On Tue, 21 Oct 2008 01:07:30 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

Couldn't find this in the FAQ or WIKI (sorry if I missed it).

Spurred on by Dave P's comments on lead free solder, I thought I should
tart up my solding skills before attempting any real work, so off to B&Q
to get a bit of pipe and some fittings.

I've done yorkshire fittings quite successfully before - I know about
cleaning the pipe+fitting and using the correct flux.

This time, I thought I'd try end feed.

Net result, both leaded and lead free joints I did looked like they are
sound (need to cut them open to really see) but they also ended up looking
like the solder-monster puked up on them! I managed to solder both sides
of a straight coupling from one side - so clearly I used way too much
solder.

The solder I was using at about 3mm thick (both types) is rather heavier
than I'm used to handling for electronics which didn't help.

How do you gauge when you've fed enough solder in? Any tips on getting the
pipe to the right temperature would also be appreciated. I heated the
fitting with a blowlamp until the solder melted, and then some. I did
notice that the lead-free seemed to go from solid to practically water
instantaneously, where the leaded had more of a plastic phase.

Cheers

Tim

You're all geniuses!

Just done another two joints - leaded and unleaded. Using the 1cm of solder
as a guide, a bit more care heating the pipe as well as the fitting and
wiping off with a damp bit of kitchen roll, I have two joints which look as
good as any I've seen a plumber do

Looking in the end (I only did one end of each coupling) it seems that the
solder ring has just appeared at the end of the pipe inside the fitting and
appears all the way around. Minimal solder on the outside of the pipe prior
to the joint, and having been wiped off, it's not ugly - more of a
silvering of the pipe. No blobs at all.

I was so pleased, I polished them up with a bit of 00 wire wool.

My technique for gauging the solder was to put a slight bend in the wire 1cm
from the end and solder upto there.

Again, mega thanks - won't be using yorkshires now.

Cheers

Tim
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If you're making joints 'in situ' get a piece of fairly strong metal sheet
about 12" square to place behind the joint. This has the double advantage
of protecting surrounding woodwork and throwing some of the heat from the
torch on to the back of the joint. You can buy special cloths to do this
but a rigid piece of metal (which can be bent to fit) works best for me.

Cic.

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Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
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