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  #1   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
rookie
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting

After gutting my kitchen and doing the electrics, plumbing, plastering,
cabinet installation myself I weighed it up and decided it was worth
paying the money to have a professional fit my worktops. So I rang a
fitter advertised in the local paper (I wasn't able to get a
recommendation) and based on our conversation arranged for him to fit
worktops I'd already bought. They were fitted yesterday, but I'm far
from happy with the job. The mitred joints have a number of very minor
(such as 1x2mm) chips which to my eyes are really obvious, especially
since the worktops are a light grey colour and no seam fill was used in
the joint (just clear silicon).

The fitter did 2 joints (a u-shaped kitchen) and the latter is much
better than the first, although still not perfect. The latter joint I
told him to put some tape on the joint to try and avoid the chipping.
Unfortunately this was after a bad first attempt at it, so he ended up
taking 5mm off the length of the worktop and thus there's close to a
1cm gap at the end of the worktop where it ajoins the wall.

The fitter blames the chipping on the fact that they are cheap Ikea
worktops with an uncommon 'grained' surface. I'm thinking that it was
either an operator error with the router or a blunt router blade. What
do others think? Does anyone have any experience with cutting Ikea
worktops in general, or specifically the textured Aluminium effect
Numerar?

I'm kicking myself as I paid the fitter £180 for the work (for 2
joints plus 2 cutouts) yesterday as the joint didn't look too bad to my
eyes then. Also I agreed I'd apply some ColorFill seam filler and was
then happy that it would hide the chips. Now that I'm a bit more awake
today the joints look worse I'm not convinced the filler is going to
take and provide a long term solution befitting of the money spent on
the worktops and fitting. Does anyone have any experience with
repairing small chips with ColorFill?

Any general advice as to how to handle the situation would also be
appreciated.

For those interested photos available at:
http://www.geocities.com/neilbradburn/worktop/
Note: the coin in the picture is a 5p.

Thanks in advance for any input!

-Neil

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Tournifreak
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting


rookie wrote:
After gutting my kitchen and doing the electrics, plumbing, plastering,
cabinet installation myself I weighed it up and decided it was worth
paying the money to have a professional fit my worktops. So I rang a
fitter advertised in the local paper (I wasn't able to get a
recommendation) and based on our conversation arranged for him to fit
worktops I'd already bought. They were fitted yesterday, but I'm far
from happy with the job. The mitred joints have a number of very minor
(such as 1x2mm) chips which to my eyes are really obvious, especially
since the worktops are a light grey colour and no seam fill was used in
the joint (just clear silicon).

The fitter did 2 joints (a u-shaped kitchen) and the latter is much
better than the first, although still not perfect. The latter joint I
told him to put some tape on the joint to try and avoid the chipping.
Unfortunately this was after a bad first attempt at it, so he ended up
taking 5mm off the length of the worktop and thus there's close to a
1cm gap at the end of the worktop where it ajoins the wall.

The fitter blames the chipping on the fact that they are cheap Ikea
worktops with an uncommon 'grained' surface. I'm thinking that it was
either an operator error with the router or a blunt router blade. What
do others think? Does anyone have any experience with cutting Ikea
worktops in general, or specifically the textured Aluminium effect
Numerar?

I'm kicking myself as I paid the fitter £180 for the work (for 2
joints plus 2 cutouts) yesterday as the joint didn't look too bad to my
eyes then. Also I agreed I'd apply some ColorFill seam filler and was
then happy that it would hide the chips. Now that I'm a bit more awake
today the joints look worse I'm not convinced the filler is going to
take and provide a long term solution befitting of the money spent on
the worktops and fitting. Does anyone have any experience with
repairing small chips with ColorFill?

Any general advice as to how to handle the situation would also be
appreciated.

For those interested photos available at:
http://www.geocities.com/neilbradburn/worktop/
Note: the coin in the picture is a 5p.

Thanks in advance for any input!

