Hi All,

Do any of the North London based people who populate this group know of a
company called The Sash Window & Door Company Ltd based in Barnet? I'm
thinking of using them to do some installation and renovation to my windows
and wondered if anyone has had some experience of them (I'm making some
local inquiries as well).

Thanks for any help.

Endulini wrote:

Do any of the North London based people who populate this group know of a
company called The Sash Window & Door Company Ltd based in Barnet? I'm
thinking of using them to do some installation and renovation to my
windows and wondered if anyone has had some experience of them (I'm making
some local inquiries as well).

Sorry, don't know anything about that.
But if I could hang a query onto yours?

Can sash windows ever be made completely air-tight.
I live in an old building with very non-air-tight large sash windows,
and have fitted secondary glazing.
But I have often wondered if I could replace or renovate the sash windows
in such a way that the heat loss through them is negligible?

--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

In article , "Timothy Murphy"
says...
Endulini wrote:

Do any of the North London based people who populate this group know of a
company called The Sash Window & Door Company Ltd based in Barnet? I'm
thinking of using them to do some installation and renovation to my
windows and wondered if anyone has had some experience of them (I'm making
some local inquiries as well).

Sorry, don't know anything about that.
But if I could hang a query onto yours?

Can sash windows ever be made completely air-tight.
I live in an old building with very non-air-tight large sash windows,
and have fitted secondary glazing.
But I have often wondered if I could replace or renovate the sash windows
in such a way that the heat loss through them is negligible?


http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/article041.htm

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
t...




http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/article041.htm

Very nice site, thanks.

I wish we had sash windows, they're far superior to casements in every way,
I think.

Mary

In article , "Mary
Fisher" says...
snip
I wish we had sash windows, they're far superior to casements in every way,
I think.

I think my 1931 semi would look a bit strange with sash windows.

Mary Fisher wrote:

"Rob Morley" wrote in message

http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/article041.htm

Very nice site, thanks.

Agreed, thanks.
Though I was puzzled by one statement:

"4. Broken cords: in former times people re-corded their own windows -
the cords and sash weights were available at any ironmongers
(and still are at some)."

In former times?
What do people do now?

--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

Timothy Murphy wrote:
Mary Fisher wrote:


"Rob Morley" wrote in message


http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/article041.htm

Very nice site, thanks.


Agreed, thanks.
Though I was puzzled by one statement:

"4. Broken cords: in former times people re-corded their own windows -
the cords and sash weights were available at any ironmongers
(and still are at some)."

In former times?
What do people do now?

The cord is easy enough to get, and you rarely need new weights. What is
odd is that most houses seem to have the wrong weights for their sashes-
too heavy or too light, so one can only assume the sashes have been
replaced ar some time.
It's easy to minimise draughts on the lower sash by adjusting the staff
bead but the upper is a bugger because you can't move the parting bead,
and the other side of that you have the edge of the box. Any packing out
you do invariably stops the window moving freely.

Timothy Murphy wrote:

Can sash windows ever be made completely air-tight.
I live in an old building with very non-air-tight large sash windows,
and have fitted secondary glazing.
But I have often wondered if I could replace or renovate the sash windows
in such a way that the heat loss through them is negligible?

fairly straightforward job. Remove the sliding sashes (remove beading
and lift out), route a groove around 3 sides, and slot suitable brush
type draught excluder into the slot. Refit windows. You'll want to
repaint after doing this.

This stops any rattles too.

NT

"Timothy Murphy" wrote in message
...
Mary Fisher wrote:

"Rob Morley" wrote in message

http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/article041.htm

Very nice site, thanks.

Agreed, thanks.
Though I was puzzled by one statement:

"4. Broken cords: in former times people re-corded their own windows -
the cords and sash weights were available at any ironmongers
(and still are at some)."

In former times?
What do people do now?

There are companies which do it for you.

My father re-sashed our windows when I was a child and spouse did it when we
were first married in a different house- although he'd no experience of
them. It seemed very normal to me.

Mary

In message , Timothy Murphy
writes
Endulini wrote:

Do any of the North London based people who populate this group know of a
company called The Sash Window & Door Company Ltd based in Barnet? I'm
thinking of using them to do some installation and renovation to my
windows and wondered if anyone has had some experience of them (I'm making
some local inquiries as well).

Sorry, don't know anything about that.
But if I could hang a query onto yours?

Can sash windows ever be made completely air-tight.
I live in an old building with very non-air-tight large sash windows,
and have fitted secondary glazing.
But I have often wondered if I could replace or renovate the sash windows
in such a way that the heat loss through them is negligible?

The previous owners of this house solved the draughtiness problem by
just painting most of them up.....

