I suspect this has been well covered before but...

I have a cheap Direct Power (Screwfix supplied) drill. Unsurprisingly
the Ni-cads are failing after 12 months or so use.

I looked at various battery supply sites and failed to find a match.

A complete new drill plus 2 batteries from Screwfix is around 35ukp
which is roughly the cost of a single *quality* battery elsewhere.

With global warming etc. in mind, I am reluctant to throw away a working
tool!

The Direct Power batteries are easily disassembled so re-celling is an
option. So.... assuming I have the cheapest possible cells... what are
my options?

Will better replacement cells work OK with the supplied charger? Can I
change to Ni-mh or whatever? Who does one go to for advice and supplies?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
I suspect this has been well covered before but...

I have a cheap Direct Power (Screwfix supplied) drill. Unsurprisingly
the Ni-cads are failing after 12 months or so use.

I looked at various battery supply sites and failed to find a match.

A complete new drill plus 2 batteries from Screwfix is around 35ukp
which is roughly the cost of a single *quality* battery elsewhere.

With global warming etc. in mind, I am reluctant to throw away a working
tool!

The Direct Power batteries are easily disassembled so re-celling is an
option. So.... assuming I have the cheapest possible cells... what are
my options?

Will better replacement cells work OK with the supplied charger? Can I
change to Ni-mh or whatever? Who does one go to for advice and supplies?

regards

www.overlander.co.uk may be a start for pure cells.

about 85% of the cost of thee tools is in the batteries anyway.


Te motors are a couple of dollars and the gearbox isn't much more..

In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
I suspect this has been well covered before but...

I have a cheap Direct Power (Screwfix supplied) drill. Unsurprisingly
the Ni-cads are failing after 12 months or so use.

I looked at various battery supply sites and failed to find a match.

A complete new drill plus 2 batteries from Screwfix is around 35ukp
which is roughly the cost of a single *quality* battery elsewhere.

With global warming etc. in mind, I am reluctant to throw away a working
tool!

The Direct Power batteries are easily disassembled so re-celling is an
option. So.... assuming I have the cheapest possible cells... what are
my options?

Two things - cheap cells will fail quickly too. And it's possible the
charger is the cause - or contributing to - the short life. Overcharging
just once will shorten cell life.

Will better replacement cells work OK with the supplied charger? Can I
change to Ni-mh or whatever? Who does one go to for advice and supplies?

I had the same dilemma with my B&Q 18 volt cheapie. New decent cells
(Sanyo) made the actual drill perform *far* better - the lower internal
impedance gave better low speed control and torque. I also modified the
charger to a 1/10th constant current type - and use a timer to prevent
overcharging. The charger on mine consisted of a simple DC power supply
with a series resistor - ie no electronic control. A look inside the base
should show if yours is this poor.

You might look for special offers of a decent brand same voltage battery
on Ebay etc - and rob that of its cells. They are usually the same size.
I paid near the same price (trade) for the Sanyo cells as the drill cost
new. But they're still fine some 4 years later.

--
*Never miss a good chance to shut up.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Tim Lamb wrote:

With global warming etc. in mind, I am reluctant to throw away a working
tool!


What's global warming got to do with it?

What voltage is the pack?

I'm tempted to scrap the batterry and run mine of one of those emergency
jump start thingies but then they're less than 12V.

AJH

In article ,
andrew wrote:
I'm tempted to scrap the batterry and run mine of one of those emergency
jump start thingies but then they're less than 12V.

Eh? They are a standard SLA 12v battery so as much 12 volts as anything
else that says it has a 12 volt battery.

But a cordless drill powered from an external pack isn't cordless any
more...

--
*When companies ship Styrofoam, what do they pack it in? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I'm tempted to scrap the batterry and run mine of one of those emergency
jump start thingies but then they're less than 12V.

Eh? They are a standard SLA 12v battery so as much 12 volts as anything
else that says it has a 12 volt battery.

Yes but the two cordless tools that I use which have duff batteries are both
less than 12V, my 18V one still has a good battery.

But a cordless drill powered from an external pack isn't cordless any
more...

I know but it's a cheaper option than buying new cells. Actually for the
sort of work I do I often find it easier to tote a small 2t generator
around for the angle grinder or sds drill. Typically my small cordless
angle grinder would just cut one hydraulic hose on a charge.

