My daughter lost a bag with keys and address information, so the
question is basically what should we do with the locks (Yale cylinders)?
Changing the cylinders is dead easy but could a locksmith modify the
existing cylinder and make new keys for it, or should I not bother and
just get new cylinders out of B&Q?

Thanks in advance!

"oh-news" wrote in message
...
My daughter lost a bag with keys and address information, so the question
is basically what should we do with the locks (Yale cylinders)? Changing
the cylinders is dead easy but could a locksmith modify the existing
cylinder and make new keys for it, or should I not bother and just get new
cylinders out of B&Q?

While a locksmith could modify the cylinders, it will probably take a day or
two, so what do you do about the doors while that is happening? OTOH, I
wouldn't buy cylinders from B&Q, unless they say how many pins the cylinder
has. Basic cylinders are five pin, but six pin is considered to be the
minimum needed to give good security and seven is even better, although more
expensive.

Colin Bignell

"nightjar .uk.com" nightjar@insert my surname here wrote in message
...

"oh-news" wrote in message
...
My daughter lost a bag with keys and address information, so the question
is basically what should we do with the locks (Yale cylinders)? Changing
the cylinders is dead easy but could a locksmith modify the existing
cylinder and make new keys for it, or should I not bother and just get
new cylinders out of B&Q?

While a locksmith could modify the cylinders, it will probably take a day
or two, so what do you do about the doors while that is happening? OTOH, I
wouldn't buy cylinders from B&Q, unless they say how many pins the
cylinder has. Basic cylinders are five pin, but six pin is considered to
be the minimum needed to give good security and seven is even better,
although more expensive.

It may cost more for a cylinder modification and all the new keys that are
required to be cut to match than buying a new cylinder with free new keys.

Adam

On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 17:43:57 +0100, oh-news wrote:

My daughter lost a bag with keys and address information, so the
question is basically what should we do with the locks (Yale cylinders)?
Changing the cylinders is dead easy but could a locksmith modify the
existing cylinder and make new keys for it, or should I not bother and
just get new cylinders out of B&Q?

Change the cylinders and while you're at it fit proper mortice locks as
well, because a Yale won't stop anyone.

On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 16:43:57 UTC, oh-news wrote:

My daughter lost a bag with keys and address information, so the
question is basically what should we do with the locks (Yale cylinders)?
Changing the cylinders is dead easy but could a locksmith modify the
existing cylinder and make new keys for it, or should I not bother and
just get new cylinders out of B&Q?

1) Get new cylinders at B&Q
2) Modify old cylinder, at your leisure, and make a key for it. Not
hard, and a bit of fun DIY!

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

"oh-news" wrote in message
...
My daughter lost a bag with keys and address information, so the question
is basically what should we do with the locks (Yale cylinders)? Changing
the cylinders is dead easy but could a locksmith modify the existing
cylinder and make new keys for it, or should I not bother and just get new
cylinders out of B&Q?

Thanks in advance!

5 minute job to re-key a cylinder but not really worth it, replace it.

On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 18:59:51 +0100, Steve Firth
wrote:

|On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 17:43:57 +0100, oh-news wrote:
|
| My daughter lost a bag with keys and address information, so the
| question is basically what should we do with the locks (Yale cylinders)?
| Changing the cylinders is dead easy but could a locksmith modify the
| existing cylinder and make new keys for it, or should I not bother and
| just get new cylinders out of B&Q?
|
|Change the cylinders and while you're at it fit proper mortice locks as
|well, because a Yale won't stop anyone.

**5** leaver ones!!!
The best you can afford.

--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 17:59:51 UTC, Steve Firth
wrote:

On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 17:43:57 +0100, oh-news wrote:

My daughter lost a bag with keys and address information, so the
question is basically what should we do with the locks (Yale cylinders)?
Changing the cylinders is dead easy but could a locksmith modify the
existing cylinder and make new keys for it, or should I not bother and
just get new cylinders out of B&Q?

Change the cylinders and while you're at it fit proper mortice locks as
well, because a Yale won't stop anyone.