Even with no draughts there will still be plenty of heatloss through the
glass though
--
Chris French

Stuart Noble wrote in news:LvbCe.1113
:

Timothy Murphy wrote:
Mary Fisher wrote:


"Rob Morley" wrote in message


http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/article041.htm

Very nice site, thanks.


Agreed, thanks.
Though I was puzzled by one statement:

"4. Broken cords: in former times people re-corded their own windows -
the cords and sash weights were available at any ironmongers
(and still are at some)."

In former times?
What do people do now?

The cord is easy enough to get, and you rarely need new weights. What is
odd is that most houses seem to have the wrong weights for their sashes-
too heavy or too light, so one can only assume the sashes have been
replaced ar some time.
It's easy to minimise draughts on the lower sash by adjusting the staff
bead but the upper is a bugger because you can't move the parting bead,
and the other side of that you have the edge of the box. Any packing out
you do invariably stops the window moving freely.

I thought that it was mostly the glass that made the difference. As I
recal, older (Victorian) glass was thinner than most modern glass, hence
any pane that had been replaced contributed to the weights being wrong.

--
Rod

On Sat, 16 Jul 2005 21:20:51 +0100, chris French
wrote:

In message , Timothy Murphy
writes
Endulini wrote:

Do any of the North London based people who populate this group know of a
company called The Sash Window & Door Company Ltd based in Barnet? I'm
thinking of using them to do some installation and renovation to my
windows and wondered if anyone has had some experience of them (I'm making
some local inquiries as well).

I don't know of the company but if its of any use to you regarding the
price.My quote was for the complete overhaul on 4 windows. The
overhaul was to consist of stripping the the windows and renewing
parting and staff beads. New bottom sashes to all four (one of which
has a separation bar between the panes). A new cill to one of the
four being overhauled and a completely new single paned box sash
window measuring about 800mm x1.2m. This includes measuring the
weights , installation of new window. price was betwwen £550 and £700
depending on the time it took.trying to narrow him on the price he
said 550 if it took a week but 700 max.Price for labour only .
Materials expected to be around 150.

BTW if your looking for sash windoe draught proofing and anf sash
window related sundries try http://www.mightonproducts.com/

wrote:
Timothy Murphy wrote:


Can sash windows ever be made completely air-tight.
I live in an old building with very non-air-tight large sash windows,
and have fitted secondary glazing.
But I have often wondered if I could replace or renovate the sash windows
in such a way that the heat loss through them is negligible?


fairly straightforward job. Remove the sliding sashes (remove beading
and lift out), route a groove around 3 sides, and slot suitable brush
type draught excluder into the slot. Refit windows. You'll want to
repaint after doing this.

This stops any rattles too.

NT

All very well except the groove that takes the rope is roughly as deep
as the parting bead so on most sashes you couldn't groove anything
deeper than 2 or 3 mm into the face. A thin metal plate with the brush
mounted on one edge, screwed to the edge of the sash and covering the
rope groove, might work.
I prefer to use a bit of folded cardboard if it gets windy, and call it
ventilation, breathing or whatever.

On Sat, 16 Jul 2005 16:01:19 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


I wish we had sash windows, they're far superior to casements in every way,
I think.

Handy for feeding furniture through ;-)

T i m

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 16 Jul 2005 16:01:19 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


I wish we had sash windows, they're far superior to casements in every
way,
I think.

Handy for feeding furniture through ;-)

Easier for cleaning outside.

Window sills fully usable - inside and out.

T i m

Rod wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote in news:LvbCe.1113
:


Timothy Murphy wrote:

Mary Fisher wrote:



"Rob Morley" wrote in message


http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/article041.htm

Very nice site, thanks.


Agreed, thanks.
Though I was puzzled by one statement:

"4. Broken cords: in former times people re-corded their own windows -
the cords and sash weights were available at any ironmongers
(and still are at some)."

In former times?
What do people do now?


The cord is easy enough to get, and you rarely need new weights. What is
odd is that most houses seem to have the wrong weights for their sashes-
too heavy or too light, so one can only assume the sashes have been
replaced ar some time.
It's easy to minimise draughts on the lower sash by adjusting the staff
bead but the upper is a bugger because you can't move the parting bead,
and the other side of that you have the edge of the box. Any packing out
you do invariably stops the window moving freely.


I thought that it was mostly the glass that made the difference. As I
recal, older (Victorian) glass was thinner than most modern glass, hence
any pane that had been replaced contributed to the weights being wrong.

I've come across many that were too *light* for their original weights.
Either way, you're right. Replacing glass with a different thickness is
the obvious answer.
I've been thinking of using strips of lead flashing as makeweights for a
couple of mine. Perhaps some ornamental window weights could be made for
those that are too light. Lead bunny rabbits maybe.

