Another one for your additional input...


NT



==Lubricating oils==
Oils whose primary use is for lubrication.

===Machine oil===
Machine oil is a thin light petrolum oil used for undemanding
lubrication, such as small machinery, hand tools etc. It is also
widely used to thinly coat steel tools before export, preventing rust.

Sewing machines and many other appliances use machine oil.

Baby oil is machine oil with a little mild perfume added, and this is
a very convenient way to buy machine oil for many DIYers. (The method
of its extraction from babies remains a closely guarded secret.)


===Engine oil===
Engine oils are excellent lubricants. They are highly stable petroleum
derived oils, with additives to enhance their stability even further.

20/50 was once the most common engine oil grade, but 10/30 took over
as the dominant grade a couple of decades ago. 10/30 is less viscous,
and pumping it uses less energy.


===Used engine oil===
Used engine oil is blackened by engine deposits and assorted burnt
matter. It still lubricates, but the potential for toxicity of a
contaminant and its dirtiness make it unpopular for DIY use.

50/50 engine oil and paraffin or diesel has long been used to preserve
woodwork. Its effective and cheap, but dark in colour and contains
unspecified engine contaminants. New oil and paraffin is a better
alternative, with neither of these issues.


===Castor oil===
Castor oil was the original engine oil, and the source of the name
Castrol. Its still available for historic vehicles designed to use it.
It is a fixed grade of oil, unlike today's multigrades, hence its
viscosity varies considerably with temperature. It is much more prone
to gumming than modern engine oils, and is not suitable for today's
engines.


===Gear oil===
Related to engine oil, gear oils are designed to survive higher shear
forces than engine oils. Engine oil is not recommended for gearboxes
(with the exception of the original Mini)


===2 stroke oil===
Another petroleum lubricating oil.


===Silicone oil===
A high price oil occasionally used as a DIY lubricant.


==Fuel oils==
Oils primarily used as fuels


===Diesel, 35 second oil===
Red diesel and 35 second oil are the same product. Also known as gas
oil.

Red diesel is only legal for non-road uses.

Its occasionally used as heating oil for old installations. 35 and 28
second oils aren't interchangeable, 35 second requires a larger burner
jet and causes more heat exchanger fouling.

Red diesel has 2 markers, one visible (red), one not. These stain
filters.

Tankers are labelled UN1202.

Despite being a petroleum product, diesel is not easy to ignite.
Applying a naked flame to a pool of diesel isn't likely to light it.


===Paraffin===
Best known as a fuel for heating & blowlamps, paraffin has several
other uses too
* insect repellant
* mix with oil to make a penetrating oil
* engine oil flushing additive
* cleaner especially effective for all types of vehicle & road dirts,
oils, tars, bitumen, etc

Paraffin can be used neat for cleaning car parts, or it can be mixed
with water & a detergent.

Paraffin is now also known as:
* premium kerosene
* kerosene C1
* premium burning oil (PBO)

Paraffin has been dyed with several different colours over time,
including blue, pink, yellow, green.


===Heating oil, 28 second oil===
aka
* 28 second heating oil,
* kerosene
* kerosene C2
* Tankers are labelled UN1223

Widely used for central heating. Its a less refined grade of
paraffin.

Since it can run an engine it contains an invisible marker to detect
illegal on-road use. Its not the same grade as road diesel, its
thinner, but it works.

Supply of 28 second oil is a competitive market, and worth phoning
around.


===Lamp oil===
Deodorised dyed paraffin, avoids creating the famous oil heater whiff.


==Other oils==
===Oil thickener===
Very thick oils are used on their own in speed reducing devices, eg in
devices to slow the opening of cassette deck doors.

They are also added to car engines to thicken the engine oil, reducing
the blue smoke output of worn engines.

Oil thickeners are available from car accessory shops.


===Penetrating oil===
Penetrating oil is a mix of thin oil and an agent such as paraffin
which cuts the oil's viscosity.

Penetrating oils are able to penetrate tiny gaps and help unseize
corroded fixings. These are much used in car repair.

If no penetrating oil is to hand, a mix of thin oil and a viscosity
cutter (eg paraffin) works.


===hydraulic oil===
As used in hydraulic jacks. what type is this?
(Brake fluid is not oil)


==Decorator's oils==
Mostly used in finishing

===Linseed oil===
* Thins oil based paints, but greatly extends drying time.
* Enables water based paints to adhere to a greater range of surfaces
(mix in 1-2% linseed oil)
* Makes a range of putties & mastics
* Thins linseed putty
* Makes tack rags
* Used in some finishing oil mixtures for wood

Raw linseed oil is just linseed oil. Boiled linseed oil is today
linseed oil plus chemical dryers. Boiled oil sets to a gum in time,
raw either doesn't or takes an extremely long time. Boiled should be
used in all the above applications, though raw is also fine for tack
rags.


===Tung oil===


===Danish oil===


==Additives & alternatives==
===Engine oil & paraffin===
A 50/50 mix has several uses.
* wood preservative
* penetrating oil
* corrosion inhibitor - but it becomes slightly sticky

===Graphite===
Graphite is a solid lubricant. Graphite powder is sometimes added to
oils to improve lubrication, and in some cases can even be used
instead of oil. Its electrically conductive.

===Teflon===
Teflon is another solid lubricant, and much the same can be said for
it as graphite.

===Paraffin===
Can be added to oil to cut its viscosity temporarily. However it
eventually evporates.

===Vegetable oil===
Several plant derived oils are used for cooking. These lubricate, but
over time they gum up badly. This greatly limits their use, but
they're fine for jobs such as lubricating [[screws]]. Feeding the
DIYer is the main use.