Isn't that a generalisation? (I assume that by 'Yale' you mean anything
that looks like a cylinder lock)

My insurance company wanted 5 lever mortice but are perfectly happy with
our Yale BS 3621 cylinder lock. And the keys are lighter to carry!
--
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poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
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"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
.uk...

"nightjar .uk.com" nightjar@insert my surname here wrote in message
...

"oh-news" wrote in message
...
My daughter lost a bag with keys and address information, so the
question is basically what should we do with the locks (Yale cylinders)?
Changing the cylinders is dead easy but could a locksmith modify the
existing cylinder and make new keys for it, or should I not bother and
just get new cylinders out of B&Q?

While a locksmith could modify the cylinders, it will probably take a day
or two, so what do you do about the doors while that is happening? OTOH,
I wouldn't buy cylinders from B&Q, unless they say how many pins the
cylinder has. Basic cylinders are five pin, but six pin is considered to
be the minimum needed to give good security and seven is even better,
although more expensive.

It may cost more for a cylinder modification and all the new keys that are
required to be cut to match than buying a new cylinder with free new keys.

That depends on the security level. It is definitely cheaper for me to get
cylinders modified than to buy new ones, but I have lots of high security
locks in a three-tier master key system.

Colin Bignell

Bob Eager wrote:

2) Modify old cylinder, at your leisure, and make a key for it. Not
hard, and a bit of fun DIY!

how do you rekey those yourself? drill out the metal plugs over the
pins, swap pins, then how do you replug them?


NT

On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 22:49:40 UTC, wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:

2) Modify old cylinder, at your leisure, and make a key for it. Not
hard, and a bit of fun DIY!

how do you rekey those yourself? drill out the metal plugs over the
pins, swap pins, then how do you replug them?

Braze (or glue) a piece of brass over the top. Not done one of those
myself, mind..think I first read it in Practical Mechanics.

I did sort of re-key a lock while at university. It was one of those
where the cylinder is in a rectangular block with rounded corners. That
was easy and just required dismantling.

Why did I re-key it? Well, I didn't exactly. I just rearranged the pins;
I swapped two of the pins with 'user' key cuts in the same place, but
'master' key cuts in different places. In other words, I de-mastered it.
It was because we had a sadistic cleaner who would burst in very early
and disrupt sleep or other activity.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

Bob Eager wrote:
On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 22:49:40 UTC, wrote:
Bob Eager wrote:

2) Modify old cylinder, at your leisure, and make a key for it. Not
hard, and a bit of fun DIY!

how do you rekey those yourself? drill out the metal plugs over the
pins, swap pins, then how do you replug them?

Braze (or glue) a piece of brass over the top. Not done one of those
myself, mind..think I first read it in Practical Mechanics.

I did sort of re-key a lock while at university. It was one of those
where the cylinder is in a rectangular block with rounded corners. That
was easy and just required dismantling.

Why did I re-key it? Well, I didn't exactly. I just rearranged the pins;
I swapped two of the pins with 'user' key cuts in the same place, but
'master' key cuts in different places. In other words, I de-mastered it.
It was because we had a sadistic cleaner who would burst in very early
and disrupt sleep or other activity.

Ahh. I used to modify 2 and 3 lever locks to make them a lot more
thiefproof, but not played with the cylinders as much. Rarely need to
mod locks now, if I need a decent one I can get it.

Another point for someone else is a modded lock might lead to an
insurance claim refusal on the grounds that its no longer BS whatever
approved.


NT

On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 17:43:57 +0100, oh-news
wrote:

Changing the cylinders is dead easy but could a locksmith modify the
existing cylinder and make new keys for it,

Probably not (most cheap cylinders aren't rekeyable, by practical
means)

Certainly not for less money than buying some new cylinders.

I've even found it cheaper to buy new cylinders with plenty of supplied
keys than it was to get some spare keys cut. It's a question of mass
production vs. one-off cutting.

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 09:07:41 UTC, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Change the cylinders and while you're at it fit proper mortice locks as
well, because a Yale won't stop anyone.