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...

I've been thinking of using strips of lead flashing as makeweights for a
couple of mine. Perhaps some ornamental window weights could be made for
those that are too light. Lead bunny rabbits maybe.

But they don't show ...

Mary

"Mary Fisher" wrote in
. net:


"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...

I've been thinking of using strips of lead flashing as makeweights
for a couple of mine. Perhaps some ornamental window weights could be
made for those that are too light. Lead bunny rabbits maybe.

But they don't show ...


But they *could* show - replace parts of the frame with perspex (or other
transparent sheet) and watch the weights in action!

I have a sort of a feeling that at least some old cast iron weights
actually had a hollow into which lead was poured. This wiuld allow some
adjustment. It's so long since I looked at one it could just be bad memory
- or perhaps just on some.

--
Rod

Mary Fisher wrote:

Though I was puzzled by one statement:

"4. Broken cords: in former times people re-corded their own windows -
the cords and sash weights were available at any ironmongers
(and still are at some)."

In former times?
What do people do now?

There are companies which do it for you.

I suppose I must do about one re-cording per year.
(We have a lot of windows.)
I'm not a great DIY man,
but this doesn't strike me as a very difficult job.
(On the other hand, the man who said it was easy
to "route a groove round three sides"
definitely over-estimated my DIY skills!)

I've never actually seen any advertisement for companies
(or even handymen) offering to re-cord sash windows.



--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

On 17 Jul 2005 20:32:31 GMT, Rod wrote:

"Mary Fisher" wrote in
.net:


"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...

I've been thinking of using strips of lead flashing as makeweights
for a couple of mine. Perhaps some ornamental window weights could be
made for those that are too light. Lead bunny rabbits maybe.

But they don't show ...


But they *could* show - replace parts of the frame with perspex (or other
transparent sheet) and watch the weights in action!

What an horrible thought :-)

--
Frank Erskine

Mary Fisher wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...


I've been thinking of using strips of lead flashing as makeweights for a
couple of mine. Perhaps some ornamental window weights could be made for
those that are too light. Lead bunny rabbits maybe.


But they don't show ...

Mary


They'd be on the visible part of the sash to increase the weight.
Somewhere near the lock I suppose.

Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
Timothy Murphy wrote:

Can sash windows ever be made completely air-tight.
I live in an old building with very non-air-tight large sash windows,
and have fitted secondary glazing.
But I have often wondered if I could replace or renovate the sash windows
in such a way that the heat loss through them is negligible?

fairly straightforward job. Remove the sliding sashes (remove beading
and lift out), route a groove around 3 sides, and slot suitable brush
type draught excluder into the slot. Refit windows. You'll want to
repaint after doing this.

This stops any rattles too.

All very well except the groove that takes the rope is roughly as deep
as the parting bead so on most sashes you couldn't groove anything
deeper than 2 or 3 mm into the face. A thin metal plate with the brush
mounted on one edge, screwed to the edge of the sash and covering the
rope groove, might work.
I prefer to use a bit of folded cardboard if it gets windy, and call it
ventilation, breathing or whatever.

the groove goes in the side, not the face. Its the standard way to do
them.

NT

"Rod" wrote in message
. 4...



But they *could* show - replace parts of the frame with perspex (or other
transparent sheet) and watch the weights in action!

Whatever turns you on!

I have a sort of a feeling that at least some old cast iron weights
actually had a hollow into which lead was poured. This wiuld allow some
adjustment. It's so long since I looked at one it could just be bad memory
- or perhaps just on some.

That rings a bell ... but no more.

Mary

--
Rod

"Timothy Murphy" wrote in message
...


I've never actually seen any advertisement for companies
(or even handymen) offering to re-cord sash windows.

We had something through the door the other day, I wonder if I kept it...
this estate has no sash windows at all.

Mind you, when I lived in a one up and down, straight onto the street (45
years ago), a chap came round trying to sell gardening books ...

Mary

wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:

wrote:

Timothy Murphy wrote:


Can sash windows ever be made completely air-tight.
I live in an old building with very non-air-tight large sash windows,
and have fitted secondary glazing.
But I have often wondered if I could replace or renovate the sash windows
in such a way that the heat loss through them is negligible?


fairly straightforward job. Remove the sliding sashes (remove beading
and lift out), route a groove around 3 sides, and slot suitable brush
type draught excluder into the slot. Refit windows. You'll want to
repaint after doing this.

This stops any rattles too.


