Its hot. I'd like to open the windows at the top (to stop my children
falling out from their bedrooms accidentally). I have sash windows
that are painted shut at the top (possibly inside and out).

Where do I start?!?

TIA!

Matt

"larkim" wrote in message
...
Its hot. I'd like to open the windows at the top (to stop my
children
falling out from their bedrooms accidentally). I have sash windows
that are painted shut at the top (possibly inside and out).

Where do I start?!?

TIA!

Matt

Thin putty knife and patience

AWEM

Andrew Mawson wrote:
I have sash windows
that are painted shut at the top (possibly inside and out).

Where do I start?!?

Thin putty knife and patience

Beware of the Angle Grinder approach ...

--
Adrian C

On Jul 2, 5:06*pm, Adrian C wrote:
Andrew Mawson wrote:

* I have sash windows

that are painted shut at the top (possibly inside and out).

Where do I start?!?

Thin putty knife and patience

Beware of the Angle Grinder approach ...

--
Adrian C

Sound advice ;-)

I know where I can buy a thin putty knife - anyone know any good
retailers for patience, as last time I tried something similar I
seemed to be missing it....

Matt

larkim wrote:

I know where I can buy a thin putty knife - anyone know any good
retailers for patience, as last time I tried something similar I
seemed to be missing it....

Haven't used one - but would a Fein multimaster tool kind of thing kind
of cut it?

Or overkill?

--
Adrian C

On 2 July, 17:09, larkim wrote:

I know where I can buy a thin putty knife

Big Tesco. They have some with pale grey plastic handles that are a
nice grip and a good stiff blade that's better for hard scraping work
than the usual. I've been taking decades of white emulsion off the
insides of my workshop and this is my favourite scraper by far.

For unsticking sash windows, I'd probably prefer a pulled tool with
teeth on it, rather than a pushed scraper. Chunks of old sawblade
screwed to wooden handles, or just wrapped with gaffer, are the sort
of thing.

If you have one, the Multimaster also does this very well, but not so
well that you'd buy one just for one job.
This is always the same tale for Mutleymasters!

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 2 July, 17:09, larkim wrote:

I know where I can buy a thin putty knife

Big Tesco. They have some with pale grey plastic handles that are a
nice grip and a good stiff blade that's better for hard scraping work
than the usual. I've been taking decades of white emulsion off the
insides of my workshop and this is my favourite scraper by far.

For unsticking sash windows, I'd probably prefer a pulled tool with
teeth on it, rather than a pushed scraper. Chunks of old sawblade
screwed to wooden handles, or just wrapped with gaffer, are the sort
of thing.

If you have one, the Multimaster also does this very well, but not so
well that you'd buy one just for one job.
This is always the same tale for Mutleymasters!

Using the flexible scraper tool?
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=164624
I've bought a few such attachments for my Bosch PMF
but havent used that one yet...

[g]

george (dicegeorge) wrote:


Andy Dingley wrote:
On 2 July, 17:09, larkim wrote:

I know where I can buy a thin putty knife

Big Tesco. They have some with pale grey plastic handles that are a
nice grip and a good stiff blade that's better for hard scraping work
than the usual. I've been taking decades of white emulsion off the
insides of my workshop and this is my favourite scraper by far.

For unsticking sash windows, I'd probably prefer a pulled tool with
teeth on it, rather than a pushed scraper. Chunks of old sawblade
screwed to wooden handles, or just wrapped with gaffer, are the sort
of thing.

If you have one, the Multimaster also does this very well, but not so
well that you'd buy one just for one job.
This is always the same tale for Mutleymasters!

Using the flexible scraper tool?
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=164624
I've bought a few such attachments for my Bosch PMF
but havent used that one yet...

[g]

You just need to tap a paint scraper between the sashes and the beads
(i.e. about 10mm). Start at the top and knock the blade downwards with a
hammer. Usually this needs to be done inside and out but you can
probably see where they're stuck.

On Jul 2, 5:09*pm, larkim wrote:
On Jul 2, 5:06*pm, Adrian C wrote:

Andrew Mawson wrote:

* I have sash windows

that are painted shut at the top (possibly inside and out).

Where do I start?!?

Thin putty knife and patience

Beware of the Angle Grinder approach ...

--
Adrian C

Sound advice ;-)

I know where I can buy a thin putty knife - anyone know any good
retailers for patience, as last time I tried something similar I
seemed to be missing it....

Matt

No need to buy a putty knife, a big kitchen knife would do fine, one
without fine serrations. Its preferable to run it down the join
several times than to dig it in and pull downward, less chance of
minor damage and easier.

Where to buy patience? Whenever I try they seem to be out of stock,
and I just dont have the patience to wait.


NT

NT wrote:

No need to buy a putty knife, a big kitchen knife would do fine, one
without fine serrations. Its preferable to run it down the join
several times than to dig it in and pull downward, less chance of
minor damage and easier.