AJH

On May 18, 10:20*am, Tim Lamb wrote:
The Direct Power batteries are easily disassembled so re-celling is an
option. So.... assuming I have the cheapest possible cells... what are
my options?

How many cells have gone? (measure cell voltage under load)

cheers,
Pete.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
andrew wrote:
I'm tempted to scrap the batterry and run mine of one of those emergency
jump start thingies but then they're less than 12V.

Eh? They are a standard SLA 12v battery so as much 12 volts as anything
else that says it has a 12 volt battery.

But a cordless drill powered from an external pack isn't cordless any
more...


True, but it shares possibly the most important feature of a true
"cordless" tool, in that you aren't dependent on having a mains socket
local to the work you are doing.

In message , andrew
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

With global warming etc. in mind, I am reluctant to throw away a working
tool!


What's global warming got to do with it?

Somebody somewhere has to get out of bed and make a replacement drill.
This has to be shipped, probably halfway round the world, giving
employment and hope of a pension to who knows how many others. The
bottom line net effect of this is to encourage procreation which is the
last possible thing I would wish the world to indulge:-)

What voltage is the pack?

24V

I'm tempted to scrap the batterry and run mine of one of those emergency
jump start thingies but then they're less than 12V.

I'm not criticising the value/use I have already had, just looking to
extend life without much pain.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

In message
, Pete
C writes
On May 18, 10:20*am, Tim Lamb wrote:
The Direct Power batteries are easily disassembled so re-celling is an
option. So.... assuming I have the cheapest possible cells... what are
my options?

How many cells have gone? (measure cell voltage under load)

er... OK. Thinking how to load the batteries and have access to the
connections. I'll get back.

My suspicion is that I have internal leak issues rather than failed
cells. A few cycles of use and they perform better. Unfortunately they
are not used daily so what is expected to be a fully charged battery
only gives a short period of output.

I also have to check for *sophistication* in the charger circuit:-)

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
, Pete
C writes
On May 18, 10:20 am, Tim Lamb wrote:
The Direct Power batteries are easily disassembled so re-celling is an
option. So.... assuming I have the cheapest possible cells... what are
my options?

How many cells have gone? (measure cell voltage under load)

er... OK. Thinking how to load the batteries and have access to the
connections. I'll get back.

My suspicion is that I have internal leak issues rather than failed
cells. A few cycles of use and they perform better. Unfortunately they
are not used daily so what is expected to be a fully charged battery
only gives a short period of output.

I also have to check for *sophistication* in the charger circuit:-)

regards

Mixing old and new cells will be false economy.
I use Euro batteries for replacement cells. Excellent service. If you
order from a email address you've not registered with them before you
get 20% off your 'first' order
Also worth looking with google for discount codes sometimes these are
greater than 20%

Bob

In article ,
Bruce wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
andrew wrote:
I'm tempted to scrap the batterry and run mine of one of those
emergency jump start thingies but then they're less than 12V.

Eh? They are a standard SLA 12v battery so as much 12 volts as anything
else that says it has a 12 volt battery.

But a cordless drill powered from an external pack isn't cordless any
more...


True, but it shares possibly the most important feature of a true
"cordless" tool, in that you aren't dependent on having a mains socket
local to the work you are doing.

How often does this occur for DIY? And if it were a regular occurrence for
me I'd get a generator. I use cordless only for the convenience of, err,
not having a cord. ;-)

--
*Don't use no double negatives *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
Bruce wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
andrew wrote:
I'm tempted to scrap the batterry and run mine of one of those
emergency jump start thingies but then they're less than 12V.

Eh? They are a standard SLA 12v battery so as much 12 volts as anything
else that says it has a 12 volt battery.

But a cordless drill powered from an external pack isn't cordless any
more...


True, but it shares possibly the most important feature of a true
"cordless" tool, in that you aren't dependent on having a mains socket
local to the work you are doing.

How often does this occur for DIY? And if it were a regular occurrence for
me I'd get a generator. I use cordless only for the convenience of, err,
not having a cord. ;-)


I see your point, but I was thinking of the last time I used a
cordless drill, which was to fix some brackets in my caravan. I
didn't need a "lack of cord" merely something that worked without
needing a mains connection.