-Neil


There seems to be quite a noticable dark line between the two worktops.
Is that actually a gap? If so, has the fitter used the proper clamps or
just butted them together?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...16359&ts=65990

Or is it that the two worktops are slightly different heights?

The chips don't look great, but I reckon they will fill OK. But the
join between the worktops looks a bigger problem to me.

Jon.

  #3   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
rookie
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting

Tournifreak said:
There seems to be quite a noticable dark line between the two worktops.
Is that actually a gap? If so, has the fitter used the proper clamps or
just butted them together?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...16359&ts=65990


Or is it that the two worktops are slightly different heights?


The chips don't look great, but I reckon they will fill OK. But the
join between the worktops looks a bigger problem to me.


Jon.


The worktops were joined using the proper clamps. There is a very thin
black line, but I thought that was inevitable with clear filler? The
following more abstract shot may be more flattering:

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0043.JPG

-Neil

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rookie
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting

rookie said:
For those interested photos available at:
http://www.geocities.com/neilbradburn/worktop/
Note: the coin in the picture is a 5p.


Sorry to mess people around! I've just found out the above webspace has
limits on downloads. I've moved them into a different webspace with no
apparent limits. The photos are now at:
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0040.JPG
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0041.JPG
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0042.JPG
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0043.JPG

-Neil

  #5   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
.
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting

rookie wrote:
rookie said:
For those interested photos available at:
http://www.geocities.com/neilbradburn/worktop/
Note: the coin in the picture is a 5p.


Sorry to mess people around! I've just found out the above webspace
has limits on downloads. I've moved them into a different webspace
with no apparent limits. The photos are now at:
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0040.JPG


substandard work.

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0041.JPG


that is _dreadful_

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0042.JPG


I see nowt wrong there ?

the fitter has buggered the worktops up and ought to replace them.





  #6   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
JoeJoe
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting


"." wrote in message
...
rookie wrote:
rookie said:
For those interested photos available at:
http://www.geocities.com/neilbradburn/worktop/
Note: the coin in the picture is a 5p.


Sorry to mess people around! I've just found out the above webspace
has limits on downloads. I've moved them into a different webspace
with no apparent limits. The photos are now at:
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0040.JPG


substandard work.

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0041.JPG


that is _dreadful_

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0042.JPG


I see nowt wrong there ?

the fitter has buggered the worktops up and ought to replace them.


Agreed - anything but a professional job. Probably not what you want to hear
now the the guy has your money and gone...


  #7   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Stuart
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting

On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 17:16:43 +0100, "JoeJoe" wrote:


"." wrote in message
...
rookie wrote:
rookie said:
For those interested photos available at:
http://www.geocities.com/neilbradburn/worktop/
Note: the coin in the picture is a 5p.

Sorry to mess people around! I've just found out the above webspace
has limits on downloads. I've moved them into a different webspace
with no apparent limits. The photos are now at:
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0040.JPG


substandard work.

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0041.JPG


that is _dreadful_

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0042.JPG


I see nowt wrong there ?

the fitter has buggered the worktops up and ought to replace them.


Agreed - anything but a professional job. Probably not what you want to hear
now the the guy has your money and gone...


Last year or so I got a couple of worktops ....MFI Glossy ones ...mitre joined
and a hob and sink fitted and the guy used a router and clamps underneath .he
used clear silicon and the join can hardly be seen ....absolutely no chipping
.....I was well pleased . He only took £55....If he had done what I see in your
pics I'd have been well NOT pleased ,especially the one ending in 40 .
Stuart
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Chris Cowley
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting

On 11 Apr 2006 08:54:48 -0700, "rookie"
wrote:

rookie said:
For those interested photos available at:
http://www.geocities.com/neilbradburn/worktop/
Note: the coin in the picture is a 5p.