===Margerine===
Most margerines are plant oil (sometimes fish oil) based, with a large
percentage of added water. These can sometimes be used as a last ditch
lubricant, but they gum up eventually. The water content dries out,
but can cause corrosion.


==Hair oils==
A spoonful of oil added to a litre of shampoo acts as a hair
conditioner. Commercial conditioners tend to use thick oils such as
palm oil, castor oil, jojoba oil etc.

===Palm oil===
Palm oil is thick semi-solid natural oil, and a traditional hair
conditioner in some countries. Its available from asian grocery
stores, and can be added to shampoo to give conditioning properties.

===Castor oil===
Castor oil is another effective conditioning additive, but
availability is poor, and allergic reaction to the castor bean is a
known, albeit rare, phenomenon.

===Engine oil===
Engine oil is very effective as a hair conditioner (added to shampoo),
but it should not be used due to its entirely unsuitable additives.

===Vegetable oil===
Its not as effective as engine oil, but is safe to use. Vegetable
cooking oils are thinnner than the more usual conditioning oils, and
this works better for some hair types, and less well for some.


==Branded products==
A few branded products are well known in DIY and deserve their own
mention. The well known brands can all be replaced with other good
products at a fraction of the cost.


===3 in 1===
3 in 1 is a brand of oil that attempts to be 3 things in one:
lubricating oil, penetrating oil and corrosion prevention. Since these
3 tasks have conflicting requirements its impossible to make a good
job of them with one product.

Since its prone to becoming gummy its not recommended as a lubricant.
The cans it comes in are handy.


===WD40===
WD stands for 'water displacer.' Water displacers are of very limited
use in DIY today, primarily used to reduce rusting of tools in damp
storage. Machine oil is the product of choice for this.

WD40 also acts as a penetrating oil, though there are cheaper and in
some people's opinion better brands out there, such as plusgas.

WD40 is not recommended as a lubricant.

The manufacturer claims [http://www.wd40.co.uk/media/images/LIST%20OF
%202,000%20USES11.pdf 2000 uses for WD40]. While many of these are not
uses we would rush to recommend, and many are simply duplication,
there are some practical ones too. [http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/
household/wd-40.asp More uses & information].

Many appliances have been ruined by the indiscriminate application of
WD40. It is not a cure-all and there are common products and materials
to which it should not be applied.


===Swarfega===
Paraffin gel with additives. Paraffin alone makes quite a good
substitute.


==Oil kit==
Inevitably opinions vary on this, so this list is just intended as a
quick starting point guide.

A good kit of oils for DIY may contain:
* Machine oil (thin lubricant, rust prevention)
* Engine oil (thick lubricant, car)
* Paraffin (cleaning, insect repellant, additive)
* Penetrating oil (frees corroded fixings)
* Linseed oil (paints, putties, polishes etc)


==Not usable==
The following might tempt the ocasional DIYer, but are not usable for
DIY.

===Petrol===
Petrol deserves a brief mention simply because is is not usable for
any DIY use outside of running engines, but occasionally a DIYer
decides to try it as a substitute. Its highly volatile and creates an
explosive cloud of gas/air mixture. Inhaling the amount of fumes
caused by painting with it causes anything from migraine to death.

Petrol tankers are marked UN1203


==Smoky engines==
While there is more than one possible cause, vehicles with smoky
engines are usually suffering from wear, which allows tiny amounts of
engine oil into the cylinder, where it is burnt, producing smoke. This
gets past worn valve seals more often than piston rings.

Replacing 10/30 with 20/50 is often done to reduce smoking. Adding an
oil thickener can reduce smoke output further. These are of course not
proper cures and not manufacturer recommended, but have got a lot of
cars through MOTs.


==Plumbing==
Oil lines should use only compression fittings.


==Storage==
New oil tanks must now be bunded to prevent contamination in case of
leakage.

Storage of large amounts of highly flammable fuel oils is strictly
regulated by law.


==Spills==
Cleanup methods include:
* caustic soda
* paraffin
* hot pressure washing
* burning the contaminated materials


==Disposal==
Reusing the oil for something else is sometimes an option. Otherwise
oils should be disposed of at the local tip, where its recycled.

Heating boilers have occasionally been modified to burn used engine
oil. This is cheap to run, but there are concerns over contaminants,
and the relatively viscous oil must be preheated before the boiler can
fire.


==See Also==
* [[Grease]]
* [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]]
* [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]



[[Category:Heating]]
[[Category:Fixings]]
[[Category:Cleaning]]
[[Category:Paint]]

Nose oil - used when applying gold leaf.

And not a single mention of olive oil - extra virgin or otherwise!
That's chutzpah.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 10:37:26 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Paraffin has been dyed with several different colours over time,
including blue, pink, yellow, green.

As a marketing tool, "boom boom boom Esso Blue", can't remember whose was
pink but I think there was a panther involved.

Since it can run an engine it contains an invisible marker to detect
illegal on-road use. Its not the same grade as road diesel, its
thinner, but it works.

Heating oil now carries a visible yellow marker dye.

Supply of 28 second oil is a competitive market, and worth phoning
around.

It also tracks the price of crude with not much lag. So if crude prices
are trending down hold off buying, if trending up buy...

though raw is also fine for tack rags.

Is it cotton and raw(?) linseed oil that can spontaneously combust?

Teflon is another solid lubricant, and much the same can be said for
it as graphite.

Teflon is a trade name from DuPont(?) for polytetrafluoroethene PTFE.

Storage of large amounts of highly flammable fuel oils is strictly
regulated by law.

Delete "highly", to me that implies petrol or other light oils but not
kerosenes or diesel but the storage of all is regulated.

--
Cheers
Dave.

wrote:

===Used engine oil===
Used engine oil is blackened by engine deposits and assorted burnt
matter. It still lubricates, but the potential for toxicity of a
contaminant and its dirtiness make it unpopular for DIY use.