In message , Tim Lamb
writes
In message
,
Pete C writes
On May 18, 10:20*am, Tim Lamb wrote:
The Direct Power batteries are easily disassembled so re-celling is an
option. So.... assuming I have the cheapest possible cells... what are
my options?

How many cells have gone? (measure cell voltage under load)

er... OK. Thinking how to load the batteries and have access to the
connections. I'll get back.

Battery was flat and accessing terminals plugged into the drill not
easy. What I have done is to look at the individual cell voltage on
charge. Lowest 1.37V (4 cells), highest 1.52V (1 cell) mostly around
1.4V

The cells are by Huanyu type GNY 1.2V and 1300mAh

My suspicion is that I have internal leak issues rather than failed
cells. A few cycles of use and they perform better. Unfortunately they
are not used daily so what is expected to be a fully charged battery
only gives a short period of output.

I also have to check for *sophistication* in the charger circuit:-)

The charger, a pox on 3 legged security screws, is *sophisticated*. They
were just changing from Germanium to Silicon transistors when I knew
anything about electronics but there were 4 hefty diodes arranged as a
bridge, a mystery encapsulated box possibly a relay, an i/c and various
other bits and bobs.

Type FCS03-240, Ni-cd JOCC2-240

regards

--
Tim Lamb

In message , Bob Minchin
writes

Mixing old and new cells will be false economy.
I use Euro batteries for replacement cells. Excellent service. If you
order from a email address you've not registered with them before you
get 20% off your 'first' order
Also worth looking with google for discount codes sometimes these are
greater than 20%

OK Bob, makes sense.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
Will better replacement cells work OK with the supplied charger? Can I
change to Ni-mh or whatever? Who does one go to for advice and supplies?

I had the same dilemma with my B&Q 18 volt cheapie. New decent cells
(Sanyo) made the actual drill perform *far* better - the lower internal
impedance gave better low speed control and torque. I also modified the
charger to a 1/10th constant current type - and use a timer to prevent
overcharging. The charger on mine consisted of a simple DC power supply
with a series resistor - ie no electronic control. A look inside the base
should show if yours is this poor.

It seems to have knobs and bells beyond my ken:-)

I have an idea the charge current is connected by an encapsulated relay
as there is an audible click as the LEDs change over. Unfortunately the
legend on the i/c was hard to read without a lens but I can look more
carefully if it helps.

You might look for special offers of a decent brand same voltage battery
on Ebay etc - and rob that of its cells. They are usually the same size.
I paid near the same price (trade) for the Sanyo cells as the drill cost
new. But they're still fine some 4 years later.

Not that many 24V batteries about...

regards


--
Tim Lamb

On May 18, 5:38*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
How many cells have gone? (measure cell voltage under load)

er... OK. Thinking how to load the batteries and have access to the
connections. I'll get back.

Battery was flat and accessing terminals plugged into the drill not
easy. What I have done is to look at the individual cell voltage on
charge. Lowest 1.37V (4 cells), highest 1.52V (1 cell) mostly around
1.4V

The cells are by Huanyu type GNY 1.2V and 1300mAh

Right, what I meant was the cell voltage while the drill is being run
rather than charged. The duff cells should soon drop to zero while the
others stay around 1.2.

If only a one or two cells are gone I'd just cut them out (dremel
across the 'strap' where spot welded to duff battery) and solder thick
wire in there to bypass them

Might be worth using the charger on a timer from then on too

In the meantime an unwanted cordless drill/vacuum might turn up on
Freecycle or Ebay locally and some sub C's could be had from that.

If you want a project how about getting a LiPo RC charger and re-cell
with '20C' or '25C' LiPo packs

cheers,
Pete.

In message
,
Pete C writes
On May 18, 5:38*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
How many cells have gone? (measure cell voltage under load)

er... OK. Thinking how to load the batteries and have access to the
connections. I'll get back.

Battery was flat and accessing terminals plugged into the drill not
easy. What I have done is to look at the individual cell voltage on
charge. Lowest 1.37V (4 cells), highest 1.52V (1 cell) mostly around
1.4V

The cells are by Huanyu type GNY 1.2V and 1300mAh

Right, what I meant was the cell voltage while the drill is being run
rather than charged. The duff cells should soon drop to zero while the
others stay around 1.2.

I know what you meant:-) Next time I have three hands, I'll try.

If only a one or two cells are gone I'd just cut them out (dremel
across the 'strap' where spot welded to duff battery) and solder thick
wire in there to bypass them

Yes. Having noted the prices for *C* cells I'm not so happy about
replacing a full set of 20.

Might be worth using the charger on a timer from then on too

Ummm... is there any easy way of finding out how the existing charger
operates?

In the meantime an unwanted cordless drill/vacuum might turn up on
Freecycle or Ebay locally and some sub C's could be had from that.

If you want a project how about getting a LiPo RC charger and re-cell
with '20C' or '25C' LiPo packs

This is rather deep water for my wellingtons:-)

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote in message
...
I suspect this has been well covered before but...

I have a cheap Direct Power (Screwfix supplied) drill. Unsurprisingly
the Ni-cads are failing after 12 months or so use.

I looked at various battery supply sites and failed to find a match.

A complete new drill plus 2 batteries from Screwfix is around 35ukp
which is roughly the cost of a single *quality* battery elsewhere.

With global warming etc. in mind, I am reluctant to throw away a working
tool!

The Direct Power batteries are easily disassembled so re-celling is an
option. So.... assuming I have the cheapest possible cells... what are
my options?

Its hard for this to be cost effective unless it's a quality drill.
However I recently bought from a B&Q clearance table two 9.6v Bosch drill
battery's for £3.99 each.
They were the standard sub-c cell quite easy to make one quite good 12v
battery pack.


-

Bruce wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
Bruce wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
andrew wrote:
I'm tempted to scrap the batterry and run mine of one of those
emergency jump start thingies but then they're less than 12V.
Eh? They are a standard SLA 12v battery so as much 12 volts as anything
else that says it has a 12 volt battery.

But a cordless drill powered from an external pack isn't cordless any
more...

True, but it shares possibly the most important feature of a true
"cordless" tool, in that you aren't dependent on having a mains socket
local to the work you are doing.
How often does this occur for DIY? And if it were a regular occurrence for
me I'd get a generator. I use cordless only for the convenience of, err,
not having a cord. ;-)


I see your point, but I was thinking of the last time I used a
cordless drill, which was to fix some brackets in my caravan. I
didn't need a "lack of cord" merely something that worked without
needing a mains connection.

a 12V SLA will never give the performance and deep discharge capability
of a NiCd or NiMh pack though.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I see your point, but I was thinking of the last time I used a
cordless drill, which was to fix some brackets in my caravan. I
didn't need a "lack of cord" merely something that worked without
needing a mains connection.

a 12V SLA will never give the performance and deep discharge capability
of a NiCd or NiMh pack though.

They're capable of several hundred amps to start a car - so I'd say the
performance will be ok. But of course you shouldn't deep discharge them.

--
*Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I see your point, but I was thinking of the last time I used a
cordless drill, which was to fix some brackets in my caravan. I
didn't need a "lack of cord" merely something that worked without
needing a mains connection.

a 12V SLA will never give the performance and deep discharge capability
of a NiCd or NiMh pack though.

They're capable of several hundred amps to start a car - so I'd say the
performance will be ok. But of course you shouldn't deep discharge them.



Starting a car doesn't deep discharge them?

I should have thought that deep discharging was what they were
designed for.

On 19/05/2008 05:55, Bruce wrote:

Starting a car doesn't deep discharge them?

I should have thought that deep discharging was what they were
designed for.

Continually cranking an engine over, and over, and over, when it refuses
to start, until the battery is flat, *THAT* is deep discharge.

Deep discharge batteries (aka leisure batteries) are designed for e.g.
mobility scooters, golf karts, UPSs, caravans, and expect to be more or
less flattened each time they are used, before re-charging.

In article ,
Bruce wrote:
They're capable of several hundred amps to start a car - so I'd say the
performance will be ok. But of course you shouldn't deep discharge them.



Starting a car doesn't deep discharge them?

If it did, it wouldn't start.

I should have thought that deep discharging was what they were
designed for.

Better than car batteries, possibly, but no lead acid likes to be fully
discharged. Indeed few batteries do.

--
*Okay, who stopped the payment on my reality check? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Tim,

I would either buy a replacement pack with similar contacts/geometry and
modify it slightly, or rebuild the pack using new cells.
mixing old and new cells is a bad idea.

as people noted, the charger makes the difference. simple timer-based
chargers are not the best. proper chargers monitor the change of current
flowing through the cell to detect the point of optimum and usually have
two modes for charging, fast and slow. for NiCd and NiMH the slow mode
saves the battery life a little bit. I used MAX charge controllers
before and they are relatively easy to plug into an existing charger.

depending on what type of charger you got, you can replace the cells
with any cells of the same geometry. if the charger is smart and
IC-based and the IC can charge NiMH, you can even change from NiCd to
NiMH. again, in this case you can put a higher capacity cells there.
if the charger is dumb, however and simply works on a timeout, you
either have to adjust the RC circuit to increase the time, or stick with
the same capacity.

hope this helps.

/ijon

In message , ijon tichy
writes
Tim,

I would either buy a replacement pack with similar contacts/geometry
and modify it slightly, or rebuild the pack using new cells.
mixing old and new cells is a bad idea.

Yes. Price is a major issue though! The 24V Direct Power battery pack
does not match any commercially available replacement (AFAICT)

as people noted, the charger makes the difference. simple timer-based
chargers are not the best. proper chargers monitor the change of
current flowing through the cell to detect the point of optimum and
usually have two modes for charging, fast and slow. for NiCd and NiMH
the slow mode saves the battery life a little bit. I used MAX charge
controllers before and they are relatively easy to plug into an
existing charger.

This is a *smart* charger but I don't think it would do anything other
than Ni-cd.

depending on what type of charger you got, you can replace the cells
with any cells of the same geometry. if the charger is smart and
IC-based and the IC can charge NiMH, you can even change from NiCd to
NiMH. again, in this case you can put a higher capacity cells there.
if the charger is dumb, however and simply works on a timeout, you
either have to adjust the RC circuit to increase the time, or stick
with the same capacity.

hope this helps.

The basic message seems to be that re-celling can be done but at a cost
more than a complete discounted drill kit. Oh well! Back to global
warming:-)

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On May 19, 10:31*am, Tim Lamb The basic message seems to be that re-
celling can be done but at a cost
more than a complete discounted drill kit. Oh well! Back to global
warming:-)

Hi,

How many cells are gone?

cheers,
Pete.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
Bruce wrote:
They're capable of several hundred amps to start a car - so I'd say the
performance will be ok. But of course you shouldn't deep discharge them.



Starting a car doesn't deep discharge them?

If it did, it wouldn't start.

I should have thought that deep discharging was what they were
designed for.

Better than car batteries, possibly, but no lead acid likes to be fully
discharged. Indeed few batteries do.


Thanks Dave.

On May 18, 11:22 am, andrew wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
With global warming etc. in mind, I am reluctant to throw away a working
tool!

What's global warming got to do with it?

What's global warming?

MBQ

Tim Lamb wrote:

This is a *smart* charger but I don't think it would do anything other
than Ni-cd.

proper charger controller ICs can usually do both NiCd and NiMH.

The basic message seems to be that re-celling can be done but at a cost
more than a complete discounted drill kit. Oh well! Back to global
warming:-)

I don't know how expensive the set of decent cells is. you can still
make a better pack yourself.

/ijon

In message
, Pete
C writes
On May 19, 10:31*am, Tim Lamb The basic message seems to be that re-
celling can be done but at a cost
more than a complete discounted drill kit. Oh well! Back to global
warming:-)

Hi,

How many cells are gone?

None AFAICT. The packs seem to *self discharge* over a few days without
use.

A few charge/use cycles and they recover but having to anticipate using
a drill by the battery charge time is tedious.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
, Pete
C writes
On May 19, 10:31�am, Tim Lamb The basic message seems to be that re-
celling can be done but at a cost

more than a complete discounted drill kit. Oh well! Back to global
warming:-)

Hi,

How many cells are gone?

None AFAICT. The packs seem to *self discharge* over a few days without
use.

A few charge/use cycles and they recover but having to anticipate using
a drill by the battery charge time is tedious.

regards


Its self discharge that makes them 'gone.' Charge the pack, leave
it for a week and measure the v across each cell. You'll find one or
possibly more that are very low.