Sorry to mess people around! I've just found out the above webspace has
limits on downloads. I've moved them into a different webspace with no
apparent limits. The photos are now at:
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0040.JPG
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0041.JPG
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0042.JPG
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0043.JPG


That is an absolute horror. I'm not a kitchen fitter, but I did my own
worktops recently and the joins look roughly a gazillion times better
than that. I will concede that some worktop surfaces are probably
harder to work with than others, but the guy was clearly either having a
bad day, was using a old router bit, or is just plain not up to the job.
There should be no chips at all along the joins.

He should at least refund you the money you paid for his shoddy work,
and I would ask for the worktops he ruined to be replaced also.

I hope you get a decent result.
--
Chris Cowley
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NikV
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting


"Stuart" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 17:16:43 +0100, "JoeJoe" wrote:


"." wrote in message
...
rookie wrote:
rookie said:
For those interested photos available at:
http://www.geocities.com/neilbradburn/worktop/
Note: the coin in the picture is a 5p.

Sorry to mess people around! I've just found out the above webspace
has limits on downloads. I've moved them into a different webspace
with no apparent limits. The photos are now at:
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0040.JPG

substandard work.

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0041.JPG

that is _dreadful_

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/neil.bradb...p/DSCF0042.JPG

I see nowt wrong there ?

the fitter has buggered the worktops up and ought to replace them.


Agreed - anything but a professional job. Probably not what you want to
hear
now the the guy has your money and gone...


Last year or so I got a couple of worktops ....MFI Glossy ones ...mitre
joined
and a hob and sink fitted and the guy used a router and clamps underneath
.he
used clear silicon and the join can hardly be seen ....absolutely no
chipping
....I was well pleased . He only took £55....If he had done what I see in
your
pics I'd have been well NOT pleased ,especially the one ending in 40 .
Stuart



we were in a very similar position to you - we bought base unit doors and
wall cupboard + doors, I fitted the wall cupboards their fitter was to fit
the doors on the base units and the worktops (£320) inc plumbing for sink
and fitting hob, usually I would do all this myself but I was strapped for
time and they said they could do their bit in a day !!!!! well 11 months
later - my bits look fine but 2 bits of extra worktop later its still not
fitted to my satisfaction but it looks better than your fitter managed (ps
still not paid them the fitting fee)


--
(º·.¸(¨*·.¸ ¸.·*¨)¸.·º)
.·°·. NIK .·°·.
(¸.·º(¸.·¨* *¨·.¸)º·.¸)


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Cicero
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting


"rookie" wrote in message
oups.com...
Well, I've spoken with the fitter and although he admits that the joint
is chipped he isn't prepared to do anything at all about it - saying
that I'd seen the joint when he left and that the Ikea worktop was the
reason for the chipping (crap as he put it). He wasn't prepared to
return the worktops as I asked him to - I wonder why! Anyway, C'est la
vie! grr....

Since I can't get new pieces re-cut elsewhere since it would involve a
different worktop jig (correct?), it looks like I'm going to have to
pull the 2 joints apart and try and at least fill in, if not do away
with, the black void line using the forementioned ColorFill. Since the
tail of the U is 1cm short I can actually carefully push it's joint
apart from the dog bone cutouts at the bottom using a hammer and chisel
(obviously having undone the clamps before-hand . As for the other
joint, I think I'm going to try and open it up slightly at the top by
wedging something underneath and then after having applied some
protective tape to the laminate edge delicately run a sharp knife blade
down the join to severe the silicon. Then I'll carefully scrape away
the remnants from each edge. Finally it's the simple job of re-sealing
and re-clamping the joint How does this sound to people?

Thanks again
-Neil

btw. if anyone is thinking of getting worktops fitted in and around
Aylsebury get in touch with me so that I can warn you off the offending
fitters.

========================
I think you're being far too forgiving of this cowboy.

This job is a mess and I would suggest that you take a few more photos and
tell the fellow to remedy the work within 7 days or face the prospect of
being sued in the 'Small Claims' court.

Even if you're in a hurry to get the kitchen finished it would be worth
waiting a few days before you attempt any remedial action either personally
or by employing a more competent tradesman.

