Hi,

Couldn't find this in the FAQ or WIKI (sorry if I missed it).

Spurred on by Dave P's comments on lead free solder, I thought I should tart
up my solding skills before attempting any real work, so off to B&Q to get
a bit of pipe and some fittings.

I've done yorkshire fittings quite successfully before - I know about
cleaning the pipe+fitting and using the correct flux.

This time, I thought I'd try end feed.

Net result, both leaded and lead free joints I did looked like they are
sound (need to cut them open to really see) but they also ended up looking
like the solder-monster puked up on them! I managed to solder both sides of
a straight coupling from one side - so clearly I used way too much solder.

The solder I was using at about 3mm thick (both types) is rather heavier
than I'm used to handling for electronics which didn't help.

How do you gauge when you've fed enough solder in? Any tips on getting the
pipe to the right temperature would also be appreciated. I heated the
fitting with a blowlamp until the solder melted, and then some. I did
notice that the lead-free seemed to go from solid to practically water
instantaneously, where the leaded had more of a plastic phase.

Cheers

Tim

Stephen Howard coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 13:50:40 +0100, Tim S wrote:


snip

How do you gauge when you've fed enough solder in? Any tips on getting the
pipe to the right temperature would also be appreciated. I heated the
fitting with a blowlamp until the solder melted, and then some. I did
notice that the lead-free seemed to go from solid to practically water
instantaneously, where the leaded had more of a plastic phase.

It's something of a knack really - I tend to rely on the sound the
flux makes when it reaches a certain temperature.
It gets complicated when you're using solders with different
characteristics, as what works for one type might not work for
another.

Hi Stephen,

Flux sound - check. I did notice it making noises - I'll try to pay some
attention to this next time. I'm using Fluxite for leaded (because that's
what my Dad used) and Powerflow Lead Free Solder Flux for the other.

Getting the right amount of solder in is largely down to trial and
error ( aka experience ) and what I tend to look for is how fast the
capillary action is during the course of the job.
It gets tricky near the end of the job because you can reach a point
where there's slightly too much solder in the joint, but not so much
that the surface tension can't hold it in. One drop of solder past
this point and the tension breaks, which results in solder either
being blown out of the joint or simply running out.

Ah

As regards the heat, ideally you want to raise the joint to the melt
point of the solder as quickly as possible - but thereafter the heat
should be thought of in terms of maintaining that level rather than
exceeding it. With a trigger controlled gas gun you can vary a direct
flame - with a standard torch you have to resort to moving the flame
off and on the joint ( playing the flame ).

'Nads - if I'd known this I might have got a different torch. Mine does have
a thumb-wheel - perhaps I can adjust it one handed - I'll try.

One method of determining how much solder to use is to crimp the
solder wire every centimetre or so, which acts as a visual guide to
how much solder's gone into the joint - if your joint flooded with
3cms then next time you'll know to be cautious once 2cms have gone in.

That's a very good idea - I'm going to try that. I tend to over do things
rather than risk under doing them.

A simple trick for heavier gauges of solder wire is to flatten it with
a hammer.

Another excellent suggestion.

Thanks Stephen, I'm going to try again tonight or tomorrow - we'll see how
it goes.

Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:
Stephen Howard coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 13:50:40 +0100, Tim S wrote:


snip

How do you gauge when you've fed enough solder in? Any tips on getting the
pipe to the right temperature would also be appreciated. I heated the
fitting with a blowlamp until the solder melted, and then some. I did
notice that the lead-free seemed to go from solid to practically water
instantaneously, where the leaded had more of a plastic phase.

It's something of a knack really - I tend to rely on the sound the
flux makes when it reaches a certain temperature.
It gets complicated when you're using solders with different
characteristics, as what works for one type might not work for
another.

Hi Stephen,

Flux sound - check. I did notice it making noises - I'll try to pay some
attention to this next time. I'm using Fluxite for leaded (because that's
what my Dad used) and Powerflow Lead Free Solder Flux for the other.

Getting the right amount of solder in is largely down to trial and
error ( aka experience ) and what I tend to look for is how fast the
capillary action is during the course of the job.
It gets tricky near the end of the job because you can reach a point
where there's slightly too much solder in the joint, but not so much
that the surface tension can't hold it in. One drop of solder past
this point and the tension breaks, which results in solder either
being blown out of the joint or simply running out.

