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-   -   Fitting PVC fascias no soffits (https://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/170019-fitting-pvc-fascias-no-soffits.html)

Jim Ingram July 22nd 06 07:36 PM

Fitting PVC fascias no soffits
 
Hi,

I'm consderering replacing the existing wooden facias with PVC. The existing
fascia is simply a length of ply nailed to the rafters, such that the
fascia is practically flush with the brick work i.e. no soffit. All of the
PVC fascia bords I've seen are of L section in design, to give suport for
the soffit. I can't really pack out the rafter ends as the property is part
of a terrace and it would not then align with my neighbors fascia. I don't
want to use capping over a wooden board. How does one get around this,
should I just cut the unwanted piece off? Can you get flat 16mm thick
boards?

Thanks

Jim





Bob Minchin July 22nd 06 09:16 PM

Fitting PVC fascias no soffits
 

"Jim Ingram" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I'm consderering replacing the existing wooden facias with PVC. The

existing
fascia is simply a length of ply nailed to the rafters, such that the
fascia is practically flush with the brick work i.e. no soffit. All of the
PVC fascia bords I've seen are of L section in design, to give suport for
the soffit. I can't really pack out the rafter ends as the property is

part
of a terrace and it would not then align with my neighbors fascia. I don't
want to use capping over a wooden board. How does one get around this,
should I just cut the unwanted piece off? Can you get flat 16mm thick
boards?

Thanks

Jim




Hi Jim,

I've just measured some board i have and the thickness is about 17mm and the
L lip is a further 17mm.
You can cut this off easily with a table saw or with care, a hand saw.
The edge does give extra rigidity and I wonder if just attaching it to your
rafter ends migth not be enough support witht eh edge cut off leading to a
rather scalloped look. The surface is quite shiny making impertections in
the surface very noticeable.

I suggest you fix it with stainless steel screws and whiteplastic screw
covers. I found the plastic topped nails difficult to work with as the tops
popped off and the de-capitated nails are sods to pull out without damaging
the board as they are ring shanked and grip tight.
Also as you are fixing into end grain of old wood, good long screw will grip
better.

I also made a simple jig for drilling the screw holes which meant they came
out all in line.

Hope this helps

Good luck

Bob



Cicero July 22nd 06 11:02 PM

Fitting PVC fascias no soffits
 

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...

"Jim Ingram" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I'm consderering replacing the existing wooden facias with PVC. The

existing
fascia is simply a length of ply nailed to the rafters, such that the
fascia is practically flush with the brick work i.e. no soffit. All of

the
PVC fascia bords I've seen are of L section in design, to give suport

for
the soffit. I can't really pack out the rafter ends as the property is

part
of a terrace and it would not then align with my neighbors fascia. I

don't
want to use capping over a wooden board. How does one get around this,
should I just cut the unwanted piece off? Can you get flat 16mm thick
boards?

Thanks

Jim




Hi Jim,

I've just measured some board i have and the thickness is about 17mm and

the
L lip is a further 17mm.
You can cut this off easily with a table saw or with care, a hand saw.
The edge does give extra rigidity and I wonder if just attaching it to

your
rafter ends migth not be enough support witht eh edge cut off leading to a
rather scalloped look. The surface is quite shiny making impertections in
the surface very noticeable.

I suggest you fix it with stainless steel screws and whiteplastic screw
covers. I found the plastic topped nails difficult to work with as the

tops
popped off and the de-capitated nails are sods to pull out without

damaging
the board as they are ring shanked and grip tight.
Also as you are fixing into end grain of old wood, good long screw will

grip
better.

I also made a simple jig for drilling the screw holes which meant they

came
out all in line.

Hope this helps

Good luck

Bob


===========================
You could fit it 'inside out' - i.e. with the 17mm projection on the
outside. Cut a 1/4" drip groove in the bottom with a router.

Cic.


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Bob Minchin July 23rd 06 08:02 PM

Fitting PVC fascias no soffits
 

"Cicero" wrote in message
. uk...

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...

"Jim Ingram" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I'm consderering replacing the existing wooden facias with PVC. The

existing
fascia is simply a length of ply nailed to the rafters, such that the
fascia is practically flush with the brick work i.e. no soffit. All of

the
PVC fascia bords I've seen are of L section in design, to give suport

for
the soffit. I can't really pack out the rafter ends as the property is

part
of a terrace and it would not then align with my neighbors fascia. I

don't
want to use capping over a wooden board. How does one get around this,
should I just cut the unwanted piece off? Can you get flat 16mm thick
boards?

Thanks

Jim




Hi Jim,

I've just measured some board i have and the thickness is about 17mm and

the
L lip is a further 17mm.
You can cut this off easily with a table saw or with care, a hand saw.
The edge does give extra rigidity and I wonder if just attaching it to

your
rafter ends migth not be enough support witht eh edge cut off leading to

a
rather scalloped look. The surface is quite shiny making impertections

in
the surface very noticeable.

I suggest you fix it with stainless steel screws and whiteplastic screw
covers. I found the plastic topped nails difficult to work with as the

tops
popped off and the de-capitated nails are sods to pull out without

damaging
the board as they are ring shanked and grip tight.
Also as you are fixing into end grain of old wood, good long screw will

grip
better.

I also made a simple jig for drilling the screw holes which meant they

came
out all in line.

Hope this helps

Good luck

Bob


===========================
You could fit it 'inside out' - i.e. with the 17mm projection on the
outside. Cut a 1/4" drip groove in the bottom with a router.

Cic.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------

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----
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It has removed 28 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
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This won't work with the stuff I've got it is a naff off white colour on the
inside.

Bob



Cicero July 23rd 06 10:59 PM

Fitting PVC fascias no soffits
 

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...

"Cicero" wrote in message
. uk...

"Bob Minchin" wrote in message
...

"Jim Ingram" wrote in

message
...
Hi,

I'm consderering replacing the existing wooden facias with PVC. The
existing
fascia is simply a length of ply nailed to the rafters, such that

the
fascia is practically flush with the brick work i.e. no soffit. All

of
the
PVC fascia bords I've seen are of L section in design, to give

suport
for
the soffit. I can't really pack out the rafter ends as the property

is
part
of a terrace and it would not then align with my neighbors fascia. I

don't
want to use capping over a wooden board. How does one get around

this,
should I just cut the unwanted piece off? Can you get flat 16mm

thick
boards?

Thanks

Jim




Hi Jim,

I've just measured some board i have and the thickness is about 17mm

and
the
L lip is a further 17mm.
You can cut this off easily with a table saw or with care, a hand saw.
The edge does give extra rigidity and I wonder if just attaching it to

your
rafter ends migth not be enough support witht eh edge cut off leading

to
a
rather scalloped look. The surface is quite shiny making impertections

in
the surface very noticeable.

snip


Hope this helps

Good luck

Bob


===========================
You could fit it 'inside out' - i.e. with the 17mm projection on the
outside. Cut a 1/4" drip groove in the bottom with a router.

Cic.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
snip


This won't work with the stuff I've got it is a naff off white colour on

the
inside.

Bob


============================
I think that inner surface is still weather-proof and if so it might be
worth putting up with the (possibly) poor appearance. It won't be very
visible 16 feet up at the top of the house.

Cic.


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