Cic.





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.
 
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Default professional kitchen worktop fitting

rookie wrote:
Well, I've spoken with the fitter and although he admits that the
joint is chipped he isn't prepared to do anything at all about it


call his bluff, take it to the small claims court:

https://www.moneyclaim.gov.uk/csmco2/index.jsp

/any/ reasonable man (or woman) would see that the labour
was substandard and not due to poor matriel and I'm sure that
everyone in this NG would support your claim.





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The Medway Handyman
 
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Default professional kitchen worktop fitting

Cicero wrote:

I think you're being far too forgiving of this cowboy.

This job is a mess and I would suggest that you take a few more
photos and tell the fellow to remedy the work within 7 days or face
the prospect of being sued in the 'Small Claims' court.


I think the only way to go is a letter saying he has 7 days to sort it, or
you will get the worktops replaced and the job done by someone else and sue
him for the cost.

I've used IKEA worktops and the quality is no different from any other
AFAICS. They cut the same, with no splinters at all.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257


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Chris Cowley
 
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On 11 Apr 2006 14:05:18 -0700, "rookie"
wrote:

Well, I've spoken with the fitter and although he admits that the joint
is chipped he isn't prepared to do anything at all about it - saying
that I'd seen the joint when he left and that the Ikea worktop was the
reason for the chipping (crap as he put it). He wasn't prepared to
return the worktops as I asked him to - I wonder why! Anyway, C'est la
vie! grr....


I think I would probably contact my local trading standards office in
those circumstances and ask them for advice. Even if the laminate on the
worktop was faulty (which I rather doubt, given everything else you've
written about this chap) I think anybody with the vaguest idea of
professional pride would at least hold their hands up and say "look, the
worktop was poorly constructed but I'm not going to charge for that" or
"I'll give you a heavy discount" or "let's contact Ikea and complain and
I'll try again with replacement worktops" or similar.

The fact he saw the frankly atrocious finish on the first cut and
ploughed on regardless is rather telling, I think.

Since I can't get new pieces re-cut elsewhere since it would involve a
different worktop jig (correct?),


I've never really thought about it before, but yes, I can imagine slight
differences in the peg thicknesses, hole positions, and jig dimensions
would make doing two halves of a joint with difference jigs rather a bad
idea.

btw. if anyone is thinking of getting worktops fitted in and around
Aylsebury get in touch with me so that I can warn you off the offending
fitters.


In a way, I admire your reservedness and calm acceptance of the
situation. But if it was me I would name and shame the cowboy here for
starters, were it will be archived on google along with your links to
the photographs of his handiwork. I would also consider seeking
recompense through the appropriate channels - if nothing else maybe it
will teach him to take some pride in his work in future.
--
Chris Cowley
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Michael Chare
 
Posts: n/a
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"rookie" wrote in message
ups.com...

I'm kicking myself as I paid the fitter £180 for the work (for 2
joints plus 2 cutouts)



Did you pay cash or is there a cheque which you could stop?

The quality of work looks poor. The splitering is much worse where the cut is
across the grain of the laminate. For that kind of money the fitter could have
used a new router blade.

The line looks very black. Is this colour of the inside of the laminate?

Can you reduce the visual impact with a little silver paint mixed with araldite?


--

Michael Chare




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Posted to uk.d-i-y
Chris Cowley
 
Posts: n/a
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On Wed, 12 Apr 2006 00:54:29 +0100, "Michael Chare"
wrote:

"rookie" wrote in message
oups.com...

I'm kicking myself as I paid the fitter £180 for the work (for 2
joints plus 2 cutouts)



Did you pay cash or is there a cheque which you could stop?

The quality of work looks poor. The splitering is much worse where the cut is
across the grain of the laminate. For that kind of money the fitter could have
used a new router blade.


