I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!

Distorted Vision coughed up some electrons that declared:

I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!

Not stupid at all...

My amateur trick is to slice with sides with a junior hacksaw, snap out with
pliers, punch the inner skin with a screwdriver (if applicable) and finish
with a few strokes of a 1/4" full size coarse square file through the lot.
Dead neat and nice square smooth edges - not the fastest way though. If
doing a lot, I pre-prep them in one go on the bench with a big cup of
coffee.

Wonder what the pro's do?

Cheers

Tim

Distorted Vision wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!

Sounds like you could save yourself a lot of work here. Take all the
accessories off, temporarily making the wires safe, and run em all
through the dishwasher. Give them all a full week in a warm dry room
to dry out, and they'll all be ready to refit, as clean as new. You
might want to insulation check them for peace of mind - the success
record is extremely good.


NT

In article
,
Distorted Vision wrote:
Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Use decent metal clad units for surface mount. Much stronger. And in the
scheme of things not really much more expensive.

--
*Corduroy pillows are making headlines.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

wrote in message
...
Distorted Vision wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!

Sounds like you could save yourself a lot of work here. Take all the
accessories off, temporarily making the wires safe, and run em all
through the dishwasher. Give them all a full week in a warm dry room
to dry out, and they'll all be ready to refit, as clean as new. You
might want to insulation check them for peace of mind - the success
record is extremely good.


NT

As the plastic is not porous why should they need such extensive drying?

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Distorted Vision coughed up some electrons that declared:

I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!

Not stupid at all...

My amateur trick is to slice with sides with a junior hacksaw, snap out
with
pliers, punch the inner skin with a screwdriver (if applicable) and finish
with a few strokes of a 1/4" full size coarse square file through the lot.
Dead neat and nice square smooth edges - not the fastest way though. If
doing a lot, I pre-prep them in one go on the bench with a big cup of
coffee.

Wonder what the pro's do?

Cheers

Tim

Usually the knockouts do not need to look perfect as they are covered by
trunking. I use my wirecutters to break the knockouts. If the knockout needs
to look good then it is hacksaw time.

Adam

ARWadsworth wrote:
"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Distorted Vision coughed up some electrons that declared:

I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!
Not stupid at all...

My amateur trick is to slice with sides with a junior hacksaw, snap out
with
pliers, punch the inner skin with a screwdriver (if applicable) and finish
with a few strokes of a 1/4" full size coarse square file through the lot.
Dead neat and nice square smooth edges - not the fastest way though. If
doing a lot, I pre-prep them in one go on the bench with a big cup of
coffee.

Wonder what the pro's do?

Cheers

Tim

Usually the knockouts do not need to look perfect as they are covered by
trunking. I use my wirecutters to break the knockouts. If the knockout needs
to look good then it is hacksaw time.

Adam


Have also used a Dremel cutting disc for this. Maybe someone with
experience can manage by applying judicious wallops. Not me!

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:40:55 UTC, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Distorted Vision coughed up some electrons that declared:

I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!

Not stupid at all...

My amateur trick is to slice with sides with a junior hacksaw, snap out
with
pliers, punch the inner skin with a screwdriver (if applicable) and finish
with a few strokes of a 1/4" full size coarse square file through the lot.
Usually the knockouts do not need to look perfect as they are covered by
trunking. I use my wirecutters to break the knockouts. If the knockout needs
to look good then it is hacksaw time.

Dremel.
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:40:55 UTC, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Distorted Vision coughed up some electrons that declared:

I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!

Not stupid at all...

My amateur trick is to slice with sides with a junior hacksaw, snap out
with
pliers, punch the inner skin with a screwdriver (if applicable) and
finish
with a few strokes of a 1/4" full size coarse square file through the
lot.
Usually the knockouts do not need to look perfect as they are covered by
trunking. I use my wirecutters to break the knockouts. If the knockout
needs
to look good then it is hacksaw time.

Dremel.
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

There should be a some sort of grommet or seal to make it look better.

On Tue, 27 Jan 2009 21:38:27 UTC, "John"
wrote:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:40:55 UTC, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Distorted Vision coughed up some electrons that declared:

I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!

Not stupid at all...

My amateur trick is to slice with sides with a junior hacksaw, snap out
with
pliers, punch the inner skin with a screwdriver (if applicable) and
finish
with a few strokes of a 1/4" full size coarse square file through the
lot.
Usually the knockouts do not need to look perfect as they are covered by
trunking. I use my wirecutters to break the knockouts. If the knockout
needs
to look good then it is hacksaw time.

Dremel.

There should be a some sort of grommet or seal to make it look better.

Mine usually end up with trunking on them if they are surface knockouts.
Even just the trunking 'terminator' is a bit like a grommet and could be
used...

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

John wrote:
wrote in message
...
Distorted Vision wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!

Sounds like you could save yourself a lot of work here. Take all the
accessories off, temporarily making the wires safe, and run em all
through the dishwasher. Give them all a full week in a warm dry room
to dry out, and they'll all be ready to refit, as clean as new. You
might want to insulation check them for peace of mind - the success
record is extremely good.


NT

As the plastic is not porous why should they need such extensive drying?

They also contain semi-closed cavities, making evaporation slow, and
you really dont want to fit anything with moisture still in it. A week
is overkill, but its meant to be.


NT

Putting the fittings in the dishwasher isn't really an option since
they are in use every day so a week is impossible. Besides some of
them are scratched or cracked. White moulded switches and sockets are
so cheap so I want to replace them.

