Andy Hall wrote:
On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 17:05:34 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:


Matt wrote:

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 14:37:18 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:



So I suppose the question is, will one of the Fein attachments cut
through a 3/4" floorboard (albeit only in one place) to allow you to get
a padsaw started? I imagine they would publicise it like crazy if it
were possible


If you use the Multimaster there is no need to use a padsaw. For both
the cross cut and for removing the tongue if necessary the 65mm wide
blade works just fine. There is no damage to any adjoining boards and
you can even cut right up to a skirting board without damaging the
paint if you use a slight angle on the cut. I've used it on 3/4 oak
boards no problem.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...ile=1&j ump=8




Maybe I'll e-mail Santa then



The segmented and segmented/depressed blades are also very effective
in this and other applications.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...=19593&recno=8



You've almost convinced me.......

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:

Probably because it never occurred to you? I picked it up from a very
experience plumber. And haveing previously used all the other methods
described here have never used any other way since. It's simply the
easiest.


I *did* try your method, and the problem I found was that because the
saw's stroke is far longer than the thickness you're trying to cut, the
length of the blade is almost immaterial. The saw just bounced about and
showed signs of distress.


I'm not quite sure what you mean. You snap the blade so the length is the
thickness of the board at the bottom of the stroke. Make sure you break it
so there's a tooth just above the break. You then start with the jigsaw
near horizontal and slowly but firmly rotate to the vertical position then
proceed as normal, keeping a firm downward pressure. It's one of those
jobs where you mustn't be scared of it.


Ok. I'll give it another try

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) through a haze of senile flatulence wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:

Probably because it never occurred to you? I picked it up from a very
experience plumber. And haveing previously used all the other methods
described here have never used any other way since. It's simply the
easiest.

I *did* try your method, and the problem I found was that because the
saw's stroke is far longer than the thickness you're trying to cut, the
length of the blade is almost immaterial. The saw just bounced about and
showed signs of distress.

I'm not quite sure what you mean. You snap the blade so the length is
the
thickness of the board at the bottom of the stroke. Make sure you break
it
so there's a tooth just above the break. You then start with the jigsaw
near horizontal and slowly but firmly rotate to the vertical position
then
proceed as normal, keeping a firm downward pressure. It's one of those
jobs where you mustn't be scared of it.

Ok. I'll give it another try

Do you want to kill yourself?

Doctor Drivel wrote:

I'm not quite sure what you mean. You snap the blade so the length is

the

thickness of the board at the bottom of the stroke. Make sure you break

it

so there's a tooth just above the break. You then start with the jigsaw
near horizontal and slowly but firmly rotate to the vertical position

then

proceed as normal, keeping a firm downward pressure. It's one of those
jobs where you mustn't be scared of it.

Ok. I'll give it another try


Do you want to kill yourself?


Man killed by jigsaw? I don't think so.
I still have doubts about the procedure. Given the length of the blade
will now be 1" instead of 3", it follows that two thirds of the time it
won't be in contact with the material it's cutting

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

I'm not quite sure what you mean. You snap the blade so the length is

the

thickness of the board at the bottom of the stroke. Make sure you break

it

so there's a tooth just above the break. You then start with the jigsaw
near horizontal and slowly but firmly rotate to the vertical position

then

proceed as normal, keeping a firm downward pressure. It's one of those
jobs where you mustn't be scared of it.

Ok. I'll give it another try


Do you want to kill yourself?

Man killed by jigsaw? I don't think so.

Remove digits then.

I still have doubts about the procedure. Given the length of the blade
will now be 1" instead of 3", it follows that two thirds of the time it
won't be in contact with the material it's cutting

I removed T&G tongue by using a Rotothingy. To keep it in the gap between
the boards, I temporarily screwed a straight baton to the boards. Put the
roto in the tongue (you can drill down with them), fix the baton with one
screw, move to other end of baton, insert roto, slap baton to roto, fix
screw and a nice clean guide. The depth can be set with most of them.
Crisp and clean. The Roto can cut boards in the centre of a joist too. Far
cheaper than Multithjingy; I saw one for £17 in Argos. B&Q sell a meaty one
for around £50. Screwfix for £31.

I have cut hols in tiles, and the wall behind, for electrical boxes (paid
for itself in this job alone) . I have also remove tiles by cutting away
the grout and some plaster around the tiles. They then just fell away with
some prising.

It is a tool that occasionally become "very" useful when you know what it
can do and apply it properly. And not silly money to buy

In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
I still have doubts about the procedure. Given the length of the blade
will now be 1" instead of 3", it follows that two thirds of the time it
won't be in contact with the material it's cutting

Get a bit of scrap wood rather thicker than the depth of cut of a complete
blade. Saw into this. You'll find it's perfectly possible. Just let the
saw do the work, but keep a firm downwards pressure.

--
*I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
I still have doubts about the procedure. Given the length of the blade
will now be 1" instead of 3", it follows that two thirds of the time it
won't be in contact with the material it's cutting

I removed T&G tongue by using a Rotothingy.