I'd expect a professional kitchen fitter to use a brand new router bit
for each new job. I would if I was doing it myself, as the 20 quid TFT
bit I bought to do mine was looking decidedly tired after two 90deg
joins with associated bolt slots. I certainly would've been reluctant to
do a third join with it (although perhaps that has something to do with
the very cheap router I used?) - it was starting to smoke a bit.
--
Chris Cowley


  #16   Report Post  
Senior Member
 
Posts: 242
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rookie
After gutting my kitchen and doing the electrics, plumbing, plastering,
cabinet installation myself I weighed it up and decided it was worth
paying the money to have a professional fit my worktops. So I rang a
fitter advertised in the local paper (I wasn't able to get a
recommendation) and based on our conversation arranged for him to fit
worktops I'd already bought. They were fitted yesterday, but I'm far
from happy with the job. The mitred joints have a number of very minor
(such as 1x2mm) chips which to my eyes are really obvious, especially
since the worktops are a light grey colour and no seam fill was used in
the joint (just clear silicon).

The fitter did 2 joints (a u-shaped kitchen) and the latter is much
better than the first, although still not perfect. The latter joint I
told him to put some tape on the joint to try and avoid the chipping.
Unfortunately this was after a bad first attempt at it, so he ended up
taking 5mm off the length of the worktop and thus there's close to a
1cm gap at the end of the worktop where it ajoins the wall.

The fitter blames the chipping on the fact that they are cheap Ikea
worktops with an uncommon 'grained' surface. I'm thinking that it was
either an operator error with the router or a blunt router blade. What
do others think? Does anyone have any experience with cutting Ikea
worktops in general, or specifically the textured Aluminium effect
Numerar?

I'm kicking myself as I paid the fitter £180 for the work (for 2
joints plus 2 cutouts) yesterday as the joint didn't look too bad to my
eyes then. Also I agreed I'd apply some ColorFill seam filler and was
then happy that it would hide the chips. Now that I'm a bit more awake
today the joints look worse I'm not convinced the filler is going to
take and provide a long term solution befitting of the money spent on
the worktops and fitting. Does anyone have any experience with
repairing small chips with ColorFill?

Any general advice as to how to handle the situation would also be
appreciated.

For those interested photos available at:
http://www.geocities.com/neilbradburn/worktop/
Note: the coin in the picture is a 5p.

Thanks in advance for any input!

-Neil
That is unbelieveably shoddy. Ikea worktops are no different to any other and at £180 that is pure daylight robbery for that quality of workmanship. Looks like he was a DIY merchant masquerading as a pro IMHO!

I say name, shame and take him to the small claims court if he doesnt remedy the problem (even though this will probably involve new worktops)
  #17   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
.
 
Posts: n/a
Default professional kitchen worktop fitting

Chris Cowley wrote:
On Wed, 12 Apr 2006 00:54:29 +0100, "Michael Chare"
wrote:

"rookie" wrote in message
ups.com...

I'm kicking myself as I paid the fitter £180 for the work (for 2
joints plus 2 cutouts)



Did you pay cash or is there a cheque which you could stop?

The quality of work looks poor. The splitering is much worse where
the cut is across the grain of the laminate. For that kind of money
the fitter could have used a new router blade.


I'd expect a professional kitchen fitter to use a brand new router bit
for each new job. I would if I was doing it myself, as the 20 quid TFT
bit I bought to do mine was looking decidedly tired after two 90deg
joins with associated bolt slots. I certainly would've been reluctant
to
do a third join with it (although perhaps that has something to do
with
the very cheap router I used?) - it was starting to smoke a bit.


that's the glue starting to burn. you can clean the bits with a solvent
to prevent that happening but as you say, a new bit for every job
would not be unreasonable, especially at that price.


  #18   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Pete
 
Posts: n/a
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The Ikea excuse is no defence or Ikea would be out of business and you paid
him to know how to do the job properly.

Does he belong to any trade organisations. I'd ring trading standards and
see what they say. Small claims may be worth trying but I wonder if its
worth the hassle.