In metalwork[1] at school we used it to blue things made out of mild
steel. Is that a standard use?

[1] Formally entitled "Design and Technology: Resistant Materials
Technology". FFS.

Several plant derived oils are used for cooking. These lubricate, but
over time they gum up badly.

Yeah - when I was about ten I lubricated my Mammod steam engine with it
and seized it up solid.

Engine oil is very effective as a hair conditioner (added to shampoo),

!!!

Heating boilers have occasionally been modified to burn used engine
oil. This is cheap to run, but there are concerns over contaminants,
and the relatively viscous oil must be preheated before the boiler can
fire.

Probably worth mentioning that there are heaters (for workshops etc)
that are purpose-built for burning old engine oil.

If you'd put it on the wiki I could have edited it directly :-)

Pete

wrote:
Another one for your additional input...
SNIP

===WD40===
WD stands for 'water displacer.' Water displacers are of very limited
use in DIY today, primarily used to reduce rusting of tools in damp
storage. Machine oil is the product of choice for this.

Could someone explain the apparent witch hunt of WD40 around here? IMO its
an excellent product.

Has anyone done a controlled test on its rust prevention qualities against
machine oil?

WD40 also acts as a penetrating oil, though there are cheaper and in
some people's opinion better brands out there, such as plusgas.

Granted its not a specific penetrating oil, but as a 'one stop' multi
purpose product its pretty good at many things.

WD40 is not recommended as a lubricant.

Not by whom? It clearly is a lubricant. I've used it on hinges, locks,
fans, tools, padlocks and all sorts of other things.

SNIP

Many appliances have been ruined by the indiscriminate application of
WD40.

Like what? Do we have any evidence? Why would it harm anything? I've got
padlocks on sheds & gates 20+ years old, given a squirt of WD40 annually and
none have gummed up or gone sticky - they all work perfectly.

It is not a cure-all and there are common products and materials to which
it should not be applied.

Again, what shouldn't it be applied to? I've never damaged anything with
it.

We certainly shouldn't be putting opinions like this on the Wiki unless they
have some scientific evidence.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 10:37:26 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Paraffin has been dyed with several different colours over time,
including blue, pink, yellow, green.

As a marketing tool, "boom boom boom Esso Blue", can't remember whose was
pink but I think there was a panther involved.


Aladdin pink.

And there was Fina Green Paraffin.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 21:17:39 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

wrote:




Many appliances have been ruined by the indiscriminate application of
WD40.

Like what? Do we have any evidence? Why would it harm anything? I've got
padlocks on sheds & gates 20+ years old, given a squirt of WD40 annually and
none have gummed up or gone sticky - they all work perfectly.

It is not a cure-all and there are common products and materials to which
it should not be applied.

Again, what shouldn't it be applied to? I've never damaged anything with
it.

We certainly shouldn't be putting opinions like this on the Wiki unless they
have some scientific evidence.

Hmm, for reasons I can't really quantify, I am rather predisposed against
placing too much reliance on WD40 or similar squirt-on products.

It *is* excellent at dispersing damp on ht leads, it helps with shifting
accumulations of crud when carrying out some half-hearted maintenance on
cheap power tools, and it can also help where, for want of a better
description, 'coarse' lubrication is needed, like on gate hinges, bolts,
etc.

I certainly wouldn't consider using it as lubrication where there's a
fairly heavy duty cycle. Somehow I couldn't see the valve gear on a steam
loco lasting too long with just a squirt of WD40.

Horses for courses an' all that! It's really down to common sense.....

--

The Wanderer

Statistics show that statistics can't be trusted.

On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 20:19:22 UTC, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

Paraffin has been dyed with several different colours over time,
including blue, pink, yellow, green.

As a marketing tool, "boom boom boom Esso Blue", can't remember whose was
pink but I think there was a panther involved.

Correction! :-)

It was "boom boom boom boom Esso Blue"!

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

Bob Eager wrote:
On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 20:19:22 UTC, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

Paraffin has been dyed with several different colours over time,
including blue, pink, yellow, green.

As a marketing tool, "boom boom boom Esso Blue", can't remember whose was
pink but I think there was a panther involved.

Correction! :-)

It was "boom boom boom boom Esso Blue"!

It was Aladdin Pink (parafin), I think.

--
Chris Green

Bob Eager wrote:
On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 20:19:22 UTC, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

Paraffin has been dyed with several different colours over time,
including blue, pink, yellow, green.

As a marketing tool, "boom boom boom Esso Blue", can't remember whose was
pink but I think there was a panther involved.

Correction! :-)

It was "boom boom boom boom Esso Blue"!


.... and "Esso Esso blue blue blue blue"

I don't remember this, but it's so good:

They asked me how I knew
It was Esso Blue,
I of course replied
With lower grades one buys
Smoke gets in your eyes.

And:

Man sits on floor confronting paraffin heater, and a voice answers his
questions to a jingling little tune

Man: Ive got a cold house.
Voice: Why dont you heat it?
Man: My heaters empty, I think.
Voice: Why dont you fill it?
Man: Im out of paraffin.
Voice: Well now thats easy, ring for Pink.
Man: Now can you tell me, what will it cost me?
Voice: Less than a penny an hour.
Man: Thats fine. (sung as one line) Now can you tell me, who will
deliver it?
Voice: the dealer where you see this sign, see this sign, (annoying
jingly sound) see this sign.

Apparently, 'they' also sold White May - same as Pink but uncoloured.
And it was cheaper.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 21:17:39 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

WD40 is not recommended as a lubricant.

Not by whom? It clearly is a lubricant. I've used it on hinges, locks,
fans, tools, padlocks and all sorts of other things.