Ah

Doesn't really matter if you have too MUCH solder..it juts makes an ugly
blobby mess..but you can wipe that off while its molten with a thick cloth.

You only need a small ring of solder held in by capillary action inside
the joint.

The key to getting that is to wire wool the pipe exterior and the
connector interior, if its anything but shiny new, wipe flux all over
the ]ipe, strick it togeher and heat te whole lot BEYND the melting point.

Then solder will simply wick into where it needs to go, and, provided
enough is in, form a watertight seal. There is no actual necessity to
fill the whole hole!
I have had mist leaks as a result of not being able to get the whole
pipe hot enough, or minute pinholes blown in the solder by e.g. it being
the last fitment on a closed system of pipework.

In article , Tim S
wrote:
Hi,

Couldn't find this in the FAQ or WIKI (sorry if I missed it).

Spurred on by Dave P's comments on lead free solder, I thought I should
tart up my solding skills before attempting any real work, so off to B&Q
to get a bit of pipe and some fittings.

I've done yorkshire fittings quite successfully before - I know about
cleaning the pipe+fitting and using the correct flux.

This time, I thought I'd try end feed.

Net result, both leaded and lead free joints I did looked like they are
sound (need to cut them open to really see) but they also ended up
looking like the solder-monster puked up on them! I managed to solder
both sides of a straight coupling from one side - so clearly I used way
too much solder.

Sometimes you can only really get to one side - or rather not to the back.
The solder monster bit doesn't really matter except for looks. But you can
give the joint a wipe with a thick slightly damp rag while the solder is
molten to remove any excess. But make sure you don't move the pipes while
doing this.

The solder I was using at about 3mm thick (both types) is rather heavier
than I'm used to handling for electronics which didn't help.

How do you gauge when you've fed enough solder in? Any tips on getting
the pipe to the right temperature would also be appreciated. I heated
the fitting with a blowlamp until the solder melted, and then some. I
did notice that the lead-free seemed to go from solid to practically
water instantaneously, where the leaded had more of a plastic phase.

Cheers

Tim

--
*Virtual reality is its own reward*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 13:50:40 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Hi,

Couldn't find this in the FAQ or WIKI (sorry if I missed it).

Spurred on by Dave P's comments on lead free solder, I thought I should tart
up my solding skills before attempting any real work, so off to B&Q to get
a bit of pipe and some fittings.

I've done yorkshire fittings quite successfully before - I know about
cleaning the pipe+fitting and using the correct flux.

This time, I thought I'd try end feed.

Net result, both leaded and lead free joints I did looked like they are
sound (need to cut them open to really see) but they also ended up looking
like the solder-monster puked up on them! I managed to solder both sides of
a straight coupling from one side - so clearly I used way too much solder.

The solder I was using at about 3mm thick (both types) is rather heavier
than I'm used to handling for electronics which didn't help.

How do you gauge when you've fed enough solder in? Any tips on getting the
pipe to the right temperature would also be appreciated. I heated the
fitting with a blowlamp until the solder melted, and then some. I did
notice that the lead-free seemed to go from solid to practically water
instantaneously, where the leaded had more of a plastic phase.

It's something of a knack really - I tend to rely on the sound the
flux makes when it reaches a certain temperature.
It gets complicated when you're using solders with different
characteristics, as what works for one type might not work for
another.

Getting the right amount of solder in is largely down to trial and
error ( aka experience ) and what I tend to look for is how fast the
capillary action is during the course of the job.
It gets tricky near the end of the job because you can reach a point
where there's slightly too much solder in the joint, but not so much
that the surface tension can't hold it in. One drop of solder past
this point and the tension breaks, which results in solder either
being blown out of the joint or simply running out.

As regards the heat, ideally you want to raise the joint to the melt
point of the solder as quickly as possible - but thereafter the heat
should be thought of in terms of maintaining that level rather than
exceeding it. With a trigger controlled gas gun you can vary a direct
flame - with a standard torch you have to resort to moving the flame
off and on the joint ( playing the flame ).
One method of determining how much solder to use is to crimp the
solder wire every centimetre or so, which acts as a visual guide to
how much solder's gone into the joint - if your joint flooded with
3cms then next time you'll know to be cautious once 2cms have gone in.

A simple trick for heavier gauges of solder wire is to flatten it with
a hammer.

