"Chris Bacon" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) through a haze of senile flatulence wrote:
[ lifting floorboards ]

I'm sticking with the broken jigsaw blade. They're cheap and have no
real
disadvantages.

In a disposable machine, maybe - but they give the gears in the jigsaw
a real hammering. I have seen 'em splinter!

I know. This senile man is a walking disaster area.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
It would be more amazing if you actually said what you'd bought.

Er, er tools..

Always suspected the only one you knew the name of was a hacksaw.

We could all do with a laugh on a bleak day like this.

You laugh at tools?

Yes, I laugh at you.

I believe there is a drug being developed

Researching drugs now? Is that why you call yourself Dr? Thank gawd you're
not allowed to prescribe such things. Even Shipman would be turning in his
grave.

--
*On the other hand, you have different fingers.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Chris Bacon wrote:
I'm sticking with the broken jigsaw blade. They're cheap and have no
real disadvantages.

In a disposable machine, maybe - but they give the gears in the jigsaw
a real hammering. I have seen 'em splinter!

Not if you're careful when pivoting it down. I've been doing it for many
years - first with a really cheap B&D. It's still going.

--
*Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
In a disposable machine, maybe - but they give the gears in the jigsaw
a real hammering. I have seen 'em splinter!

I know. This senile man is a walking disaster area.

But surely you're the expert on disposable tools? If you break it you
simply take it back to B&Q for their 3 year warranty?

But then I doubt you've ever lifted a floorboard. One bedroom council
flats have concrete floors.

--
*Where there's a will, I want to be in it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
says...
snip
The snag with using a circular saw is that it will cut well into the
boards either side. The jigsaw method doesn't.

Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a wood
chisel.

Also, I'd not much be
worried about a jigsaw blade hitting a nail - but rather unhappy if it
happened with a 30 quid tipped blade.

Why? TCT blades go straight through nails and screws.

Rob Morley wrote:
dave writes:
The snag with using a circular saw is that it will cut well into the
boards either side. The jigsaw method doesn't.

Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a wood
chisel.

Dunno how you're going to get a clean cut with a chisel
down a saw cut.

In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
The snag with using a circular saw is that it will cut well into the
boards either side. The jigsaw method doesn't.

Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a wood
chisel.

Sounds a dreadful bodge to me - and what happens if there are pipes etc
beneath? Just *try* the broken jigsaw blade method - you'll never use
anything else.

Also, I'd not much be
worried about a jigsaw blade hitting a nail - but rather unhappy if it
happened with a 30 quid tipped blade.

Why? TCT blades go straight through nails and screws.

Through modern hardened screws? I somehow doubt it.

--
*When companies ship Styrofoam, what do they pack it in? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
It would be more amazing if you actually said what you'd bought.

Er, er tools..

Always suspected

....this senile man is clearly mad
....That's clearly mad not just a tad
....he's clearly all the way
...."confusion in a derranged mind", the experts had to say
....he spouts aloud
....this is so sad
....praising God is his latest fad
....walking down the High St, this man is to be seen
....in flashers mack, "the end is nigh", he gives a constant scream

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ,
Chris Bacon wrote:
I'm sticking with the broken jigsaw blade. They're cheap and have no
real disadvantages.

In a disposable machine, maybe - but they give the gears in the jigsaw
a real hammering. I have seen 'em splinter!

Not if you're careful when pivoting

Oh no!! This senile one is still using broken tools.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
In a disposable machine, maybe - but they give the gears in the jigsaw
a real hammering. I have seen 'em splinter!

I know. This senile man is a walking disaster area.

But surely

he is attempting to justify cowboyness.

** snip senility **

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
The snag with using a circular saw is that it will cut well into the
boards either side. The jigsaw method doesn't.

Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a wood
chisel.

Sounds a dreadful bodge to me

...and he uses broken tools

Just *try* the broken jigsaw blade method

There he goes again.

** snip senility **

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
...this senile man is clearly mad
...That's clearly mad not just a tad

[snip for the sake of everyone's sanity]

Medication late again dribble? Perhaps you should ask for a change of
prescription. It doesn't appear to be working - the 'poetry' disease is
getting worse...