In my experience a squeaky door "lubricated" with WD40 will become a
squeaky door again. One lubricated with a proper oil doesn't.

I've got padlocks on sheds & gates 20+ years old, given a squirt of WD40
annually and none have gummed up or gone sticky - they all work
perfectly.

That's 'casue you keep adding back the volatiles that have evaporated. It
does leave a residue over time from a thick gum to a dry varnish like
layer depending on the enviroment. The "wetter gum" stages are sticky and
any muck floating about will get stuck. When the kit is operated/used this
muck then gets drawn into the mechanisium and increases the rate of wear.
This probably isn't an issue for a shed padlock but for something in
constant use...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 21:17:39 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:


Could someone explain the apparent witch hunt of WD40 around here? IMO its
an excellent product.

Has anyone done a controlled test on its rust prevention qualities against
machine oil?

WD40 also acts as a penetrating oil, though there are cheaper and in
some people's opinion better brands out there, such as plusgas.

Granted its not a specific penetrating oil, but as a 'one stop' multi
purpose product its pretty good at many things.

WD40 is not recommended as a lubricant.

Not by whom? It clearly is a lubricant. I've used it on hinges, locks,
fans, tools, padlocks and all sorts of other things.

I had a wander around B&Q today, and noticed that they now stock a
reasonable range of 3 in 1 "sprays".

SNIP

Many appliances have been ruined by the indiscriminate application of
WD40.

Like what? Do we have any evidence? Why would it harm anything? I've got
padlocks on sheds & gates 20+ years old, given a squirt of WD40 annually and
none have gummed up or gone sticky - they all work perfectly.

It is not a cure-all and there are common products and materials to which
it should not be applied.

Again, what shouldn't it be applied to? I've never damaged anything with
it.

I'm sure we've all had _some_ sort of "success" with the dreaded
WD-40, but there are much better products for every one of its claims.
It's a sort of "Jack of all trades and master of none".

We certainly shouldn't be putting opinions like this on the Wiki unless they
have some scientific evidence.

I don't think it's an awfully good idea to "advertise" particular
makes of product on Wiki...

--
Frank Erskine

After serious thinking The Medway Handyman wrote :
Could someone explain the apparent witch hunt of WD40 around here? IMO its
an excellent product.

I find it works as a quick, but temporary fix. It soon evaporates and
stops working, but leaving a sticky deposit behind. I have had cans
where there has been a slight leak. All that is left is a thick sticky
mess which attracts dirt with little in the way of lubrication
properties. I find it does excel at cleaning things such as dirty, oily
grubby rear wheels on motor bikes due to the chain lubrication - spray
on, wipe the dirt off.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
wrote:
Another one for your additional input...
SNIP

===WD40===
WD stands for 'water displacer.' Water displacers are of very limited
use in DIY today, primarily used to reduce rusting of tools in damp
storage. Machine oil is the product of choice for this.

Could someone explain the apparent witch hunt of WD40 around here? IMO its
an excellent product.

Has anyone done a controlled test on its rust prevention qualities against
machine oil?

I would assume that the Ministry of Defense did that many years ago.

If, as I have, you had worked on defense projects, it would have brought
you into contact with far superior oils and greases. Trust the wiki on
WD 40, it is a water dispersant. Most of the other stuff in it is quite
good though.

Dave

===Machine oil===
Machine oil is a thin light petrolum oil used for undemanding
lubrication, such as small machinery, hand tools etc. It is also
widely used to thinly coat steel tools before export, preventing rust.

Sewing machines and many other appliances use machine oil.

Baby oil is machine oil with a little mild perfume added, and this is
a very convenient way to buy machine oil for many DIYers. (The method
of its extraction from babies remains a closely guarded secret.)


Baby oil / liquid paraffin / white oil for medicinal use are very highly
refined.

Machine oil is a very loose term, it may refer to "edible oils" as use on
bacon
slicing machines, etc, but it may not. I would expect sewing machine oil to
contain various additives, some of which you might not want to put on
babies.

For "domestic" use I certainly wouldn't use medicinal oil for rust
prevention,
I'd use 3 in 1.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 21:17:39 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

WD40 is not recommended as a lubricant.

Not by whom? It clearly is a lubricant. I've used it on hinges,
locks, fans, tools, padlocks and all sorts of other things.

In my experience a squeaky door "lubricated" with WD40 will become a
squeaky door again. One lubricated with a proper oil doesn't.

I've got padlocks on sheds & gates 20+ years old, given a squirt of
WD40 annually and none have gummed up or gone sticky - they all work
perfectly.

That's 'casue you keep adding back the volatiles that have
evaporated. It does leave a residue over time from a thick gum to a
dry varnish like layer depending on the enviroment. The "wetter gum"
stages are sticky and any muck floating about will get stuck. When
the kit is operated/used this muck then gets drawn into the
mechanisium and increases the rate of wear. This probably isn't an
issue for a shed padlock but for something in constant use...

My garage padlock is used at least once a day, 7 days a week. Good as new.

I suspect the predudice surrounding WD40 is because (a) its American & (b)
its hugely successful.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember saying something
like:

Baby oil is machine oil with a little mild perfume added,

Palm oil.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember saying something
like:

paraffin.

Since it can run an engine it contains an invisible marker to detect
illegal on-road use. Its not the same grade as road diesel, its
thinner, but it works.

Only if you want to wreck your HP pump. It contain very little of the
lubricity required for diesel injection systems, especially the Common
Rail modern ones.
Caterpillar have a tech doc on their website relating to kero, JP, and
Biodiesel in their highway engines. Google for "caterpillar engine on
kerosene" and you'll find it.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Rod saying
something like:

As a marketing tool, "boom boom boom Esso Blue", can't remember whose was
pink but I think there was a panther involved.