All very well except the groove that takes the rope is roughly as deep
as the parting bead so on most sashes you couldn't groove anything
deeper than 2 or 3 mm into the face. A thin metal plate with the brush
mounted on one edge, screwed to the edge of the sash and covering the
rope groove, might work.
I prefer to use a bit of folded cardboard if it gets windy, and call it
ventilation, breathing or whatever.


the groove goes in the side, not the face. Its the standard way to do
them.

NT

But there's not much room for a groove in the edge. I'm looking at one
now where you have about 3/8" either side of the rope groove, so max
brush holder width could only be 1/8". Don't know why the rope has so
wide a groove, but it seems to be standard in those I've had dealings with.

In article , Stuart Noble
writes
wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:

wrote:

Timothy Murphy wrote:


Can sash windows ever be made completely air-tight.
I live in an old building with very non-air-tight large sash windows,
and have fitted secondary glazing.
But I have often wondered if I could replace or renovate the sash windows
in such a way that the heat loss through them is negligible?


fairly straightforward job. Remove the sliding sashes (remove beading
and lift out), route a groove around 3 sides, and slot suitable brush
type draught excluder into the slot. Refit windows. You'll want to
repaint after doing this.

This stops any rattles too.


All very well except the groove that takes the rope is roughly as deep
as the parting bead so on most sashes you couldn't groove anything
deeper than 2 or 3 mm into the face. A thin metal plate with the brush
mounted on one edge, screwed to the edge of the sash and covering the
rope groove, might work.
I prefer to use a bit of folded cardboard if it gets windy, and call it
ventilation, breathing or whatever.


the groove goes in the side, not the face. Its the standard way to do
them.

NT

But there's not much room for a groove in the edge. I'm looking at one
now where you have about 3/8" either side of the rope groove, so max
brush holder width could only be 1/8". Don't know why the rope has so
wide a groove, but it seems to be standard in those I've had dealings with.
All my sashes are 2" so there's plenty of room for machining but you can
use folded V-seals instead, I've used plastic but I think you can get copper
or brass ones too.
--
fred

fred wrote:

But there's not much room for a groove in the edge. I'm looking at one
now where you have about 3/8" either side of the rope groove, so max
brush holder width could only be 1/8". Don't know why the rope has so
wide a groove, but it seems to be standard in those I've had dealings with.

All my sashes are 2" so there's plenty of room for machining but you can
use folded V-seals instead, I've used plastic but I think you can get copper
or brass ones too.
The ones I've used tend to flatten permanently under pressure

I presume the price is per window (one week each) otherwise he is miles
out: either doesn't know what he's doing or is desperate for work.

cheers

Jacob

On Sat, 16 Jul 2005 09:39:10 +0000 (UTC), "Endulini"
wrote:

Hi All,

Do any of the North London based people who populate this group know of a
company called The Sash Window & Door Company Ltd based in Barnet? I'm
thinking of using them to do some installation and renovation to my windows
and wondered if anyone has had some experience of them (I'm making some
local inquiries as well).

Thanks for any help.


Take a look at this company:-
http://www.sashproltd.co.uk/window-c...g-supply.shtml

Iam considering using them myself. I have already replaced 4 sash
windows in my Victorian house at a cost of £500 each for the materials
but then I came across this lot. Wished I'd heard about them before.
Maris

In article , Maris
writes

Take a look at this company:-
http://www.sashproltd.co.uk/window-c...g-supply.shtml

Iam considering using them myself. I have already replaced 4 sash
windows in my Victorian house at a cost of £500 each for the materials
but then I came across this lot. Wished I'd heard about them before.
Maris

They sounded really good until I got to the 'Carbon Emissions' section
and then I plonked them, can't be doing with that over hyped approach.

Have you looked at Reddiseals? They have gone the brushpile route, not
sure which I prefer.

http://www.reddiseals.com/acatalog/sash_windows.html
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

On Wed, 1 Jul 2009 21:40:58 +0100, fred wrote:

In article , Maris
writes

Take a look at this company:-
http://www.sashproltd.co.uk/window-c...g-supply.shtml

Iam considering using them myself. I have already replaced 4 sash
windows in my Victorian house at a cost of £500 each for the materials
but then I came across this lot. Wished I'd heard about them before.
Maris

They sounded really good until I got to the 'Carbon Emissions' section
and then I plonked them, can't be doing with that over hyped approach.

Have you looked at Reddiseals? They have gone the brushpile route, not
sure which I prefer.

http://www.reddiseals.com/acatalog/sash_windows.html

Thanks for the lead. I hadn't heard of them.Until now I've been using
Mighton for the ironmongery. Not sure you should dismiss Sashpro
because of something in their descriptions. I'm impressed by the
thickness (or lack of) of their double-glazed units. I was put off
double-glazed sashed until now because of the heaviness of the timber
sections but Sashpro seem to have founda solution (as well as the
seals).
Maris