Regards,


--
Steve ( out in the sticks )
Email: Take time to reply: timefrom_usenet{at}gmx.net

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes:
Doesn't really matter if you have too MUCH solder..it juts makes an ugly
blobby mess..but you can wipe that off while its molten with a thick cloth.

Well, it can hide the joint so you can see if it's soldered
properly, and if you've got so much it's run down the outside
of the pipe, it may have done the same on the inside too, or
left gobs of free solder inside the pipework.

You only need a small ring of solder held in by capillary action inside
the joint.

Yes, you can see this by a tiny silver ring appearing around
the join.

The key to getting that is to wire wool the pipe exterior and the
connector interior, if its anything but shiny new, wipe flux all over
the ]ipe,

and inside the fitting

strick it togeher and heat te whole lot BEYND the melting point.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel coughed up some electrons that declared:

snip
left gobs of free solder inside the pipework.

I had this on one of my practise joints, so it *can* happend.

You only need a small ring of solder held in by capillary action inside
the joint.

Yes, you can see this by a tiny silver ring appearing around
the join.

The key to getting that is to wire wool the pipe exterior and the
connector interior, if its anything but shiny new, wipe flux all over
the ]ipe,

and inside the fitting

I used one of these:

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...-deburrer.html

Seems very good.

Cheers

Tim

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 15:10:35 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

snip

Doesn't really matter if you have too MUCH solder..it juts makes an ugly
blobby mess..but you can wipe that off while its molten with a thick cloth.

It can do - if you put so much in that it breaks the surface tension,
it can pull solder out of the joint. Depends how much of a gap there
is to be filled. When you come to wipe the joint it reveals a gap,
which might go right into the joint.
In such cases it might be best to leave the mess - but you might end
up with a pinhole sooner or later.

It's one of those 'one in a hundred' likelihoods, but it's sod's law
that when you set to soldering a joint there'll be 99 other people out
there doing exactly the same job at the same time.

Regards,



--
Steve ( out in the sticks )
Email: Take time to reply: timefrom_usenet{at}gmx.net

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
Well, it can hide the joint so you can see if it's soldered
properly, and if you've got so much it's run down the outside
of the pipe, it may have done the same on the inside too, or
left gobs of free solder inside the pipework.

I wondered about that years ago and cut open one which I'd deliberately
used too much solder on - and it didn't have excess solder inside.
Possibly due to the capillary action only taking what it needs?

--
*If work is so terrific, how come they have to pay you to do it?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I wondered about that years ago and cut open one which I'd deliberately
used too much solder on - and it didn't have excess solder inside.
Possibly due to the capillary action only taking what it needs?

I think that's spot on. Soldr gets drawn into the joint by capillary
action. When the solder gets as far as the inside of the fitting
capillary action is acting in the opposite direction. It is possible to
over-solder when the fitting is mounted vertically, of course because
gravity takes over.

In article ,
Tim S writes:

I used one of these:

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...-deburrer.html

Seems very good.

I've tried a few things, but nothing brings up the shine like a
bit of wire wool wrapped around your finger. I seem to have a
little finger designed for 15mm fittings, and a 22mm thumb...

For deburring, I use this type of tool
http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...ring-tool.html
although I've got a better Record one (don't think they exist
anymore). Need to be careful you don't slip and take your eye
out with it though.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 14:24:42 +0000, Stephen Howard wrote:

One method of determining how much solder to use is to crimp the
solder wire every centimetre or so, which acts as a visual guide to
how much solder's gone into the joint - if your joint flooded with
3cms then next time you'll know to be cautious once 2cms have gone in.

Shouldn't need much more than 1cm of solder for a single end on 15mm tube.

Remember to heat the pipe as well as the fitting, the heat will travel up
the pipe into the fitting better than it does across the small air gap
between the pipe and fitting.

Not paid any attention to the noise the flux makes, I go by how long the
blow lamp has been played across fitting/pipe then when I think it should
be hot enough start to dab the solder onto the joint between fitting and
pipe at the top. Onec it's hot enough it'll just melt and be drawn in and
as I say above only about a cm is required.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Andrew Gabriel coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S writes:

I used one of these:


http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...-deburrer.html

Seems very good.

I've tried a few things, but nothing brings up the shine like a
bit of wire wool wrapped around your finger. I seem to have a
little finger designed for 15mm fittings, and a 22mm thumb...