I did my own using an ordinary wood saw and a jig saw and filled any errors.
As its all black you have to look close to see the filling. Presumably the
edges aren't finally filled as even the good cut is clearly visible.

As for the short piece are you tiling round the worktop, mine had to be 2cm
small to get it in and the tiles covered the gap.


"rookie" wrote in message
ups.com...
After gutting my kitchen and doing the electrics, plumbing, plastering,
cabinet installation myself I weighed it up and decided it was worth
paying the money to have a professional fit my worktops. So I rang a
fitter advertised in the local paper (I wasn't able to get a
recommendation) and based on our conversation arranged for him to fit
worktops I'd already bought. They were fitted yesterday, but I'm far
from happy with the job. The mitred joints have a number of very minor
(such as 1x2mm) chips which to my eyes are really obvious, especially
since the worktops are a light grey colour and no seam fill was used in
the joint (just clear silicon).

The fitter did 2 joints (a u-shaped kitchen) and the latter is much
better than the first, although still not perfect. The latter joint I
told him to put some tape on the joint to try and avoid the chipping.
Unfortunately this was after a bad first attempt at it, so he ended up
taking 5mm off the length of the worktop and thus there's close to a
1cm gap at the end of the worktop where it ajoins the wall.

The fitter blames the chipping on the fact that they are cheap Ikea
worktops with an uncommon 'grained' surface. I'm thinking that it was
either an operator error with the router or a blunt router blade. What
do others think? Does anyone have any experience with cutting Ikea
worktops in general, or specifically the textured Aluminium effect
Numerar?

I'm kicking myself as I paid the fitter £180 for the work (for 2
joints plus 2 cutouts) yesterday as the joint didn't look too bad to my
eyes then. Also I agreed I'd apply some ColorFill seam filler and was
then happy that it would hide the chips. Now that I'm a bit more awake
today the joints look worse I'm not convinced the filler is going to
take and provide a long term solution befitting of the money spent on
the worktops and fitting. Does anyone have any experience with
repairing small chips with ColorFill?

Any general advice as to how to handle the situation would also be
appreciated.

For those interested photos available at:
http://www.geocities.com/neilbradburn/worktop/
Note: the coin in the picture is a 5p.

Thanks in advance for any input!

-Neil


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Chris Cowley
 
Posts: n/a
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On Wed, 12 Apr 2006 08:25:36 GMT, "." wrote:

Chris Cowley wrote:

I'd expect a professional kitchen fitter to use a brand new router bit
for each new job. I would if I was doing it myself, as the 20 quid TFT
bit I bought to do mine was looking decidedly tired after two 90deg
joins with associated bolt slots. I certainly would've been reluctant
to
do a third join with it (although perhaps that has something to do
with
the very cheap router I used?) - it was starting to smoke a bit.


that's the glue starting to burn. you can clean the bits with a solvent
to prevent that happening but as you say, a new bit for every job
would not be unreasonable, especially at that price.


Thanks for tip. I'll try cleaning the bit before I use it again (I'm
sure it'll come in handy for something, even if I don't do any more
worktops with it).

--
Chris Cowley
  #20   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
rookie
 
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The Medway Handyman wrote:
Cicero wrote:
I think you're being far too forgiving of this cowboy.


This job is a mess and I would suggest that you take a few more
photos and tell the fellow to remedy the work within 7 days or face
the prospect of being sued in the 'Small Claims' court.


I think the only way to go is a letter saying he has 7 days to sort it, or
you will get the worktops replaced and the job done by someone else and sue
him for the cost.

I've used IKEA worktops and the quality is no different from any other
AFAICS. They cut the same, with no splinters at all.


I was all prepared to cut my losses and attempt to repair the botch
myself. However based all the comments about the quality of the work
and your experiences with Ikea worktops I've rethought matters and have
sent a 'letter before action' to him informing him I'll take county
court action against him if he doesn't put the worktops right
(effectively replacing and cutting with a new blade) or give me back
the £180 plus compensation for the now useless worktops within 7 days.
Before doing so I contacted Ikea about the specific worktop in question
and they said it was a big seller (which means really big if Ikea say
that) and they'd not had any returns due to chipped mitres.