I realised just after posting that a hacksaw or a Dremel is whats
needed. I haven't used my Dremel for ages so I'll have to check I've
got some cutting discs. Tim I was trying to get hold a square file. I
assume a full size file means its 8" long? I also can't find a coarse
one most of the ones I've found are second cut. Does it make much
difference? I found this:

http://www.mptools.co.uk/products.asp?partno=DR44956

Would this be suitable?

Cheers!

In article
,
Distorted Vision wrote:
I realised just after posting that a hacksaw or a Dremel is whats
needed. I haven't used my Dremel for ages so I'll have to check I've
got some cutting discs.

Complete waste of time for a job this small - a junior hacksaw will do
just fine.

Tim I was trying to get hold a square file. I
assume a full size file means its 8" long? I also can't find a coarse
one most of the ones I've found are second cut. Does it make much
difference? I found this:

A set of needle files is ideal for this sort of thing.

--
*With her marriage she got a new name and a dress.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wibbled:

In article
,
Distorted Vision wrote:
I realised just after posting that a hacksaw or a Dremel is whats
needed. I haven't used my Dremel for ages so I'll have to check I've
got some cutting discs.

Complete waste of time for a job this small - a junior hacksaw will do
just fine.

Yes - that hacksaw takes just a few strokes so it's not really an effort.

Tim I was trying to get hold a square file. I
assume a full size file means its 8" long? I also can't find a coarse
one most of the ones I've found are second cut. Does it make much
difference? I found this:

A set of needle files is ideal for this sort of thing.


Needles work too. I happened to have a big (prob 8" long) to hand and being
just a little less wide than the hole also required only a few strokes to
clean up - and it squares everything off without really trying.

Cheers

Tim

wrote in message
...
Distorted Vision wrote:
I'm in the process of replacing some of the switches and surface
moulded boxes in our house for cosmetic reasons. Some of the switches
are really dirty, scratched etc and some the moulded surface boxes are
cracked etc.

Anyway I have a question and I know its going to sound really stupid
to alot of you. But what is the best of breaking the knockouts on the
moulded boxes to ensure clean straight edges. The first one I tried I
used a pair of plier but it was a bit of a mess - good job they are so
cheap.
Am I missing something here. Is there a recommended way.

Many thanks!

Sounds like you could save yourself a lot of work here. Take all the
accessories off, temporarily making the wires safe, and run em all
through the dishwasher. Give them all a full week in a warm dry room
to dry out, and they'll all be ready to refit, as clean as new. You
might want to insulation check them for peace of mind - the success
record is extremely good.


NT


If your dishwasher fixes cracked plastic surface mount boxes please give me
the name and model no of your dishwasher. I could do with some easy money.

Adam

Mine still don't come out too neat. The problem is when I use the
pliers after cutting with a hacksaw it makes a mess of it instead of
leaving a clean straight edge. Maybe a tile scribe and nipper might do
the trick?

Distorted Vision coughed up some electrons that declared:

Mine still don't come out too neat. The problem is when I use the
pliers after cutting with a hacksaw it makes a mess of it instead of
leaving a clean straight edge. Maybe a tile scribe and nipper might do
the trick?

Unless you're really unlucky, the pliers should break it off "short", then
you can clean up with a file. I've only found that it over-breaks (chips
the box well beyond the hole area) if you don't use a hacksaw first to
slice the side.

As I mentioned previously, I've found a big (8" ish) square file to be
particulalry quick and effective.

Cheers

Tim

Hi Tim,

Yes thats exactly whats happening it chips it beyond the hole. I might
try with different pliers but thats why I was thinking of using a tile
nipper instead.

Cheers!

On 5 Feb, 08:48, Tim S wrote:
Distorted Vision coughed up some electrons that declared:

Mine still don't come out too neat. The problem is when I use the
pliers after cutting with a hacksaw it makes a mess of it instead of
leaving a clean straight edge. Maybe a tile scribe and nipper might do
the trick?

Unless you're really unlucky, the pliers should break it off "short", then
you can clean up with a file. I've only found that it over-breaks (chips
the box well beyond the hole area) if you don't use a hacksaw first to
slice the side.

As I mentioned previously, I've found a big (8" ish) square file to be
particulalry quick and effective.

Cheers

Tim

Distorted Vision coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi Tim,

Yes thats exactly whats happening it chips it beyond the hole. I might
try with different pliers but thats why I was thinking of using a tile
nipper instead.

Try deliberately breaking it short - don't present the end of the pliers
right upto the back edge of the snap line.

In article
,
Distorted Vision wrote:
Mine still don't come out too neat. The problem is when I use the
pliers after cutting with a hacksaw it makes a mess of it instead of
leaving a clean straight edge. Maybe a tile scribe and nipper might do
the trick?

Given you'll be seeing the cable if you can see the knockout, does it
really matter? Most would use trunking to avoid seeing the cable and this
would also cover up the knockout.

--
*Someday, we'll look back on this, laugh nervously and change the subject

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Some of the sockets I'm replacing in the garage don't have trunking so
the knockout is clearly visible. What is the best way to fit trunking?
I assume they have self adhesive at the back will this allow fixing to
brick etc? Does the cable need to be secured within the trunking?

On 5 Feb, 09:54, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
* *Distorted Vision wrote:

Mine still don't come out too neat. The problem is when I use the
pliers after cutting with a hacksaw it makes a mess of it instead of
leaving a clean straight edge. Maybe a tile scribe and nipper might do
the trick?

Given you'll be seeing the cable if you can see the knockout, does it
really matter? Most would use trunking to avoid seeing the cable and this
would also cover up the knockout.

--
*Someday, we'll look back on this, laugh nervously and change the subject

* * Dave Plowman * * * * * * * * London SW
* * * * * * * * * To e-mail, change noise into sound.