Most will already have a jigsaw. It's the next most common electric tool
after a drill. And jigsaw blades are rather less than 'rotothingy' ones
and far less prone to breaking.

I'm surprised you suggest buying a tool specially for a job after the
incident with the plastic pipe and hacksaw - and the bile you spewed after
being told by the makers to use the correct tool. And a 'rotothingy' isn't
the right one for that either.

--
*I have plenty of talent and vision. I just don't care.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

I still have doubts about the procedure. Given the length of the blade
will now be 1" instead of 3", it follows that two thirds of the time
it
won't be in contact with the material it's cutting

I removed T&G tongue by using a Rotothingy.

Most

** snip senile babble **

He want people use broken tools.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:

I still have doubts about the procedure. Given the length of the blade
will now be 1" instead of 3", it follows that two thirds of the time it
won't be in contact with the material it's cutting

Get a bit of scrap wood

he is sill on about using broken dangerous tools

** senile babble **

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
He want people use broken tools.

He speak with forked tongue.

--
*Gravity is a myth, the earth sucks *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Get a bit of scrap wood

he is sill on about using broken dangerous tools

He still speak with forked tongue...

Wonder what your first language is, dribble? Apart from that, obviously.
Zog?

--
*Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:

I still have doubts about the procedure. Given the length of the blade
will now be 1" instead of 3", it follows that two thirds of the time it
won't be in contact with the material it's cutting


Get a bit of scrap wood rather thicker than the depth of cut of a complete
blade. Saw into this. You'll find it's perfectly possible. Just let the
saw do the work, but keep a firm downwards pressure.


Hm. Getting more complicated, and a third of the blade will then have to
do a full depth cut.
I will give it a go next time I have the misfortune to need to cut a
board. I bloody hate it, particularly in other peoples' houses where
you're likely to cop a load of trouble through no fault of your own. I
seem to hear that hissing noise, even when I know there aren't any pipes
there.

Doctor Drivel wrote:

I removed T&G tongue by using a Rotothingy. To keep it in the gap between
the boards, I temporarily screwed a straight baton to the boards. Put the
roto in the tongue (you can drill down with them), fix the baton with one
screw, move to other end of baton, insert roto, slap baton to roto, fix
screw and a nice clean guide. The depth can be set with most of them.
Crisp and clean. The Roto can cut boards in the centre of a joist too. Far
cheaper than Multithjingy; I saw one for £17 in Argos. B&Q sell a meaty one
for around £50. Screwfix for £31.

I have cut hols in tiles, and the wall behind, for electrical boxes (paid
for itself in this job alone) . I have also remove tiles by cutting away
the grout and some plaster around the tiles. They then just fell away with
some prising.

It is a tool that occasionally become "very" useful when you know what it
can do and apply it properly. And not silly money to buy

But the cut is too wide. I've got an old Stanley router with a 3mm
straight cutter that I've used in a similar way, but it's not ideal.

In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
Hm. Getting more complicated, and a third of the blade will then have to
do a full depth cut.
I will give it a go next time I have the misfortune to need to cut a
board. I bloody hate it, particularly in other peoples' houses where
you're likely to cop a load of trouble through no fault of your own. I
seem to hear that hissing noise, even when I know there aren't any pipes
there.

That's why I like this way - it just can't cut any deeper than the
thickness of the board if you size the blade correctly.

--
*I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:

Hm. Getting more complicated, and a third of the blade will then have to
do a full depth cut.
I will give it a go next time I have the misfortune to need to cut a
board. I bloody hate it, particularly in other peoples' houses where
you're likely to cop a load of trouble through no fault of your own. I
seem to hear that hissing noise, even when I know there aren't any pipes
there.

That's why I like this way - it just can't cut any deeper than the
thickness of the board if you size the blade correctly.

Absolute madness.

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:

I still have doubts about the procedure. Given the length of the blade
will now be 1" instead of 3", it follows that two thirds of the time it
won't be in contact with the material it's cutting


Get a bit of scrap wood rather thicker than the depth of cut of a
complete
blade. Saw into this. You'll find it's perfectly possible. Just let the
saw do the work, but keep a firm downwards pressure.


Hm. Getting more complicated,

Please take no notice of him if you want to keep your fingers.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
He want people use broken tools.

He speak with forked tongue.

Oh No! He thinks he's Tonto now.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Get a bit of scrap wood

he is sill on about using broken dangerous tools

He still speak with forked tongue...

This is bad. He actually thinks he is Jay Silverheels.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
That's why I like this way - it just can't cut any deeper than the
thickness of the board if you size the blade correctly.

Absolute madness.

Please stop talking about yourself and seek treatment.

--
*There's two theories to arguing with a woman. Neither one works *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

That's why I like this way - it just can't cut any deeper than the
thickness of the board if you size the blade correctly.

Absolute madness.

Please

Absolute madness.