Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Fitting PVC fascias no soffits
Hi,
I'm consderering replacing the existing wooden facias with PVC. The existing fascia is simply a length of ply nailed to the rafters, such that the fascia is practically flush with the brick work i.e. no soffit. All of the PVC fascia bords I've seen are of L section in design, to give suport for the soffit. I can't really pack out the rafter ends as the property is part of a terrace and it would not then align with my neighbors fascia. I don't want to use capping over a wooden board. How does one get around this, should I just cut the unwanted piece off? Can you get flat 16mm thick boards? Thanks Jim |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Fitting PVC fascias no soffits
"Jim Ingram" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm consderering replacing the existing wooden facias with PVC. The existing fascia is simply a length of ply nailed to the rafters, such that the fascia is practically flush with the brick work i.e. no soffit. All of the PVC fascia bords I've seen are of L section in design, to give suport for the soffit. I can't really pack out the rafter ends as the property is part of a terrace and it would not then align with my neighbors fascia. I don't want to use capping over a wooden board. How does one get around this, should I just cut the unwanted piece off? Can you get flat 16mm thick boards? Thanks Jim Hi Jim, I've just measured some board i have and the thickness is about 17mm and the L lip is a further 17mm. You can cut this off easily with a table saw or with care, a hand saw. The edge does give extra rigidity and I wonder if just attaching it to your rafter ends migth not be enough support witht eh edge cut off leading to a rather scalloped look. The surface is quite shiny making impertections in the surface very noticeable. I suggest you fix it with stainless steel screws and whiteplastic screw covers. I found the plastic topped nails difficult to work with as the tops popped off and the de-capitated nails are sods to pull out without damaging the board as they are ring shanked and grip tight. Also as you are fixing into end grain of old wood, good long screw will grip better. I also made a simple jig for drilling the screw holes which meant they came out all in line. Hope this helps Good luck Bob |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Fitting PVC fascias no soffits
"Bob Minchin" wrote in message ... "Jim Ingram" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm consderering replacing the existing wooden facias with PVC. The existing fascia is simply a length of ply nailed to the rafters, such that the fascia is practically flush with the brick work i.e. no soffit. All of the PVC fascia bords I've seen are of L section in design, to give suport for the soffit. I can't really pack out the rafter ends as the property is part of a terrace and it would not then align with my neighbors fascia. I don't want to use capping over a wooden board. How does one get around this, should I just cut the unwanted piece off? Can you get flat 16mm thick boards? Thanks Jim Hi Jim, I've just measured some board i have and the thickness is about 17mm and the L lip is a further 17mm. You can cut this off easily with a table saw or with care, a hand saw. The edge does give extra rigidity and I wonder if just attaching it to your rafter ends migth not be enough support witht eh edge cut off leading to a rather scalloped look. The surface is quite shiny making impertections in the surface very noticeable. I suggest you fix it with stainless steel screws and whiteplastic screw covers. I found the plastic topped nails difficult to work with as the tops popped off and the de-capitated nails are sods to pull out without damaging the board as they are ring shanked and grip tight. Also as you are fixing into end grain of old wood, good long screw will grip better. I also made a simple jig for drilling the screw holes which meant they came out all in line. Hope this helps Good luck Bob =========================== You could fit it 'inside out' - i.e. with the 17mm projection on the outside. Cut a 1/4" drip groove in the bottom with a router. Cic. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 28 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try SPAMfighter for free now! |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Fitting PVC fascias no soffits
"Cicero" wrote in message . uk... "Bob Minchin" wrote in message ... "Jim Ingram" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm consderering replacing the existing wooden facias with PVC. The existing fascia is simply a length of ply nailed to the rafters, such that the fascia is practically flush with the brick work i.e. no soffit. All of the PVC fascia bords I've seen are of L section in design, to give suport for the soffit. I can't really pack out the rafter ends as the property is part of a terrace and it would not then align with my neighbors fascia. I don't want to use capping over a wooden board. How does one get around this, should I just cut the unwanted piece off? Can you get flat 16mm thick boards? Thanks Jim Hi Jim, I've just measured some board i have and the thickness is about 17mm and the L lip is a further 17mm. You can cut this off easily with a table saw or with care, a hand saw. The edge does give extra rigidity and I wonder if just attaching it to your rafter ends migth not be enough support witht eh edge cut off leading to a rather scalloped look. The surface is quite shiny making impertections in the surface very noticeable. I suggest you fix it with stainless steel screws and whiteplastic screw covers. I found the plastic topped nails difficult to work with as the tops popped off and the de-capitated nails are sods to pull out without damaging the board as they are ring shanked and grip tight. Also as you are fixing into end grain of old wood, good long screw will grip better. I also made a simple jig for drilling the screw holes which meant they came out all in line. Hope this helps Good luck Bob =========================== You could fit it 'inside out' - i.e. with the 17mm projection on the outside. Cut a 1/4" drip groove in the bottom with a router. Cic. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- ---- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 28 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try SPAMfighter for free now! This won't work with the stuff I've got it is a naff off white colour on the inside. Bob |
#5
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Fitting PVC fascias no soffits
"Bob Minchin" wrote in message ... "Cicero" wrote in message . uk... "Bob Minchin" wrote in message ... "Jim Ingram" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm consderering replacing the existing wooden facias with PVC. The existing fascia is simply a length of ply nailed to the rafters, such that the fascia is practically flush with the brick work i.e. no soffit. All of the PVC fascia bords I've seen are of L section in design, to give suport for the soffit. I can't really pack out the rafter ends as the property is part of a terrace and it would not then align with my neighbors fascia. I don't want to use capping over a wooden board. How does one get around this, should I just cut the unwanted piece off? Can you get flat 16mm thick boards? Thanks Jim Hi Jim, I've just measured some board i have and the thickness is about 17mm and the L lip is a further 17mm. You can cut this off easily with a table saw or with care, a hand saw. The edge does give extra rigidity and I wonder if just attaching it to your rafter ends migth not be enough support witht eh edge cut off leading to a rather scalloped look. The surface is quite shiny making impertections in the surface very noticeable. snip Hope this helps Good luck Bob =========================== You could fit it 'inside out' - i.e. with the 17mm projection on the outside. Cut a 1/4" drip groove in the bottom with a router. Cic. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- snip This won't work with the stuff I've got it is a naff off white colour on the inside. Bob ============================ I think that inner surface is still weather-proof and if so it might be worth putting up with the (possibly) poor appearance. It won't be very visible 16 feet up at the top of the house. Cic. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 38 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try SPAMfighter for free now! |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Replacing Soffits / Fascias (is FasciaMania okay) | UK diy | |||
"idiot proof" final circuit design | UK diy | |||
soffits and fascias | UK diy | |||
Stupid question of the day.... BSP screw-in plumbing connections | UK diy | |||
Old hot water tank fitting | UK diy |