-Neil



  #21   Report Post  
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rookie
 
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Chris Cowley wrote:
I think I would probably contact my local trading standards office in
those circumstances and ask them for advice. Even if the laminate on the
worktop was faulty (which I rather doubt, given everything else you've
written about this chap) I think anybody with the vaguest idea of
professional pride would at least hold their hands up and say "look, the
worktop was poorly constructed but I'm not going to charge for that" or
"I'll give you a heavy discount" or "let's contact Ikea and complain and
I'll try again with replacement worktops" or similar.


I spoke to an adviser from the local CAB today and they suggested that
I tell him I'll take him to county court if the matter isn't addressed
satisfactorily in 7days, which is what I did today. Based on a perusal
of Trading Standards website I don't think they can give me any more
assistance that the CAB.

In a way, I admire your reservedness and calm acceptance of the
situation. But if it was me I would name and shame the cowboy here for
starters, were it will be archived on google along with your links to
the photographs of his handiwork. I would also consider seeking
recompense through the appropriate channels - if nothing else maybe it
will teach him to take some pride in his work in future


It's a difficult one. I don't want to aggravate him too much at this
stage, in case his moral side is some how triggered by a letter I've
sent him However, I agree that in the long term the trader's name
should be archived for others to give a wide birth. I'll look at doing
it at a later stage.

Thanks
-Neil

  #22   Report Post  
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rookie
 
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Michael Chare wrote:
Did you pay cash or is there a cheque which you could stop?


I was stupid enough to meet his request for the former


The quality of work looks poor. The splitering is much worse where the cut is
across the grain of the laminate. For that kind of money the fitter could have
used a new router blade.


The fitter said he's cut thousands of worktops in the past (non-IKEA
ones) without chipping issues. It seems like cutting across the grain
means the ikea worktops are less tollerant of a blunt blade than
un-textured ones, and he's be getting away with sloppy penny pinching
practice for some time.


The line looks very black. Is this colour of the inside of the laminate?

Can you reduce the visual impact with a little silver paint mixed with araldite?


Would you expect that to adhese to silicon sealant? If so I'll keep it
in my armoury of things to try if my court action direction goes
nowhere.

Thanks
-Neil

  #24   Report Post  
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Chris Cowley
 
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On 12 Apr 2006 10:43:37 -0700, "rookie"
wrote:

It's a difficult one. I don't want to aggravate him too much at this
stage, in case his moral side is some how triggered by a letter I've
sent him However, I agree that in the long term the trader's name
should be archived for others to give a wide birth. I'll look at doing
it at a later stage.


That's a fair point. With hindsight, I think you're being very
reasonable in giving him every chance to rectify the problem. I hope you
manage to appeal to his better nature and get the right result in the
end without having to go through a small claims court, etc.
--
Chris Cowley
  #25   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
HandyMart
 
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rookie wrote:

Michael Chare wrote:


Did you pay cash or is there a cheque which you could stop?



I was stupid enough to meet his request for the former



Which means it went straight into his pocket. He is probably in the
habit of asking for cash and does not intend to declare it to the
Revenue. You might suggest to him that you could contact them on his
behalf? I'm sure he will have seen the recent advertising campaign.



  #26   Report Post  
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rookie
 
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HandyMart wrote:
rookie wrote:
Michael Chare wrote:


Did you pay cash or is there a cheque which you could stop?


I was stupid enough to meet his request for the former


Which means it went straight into his pocket. He is probably in the
habit of asking for cash and does not intend to declare it to the
Revenue. You might suggest to him that you could contact them on his
behalf? I'm sure he will have seen the recent advertising campaign.