Some Yale type locks provide sufficient security, but they are expensive.
However, I prefer the convenience, so fitted one anyway. The type is a PBS1,
IIRC. It is much more substantial than other types and is more strongly
attached to the door.

It also has a mechanism to stop it being 'carded'...


--
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poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

On 19 Jul 2006 11:04:32 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 09:07:41 UTC, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Change the cylinders and while you're at it fit proper mortice locks as
well, because a Yale won't stop anyone.

Some Yale type locks provide sufficient security, but they are expensive.
However, I prefer the convenience, so fitted one anyway. The type is a PBS1,
IIRC. It is much more substantial than other types and is more strongly
attached to the door.

It also has a mechanism to stop it being 'carded'...

Which is about as effective as a chocolate fireguard.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...

Some Yale type locks provide sufficient security, but they are expensive.
However, I prefer the convenience, so fitted one anyway.

Tee hee. I prefer the convenience of not having a Yale type lock so I can go
outside my front door without having to worry..

cheers,
clive

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
...
On 19 Jul 2006 11:04:32 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 09:07:41 UTC, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Change the cylinders and while you're at it fit proper mortice locks as
well, because a Yale won't stop anyone.

Some Yale type locks provide sufficient security, but they are
expensive.
However, I prefer the convenience, so fitted one anyway. The type is a
PBS1,
IIRC. It is much more substantial than other types and is more strongly
attached to the door.

It also has a mechanism to stop it being 'carded'...

Which is about as effective as a chocolate fireguard.

Is this the one with the extra sticky out bit which means the bolt can only
push in at the same time? When the door is shut, the bolt is out, the extra
bit is still pushed in, so you can only move the bolt via the lock.

If so, how does one bypass it/render it ineffective, allowing you to 'card'
it?

cheers,
clive

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 11:14:37 UTC, Steve Firth
wrote:

On 19 Jul 2006 11:04:32 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 09:07:41 UTC, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Change the cylinders and while you're at it fit proper mortice locks as
well, because a Yale won't stop anyone.

Some Yale type locks provide sufficient security, but they are expensive.
However, I prefer the convenience, so fitted one anyway. The type is a PBS1,
IIRC. It is much more substantial than other types and is more strongly
attached to the door.

It also has a mechanism to stop it being 'carded'...

Which is about as effective as a chocolate fireguard.

Explain, please. As it stands, that's a sweeping, unsubstantiated
statement. I'm not even sure you're talking about the same thing. But
I'd like to know.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

"Clive George" wrote in message
...
"Steve Firth" wrote in message
...
On 19 Jul 2006 11:04:32 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 09:07:41 UTC, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Change the cylinders and while you're at it fit proper mortice locks
as
well, because a Yale won't stop anyone.

Some Yale type locks provide sufficient security, but they are
expensive.
However, I prefer the convenience, so fitted one anyway. The type is a
PBS1,
IIRC. It is much more substantial than other types and is more strongly
attached to the door.

It also has a mechanism to stop it being 'carded'...

Which is about as effective as a chocolate fireguard.

Is this the one with the extra sticky out bit which means the bolt can
only push in at the same time? When the door is shut, the bolt is out, the
extra bit is still pushed in, so you can only move the bolt via the lock.

If so, how does one bypass it/render it ineffective, allowing you to
'card' it?


Probably not what he meant (we'll see) but my view is that, over a certain
level of lock security, the lock is way ahead of the door frame, the door,
windows round the back etc. If you can pop round the back of a house and
break a widow muffled with a blanket, or force one that's been left ajar in
the hot weather, the lock is, as he said, as much use as a chocolate
fireguard. The security chain is only as strong as the weakest link. People
often (in this weather) make a great play about locking their front door at
night and then leave windows open onto flat roofs etc. A reasonably secure
Yale lock is usually as good as is needed, given the rest of the security on
most houses. If you are into motorised steel shutters on all windows etc
THEN you need the fanciest damn lock there is as that will then be the weak
point. Alternatively, have nothing worth nicking and leave the doors and
windows open!

