Stripping wallpaper today and a few areas of plaster have blown up and
lifted off the walls ( "a few" as in three largish spots around a foot
diameter or so). Either down to me "leaning" on the steamer while
scraping the wet bits or just cruddy plaster. Probably me. Anyway,
I've never been much good at getting a smooth finish, you could always
see where I'd been on car bodywork, so is there a recommended product
other than plaster which might be a bit accomodating or should I just
give it a go? We're not re-papering by the way, paint only from now on
so I've been told.
Many thanks for any advice, including the forthcoming, "clean off the
damaged bits with an angle grinder".

On Jul 14, 2:28*pm, Harry wrote:
Stripping wallpaper today and a few areas of plaster have blown up and
lifted off the walls ( "a few" as in three largish spots around a foot
diameter or so). Either down to me "leaning" on the steamer while
scraping the wet bits or just cruddy plaster. Probably me. Anyway,
I've never been much good at getting a smooth finish, you could always
see where I'd been on car bodywork, so is there a recommended product
other than plaster which might be a bit accomodating or should I just
give it a go? We're not re-papering by the way, paint only from now on
so I've been told.
Many thanks for any advice, including the forthcoming, "clean off the
damaged bits with an angle grinder".

This is the stuff I used. Bit like an easy to use plaster...
http://www.polycell.co.uk/products/p...eady_mixed.jsp

Harry wrote in message
...
Anyway,
I've never been much good at getting a smooth finish, you could
always
see where I'd been on car bodywork, so is there a recommended
product
other than plaster

Right there ^^^ that's your problem, you're not supposed to use
plaster on cars!

KK

In article ,
Harry wrote:
Stripping wallpaper today and a few areas of plaster have blown up and
lifted off the walls ( "a few" as in three largish spots around a foot
diameter or so). Either down to me "leaning" on the steamer while
scraping the wet bits or just cruddy plaster. Probably me. Anyway,
I've never been much good at getting a smooth finish, you could always
see where I'd been on car bodywork, so is there a recommended product
other than plaster which might be a bit accomodating or should I just
give it a go? We're not re-papering by the way, paint only from now on
so I've been told.

Use one coat plaster and follow the instructions on the bag. You'll need a
half decent float - but they're not expensive. With such a small area you
should be able to get a decent repair - even if it needs slight sanding
down afterwards. Give the hole a good soak with diluted PVA first and
leave to dry. However, *any* repair is likely to show through paint - as
the surface will have a different texture. The way round this is to line
the wall then paint.

--
*Letting a cat out of the bag is easier than putting it back in *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Harry wrote:
Stripping wallpaper today and a few areas of plaster have blown up and
lifted off the walls ( "a few" as in three largish spots around a foot
diameter or so). Either down to me "leaning" on the steamer while
scraping the wet bits or just cruddy plaster. Probably me. Anyway,
I've never been much good at getting a smooth finish, you could always
see where I'd been on car bodywork, so is there a recommended product
other than plaster which might be a bit accomodating or should I just
give it a go? We're not re-papering by the way, paint only from now on
so I've been told.

Use one coat plaster and follow the instructions on the bag. You'll need a
half decent float - but they're not expensive. With such a small area you
should be able to get a decent repair - even if it needs slight sanding
down afterwards. Give the hole a good soak with diluted PVA first and
leave to dry. However, *any* repair is likely to show through paint - as
the surface will have a different texture. The way round this is to line
the wall then paint.


Filler, or Artex powder, is easier to use IMO. Doesn't go off as quickly
as plaster, and will feather an edge far better.

In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
Use one coat plaster and follow the instructions on the bag. You'll
need a half decent float - but they're not expensive. With such a
small area you should be able to get a decent repair - even if it
needs slight sanding down afterwards. Give the hole a good soak with
diluted PVA first and leave to dry. However, *any* repair is likely to
show through paint - as the surface will have a different texture. The
way round this is to line the wall then paint.


Filler, or Artex powder, is easier to use IMO. Doesn't go off as quickly
as plaster, and will feather an edge far better.