Aladdin pink.

David Bowie.

On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 00:19:24 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:


I suspect the predudice surrounding WD40 is because (a) its American & (b)
its hugely successful.

No, just accept that soome people have a different opinion of the stuff as
an all-purpose lubricant than do you

--

The Wanderer

Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information
available.

wrote:
Another one for your additional input...


WD40


Has anyone done a controlled test on its rust prevention qualities against
machine oil?

Machine oil is the standard coating for imported steel tools. WD40 is
simply not used for this. I think the tool industry knows what its
doing - and its not hard to see why they dont pick WD40.


sure we've all had _some_ sort of "success" with the dreaded
WD-40, but there are much better products for every one of its claims.
It's a sort of "Jack of all trades and master of none".

quite - with the one exception of water displacement, which is what it
was designed for, and its good at that. The other claimed uses seem to
be more about marketing, especially lubrication, which its truly bad
at.


I suspect the predudice surrounding WD40 is because (a) its American & (b)
its hugely successful.

hardly. Its just a lousy performer and many times the price of decent
products.

Any junk grade lube works on locks, hinges etc, but when things get
more demanding, wd can really screw things up. I'd quote Arfa Daily's
piece on what and how it damages, but I cant find the address.



Linseed

Is it cotton and raw(?) linseed oil that can spontaneously combust?

Yes, theres already a separate article on tack rags.


thanks everyone!


NT

OK... version 2:



==Lubricating oils==
Oils whose primary use is for lubrication.

===Machine oil===
Machine oils are a class of thin light petrolum oils used for
undemanding lubrication, such as small machinery, hand tools etc. They
are also widely used to thinly coat steel tools before export,
preventing rust.

Sewing machines and many other appliances use machine oil.

Some machine oils are edible, such as for use on food processing
equipment, some are not.


===Baby oil===
Baby oil is a higly refined petroleum oil, much like a food grade
machine oil, with a little mild perfume added, and this is a very
convenient way to buy a machine oil for many DIYers. (The method of
its extraction from babies remains a closely guarded secret.)


===Engine oil===
Engine oils are excellent lubricants. They are highly stable petroleum
derived oils, with additives to enhance their stability even further.

20/50 was once the most common engine oil grade, but 10/30 took over
as the dominant grade a couple of decades ago. 10/30 is less viscous,
and pumping it uses less energy.


===Used engine oil===
Used engine oil is blackened by engine deposits and assorted burnt
matter. It still lubricates, but the potential for toxicity of a
contaminant and its dirtiness make it unpopular for DIY use.

50/50 engine oil and paraffin or diesel has long been used to preserve
woodwork. Its effective and cheap, but dark in colour and contains
unspecified engine contaminants. New oil and paraffin is a better
alternative, with neither of these issues.

Used or new engine oil can be used for steel hardening.


===Castor oil===
Castor oil was the original engine oil, and the source of the name
Castrol. Its still available for historic vehicles designed to use it.
It is a fixed grade of oil, unlike today's multigrades, hence its
viscosity varies considerably with temperature. It is much more prone
to gumming than modern engine oils, and is not suitable for today's
engines.


===Gear oil===
Related to engine oil, gear oils are designed to survive higher shear
forces than engine oils. Engine oil is not recommended for gearboxes
(with the exception of the original Mini)


===2 stroke oil===
Another petroleum lubricating oil.


===Silicone oil===
A high price oil occasionally used as a DIY lubricant.


==Fuel oils==
Oils primarily used as fuels


===Diesel, 35 second oil===
Red diesel and 35 second oil are the same product. Also known as gas
oil.

Red diesel is only legal for non-road uses.

Its occasionally used as heating oil for old installations. 35 and 28
second oils aren't interchangeable, 35 second requires a larger burner
jet and causes more heat exchanger fouling.

Red diesel has 2 markers, one visible (red), one not. These stain
filters.

Tankers are labelled UN1202.

Despite being a petroleum product, diesel is not easy to ignite.
Applying a naked flame to a pool of diesel isn't likely to light it.


===Paraffin===
Best known as a fuel for heating & blowlamps, paraffin has several
other uses too
* insect repellant
* mix with oil to make a penetrating oil
* engine oil flushing additive
* cleaner especially effective for all types of vehicle & road dirts,
oils, tars, bitumen, etc

Paraffin can be used neat for cleaning car parts, or it can be mixed
with water & a detergent.

Paraffin is now also known as:
* premium kerosene
* kerosene C1
* premium burning oil (PBO)

Paraffin has been dyed with several different colours over time,
including blue, pink, yellow, green.


===Heating oil, 28 second oil===
aka
* 28 second heating oil,
* kerosene
* kerosene C2
* Tankers are labelled UN1223

Widely used for central heating. Its a less refined grade of
paraffin.

Since it can run an engine it contains a yellow dye plus a 2nd
invisible marker to detect illegal on-road use. Its not the same grade
as road diesel, its thinner, but it does work. The long term effects
of this vary widely depending on the engine, some designs are tolerant
of it long term, some not.

Supply of 28 second oil is a competitive market that tracks crude oil
prices. Its worth phoning around and pitting the suppliers against
each other.


===Lamp oil===
Deodorised dyed paraffin, avoids creating the famous oil heater whiff.


==Other oils==
===Oil thickener===
Very thick oils are used on their own in speed reducing devices, eg in
devices to slow the opening of cassette deck doors.

They are also added to car engines to thicken the engine oil, reducing
the blue smoke output of worn engines.

Oil thickeners are available from car accessory shops.


===Penetrating oil===
Penetrating oil is a mix of thin oil and an agent such as paraffin
which cuts the oil's viscosity.