--
*When I'm not in my right mind, my left mind gets pretty crowded *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
The snag with using a circular saw is that it will cut well into the
boards either side. The jigsaw method doesn't.

Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a wood
chisel.

Sounds a dreadful bodge to me - and what happens if there are pipes etc
beneath? Just *try* the broken jigsaw blade method - you'll never use
anything else.

Definitely a marketing problem here... maybe you should re-brand it as
the "meticulously and precisely shortened jigsaw blade method", and then
sell special blades at hi-fi prices.


--
Ian White

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

...this senile man is clearly mad
...That's clearly mad not just a tad

more ramblings from the senile one.

** snip senility **

"Ian White" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
The snag with using a circular saw is that it will cut well into the
boards either side. The jigsaw method doesn't.

Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a wood
chisel.

Sounds a dreadful bodge to me - and what happens if there are pipes etc
beneath? Just *try* the broken jigsaw blade method - you'll never use
anything else.

Definitely a marketing problem here... maybe you should re-brand it as
the "meticulously and precisely shortened jigsaw blade method", and then
sell special blades at hi-fi prices.

The home will not allow him.

In article ,
says...
Rob Morley wrote:
dave writes:
The snag with using a circular saw is that it will cut well into the
boards either side. The jigsaw method doesn't.

Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a wood
chisel.

Dunno how you're going to get a clean cut with a chisel
down a saw cut.

Sharp chisel, wide kerf. Alternately cut a little down each side,
clearing the chips as you go. A sharp Stanley knife will also do the
job but doesn't chip out the waste so well, so you have to scrape it
out.

In article ,
says...
In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
The snag with using a circular saw is that it will cut well into the
boards either side. The jigsaw method doesn't.

Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a wood
chisel.

Sounds a dreadful bodge to me

Why?

- and what happens if there are pipes etc beneath?

What do you think would happen?

Just *try* the broken jigsaw blade method - you'll never use
anything else.

I've never felt the need to try it - maybe I will some time.

Also, I'd not much be
worried about a jigsaw blade hitting a nail - but rather unhappy if it
happened with a 30 quid tipped blade.

Why? TCT blades go straight through nails and screws.

Through modern hardened screws?

I forgot about them - probably not too good on the blade.

In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
Dunno how you're going to get a clean cut with a chisel
down a saw cut.

Sharp chisel, wide kerf. Alternately cut a little down each side,
clearing the chips as you go. A sharp Stanley knife will also do the
job but doesn't chip out the waste so well, so you have to scrape it
out.

Still sounds like a lot more work than snapping off a jigsaw blade. ;-)

--
*When blondes have more fun, do they know it?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a
wood chisel.

Sounds a dreadful bodge to me

Why?

Well, unless you've got a very small circular saw only the middle of the
board will be cut to the correct depth - the edges will be more or less
untouched. So you've got to chisel through perhaps the majority of the
board.

- and what happens if there are pipes etc beneath?

What do you think would happen?

You could easily punch through a pipe. Also if the board is unsupported
because of the notch cut for the pipe, chiselling across the grain will
simply break chunks off the board.

Just *try* the broken jigsaw blade method - you'll never use
anything else.

I've never felt the need to try it - maybe I will some time.

Probably because it never occurred to you? I picked it up from a very
experience plumber. And haveing previously used all the other methods
described here have never used any other way since. It's simply the
easiest.

Also, I'd not much be worried about a jigsaw blade hitting a nail
- but rather unhappy if it happened with a 30 quid tipped blade.

Why? TCT blades go straight through nails and screws.

Through modern hardened screws?

I forgot about them - probably not too good on the blade.

The first TCT tipped blade I bought cost almost as much as the saw, so
I've tended to be careful with them. ;-)

--
*Some days we are the flies; some days we are the windscreen.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:

Dunno how you're going to get a clean cut with a chisel
down a saw cut.

