Tim S wrote:
dent coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi all,

I'm about to build a small block extension, and need a longer spirit
level than I currently have. Firstly, what is a good length - 1.2m or
1.8m? I would think 1.2 is easier to wield, but would a 1.8m be better
for longer runs? I'd rather spend the money on one decent level, than
have to get two of different lengths. Secondly, I think that Stabila
and Stanley seem to be the main makes to look for - is there anything
to differentiate between them? What features should I look for?

In the high-tech world of digital spirit levels, self-levelling laser
line projectors and so on, is it worth considering anything more than
a simple spirit level, either as a replacement for the level, or to be
used in combination with, to make the job easier?

thanks,

dan.

I've got this set:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/75181/...lling/Levels/F
orge-Steel-Level-Measure-Set-6Pcs

Not bad. Not as good as a super quality level (the bubble is smaller than
the gap between the lines) but I find it adequate.

Having a 2', 4' and 6' level is extremely useful.


I got the 4ft level from that set, basically the cheapest one rated at
0.5mm/m. It passed the usual turnaround test very comfortably. Used with
care, it proved accurate enough for levelling around all four walls of a
room (although some of that must be thanks to cancellation of random
errors).

The main objections are that the plastic handgrips bulge out too much,
making it more difficult to use the level on its side as a
straight-edge, and the plastic end buffers are a different size from the
aluminium I-beam. (A few minutes with a milling machine will fix all
that... someday.)


For longer range work, I find a basic laser level very useful - I have a
cheap Stanley cross-line laser from ebay for 90 quid (double that if new).

The downside is that you cannot see the red line outside - though you could
set up and mark up in the evening.


You couldn't trust the projected horizontal or vertical lines at a
distance because the lenses have some spherical aberration which causes
the lines to curve. It is much more accurate to use the spot beam to
transfer some reference marks onto your distant target and then continue
the local marking-out with your good bubble level. With a short, cheap
laser level you'd definitely need to turn the level around and do some
averaging, but the spot beam is much brighter than the lines and can be
used in bright sunlight.


--
Ian White