I too suspect he won't declare it, or not the full amount anyway. As
for mentioning it to him, I now don't see the threat improving my
chances of him rectifying his shoddy work, plus it would give the game
away and allow him to declare it

  #27   Report Post  
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The Medway Handyman
 
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rookie wrote:

I too suspect he won't declare it, or not the full amount anyway. As
for mentioning it to him, I now don't see the threat improving my
chances of him rectifying his shoddy work, plus it would give the game
away and allow him to declare it


I often ask for & get paid in cash and I do declare it. I simply prefer
cash because it 'clears' instantly allowing me access to the funds straight
away. Why it still takes 4 working days to clear a cheque in the year 2006
is beyond me.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257


  #28   Report Post  
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John
 
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"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
. uk...
rookie wrote:

I too suspect he won't declare it, or not the full amount anyway. As
for mentioning it to him, I now don't see the threat improving my
chances of him rectifying his shoddy work, plus it would give the game
away and allow him to declare it


I often ask for & get paid in cash and I do declare it. I simply prefer
cash because it 'clears' instantly allowing me access to the funds
straight away. Why it still takes 4 working days to clear a cheque in the
year 2006 is beyond me.


Just in case you really want to know....

https://www.marketplace.lloydstsb.co...chema=PORTAL30

HTH

John


  #29   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
tony sayer
 
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In article , John
writes

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
.uk...
rookie wrote:

I too suspect he won't declare it, or not the full amount anyway. As
for mentioning it to him, I now don't see the threat improving my
chances of him rectifying his shoddy work, plus it would give the game
away and allow him to declare it


I often ask for & get paid in cash and I do declare it. I simply prefer
cash because it 'clears' instantly allowing me access to the funds
straight away. Why it still takes 4 working days to clear a cheque in the
year 2006 is beyond me.


Just in case you really want to know....

https://www.marketplace.lloydstsb.co...d=portal30&_sc
hema=PORTAL30

HTH

John


Fine olde world way of doing that isn't it. So why can't they scan the
cheque when its paid in, and transact with the paying bank for there and
then authorisation?......
--
Tony Sayer

  #30   Report Post  
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Guy King
 
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The message
from tony sayer contains these words:

Fine olde world way of doing that isn't it. So why can't they scan the
cheque when its paid in, and transact with the paying bank for there and
then authorisation?......


Because then they couldn't steal your credit for a day or two and make a
killing off the interest.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.


  #31   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
 
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rookie wrote:
Pete wrote:

Does he belong to any trade organisations. I'd ring trading standards and
see what they say.


He's not a member of any trade associations (or so he says). Not sure
what TS can do for me as I've been in touch with the local CAB. I'll
give them a ring however as you're the second person who suggested
contacting them.

I did my own using an ordinary wood saw and a jig saw and filled any errors.
As its all black you have to look close to see the filling. Presumably the
edges aren't finally filled as even the good cut is clearly visible.


Sorry, I didn't show the 'good' cut, just different abstractions of the
poor one. What do you mean by finally filled?

As for the short piece are you tiling round the worktop, mine had to be 2cm
small to get it in and the tiles covered the gap.


2cm is quite an impressive gap to have covered! I know I can get away
with 1cm by tiling, but I'm just annoyed as I wanted to avoid as much
tiling as possible (on cost and time grounds).

Thanks
-Neil


You live and you learn! ;-)

Looks like this guy stumbled on a quick money maker - get a router and
go around cutting worktops. He is probably also running boot sales on
the weekend and knocking out copy DVDs down the pub.

5 years back I need to have a worktop cut, my father found a guy (think
it was yellow pages) who offered this service for £90 - nothing else
in the ad, just a worktop cutting service on site. In the end I just
bought a DeWalt router and a jig and did it myself. yes, it cost me
more but the finish is perfect. I'm glad I did.

One thing that is very important when it comes to using new tradesmen
is not to get too friendly. Be polite but don't get into small talk.
The bodgers and conmen always use this to their advantage.

  #32   Report Post  
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Stuart Noble
 
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The Medway Handyman wrote:

I often ask for & get paid in cash and I do declare it.


Therein lies madness

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