Sharp chisel, wide kerf. Alternately cut a little down each side,
clearing the chips as you go. A sharp Stanley knife will also do the
job but doesn't chip out the waste so well, so you have to scrape it
out.

Still sounds like a lot more work than snapping off a jigsaw blade.

My God he is breaking and using blades as usual. This man is dangerous.
Please no one take any notice of him.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Still sounds like a lot more work than snapping off a jigsaw blade.

My God he is breaking and using blades as usual. This man is dangerous.
Please no one take any notice of him.

Remind us again how you cut a plastic pipe with a hacksaw so the push in
fitting leaked and flooded the house? Once you understand what tools do
and how to use them your advice to others might have some weight.

Until then stick to quoting - and believing - makers adverts.

--
*Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Still sounds like a lot more work than snapping off a jigsaw blade.

My God he is breaking and using blades as usual. This man is dangerous.
Please no one take any notice of him.

Remind

** snip rampant senility. Very sad **

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 09:07:29 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
Dunno how you're going to get a clean cut with a chisel
down a saw cut.

Sharp chisel, wide kerf. Alternately cut a little down each side,
clearing the chips as you go. A sharp Stanley knife will also do the
job but doesn't chip out the waste so well, so you have to scrape it
out.

Still sounds like a lot more work than snapping off a jigsaw blade. ;-)

Snapping off a jigsaw blade and smooting off the sharp edges is a lot
more work than using the multimaster :-)


--

"Matt" aka Lord Hall wrote in message
...
On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 09:07:29 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
through haze of senile flatulence wrote:

In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
Dunno how you're going to get a clean cut with a chisel
down a saw cut.

Sharp chisel, wide kerf. Alternately cut a little down each side,
clearing the chips as you go. A sharp Stanley knife will also do the
job but doesn't chip out the waste so well, so you have to scrape it
out.

Still sounds like a lot more work than snapping off a jigsaw blade. ;-)

The above is botty talk.

Snapping off a jigsaw blade and smooting off the sharp edges is a lot
more work than using the multimaster :-)

Lord Hall, and infinitely safer.

In article ,
Matt wrote:
Still sounds like a lot more work than snapping off a jigsaw blade. ;-)

Snapping off a jigsaw blade and smooting off the sharp edges is a lot
more work than using the multimaster :-)

Might be - although I've never bothered grinding the edges. And it's just
that most DIYers will have a jigsaw, but not so the multimaster.

--
*Why is 'abbreviation' such a long word?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Rob Morley wrote:
In article ,
says...

In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:

The snag with using a circular saw is that it will cut well into the
boards either side. The jigsaw method doesn't.

Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a wood
chisel.

Sounds a dreadful bodge to me


Why?


- and what happens if there are pipes etc beneath?


What do you think would happen?


Just *try* the broken jigsaw blade method - you'll never use
anything else.


I've never felt the need to try it - maybe I will some time.

Also, I'd not much be
worried about a jigsaw blade hitting a nail - but rather unhappy if it
happened with a 30 quid tipped blade.


Why? TCT blades go straight through nails and screws.

Through modern hardened screws?


I forgot about them - probably not too good on the blade.

IME if the fixing is inside the wood, TCT will go through most without
complaining. But if it hits a part of the fixing that's not surrounded
by solid material (nail head or whatever), there is a fair chance of
losing a tooth or two.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Just *try* the broken jigsaw blade method - you'll never use
anything else.


I've never felt the need to try it - maybe I will some time.


Probably because it never occurred to you? I picked it up from a very
experience plumber. And haveing previously used all the other methods
described here have never used any other way since. It's simply the
easiest.

I *did* try your method, and the problem I found was that because the
saw's stroke is far longer than the thickness you're trying to cut, the
length of the blade is almost immaterial. The saw just bounced about and
showed signs of distress.
These days I always cut next to the joist with a padsaw and screw a
length of 2 x 1 to it to support the board, but even that cut is a pain
to get started. Jigsaws don't plunge well and anything else leaves 3mm
kerf.
So I suppose the question is, will one of the Fein attachments cut
through a 3/4" floorboard (albeit only in one place) to allow you to get
a padsaw started? I imagine they would publicise it like crazy if it
were possible

Matt wrote:
On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 09:07:29 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:


In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:

Dunno how you're going to get a clean cut with a chisel
down a saw cut.


