Thread: Draft excluding
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Stuart Noble Stuart Noble is offline
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Default Draft excluding

Cicero wrote:
On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 22:02:04 +0000, echo21 wrote:

"BRG" wrote in message
...
snip
Have a look at the link below and that is what you need. You simply close
the door and then after cutting to size, lightly push the seal against the
door (starting at the top and working down) and screw the strip into
position. Screw, rather than nail it, because the holes are usually
elongated to give some adjustment during and after fitting if needed.

http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-i...ound-17Ft.html

This stuff is usually available from any of the 'sheds' or local builders
merchants.

Remeber, the secret of this stuff is that it has to flex - so just push
lightly against the door so as not to deform the seal but enough to stop
the draught.

Hope it helps BRG.

Thanks for that - and thanks to everyone else for replying.

Excuse my ignorance, am I assuming correctly that this would go on the
outside of the door like Cicero mentioned? If so, that sounds like the best
plan and even I might not mess it up!


==================================
Yes, this does go outside but on the door jambs (door frame) - NOT on the
door itself. Place a strip on the jamb and push it in firmly enough make a
good seal (but not too firmly that it stops the door closing). Start at
the top and keep checking as you go that it is making contact with the
door all the way down. You'll get instructions with the strip anyway.

Cic.


Often easier to just replace or re-position the door stop. The problem
is getting wooden doors to stay in the same position when the weather
changes, and this affects most draught excluders too.
The best excluder I've seen was a 5mm silcone tube that really did
bounce back, even after being compressed for a couple of weeks. IME
other materials don't, at least not for very long.