'Filler' is likely to take forever to go off if it's thick. 'One coat'
gives you plenty time to get a level surface - you then let it go off and
then reactivate to polish the surface. Even I can manage a reasonable
finish with this stuff.

--
*Also too, never, ever use repetitive redundancies *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 14 Jul 2009 18:09:15 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
Use one coat plaster and follow the instructions on the bag. You'll
need a half decent float - but they're not expensive. With such a
small area you should be able to get a decent repair - even if it
needs slight sanding down afterwards. Give the hole a good soak with
diluted PVA first and leave to dry. However, *any* repair is likely to
show through paint - as the surface will have a different texture. The
way round this is to line the wall then paint.


Filler, or Artex powder, is easier to use IMO. Doesn't go off as quickly
as plaster, and will feather an edge far better.

'Filler' is likely to take forever to go off if it's thick. 'One coat'
gives you plenty time to get a level surface - you then let it go off and
then reactivate to polish the surface. Even I can manage a reasonable
finish with this stuff.

Sounds good enough for me, although the reactivate it bit is a little
vague. Would that be done by wetting it again? And I KNOW where I
went wrong with the car, forgot to PVA it first ;-p

Whoops, sorry, thank you to all responders, much appreciated.

In article ,
Harry wrote:
'Filler' is likely to take forever to go off if it's thick. 'One coat'
gives you plenty time to get a level surface - you then let it go off and
then reactivate to polish the surface. Even I can manage a reasonable
finish with this stuff.

Sounds good enough for me, although the reactivate it bit is a little
vague. Would that be done by wetting it again?

Yus. It's also a fraction of the price of proprietary fillers.

And I KNOW where I
went wrong with the car, forgot to PVA it first ;-p

;-). The trick with car body fillers is to have the correct tools to shape
the filler after filling proud. Sandpaper is likely to produce ripples.

--
*A clear conscience is usually the sign of a bad memory *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wed, 15 Jul 2009 00:43:27 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Harry wrote:
'Filler' is likely to take forever to go off if it's thick. 'One coat'
gives you plenty time to get a level surface - you then let it go off and
then reactivate to polish the surface. Even I can manage a reasonable
finish with this stuff.

Sounds good enough for me, although the reactivate it bit is a little
vague. Would that be done by wetting it again?

Yus. It's also a fraction of the price of proprietary fillers.

And I KNOW where I
went wrong with the car, forgot to PVA it first ;-p

;-). The trick with car body fillers is to have the correct tools to shape
the filler after filling proud. Sandpaper is likely to produce ripples.

Ripples? Dunno about ripples, it was more like the surface of the moon
on a really bad day. Ripples I'd have been happy with.

In article ,
Harry wrote:
;-). The trick with car body fillers is to have the correct tools to
shape the filler after filling proud. Sandpaper is likely to produce
ripples.

Ripples? Dunno about ripples, it was more like the surface of the moon
on a really bad day. Ripples I'd have been happy with.

Sounds like it was full of air bubbles. But you'd normally use another
filler on top of the body filler once it's shaped properly to give a
perfect surface. If it's not too bad several coats of primer/filler can do
the same thing.

--
*Reality is the illusion that occurs due to the lack of alcohol *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Harry wrote:
'Filler' is likely to take forever to go off if it's thick. 'One coat'
gives you plenty time to get a level surface - you then let it go off and
then reactivate to polish the surface. Even I can manage a reasonable
finish with this stuff.

Sounds good enough for me, although the reactivate it bit is a little
vague. Would that be done by wetting it again?

Yus. It's also a fraction of the price of proprietary fillers.

And I KNOW where I
went wrong with the car, forgot to PVA it first ;-p

;-). The trick with car body fillers is to have the correct tools to shape
the filler after filling proud. Sandpaper is likely to produce ripples.


The trick is to only mix up what you can apply in a minute. That leaves
you 4 minutes to sculpt the stuff with a blade and clean it off your tools.