For deburring, I use this type of tool

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...ring-tool.html
although I've got a better Record one (don't think they exist
anymore). Need to be careful you don't slip and take your eye
out with it though.


http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...-deburrer.html
is the one I got.

It's a bit rough but it knocks most of the lip off that's left from using a
pipecutter.

Cheers

Tim

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 19:07:13 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Andrew Gabriel coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S writes:

I used one of these:


http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...-deburrer.html

Seems very good.

I've tried a few things, but nothing brings up the shine like a
bit of wire wool wrapped around your finger. I seem to have a
little finger designed for 15mm fittings, and a 22mm thumb...

For deburring, I use this type of tool

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...ring-tool.html
although I've got a better Record one (don't think they exist
anymore). Need to be careful you don't slip and take your eye
out with it though.


http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...-deburrer.html
is the one I got.

It's a bit rough but it knocks most of the lip off that's left from using a
pipecutter.

Cheers

Tim
=========================================
Old style tube cutters have a built-in reamer for de-burring as shown in
this rather stylised pictu

http://www.tpub.com/content/construc...4265_102_2.jpg

Cic.

--
==========================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
==========================================

Dave Liquorice coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 14:24:42 +0000, Stephen Howard wrote:

One method of determining how much solder to use is to crimp the
solder wire every centimetre or so, which acts as a visual guide to
how much solder's gone into the joint - if your joint flooded with
3cms then next time you'll know to be cautious once 2cms have gone in.

Shouldn't need much more than 1cm of solder for a single end on 15mm tube.

OK - so 1cm + little bit for 22mm,


Remember to heat the pipe as well as the fitting, the heat will travel up
the pipe into the fitting better than it does across the small air gap
between the pipe and fitting.

Oh - I didn't do that. Maybe that's why nothig happened for ages, then it
suddenly "went" - I suspect it was overheated by then.

I did my two joints 4cm apart and the leaded joint (done first) is showing
the classic signs of being overheated.

Not paid any attention to the noise the flux makes, I go by how long the
blow lamp has been played across fitting/pipe then when I think it should
be hot enough start to dab the solder onto the joint between fitting and
pipe at the top. Onec it's hot enough it'll just melt and be drawn in and
as I say above only about a cm is required.


Thanks Dave.

I'll have another go.

Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:

Couldn't find this in the FAQ or WIKI (sorry if I missed it).

Probably not a bad topic for an article.

Spurred on by Dave P's comments on lead free solder, I thought I should tart
up my solding skills before attempting any real work, so off to B&Q to get
a bit of pipe and some fittings.

I've done yorkshire fittings quite successfully before - I know about
cleaning the pipe+fitting and using the correct flux.

This time, I thought I'd try end feed.

Net result, both leaded and lead free joints I did looked like they are
sound (need to cut them open to really see) but they also ended up looking
like the solder-monster puked up on them! I managed to solder both sides of
a straight coupling from one side - so clearly I used way too much solder.

Generally I find end feed 100% reliable, and yorkshire 99.9% The thing
that makes the end feed easier is the lower thermal mass, sou the
fitting and pipe heats faster and there is less chance of there being a
cool spot to make it go wrong.

The solder I was using at about 3mm thick (both types) is rather heavier
than I'm used to handling for electronics which didn't help.

How do you gauge when you've fed enough solder in? Any tips on getting the

Generally you need far less than you think. If you look at how much is
in a yorkshire fitting, it would probably equate to less than a cm of
solder from the spool.

pipe to the right temperature would also be appreciated. I heated the
fitting with a blowlamp until the solder melted, and then some. I did
notice that the lead-free seemed to go from solid to practically water
instantaneously, where the leaded had more of a plastic phase.

Leaded plumbing solder is designed to be non eutectic so that you have
the ability to work it in the semi molten stage (wiped joints etc). The
lead free is almost a single metal, with very little alloyed into it.
Hence it is almost eutectic, and behaves much more like electronics
solder with a close range of temperatures between solid and fully liquid.