And another thing, why lock d/g window handles when you go away? To operate
a handle from outside you would have to break a window anyway and then you
can climb through the hole. It adds no extra security, just a lot of
annoyance when you get back!


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

"Bob Mannix" wrote in message
...


And another thing, why lock d/g window handles when you go away? To
operate a handle from outside you would have to break a window anyway and
then you can climb through the hole. It adds no extra security, just a lot
of annoyance when you get back!

It invalidates my house contents insurance if they are not locked.

Adam

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 15:19:30 GMT, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


"Bob Mannix" wrote in message
...


And another thing, why lock d/g window handles when you go away? To
operate a handle from outside you would have to break a window anyway and
then you can climb through the hole. It adds no extra security, just a lot
of annoyance when you get back!

It invalidates my house contents insurance if they are not locked.


It does mine as well.

I think the rationale is that a burglar can quietly break open a small
window then open a big casement with a wire coat hanger. this gives
him a big opening to make his escape, possibly in a hurry, which is
not encumbered with broken glass. I'm told an experienced burglar will
not enter a property without securing an escape route.

DG

nightjar nightjar@ wrote:
While a locksmith could modify the cylinders, it will probably take a day or
two, so what do you do about the doors while that is happening? OTOH, I
wouldn't buy cylinders from B&Q, unless they say how many pins the cylinder
has. Basic cylinders are five pin, but six pin is considered to be the
minimum needed to give good security and seven is even better, although more
expensive.

Thanks for the tip!!! I just got two six-pin cylinders from B&Q at £13
each to replace the five-pin for my flat and six-pin for the communal
exit door, plus in all 14 extra keys (two for one deal at same B&Q). I
had it in my head that cylinders were far more expensive, must have been
from watching dodgy locksmiths being stitched up on TV...

Steve Firth wrote:
On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 17:43:57 +0100, oh-news wrote:


Change the cylinders and while you're at it fit proper mortice locks as
well, because a Yale won't stop anyone.

I fitted a 5 lever high security Yale mortice lock from B&Q for a friend
when her last lock jammed. The new lock lasted 2 weeks before it went
wrong, preventing her from inserting the key. Took it back to B&Q, they
replaced it no quibble.

The new one lasted 24 hours before failing in the same way. Took it
back to B&Q, they replaced it again and refunded the £15 or so she had
spent on extra keys (from another shop) for each new lock. Brownie
points for B&Q in my book.

The latest one has worked OK for a month - fingers crossed.

I complained to Yale via their customer service e mail address, twice,
and was completely ignored both times.

Might be worth bearing this in mind if you have a choice of Yale or
another reputable make when buying locks.

If anybody from Yale reads this, remember a satisisfied customer tells 3
people, a dissatisfied customer tells 100.

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 19:20:25 GMT, Steve
wrote:


|I fitted a 5 lever high security Yale mortice lock from B&Q

|If anybody from Yale reads this, remember a satisisfied customer tells 3
|people, a dissatisfied customer tells 100.

My local Locksmith CH Wood (Security) Bradford limited 221 Wakefield Road
Bradford ... sells me Chubbs. They are so good that all *three* have
outlasted the doors they were fitted on, I recovered them and now they sit
in my cupboard to await another door. All three have been repaired by C H
Wood, or rekeyed when necessary, at very reasonable cost.

This satisfied customer will tell anybody.
--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

The message
from Dave Fawthrop contains these words:

My local Locksmith CH Wood (Security) Bradford limited 221 Wakefield Road
Bradford ... sells me Chubbs.

You're lucky to have a local locksmith. I can't find one anywhere round
here. Plenty of mobile blokes who'll come round in a van and charge you
for the privilege, but no shops you can walk in to and buy a proper
lock.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On 19 Jul 2006 12:09:38 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

Explain, please. As it stands, that's a sweeping, unsubstantiated
statement. I'm not even sure you're talking about the same thing. But
I'd like to know.