Penetrating oils are able to penetrate tiny gaps and help unseize
corroded fixings. These are much used in car repair.

If no penetrating oil is to hand, a mix of thin oil and a viscosity
cutter (eg paraffin) works.


===hydraulic oil===
As used in hydraulic jacks. what type is this?
(Brake fluid is not oil)


==Decorator's oils==
Mostly used in finishing

===Linseed oil===
* Thins oil based paints, but greatly extends drying time.
* Enables water based paints to adhere to a greater range of surfaces
(mix in 1-2% linseed oil)
* Makes a range of putties & mastics
* Thins linseed putty
* Makes tack rags
* Used in some finishing oil mixtures for wood

Raw linseed oil is just linseed oil. Boiled linseed oil is today
linseed oil plus chemical dryers. Boiled oil sets to a gum in time,
raw either doesn't or takes an extremely long time. Boiled should be
used in all the above applications, though raw is also fine for tack
rags.


===Tung oil===


===Danish oil===


==Additives & alternatives==
===Engine oil & paraffin===
A 50/50 mix has several uses.
* wood preservative
* penetrating oil
* corrosion inhibitor - but it becomes slightly sticky

===Graphite===
Graphite is a solid lubricant. Graphite powder is sometimes added to
oils to improve lubrication, and in some cases can even be used
instead of oil. Its electrically conductive.

===PTFE===
PTFE aka Teflon is another solid lubricant, and much the same can be
said for it as graphite.

===Paraffin===
Can be added to oil to cut its viscosity temporarily. However it
eventually evporates.

===Vegetable oil===
Several plant derived oils are used for cooking. These lubricate, but
over time they gum up badly. This greatly limits their use, but
they're fine for jobs such as lubricating [[screws]]. Feeding the
DIYer is the main use.


===Margerine===
Most margerines are plant oil (sometimes fish oil) based, with a large
percentage of added water. These can sometimes be used as a last ditch
lubricant, but they gum up eventually. The water content dries out,
but can cause corrosion.


==Hair oils==
A spoonful of oil added to a litre of shampoo acts as a hair
conditioner. Commercial conditioners tend to use thick oils such as
palm oil, castor oil, jojoba oil etc.

===Palm oil===
Palm oil is thick semi-solid natural oil, and a traditional hair
conditioner in some countries. Its available from asian grocery
stores, and can be added to shampoo to give conditioning properties.

===Castor oil===
Castor oil is another effective conditioning additive, but
availability is poor, and allergic reaction to the castor bean is a
known, albeit rare, phenomenon.

===Engine oil===
Engine oil is very effective as a hair conditioner (added to shampoo),
but it should not be used due to its entirely unsuitable additives.

===Vegetable oil===
Its not as effective as engine oil, but is safe to use. Vegetable
cooking oils are thinnner than the more usual conditioning oils, and
this works better for some hair types, and less well for some.


==Branded products==
A few branded products are well known in DIY and deserve their own
mention. The well known brands can all be replaced with other good
products at a fraction of the cost.


===3 in 1===
3 in 1 is a brand of oil that attempts to be 3 things in one:
lubricating oil, penetrating oil and corrosion prevention. Since these
3 tasks have conflicting requirements its impossible to make a good
job of them with one product.

Since its prone to becoming gummy its not recommended as a lubricant.
The cans it comes in are handy.


===WD40===
WD stands for 'water displacer.' Water displacers are of limited use
in DIY today, primarily used
* to reduce rusting of tools in damp storage
* to start wet power tools.

Machine oil is the temporary coating of choice for preventing rust,
and is widely used as a rust preventing coating on imported steel
tools.

WD40 also acts as a penetrating oil, though there are cheaper and in
some people's opinion better brands out there, such as plusgas.

WD40 is not recommended as a lubricant as it contains more solvent
than oil, and becomes gummy.

WD40 can be used as a cleaner in some situations since it contains
Stoddard's solvent. Paraffin is a much cheaper alternative that doesnt
leave the sticky residue.

The manufacturer claims [http://www.wd40.co.uk/media/images/LIST%20OF
%202,000%20USES11.pdf 2000 uses for WD40]. While many of these are not
uses we would rush to recommend, and many are simply duplication,
there are some practical ones too. [http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/
household/wd-40.asp More uses & information].

Many appliances have been ruined by the indiscriminate application of
WD40. It is not a cure-all and there are common products and materials
to which it should not be applied. These include rubber products, some
plastics,


===Swarfega===
Paraffin gel with additives. Paraffin alone makes quite a good
substitute.


==Oil kit==
Inevitably opinions vary on this, so this list is just intended as a
quick starting point guide.

A good kit of oils for DIY may contain:
* Machine oil (thin lubricant, rust prevention)
* Engine oil (thick lubricant, car)
* Paraffin (cleaning, insect repellant, additive)
* Penetrating oil (frees corroded fixings)
* Linseed oil (paints, putties, polishes etc)


==Not usable==
The following might tempt the ocasional DIYer, but are not usable for
DIY.

===Petrol===
Petrol deserves a brief mention simply because is is not usable for
any DIY use outside of running engines, but occasionally a DIYer
decides to try it as a substitute. Its highly volatile and creates an
explosive cloud of gas/air mixture. Inhaling the amount of fumes
caused by painting with it causes anything from migraine to death.

Petrol tankers are marked UN1203


==Smoky engines==
While there is more than one possible cause, vehicles with smoky
engines are usually suffering from wear, which allows tiny amounts of
engine oil into the cylinder, where it is burnt, producing smoke. This
gets past worn valve seals more often than piston rings.

Replacing 10/30 with 20/50 is often done to reduce smoking. Adding an
oil thickener can reduce smoke output further. These are of course not
proper cures and not manufacturer recommended, but have got a lot of
cars through MOTs.