Sharp chisel, wide kerf. Alternately cut a little down each side,
clearing the chips as you go. A sharp Stanley knife will also do the
job but doesn't chip out the waste so well, so you have to scrape it
out.

Still sounds like a lot more work than snapping off a jigsaw blade. ;-)


Snapping off a jigsaw blade and smooting off the sharp edges is a lot
more work than using the multimaster :-)



How is this done with a MM? IME small blades on wood have trouble
clearing themselves unless they're on a router

Stuart Noble wrote:
Jigsaws don't plunge well

Take pendulum action off. It's quite easy to cut floorboards in
this manner with a jigsaw. Much better than cutting a huge wide
slot in the board, or splintering it to bits, too. A little
practice first, if necessary...

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Just *try* the broken jigsaw blade method - you'll never use
anything else.


I've never felt the need to try it - maybe I will some time.


Probably because it never occurred to you? I picked it up from a very
experience plumber. And haveing previously used all the other methods
described here have never used any other way since. It's simply the
easiest.

I *did* try your method, and the problem I found was that because the
saw's stroke is far longer than the thickness you're trying to cut, the
length of the blade is almost immaterial. The saw just bounced about and
showed signs of distress.

Of course it would. This senile man is a walking disaster area. Please, no
one take any notice of him.

These days I always cut next to the joist with a padsaw and screw a
length of 2 x 1 to it to support the board, but even that cut is a pain
to get started.

Fillets are not good. Try using a Rotothingy across the joist. The depth
can be ser.. They now very cheap. I saw one for £17 in Aldi.

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 14:37:18 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

So I suppose the question is, will one of the Fein attachments cut
through a 3/4" floorboard (albeit only in one place) to allow you to get
a padsaw started? I imagine they would publicise it like crazy if it
were possible

If you use the Multimaster there is no need to use a padsaw. For both
the cross cut and for removing the tongue if necessary the 65mm wide
blade works just fine. There is no damage to any adjoining boards and
you can even cut right up to a skirting board without damaging the
paint if you use a slight angle on the cut. I've used it on 3/4 oak
boards no problem.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...ile=1&j ump=8



--

In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
Probably because it never occurred to you? I picked it up from a very
experience plumber. And haveing previously used all the other methods
described here have never used any other way since. It's simply the
easiest.

I *did* try your method, and the problem I found was that because the
saw's stroke is far longer than the thickness you're trying to cut, the
length of the blade is almost immaterial. The saw just bounced about and
showed signs of distress.

I'm not quite sure what you mean. You snap the blade so the length is the
thickness of the board at the bottom of the stroke. Make sure you break it
so there's a tooth just above the break. You then start with the jigsaw
near horizontal and slowly but firmly rotate to the vertical position then
proceed as normal, keeping a firm downward pressure. It's one of those
jobs where you mustn't be scared of it.

--
*If a thing is worth doing, wouldn't it have been done already?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Fillets are not good. Try using a Rotothingy across the joist. The
depth can be ser.. They now very cheap. I saw one for £17 in Aldi.

Since you obviously never use tools price is the only consideration?

The 'rotothingy' will make far to wide a cut compared to a jigsaw. Not
that you'd care.

--
*A conscience is what hurts when all your other parts feel so good *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Matt wrote:
On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 14:37:18 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:


So I suppose the question is, will one of the Fein attachments cut
through a 3/4" floorboard (albeit only in one place) to allow you to get
a padsaw started? I imagine they would publicise it like crazy if it
were possible


If you use the Multimaster there is no need to use a padsaw. For both
the cross cut and for removing the tongue if necessary the 65mm wide
blade works just fine. There is no damage to any adjoining boards and
you can even cut right up to a skirting board without damaging the
paint if you use a slight angle on the cut. I've used it on 3/4 oak
boards no problem.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...ile=1&j ump=8




Maybe I'll e-mail Santa then

"Dave Plowman (News)" through haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Fillets are not good. Try using a Rotothingy across the joist. The
depth can be ser.. They now very cheap. I saw one for £17 in Aldi.