Well, I've been able to open supposedly "card proof" Yale locks for years,
you need a (very) thin blade with a hard point rather than a card but it's
damned easy once you get the knack. Not that a professional thief would
bother, you can prise a Yale lock off from the outside easily by applying
pressure in the right place because the screw fixings are not adequate. If
that fails, then the casting used for the striking plate is pathetic and
tends to shatter with a damned hard bang.

I've had to make entrance to several places with Yale locks which have the
slider and roller to prevent carding. I've slid back the lock on three and
broken two with minimal damage to the door. Much depends on how well the
door fits to the frame and most doors schrink somewhat after a few years.

I'm not sure I could still do, I've had no need to practice recently, but
I'm sure that the modern yoof can better me time after time.

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 21:33:33 UTC, Steve Firth
wrote:

Well, I've been able to open supposedly "card proof" Yale locks for years,
you need a (very) thin blade with a hard point rather than a card but it's
damned easy once you get the knack.

How do you defeat the additional lock that is engaged when the door is
closed. There is a plunger that is pressed in by the striker plate,
which locks the blot so that is cannot be moved.

Not that a professional thief would
bother, you can prise a Yale lock off from the outside easily by applying
pressure in the right place because the screw fixings are not adequate.

On the BS 3621 model, there are more, and larger, fixings.

If
that fails, then the casting used for the striking plate is pathetic and
tends to shatter with a damned hard bang.

Again, it's a different type of casting.

I'm not sure we're discussing the same thing.

--
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On 19 Jul 2006 21:49:35 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

How do you defeat the additional lock that is engaged when the door is
closed. There is a plunger that is pressed in by the striker plate,
which locks the blot so that is cannot be moved.

Only, IIRC if the user "double locks" the door. If they simply let it slam
to as 99.9999% of users do then the punger can be "walked" out of the way
by using a pair of picks (think sharp pointed blades as previously
described). As the punger is moved the tongue of hte lock will move with
it.

If the door has been double locked then this doesn't work as the plunger is
locked in position. Then a damned good thump works and it's far easier to
do than with a mortice lock.

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 22:20:23 UTC, Steve Firth
wrote:

Only, IIRC if the user "double locks" the door. If they simply let it slam
to as 99.9999% of users do then the punger can be "walked" out of the way
by using a pair of picks (think sharp pointed blades as previously
described). As the punger is moved the tongue of hte lock will move with
it.

Not on my lock. The plunger is pressed *in* when the door is closed. It
cannot move any further in than it is already. It cannot come out
because the striker plate is in the way. IOW, there is no way it can
move (or be moved) with the door closed. The tip of the plunger is flush
with the 'edge' face of the lock.

Or am I misunderstanding something?

--
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"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 22:20:23 UTC, Steve Firth
wrote:

Only, IIRC if the user "double locks" the door. If they simply let it
slam
to as 99.9999% of users do then the punger can be "walked" out of the way
by using a pair of picks (think sharp pointed blades as previously
described). As the punger is moved the tongue of hte lock will move with
it.

Not on my lock. The plunger is pressed *in* when the door is closed. It
cannot move any further in than it is already. It cannot come out
because the striker plate is in the way. IOW, there is no way it can
move (or be moved) with the door closed. The tip of the plunger is flush
with the 'edge' face of the lock.

Or am I misunderstanding something?

(thinks)

I've seen yale type locks with a secondary moving bolt within the main bolt.
Are these the less secure ones?

The ones you're talking about (bob) are the ones I've seen - the plunger
looks like a thinner version of the main bolt, just above it, and when the
door is shut it rests on the striker plate, ie can't move.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...2569&id=54648#

shows a similar one. In the enlarged photo, you can see a little bolt above
the main one - this is the one which rests on the striker plate, rather than
within the recess.

(this isn't the same as the ones I've seen - the little bolt is of the same
profile as the main bolt on those)

cheers,
clive

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 22:21:13 +0100, Guy King wrote:

|The message
|from Dave Fawthrop contains these words:
|
| My local Locksmith CH Wood (Security) Bradford limited 221 Wakefield Road
| Bradford ... sells me Chubbs.
|
|You're lucky to have a local locksmith. I can't find one anywhere round
|here. Plenty of mobile blokes who'll come round in a van and charge you
|for the privilege, but no shops you can walk in to and buy a proper
|lock.