==Plumbing==
Oil lines should use only compression fittings.


==Storage==
New oil tanks must now be bunded to prevent contamination in case of
leakage.

Storage of large amounts of flammable fuel oils is strictly regulated
by law.


==Spills==
Cleanup methods include:
* caustic soda
* paraffin
* hot pressure washing
* burning the contaminated materials


==Disposal==
Reusing the oil for something else is sometimes an option. Otherwise
oils should be disposed of at the local tip, where its recycled.

Heating boilers have occasionally been modified to burn used engine
oil. This is cheap to run, but there are concerns over contaminants,
and the relatively viscous oil must be preheated before the boiler can
fire.

Its now possible to buy commercial workshop heaters that run on used
engine oil.


==See Also==
* [[Grease]]
* [ original article discussion]
* [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]]
* [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]



[[Category:Heating]]
[[Category:Fixings]]
[[Category:Cleaning]]
[[Category:Paint]]

3-in-1 should be written 3-IN-ONE (according to WD40, who now own it).

http://wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=16

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 21:17:39 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

WD40 is not recommended as a lubricant.
Not by whom? It clearly is a lubricant. I've used it on hinges,
locks, fans, tools, padlocks and all sorts of other things.
In my experience a squeaky door "lubricated" with WD40 will become a
squeaky door again. One lubricated with a proper oil doesn't.

I've got padlocks on sheds & gates 20+ years old, given a squirt of
WD40 annually and none have gummed up or gone sticky - they all work
perfectly.
That's 'casue you keep adding back the volatiles that have
evaporated. It does leave a residue over time from a thick gum to a
dry varnish like layer depending on the enviroment. The "wetter gum"
stages are sticky and any muck floating about will get stuck. When
the kit is operated/used this muck then gets drawn into the
mechanisium and increases the rate of wear. This probably isn't an
issue for a shed padlock but for something in constant use...

My garage padlock is used at least once a day, 7 days a week. Good as new.

I suspect the predudice surrounding WD40 is because (a) its American & (b)
its hugely successful.



It's mineral oil with a solvent so that it can be sprayed and squirted
into inaccessible places. The residue that's left when the solvent
evaporates is oil, so I can't see the problem.

On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 01:42:58 -0800 (PST), wrote:

===Graphite===
Graphite is a solid lubricant. Graphite powder is sometimes added to
oils to improve lubrication, and in some cases can even be used
instead of oil. Its electrically conductive.

Also used as a powder to lubricate locks, as it is "dry" and does not
attract dirt.

===PTFE===
PTFE aka Teflon is another solid lubricant, and much the same can be
said for it as graphite.

PTFE is an insulator and breaks down releaseing flourine based compounds
if it gets too hot. You don't want to be getting in contact with the break
down products. I forget the break down temperature but it's properties
degrade above 260C.

It is also a dry lubricant like graphite.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 01:37:57 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Linseed

Is it cotton and raw(?) linseed oil that can spontaneously combust?

Yes, theres already a separate article on tack rags.

Linked from this page?

--
Cheers
Dave.

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Another one for your additional input...
SNIP

===WD40===
WD stands for 'water displacer.' Water displacers are of very limited
use in DIY today, primarily used to reduce rusting of tools in damp
storage. Machine oil is the product of choice for this.

Could someone explain the apparent witch hunt of WD40 around here? IMO
its an excellent product.

http://yarchive.net/chem/wd40.html


-

On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 01:42:58 +0000, Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

As a marketing tool, "boom boom boom Esso Blue", can't remember whose
was pink but I think there was a panther involved.


Aladdin pink.

Hum, maybe it was genie that was entwined around the pump up at the local
shops. But I can't see anything on the web other than the delivery vans,
the paraffin used for car part cleaning was definitely pink though and we
had to go and get it using our old metal 1 gallon oil can.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 00:19:24 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

I suspect the predudice surrounding WD40 is because (a) its American &
(b) its hugely successful.

Since when have either of those been good endorsements of a product.

WD40 has had good marketing but when it comes down to it it is not even
approaching mediocre from many of the jobs it gets promoted or used used
for. It can be a quick fix but in my experience the same problem will
return, probably worse, within a year or two. Where as using a proper
lubricant would cure the problem full stop.

--
Cheers
Dave.

stuart noble wrote:

It's mineral oil with a solvent so that it can be sprayed and squirted
into inaccessible places. The residue that's left when the solvent
evaporates is oil, so I can't see the problem.


The problem is that many people resent success. WD40 is a hugely
successful product, so it generates a lot of resentment.

Similar comments apply to 3 in 1 oil, McDonald's hamburgers, Kellogg's
Corn Flakes and basically anything, anyone or any organisation that
makes a profit.

This leads to a belief that, if you buy any one of these successful
products, you must have been short changed.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "The Medway Handyman"
saying something like:

I suspect the predudice surrounding WD40 is because (a) its American & (b)
its hugely successful.

I have no prejudice against it at all. It's just largely overpriced,
ineffective in the long term, is all. I've used it and still use it, but
I much prefer a lever squirty bottle with a 50/50 mix of engine oil and
diesel.

On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 15:01:16 UTC, Bruce wrote:

stuart noble wrote:

It's mineral oil with a solvent so that it can be sprayed and squirted
into inaccessible places. The residue that's left when the solvent
evaporates is oil, so I can't see the problem.

The problem is that many people resent success. WD40 is a hugely
successful product, so it generates a lot of resentment.

Rubbish....it isn't a lubricant, it's a water displacer. And very good
at that job, too. I like it, for the proper applications.