Personally I usually heat the fitting and pipe from approx a 6 o'Clock
position, and then test the temperature with a quick dab of the solder
wire from above (i.e. out of the flame). Once to temperature, you can
watch the first dab be sucked into the joint by capillary action. Then
add a second, and then that is enough. Any more will usually end up
running somewhere you don't need. A wipe with a thick slightly damp
cloth while still molten will leave it looking pristine.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Tim S wrote:

The key to getting that is to wire wool the pipe exterior and the
connector interior, if its anything but shiny new, wipe flux all over
the ]ipe,
and inside the fitting

I used one of these:

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...-deburrer.html

Seems very good.

I have one of those, but find it an tad awkward and scratchy! The end
brushes being very good for snagging all sorts of stuff while in your bag.

Wickes do a blue cylindrical pipe brush / debur tool that is easy you
use (one end does 15mm the other 22) and you just stuff it on the pipe
and twist a couple of times. Very good for cleaning up pipes in place,
since it will work close to a wall.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

Couldn't find this in the FAQ or WIKI (sorry if I missed it).

Spurred on by Dave P's comments on lead free solder, I thought I should
tart up my solding skills before attempting any real work, so off to B&Q
to get a bit of pipe and some fittings.

I've done yorkshire fittings quite successfully before - I know about
cleaning the pipe+fitting and using the correct flux.

This time, I thought I'd try end feed.

Net result, both leaded and lead free joints I did looked like they are
sound (need to cut them open to really see) but they also ended up looking
like the solder-monster puked up on them! I managed to solder both sides
of a straight coupling from one side - so clearly I used way too much
solder.

The solder I was using at about 3mm thick (both types) is rather heavier
than I'm used to handling for electronics which didn't help.

How do you gauge when you've fed enough solder in? Any tips on getting the
pipe to the right temperature would also be appreciated. I heated the
fitting with a blowlamp until the solder melted, and then some. I did
notice that the lead-free seemed to go from solid to practically water
instantaneously, where the leaded had more of a plastic phase.

Cheers

Tim

You're all geniuses!

Just done another two joints - leaded and unleaded. Using the 1cm of solder
as a guide, a bit more care heating the pipe as well as the fitting and
wiping off with a damp bit of kitchen roll, I have two joints which look as
good as any I've seen a plumber do

Looking in the end (I only did one end of each coupling) it seems that the
solder ring has just appeared at the end of the pipe inside the fitting and
appears all the way around. Minimal solder on the outside of the pipe prior
to the joint, and having been wiped off, it's not ugly - more of a
silvering of the pipe. No blobs at all.

I was so pleased, I polished them up with a bit of 00 wire wool.

My technique for gauging the solder was to put a slight bend in the wire 1cm
from the end and solder upto there.

Again, mega thanks - won't be using yorkshires now.

Cheers

Tim

John Rumm wrote:

Wickes do a blue cylindrical pipe brush / debur tool that is easy you
use (one end does 15mm the other 22) and you just stuff it on the pipe
and twist a couple of times. Very good for cleaning up pipes in place,
since it will work close to a wall.


I had/have one of those & they work well, but the brushes didn't last that
long. Well, TBH mine was a Silverline version of the Wickes one, so that
might be why. I bought one of these
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plumbing-Too...ol/invt/159884
which seems much quicker at cleaning & better made. Time will tell.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
Looking in the end (I only did one end of each coupling) it seems that
the solder ring has just appeared at the end of the pipe inside the
fitting and appears all the way around. Minimal solder on the outside of
the pipe prior to the joint, and having been wiped off, it's not ugly -
more of a silvering of the pipe. No blobs at all.

Most of my joints are concealed under floors etc and I don't bother
worrying about looks on those. I'm more worried about moving things if
wiping off excess solder and causing a dry joint. But of course all should
be wiped with a damp rag to remove any flux after cooling, especially if
using an aggressive type. Other tip for awkward ones is to use a torch and
mirror to look at the back to make sure the solder has flowed to there.

I'm interested that other have said lead free flows more easily - doesn't
explain what went wrong with mine. Although it wasn't all the lead free
ones I did - just two out of about 20. But I'd got used to never having
problems with end feed before.

--
*If you tell the truth, you don't have to remember anything.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 21 Oct 2008 01:07:30 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

Couldn't find this in the FAQ or WIKI (sorry if I missed it).

Spurred on by Dave P's comments on lead free solder, I thought I should
tart up my solding skills before attempting any real work, so off to B&Q
to get a bit of pipe and some fittings.

I've done yorkshire fittings quite successfully before - I know about
cleaning the pipe+fitting and using the correct flux.

