that, but then I couldn't work that accurately anyway, so
it's fairly moot for me.

My cheapie laser level projects a very noticeable curve relative to a
plumbline. OK, we can't expect much better for a retail price of under
20 quid (which means the optics probably cost about tuppence) but even I
can hang wallpaper straighter than that.



--
Ian White

Ian White coughed up some electrons that declared:

Tim S wrote:
Limey Lurker coughed up some electrons that declared:





the lenses have some spherical aberration which causes
the lines to curve.


Really? How the Hell does that happen, then?

He means the line, along its width. Not its length.

No, I really did mean that the line is curved along its length on the
wall

We're talking at cross purposes. I meant curved across the wider width of
the beam fan, which is the same as what you're saying Ian.

Not along the radial length of the beam, which of course would need a large
gravitational field to achieve

Apologies that "spherical aberration" wasn't the correct term for the
cause, but it's still in the cheap and nasty optics.

The laser diode initially creates a spot beam. The flat fan beam that
projects a line on the wall is created by a cylindrical diverging lens.
You'll only get a straight line if the axis of that cylinder is exactly
at right-angles to the beam. If the lens is tilted either forward or
back, the flat fan becomes slightly dished and the projected line will
be slightly curved.

That's a good explanation.

I never considered that, but then I couldn't work that accurately anyway,
so it's fairly moot for me.

My cheapie laser level projects a very noticeable curve relative to a
plumbline. OK, we can't expect much better for a retail price of under
20 quid (which means the optics probably cost about tuppence) but even I
can hang wallpaper straighter than that.

I must check mine out of interest now.

Cheers

Tim

On Mon, 14 Sep 2009 21:01:44 -0700, 1501 wrote:

On 14 Sep, 22:47, Limey Lurker wrote:
Â* Â* Â* Â* Â*the lenses have some spherical aberration which causes

the lines to curve.

Really? How the Hell does that happen, then?

Presumably, close proximity to a black hole.

Or a very fat person. Careful the level doesn't fall into orbit around
them.

Jules coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Mon, 14 Sep 2009 21:01:44 -0700, 1501 wrote:

On 14 Sep, 22:47, Limey Lurker wrote:
the lenses have some spherical aberration which causes

the lines to curve.

Really? How the Hell does that happen, then?

Presumably, close proximity to a black hole.

Or a very fat person. Careful the level doesn't fall into orbit around
them.

Interestingly I've just checked my 4' Forge Steel level and it's miles out
on a reversal test.

It's been abused and I usually use it as a straight edge and for rough jobs
(because it's cheap), so not sure if it was always dodgey.

My Wickes 2'er is bang on though and so, by cross checking is my laser.

Cheers

Tim

On Tue, 15 Sep 2009 15:02:03 +0100, Tim S wrote:
Interestingly I've just checked my 4' Forge Steel level and it's miles out
on a reversal test.

Hmm yes... interesting that they can go out of calibration. I suppose if
the glass envelope is short and only supported at the ends, any tiny
change will put it way out.

I've got a big ol' 4' level back in storage in the UK - must get it
shipped over sometime. I'm surviving on a 2' plastic-fantastic one here
(plus the little one built into my set-square).

My Wickes 2'er is bang on though and so, by cross checking is my laser.

Laser? How posh and new-fangled of you.

cheers

Jules

Ian White pretended :
For longer range work, I find a basic laser level very useful - I have a
cheap Stanley cross-line laser from ebay for 90 quid (double that if new).

The downside is that you cannot see the red line outside - though you could
set up and mark up in the evening.


You couldn't trust the projected horizontal or vertical lines at a distance
because the lenses have some spherical aberration which causes the lines to
curve. It is much more accurate to use the spot beam to transfer some
reference marks onto your distant target and then continue the local
marking-out with your good bubble level. With a short, cheap laser level
you'd definitely need to turn the level around and do some averaging, but the
spot beam is much brighter than the lines and can be used in bright sunlight.

I paid £19.99 for mine, with not much in the way of expectations of its
accuracy from me - but I just cannot fault it even over 30 feet, when
compared to a water level or Stabila. It came with a tripod, you fix
the head on the trip release the internal bob weight, then turn on the
H V or both beams. You don't need to set it up, so long as the tripod
is roughly level it will do. I used it to build a small extension, with
string lines between for getting the courses straight, tiling and a few
other tasks over the years - much easier than a level.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk