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Default Draft excluding

Hi,

probably a silly question...I tried to draft exclude the back door (wooden)
with foam strip and no matter where I stuck it I could not get the door to
close without me putting my shoulder against it.

the normal foam strip seems to be far too thick - can anyone recommend a
supplier of thinner foam strip or an alternative solution?


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Default Draft excluding

On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 22:00:42 +0000, echo21 wrote:

Hi,

probably a silly question...I tried to draft exclude the back door (wooden)
with foam strip and no matter where I stuck it I could not get the door to
close without me putting my shoulder against it.

the normal foam strip seems to be far too thick - can anyone recommend a
supplier of thinner foam strip or an alternative solution?


===================================
You can get plastic + soft rubber weather strips to nail on the outside of
the door jambs. You close the door, push a strip firmly up against the
door and nail in place on the jamb. Repeat all around. Focus sell them and
probably others but I can't find a reference.

Cic.
--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

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Default Draft excluding

echo21 wrote:
Hi,

probably a silly question...I tried to draft exclude the back door
(wooden) with foam strip and no matter where I stuck it I could not
get the door to close without me putting my shoulder against it.

the normal foam strip seems to be far too thick - can anyone
recommend a supplier of thinner foam strip or an alternative solution?


echo21,

If you are placing the foam strip in the frame rebates so that the door
closes against this, then you will do your shoulder a severe injury - it's
the wrong stuff for the job :-)

Have a look at the link below and that is what you need. You simply close
the door and then after cutting to size, lightly push the seal against the
door (starting at the top and working down) and screw the strip into
position. Screw, rather than nail it, because the holes are usually
elongated to give some adjustment during and after fitting if needed.

http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-i...ound-17Ft.html

This stuff is usually available from any of the 'sheds' or local builders
merchants.

Remeber, the secret of this stuff is that it has to flex - so just push
lightly against the door so as not to deform the seal but enough to stop the
draught.

Hope it helps BRG.


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On 12 Mar, 22:00, "echo21" wrote:
Hi,

probably a silly question...I tried to draft exclude the back door (wooden)
with foam strip and no matter where I stuck it I could not get the door to
close without me putting my shoulder against it.

the normal foam strip seems to be far too thick - can anyone recommend a
supplier of thinner foam strip or an alternative solution?


The traditional alternative to the other suggestions is to use a
sprung strip of copper, which reminds me that I want to get some. I've
just had a google to no avail, does anyone know where to get it online
(or offline at any of the sheds, although I don't remember ever seeing
it there)?

Cheers!

Martin
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On 12 Mar, 22:16, Cicero wrote:
On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 22:00:42 +0000, echo21 wrote:
Hi,


probably a silly question...I tried to draft exclude the back door (wooden)
with foam strip and no matter where I stuck it I could not get the door to
close without me putting my shoulder against it.


snip

===================================
You can get plastic + soft rubber weather strips to nail on the outside of
the door jambs. You close the door, push a strip firmly up against the
door and nail in place on the jamb. Repeat all around. Focus sell them and
probably others but I can't find a reference.


We used some of this rubber strip on the front door of our last house
with very good results. It provides a damned good seal, so much so
that you had to close the door with force to get it to close properly.


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Jon wrote:
On 12 Mar, 22:16, Cicero wrote:
On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 22:00:42 +0000, echo21 wrote:
Hi,
probably a silly question...I tried to draft exclude the back door (wooden)
with foam strip and no matter where I stuck it I could not get the door to
close without me putting my shoulder against it.


snip

===================================
You can get plastic + soft rubber weather strips to nail on the outside of
the door jambs. You close the door, push a strip firmly up against the
door and nail in place on the jamb. Repeat all around. Focus sell them and
probably others but I can't find a reference.


We used some of this rubber strip on the front door of our last house
with very good results. It provides a damned good seal, so much so
that you had to close the door with force to get it to close properly.


There's the rub
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Default Draft excluding

On 13 Mar, 09:11, Martin Pentreath
wrote:
On 12 Mar, 22:00, "echo21" wrote:

Hi,


probably a silly question...I tried to draft exclude the back door (wooden)
with foam strip and no matter where I stuck it I could not get the door to
close without me putting my shoulder against it.


the normal foam strip seems to be far too thick - can anyone recommend a
supplier of thinner foam strip or an alternative solution?


The traditional alternative to the other suggestions is to use a
sprung strip of copper, which reminds me that I want to get some. I've
just had a google to no avail, does anyone know where to get it online
(or offline at any of the sheds, although I don't remember ever seeing
it there)?

Cheers!

Martin


It used to be called "Atomic Strip"
My whole house is done with it and it wails in a high wind
I am going to replace it all with Reddiseals stuff this summer...
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On 12 Mar, 22:00, "echo21" wrote:
Hi,

probably a silly question...I tried to draft exclude the back door (wooden)
with foam strip and no matter where I stuck it I could not get the door to
close without me putting my shoulder against it.

the normal foam strip seems to be far too thick - can anyone recommend a
supplier of thinner foam strip or an alternative solution?


Reddiseals
Chris
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"BRG" wrote in message
...
snip

Have a look at the link below and that is what you need. You simply close
the door and then after cutting to size, lightly push the seal against the
door (starting at the top and working down) and screw the strip into
position. Screw, rather than nail it, because the holes are usually
elongated to give some adjustment during and after fitting if needed.

http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-i...ound-17Ft.html

This stuff is usually available from any of the 'sheds' or local builders
merchants.

Remeber, the secret of this stuff is that it has to flex - so just push
lightly against the door so as not to deform the seal but enough to stop
the draught.

Hope it helps BRG.


Thanks for that - and thanks to everyone else for replying.

Excuse my ignorance, am I assuming correctly that this would go on the
outside of the door like Cicero mentioned? If so, that sounds like the best
plan and even I might not mess it up!

--
echo21


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On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 22:02:04 +0000, echo21 wrote:


"BRG" wrote in message
...
snip

Have a look at the link below and that is what you need. You simply close
the door and then after cutting to size, lightly push the seal against the
door (starting at the top and working down) and screw the strip into
position. Screw, rather than nail it, because the holes are usually
elongated to give some adjustment during and after fitting if needed.

http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-i...ound-17Ft.html

This stuff is usually available from any of the 'sheds' or local builders
merchants.

Remeber, the secret of this stuff is that it has to flex - so just push
lightly against the door so as not to deform the seal but enough to stop
the draught.

Hope it helps BRG.


Thanks for that - and thanks to everyone else for replying.

Excuse my ignorance, am I assuming correctly that this would go on the
outside of the door like Cicero mentioned? If so, that sounds like the best
plan and even I might not mess it up!


==================================
Yes, this does go outside but on the door jambs (door frame) - NOT on the
door itself. Place a strip on the jamb and push it in firmly enough make a
good seal (but not too firmly that it stops the door closing). Start at
the top and keep checking as you go that it is making contact with the
door all the way down. You'll get instructions with the strip anyway.

Cic.
--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================



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Cicero wrote:
On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 22:02:04 +0000, echo21 wrote:

"BRG" wrote in message
...
snip
Have a look at the link below and that is what you need. You simply close
the door and then after cutting to size, lightly push the seal against the
door (starting at the top and working down) and screw the strip into
position. Screw, rather than nail it, because the holes are usually
elongated to give some adjustment during and after fitting if needed.

http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-i...ound-17Ft.html

This stuff is usually available from any of the 'sheds' or local builders
merchants.

Remeber, the secret of this stuff is that it has to flex - so just push
lightly against the door so as not to deform the seal but enough to stop
the draught.

Hope it helps BRG.

Thanks for that - and thanks to everyone else for replying.

Excuse my ignorance, am I assuming correctly that this would go on the
outside of the door like Cicero mentioned? If so, that sounds like the best
plan and even I might not mess it up!


==================================
Yes, this does go outside but on the door jambs (door frame) - NOT on the
door itself. Place a strip on the jamb and push it in firmly enough make a
good seal (but not too firmly that it stops the door closing). Start at
the top and keep checking as you go that it is making contact with the
door all the way down. You'll get instructions with the strip anyway.

Cic.


Often easier to just replace or re-position the door stop. The problem
is getting wooden doors to stay in the same position when the weather
changes, and this affects most draught excluders too.
The best excluder I've seen was a 5mm silcone tube that really did
bounce back, even after being compressed for a couple of weeks. IME
other materials don't, at least not for very long.
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Stuart Noble wrote:
Cicero wrote:
On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 22:02:04 +0000, echo21 wrote:

"BRG" wrote in message
...
snip
Have a look at the link below and that is what you need. You
simply close the door and then after cutting to size, lightly push
the seal against the door (starting at the top and working down)
and screw the strip into position. Screw, rather than nail it,
because the holes are usually elongated to give some adjustment
during and after fitting if needed.
http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-i...ound-17Ft.html

This stuff is usually available from any of the 'sheds' or local
builders merchants.

Remeber, the secret of this stuff is that it has to flex - so just
push lightly against the door so as not to deform the seal but
enough to stop the draught.

Hope it helps BRG.

Thanks for that - and thanks to everyone else for replying.

Excuse my ignorance, am I assuming correctly that this would go on
the outside of the door like Cicero mentioned? If so, that sounds
like the best plan and even I might not mess it up!


==================================
Yes, this does go outside but on the door jambs (door frame) - NOT
on the door itself. Place a strip on the jamb and push it in firmly
enough make a good seal (but not too firmly that it stops the door
closing). Start at the top and keep checking as you go that it is
making contact with the door all the way down. You'll get
instructions with the strip anyway. Cic.


Often easier to just replace or re-position the door stop. The problem
is getting wooden doors to stay in the same position when the weather
changes, and this affects most draught excluders too.
The best excluder I've seen was a 5mm silcone tube that really did
bounce back, even after being compressed for a couple of weeks. IME
other materials don't, at least not for very long.


Problem there Stuart that being a 'back door' there would be no planted
stops but a rebated frame.

But, there is the old trick (invented before the patent draughtstrips) and
that is to cut a narrow doorstop and nail it onto the top of the existing
rebated to follow the shape of the door - and then take it off and refit
every time the seasons change. :-)

True there about the 'bounce' on the seal - or lack of it, it's a right
pain!

BRG


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