Since your priority is cheap, there are 2 options that work:
1. Remove any bad cell(s), wire across where they were and
continue at 22/23v.
2. Re-cell it using poundland AA 25p each cells. Yes, I know... but
its very cheap, and will work at reduced power and capacity for sod
all money, £5, if its ugly but cheap you want.


NT

On May 19, 9:08*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
How many cells are gone?

None AFAICT. The packs seem to *self discharge* over a few days without
use.

A few charge/use cycles and they recover but having to anticipate using
a drill by the battery charge time is tedious.

Just charge the pack as much as can be, leave it a few days, then run
the drill til it fades and check out what's happening with the cells,
while the drill is running.

It sounds like you only have one pack for the drill. How flat do you
run the pack before recharging?

cheers,
Pete.

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
, Pete
C writes
On May 19, 10:31 am, Tim Lamb The basic message seems to be that re-
celling can be done but at a cost
more than a complete discounted drill kit. Oh well! Back to global
warming:-)

Hi,

How many cells are gone?

None AFAICT. The packs seem to *self discharge* over a few days without
use.

Classic dying nickel problem.


A few charge/use cycles and they recover but having to anticipate using
a drill by the battery charge time is tedious.


Yup.

Go A123 or lithium. Nickels were always crap at self discsharge. Leving
them flat is the killer usually.

Lithiums and 123s destroy themselves instantly if allowed to go flat, so
they have protection to make sure they never do!



regards

In message
,
Pete C writes
On May 19, 9:08*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
How many cells are gone?

None AFAICT. The packs seem to *self discharge* over a few days without
use.

A few charge/use cycles and they recover but having to anticipate using
a drill by the battery charge time is tedious.

Just charge the pack as much as can be, leave it a few days, then run
the drill til it fades and check out what's happening with the cells,
while the drill is running.

Umm.. There are two inaccessible cells in the *plug* part of the pack
otherwise OK. Running the drill without load is not going to draw much
current.

It sounds like you only have one pack for the drill. How flat do you
run the pack before recharging?

No. There are two supplied. Pretty flat. Usually until no more useful
work is achieved.

Having discovered the cost of better quality cells, I intend to buy
another drill. I will then be *failure proofed* to the extent of 4
batteries:-)

regards and thanks to all who contributed.

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:

The basic message seems to be that re-celling can be done but at a cost
more than a complete discounted drill kit. Oh well! Back to global
warming:-)

Worth bearing in mind that recelling with decent cells may make a
dramatic improvement to the drills performance, which you won't get with
a new one.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
,
Pete C writes
On May 19, 9:08�pm, Tim Lamb wrote:

It sounds like you only have one pack for the drill. How flat do you
run the pack before recharging?

No. There are two supplied. Pretty flat. Usually until no more useful
work is achieved.

Thats probably why they died. Capacity and self discharge varies
from cell to cell, and by the time youre getting no more useful work,
some cells are getting reversed at high current, and they really
dont like it. Best to stop running thme as soon as they start to
fade. rather than when theyre finished fading.


NT

In message
,
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message
,
Pete C writes
On May 19, 9:080
It sounds like you only have one pack for the drill. How flat do you
run the pack before recharging?

No. There are two supplied. Pretty flat. Usually until no more useful
work is achieved.

Thats probably why they died. Capacity and self discharge varies
from cell to cell, and by the time youre getting no more useful work,
some cells are getting reversed at high current, and they really
dont like it. Best to stop running thme as soon as they start to
fade. rather than when theyre finished fading.

I'll remember that for the next set:-) Currently in despatch at
Screwfix!

I have purchased a replacement battery for my 9.6V Bosch so I can hack
in to the cells on the old one and find out what happened there.
Just hope it isn't a charger issue!

regards


NT

--
Tim Lamb

In message , John Rumm
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

The basic message seems to be that re-celling can be done but at a
cost more than a complete discounted drill kit. Oh well! Back to
global warming:-)

Worth bearing in mind that recelling with decent cells may make a
dramatic improvement to the drills performance, which you won't get
with a new one.

Yes. Extended drilling jobs seem the worst for battery drain. Most of my
recent work has been installing roof sheets using self drilling Tek
screws where battery operation has been adequate and much more
convenient than mains.

regards


--
Tim Lamb