We have no less that *three* *good* Local locksmiths in Bradford Yorks, I
use the best, but the others appear fine.

IMO everyone should search out local good locksmiths.
--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

"Derek ^" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 15:19:30 GMT, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


"Bob Mannix" wrote in message
...


And another thing, why lock d/g window handles when you go away? To
operate a handle from outside you would have to break a window anyway
and
then you can climb through the hole. It adds no extra security, just a
lot
of annoyance when you get back!

It invalidates my house contents insurance if they are not locked.


It does mine as well.

I think the rationale is that a burglar can quietly break open a small
window then open a big casement with a wire coat hanger. this gives
him a big opening to make his escape, possibly in a hurry, which is
not encumbered with broken glass. I'm told an experienced burglar will
not enter a property without securing an escape route.


I'm sure it's not mentioned in my policy. And the [toughened] glass shatters
so doesn't leave a hazard. If it does mention in the policy though, that is
definitely a reason I guess!


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

In article , Christian
McArdle writes
My local Locksmith CH Wood (Security) Bradford limited 221 Wakefield Road
Bradford ... sells me Chubbs. They are so good that all *three* have
outlasted the doors they were fitted on, I recovered them and now they sit

The problem is that the Chubb equivalent to the Yale PBS1 has some issues.
Firstly, it is much uglier, with a very angular appearance and a plastic
knob. Secondly, it is much harder for arthritic people to operate, as you
have a circular knob, rather than a lever. Thirdly, the anticarding
mechanism makes it very easy for the bolt to pop out when the door is open.
If the door is slammed in this condition (which is very easy to do), damage
could occur.

I've never understood why latches need to be surface mounted, dead ugly
and the surface mounting can't do the security any good. I recently broke
the mould by fitting a Union Mortice Escape Lock in place of a deadlocking
latch, it's a sashlock where the latch can be withdrawn by key via a euro
cylinder, leave off the handles & you have a deadlocking latch. Deadbolt
action on the normal rectangular bolt is via the euro cylinder too, inside
action is by a thumbturn on the cylinder. It's not BS approved but I reckon
more secure than a rimlock, BS cover is provided by a knee high deadbolt.
There's an Assa escape lock too that I think will do a better job, let me
know if anyone wants details.
--
fred
Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla

Dave Fawthrop wrote in
:

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 22:21:13 +0100, Guy King
wrote:


We have no less that *three* *good* Local locksmiths in Bradford
Yorks, I use the best, but the others appear fine.

Dodgy old area, then? ;-)

mike

On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 21:19:42 +0100, Dave Fawthrop
wrote:

My local Locksmith CH Wood (Security) Bradford limited 221 Wakefield Road
Bradford ... sells me Chubbs.

Unfortunately the Chubb BS3621 auto-deadlocking rimlock is a bit of a
dog. The plastic handle falls off (made of Unstickium) and worst of
all, it has a tendency to fire the deadlocker of the main bolt while the
door is only partially closed. This makes the door look as if it's
locked, but a light push opens it.

It's also damn near impossible to get keys cut for them that work, even
from a Chubb specialist.

In article ,
Andy Dingley wrote:
Unfortunately the Chubb BS3621 auto-deadlocking rimlock is a bit of a
dog. The plastic handle falls off (made of Unstickium) and worst of
all, it has a tendency to fire the deadlocker of the main bolt while the
door is only partially closed. This makes the door look as if it's
locked, but a light push opens it.

I've had one for ages and not found this at all. Perhaps it's because it's
properly fitted? ;-)

It's also damn near impossible to get keys cut for them that work, even
from a Chubb specialist.

When I got mine I anticipated having problems with spares since the blurb
said they couldn't be cut in the normal way. But my local locksmith made
me several copies all of which are fine.

--
*If all the world is a stage, where is the audience sitting?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.