Similar comments apply to 3 in 1 oil, McDonald's hamburgers, Kellogg's
Corn Flakes

I like all of those, anyway.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

The. Wanderer wrote:

On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 00:19:24 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:


I suspect the predudice surrounding WD40 is because (a) its American & (b)
its hugely successful.

No, just accept that soome people have a different opinion of the stuff as
an all-purpose lubricant than do you

It's not going to happen. Despite being told and given the evidence that
WD-40 was designed as a water dispersant to aid damp starting of CI
petrol engines, the Medway Prat insists on believing that it is a
lubricant.

wrote:
OK... version 2:




===WD40===
WD stands for 'water displacer.' Water displacers are of limited use
in DIY today, primarily used
* to reduce rusting of tools in damp storage
* to start wet power tools.

I'm not with the last bit? Start wet power tools?

Machine oil is the temporary coating of choice for preventing rust,
and is widely used as a rust preventing coating on imported steel
tools.

But that doesn't mean WD40 won't do the job - and again where is the
evidence?

WD40 also acts as a penetrating oil, though there are cheaper and in
some people's opinion better brands out there, such as plusgas.

Its not sold specifically as a penetrating oil, its a multi purpose product.

And thats the point you are missing. One can of WD40 can replace half a
dozen cans of specific products.

WD40 is not recommended as a lubricant as it contains more solvent
than oil, and becomes gummy.

Not reccommended by whom? There is an insignificant amount of anecdotal
evidence against, and an even smaller amount in favour. That doesn't prove
the case. Its advertised as a lubricant & made in the USA - I'm pretty sure
there would be law suits flying about if that claim wasn't (at least in
part) true.

WD40 can be used as a cleaner in some situations since it contains
Stoddard's solvent. Paraffin is a much cheaper alternative that doesnt
leave the sticky residue.

Arrrggggh!!! What sticky residue? I've been using it for donkeys years &
never come across any shape or form of residue - sticky or otherwise.

SNIP

Many appliances have been ruined by the indiscriminate application of
WD40. It is not a cure-all and there are common products and materials
to which it should not be applied. These include rubber products, some
plastics,

You simply can't say that without some kind of evidence. I've just e-mailed
WD40 to ask if its safe on rubber & plastics - lets see what they have to
say.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

wrote:
wrote:
Another one for your additional input...


WD40


Has anyone done a controlled test on its rust prevention qualities
against machine oil?

Machine oil is the standard coating for imported steel tools. WD40 is
simply not used for this. I think the tool industry knows what its
doing - and its not hard to see why they dont pick WD40.

No it isn't hard to see - its price. WD40 is more expensive. Which doesn't
mean it doesn't work.


sure we've all had _some_ sort of "success" with the dreaded
WD-40, but there are much better products for every one of its
claims. It's a sort of "Jack of all trades and master of none".

Thats exactly what it claims to be - a multi purpose product.

quite - with the one exception of water displacement, which is what it
was designed for, and its good at that. The other claimed uses seem to
be more about marketing, especially lubrication, which its truly bad
at.

Compared to what? Bisto? It lubricates.

I suspect the predudice surrounding WD40 is because (a) its American
& (b) its hugely successful.

hardly. Its just a lousy performer and many times the price of decent
products.

Makes you wonder why they sell millions of cans a day doesn't it?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 01:37:57 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Linseed

Is it cotton and raw(?) linseed oil that can spontaneously combust?

Yes, theres already a separate article on tack rags.

Linked from this page?

I'll do the links once its live, makes it hard to read otherwise


NT

"Bob Eager" wrote:

On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 15:01:16 UTC, Bruce wrote:

stuart noble wrote:

It's mineral oil with a solvent so that it can be sprayed and squirted
into inaccessible places. The residue that's left when the solvent
evaporates is oil, so I can't see the problem.

The problem is that many people resent success. WD40 is a hugely
successful product, so it generates a lot of resentment.

Rubbish....it isn't a lubricant, it's a water displacer.


Who cares? I didn't make any claims for what it did, merely stated
that it is a hugely successful product, which is undeniable.


I seriously doubt that WD40 would sell in anywhere near the quantities
it does if it was remotely as bad as its critics allege.


Similar comments apply to 3 in 1 oil, McDonald's hamburgers, Kellogg's
Corn Flakes

I like all of those, anyway.


For every one of those products, there are people like you who carp
and criticise, claiming that they aren't any good or don't live up to
the hype. Yet despite you and your kind, all these products are
hugely successful.

You must find that extremely irritating.

"The Medway Handyman" wrote:

Makes you wonder why they sell millions of cans a day doesn't it?


Exactly!

;-)

In article ,
Bruce wrote:
stuart noble wrote:

It's mineral oil with a solvent so that it can be sprayed and squirted
into inaccessible places. The residue that's left when the solvent
evaporates is oil, so I can't see the problem.


The problem is that many people resent success. WD40 is a hugely
successful product, so it generates a lot of resentment.

Just shows the power of advertising and the gullibility of those who
believe it.

Similar comments apply to 3 in 1 oil, McDonald's hamburgers, Kellogg's
Corn Flakes and basically anything, anyone or any organisation that
makes a profit.

Ah. You do live on some sink estate. Kellogg's cornflakes have more
nutritional value in the cardboard packet than contents. MacDonalds are
basically rubbish. Plenty of fast food available in the UK which is better
for you and better value too.

This leads to a belief that, if you buy any one of these successful
products, you must have been short changed.

Anything which claims to do a multitude of tasks is always a compromise
compared to one optimised for a particular job.

--
*A dog's not just for Christmas, it's alright on a Friday night too*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The Medway Handyman coughed up some electrons that declared:


Makes you wonder why they sell millions of cans a day doesn't it?



Fiat's single handed effort at installing crap ignition systems in the 70's,
probably accounted more most of the sales in the 70's - that and
EasyStart...