A _kitchen_ knife??!! Okay if you have crap kitchen tools, but not if
you have good ones.

S Viemeister wrote:
NT wrote:

No need to buy a putty knife, a big kitchen knife would do fine, one
without fine serrations. Its preferable to run it down the join
several times than to dig it in and pull downward, less chance of
minor damage and easier.

A _kitchen_ knife??!! Okay if you have crap kitchen tools, but not if
you have good ones.

Nothing is as thin as a scraper, which is the main consideration.

larkim wrote:
Its hot. I'd like to open the windows at the top (to stop my children
falling out from their bedrooms accidentally). I have sash windows
that are painted shut at the top (possibly inside and out).

Where do I start?!?

TIA!

Matt
Stanley knife down the joints on either side to cut through the paint,
then a crowbar from outside at the top of the sash to lever it down.
This is the mirror of what I do to release a bottom sash.

Basically do what you can to release the stiction caused by the paint
between the sash and the frame and then use brute force to move the sash

Malcolm

Malcolm wrote:
larkim wrote:
Its hot. I'd like to open the windows at the top (to stop my children
falling out from their bedrooms accidentally). I have sash windows
that are painted shut at the top (possibly inside and out).

Where do I start?!?

TIA!

Matt
Stanley knife down the joints on either side to cut through the paint,
then a crowbar from outside at the top of the sash to lever it down.
This is the mirror of what I do to release a bottom sash.

Basically do what you can to release the stiction caused by the paint
between the sash and the frame and then use brute force to move the sash

Malcolm

The shape of a Stanley knife means it goes in at an angle, causing
unnecessary damage to either the beads or the sashes. A paint scraper is
your only man.

On 3 July, 08:47, Stuart Noble wrote:
Malcolm wrote:
larkim wrote:
Its hot. *I'd like to open the windows at the top (to stop my children
falling out from their bedrooms accidentally). *I have sash windows
that are painted shut at the top (possibly inside and out).

Where do I start?!?

TIA!

Matt
Stanley knife down the joints on either side to cut through the paint,
then a crowbar from outside at the top of the sash to lever it down.
This is the mirror of what I do to release a bottom sash.

Basically do what you can to release the stiction caused by the paint
between the sash and the frame and then use brute force to move the sash

Malcolm

The shape of a Stanley knife means it goes in at an angle, causing
unnecessary damage to either the beads or the sashes. A paint scraper is
your only man.

A snap-off blade knife, a new blade extended all the way out will bend
slightly so you can get it in parallel. You can snap off a few
sections before the blade gets too short to bend. Don't try to cut the
whole depth in one go.
Simon.

On Jul 2, 8:46*pm, Stuart Noble wrote:
S Viemeister wrote:
NT wrote:

No need to buy a putty knife, a big kitchen knife would do fine, one
without fine serrations. Its preferable to run it down the join
several times than to dig it in and pull downward, less chance of
minor damage and easier.

A _kitchen_ knife??!! *Okay if you have crap kitchen tools, but not if
you have good ones.

Nothing is as thin as a scraper, which is the main consideration.

Half the depth of the ground part of such knives tends to be thinner
than a scraper. You're not putting the whole depth of the knife in,
the paint penetration is limited.


NT

In article , Stuart
Noble writes
A paint scraper is
your only man.

I couldn't agree more, I've done it many times and it is the only tool
for the job, safe and effective.

I've never had to resort force by levering.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

NT wrote:
On Jul 2, 8:46 pm, Stuart Noble wrote:
S Viemeister wrote:
NT wrote:
No need to buy a putty knife, a big kitchen knife would do fine, one
without fine serrations. Its preferable to run it down the join
several times than to dig it in and pull downward, less chance of
minor damage and easier.

A _kitchen_ knife??!! Okay if you have crap kitchen tools, but not if
you have good ones.

Nothing is as thin as a scraper, which is the main consideration.

Half the depth of the ground part of such knives tends to be thinner
than a scraper. You're not putting the whole depth of the knife in,
the paint penetration is limited.


Buy a cheap knife for that purpose then, but leave the kitchen ones
alone. I hate seeing good tools mistreated.

NT wrote:
On Jul 2, 8:46 pm, Stuart Noble wrote:
S Viemeister wrote:
NT wrote:
No need to buy a putty knife, a big kitchen knife would do fine, one
without fine serrations. Its preferable to run it down the join
several times than to dig it in and pull downward, less chance of
minor damage and easier.
A _kitchen_ knife??!! Okay if you have crap kitchen tools, but not if
you have good ones.
Nothing is as thin as a scraper, which is the main consideration.

Half the depth of the ground part of such knives tends to be thinner
than a scraper. You're not putting the whole depth of the knife in,
the paint penetration is limited.


NT

You're mad