This time, I thought I'd try end feed.

Net result, both leaded and lead free joints I did looked like they are
sound (need to cut them open to really see) but they also ended up looking
like the solder-monster puked up on them! I managed to solder both sides
of a straight coupling from one side - so clearly I used way too much
solder.

The solder I was using at about 3mm thick (both types) is rather heavier
than I'm used to handling for electronics which didn't help.

How do you gauge when you've fed enough solder in? Any tips on getting the
pipe to the right temperature would also be appreciated. I heated the
fitting with a blowlamp until the solder melted, and then some. I did
notice that the lead-free seemed to go from solid to practically water
instantaneously, where the leaded had more of a plastic phase.

Cheers

Tim

You're all geniuses!

Just done another two joints - leaded and unleaded. Using the 1cm of solder
as a guide, a bit more care heating the pipe as well as the fitting and
wiping off with a damp bit of kitchen roll, I have two joints which look as
good as any I've seen a plumber do

Looking in the end (I only did one end of each coupling) it seems that the
solder ring has just appeared at the end of the pipe inside the fitting and
appears all the way around. Minimal solder on the outside of the pipe prior
to the joint, and having been wiped off, it's not ugly - more of a
silvering of the pipe. No blobs at all.

I was so pleased, I polished them up with a bit of 00 wire wool.

My technique for gauging the solder was to put a slight bend in the wire 1cm
from the end and solder upto there.

Again, mega thanks - won't be using yorkshires now.

Cheers

Tim
=========================================
If you're making joints 'in situ' get a piece of fairly strong metal sheet
about 12" square to place behind the joint. This has the double advantage
of protecting surrounding woodwork and throwing some of the heat from the
torch on to the back of the joint. You can buy special cloths to do this
but a rigid piece of metal (which can be bent to fit) works best for me.

Cic.

--
==========================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
==========================================

There's loads of demos on YouTube, but a lot of them seem
a bit too American. Maybe I can't get YouTube to do UK
searches properly.

--
JGH

Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:


Looking in the end (I only did one end of each coupling) it seems that the
solder ring has just appeared at the end of the pipe inside the fitting
and appears all the way around. Minimal solder on the outside of the pipe
prior to the joint, and having been wiped off, it's not ugly - more of a
silvering of the pipe. No blobs at all.

I was so pleased, I polished them up with a bit of 00 wire wool.

And my 4 year old daughter was so impressed with the shiny pipe that she
nicked it and took it to school this morning as part of a "Bob the Builder"
thing they've got going at the moment.

Praise indeed

hehe

On Tue, 21 Oct 2008 07:57:48 -0700 (PDT), jgharston
wrote:

There's loads of demos on YouTube, but a lot of them seem
a bit too American. Maybe I can't get YouTube to do UK
searches properly.

This was the first I found ..No heat soldering
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HX6ahDqoY4
or this with a bit more heat
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVdzP53X9vw
I too failed to find any ones made in the U.K. there must be some
somewhere

coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Tue, 21 Oct 2008 07:57:48 -0700 (PDT), jgharston
wrote:

There's loads of demos on YouTube, but a lot of them seem
a bit too American. Maybe I can't get YouTube to do UK
searches properly.

This was the first I found ..No heat soldering
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HX6ahDqoY4

Interesting - epoxy the pipes together?

Claims to be WRAS approved. BTW - it is sold in the UK.

or this with a bit more heat
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVdzP53X9vw

LOL! Wish all plumbers looked like that? But why is she using a hammer and a
hacksaw to fix a tap washer? OK, she's Dribble's sister and I claim my £5


Cheers

Tim

The Medway Handyman wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
Wickes do a blue cylindrical pipe brush / debur tool that is easy you
use (one end does 15mm the other 22) and you just stuff it on the pipe
and twist a couple of times. Very good for cleaning up pipes in place,
since it will work close to a wall.


I had/have one of those & they work well, but the brushes didn't last that
long. Well, TBH mine was a Silverline version of the Wickes one, so that
might be why. I bought one of these
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plumbing-Too...ol/invt/159884
which seems much quicker at cleaning & better made. Time will tell.

I am on my second blue one in a few years, so not doing too badly so
far. Having said that, I expect if it were used weekly it would not last
that long. I will try the metal one next time I replace it.

--
Cheers,

John.

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