Since you

** snip dangerous senile jig saw suggestions **

In article ,
says...
In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a
wood chisel.

Sounds a dreadful bodge to me

Why?

Well, unless you've got a very small circular saw

or wide boards

only the middle of the
board will be cut to the correct depth - the edges will be more or less
untouched. So you've got to chisel through perhaps the majority of the
board.

True

- and what happens if there are pipes etc beneath?

What do you think would happen?

You could easily punch through a pipe.

If you're complete klutz.

Also if the board is unsupported
because of the notch cut for the pipe, chiselling across the grain will
simply break chunks off the board.

With a blunt chisel, brute force and ignorance.

Just *try* the broken jigsaw blade method - you'll never use
anything else.

I've never felt the need to try it - maybe I will some time.

Probably because it never occurred to you? I picked it up from a very
experience plumber. And haveing previously used all the other methods
described here have never used any other way since. It's simply the
easiest.

I've seen the mess that plumbers make of decent wooden floors.


Also, I'd not much be worried about a jigsaw blade hitting a nail
- but rather unhappy if it happened with a 30 quid tipped blade.

Why? TCT blades go straight through nails and screws.

Through modern hardened screws?

I forgot about them - probably not too good on the blade.

The first TCT tipped blade I bought cost almost as much as the saw, so
I've tended to be careful with them. ;-)

I bought a saw with two TCT blades for less than the total cost of one
decent blade (and everything still works fine after several years) - I'm
not so worried about it :-)

In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
Also if the board is unsupported
because of the notch cut for the pipe, chiselling across the grain will
simply break chunks off the board.

With a blunt chisel, brute force and ignorance.

Don't care how sharp the chisel is - cutting against the grain like this
will cause damage if not supported.

--
*Everyone has a photographic memory. Some don't have film *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
t...
In article ,
says...
In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
Cut as far as you can with a circular saw, then finish off with a
wood chisel.

Sounds a dreadful bodge to me

Why?

Well, unless you've got a very small circular saw

or wide boards

only the middle of the
board will be cut to the correct depth - the edges will be more or less
untouched. So you've got to chisel through perhaps the majority of the
board.

True

- and what happens if there are pipes etc beneath?

What do you think would happen?

You could easily punch through a pipe.

If you're complete klutz.

You have only just found that out?

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 14:42:55 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Matt wrote:
On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 09:07:29 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:


In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:

Dunno how you're going to get a clean cut with a chisel
down a saw cut.


Sharp chisel, wide kerf. Alternately cut a little down each side,
clearing the chips as you go. A sharp Stanley knife will also do the
job but doesn't chip out the waste so well, so you have to scrape it
out.

Still sounds like a lot more work than snapping off a jigsaw blade. ;-)


Snapping off a jigsaw blade and smooting off the sharp edges is a lot
more work than using the multimaster :-)



How is this done with a MM? IME small blades on wood have trouble
clearing themselves unless they're on a router

There are a variety of saw blades in different shapes and some with an
extremely fine kerf.

The oscillatory action is also in very small amounts.

As a result of both, there is very little material removed in the
first place, and that which is seems to be cleared with little
difficulty.

--

..andy

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 17:05:34 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Matt wrote:
On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 14:37:18 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:


So I suppose the question is, will one of the Fein attachments cut
through a 3/4" floorboard (albeit only in one place) to allow you to get
a padsaw started? I imagine they would publicise it like crazy if it
were possible


If you use the Multimaster there is no need to use a padsaw. For both
the cross cut and for removing the tongue if necessary the 65mm wide
blade works just fine. There is no damage to any adjoining boards and
you can even cut right up to a skirting board without damaging the
paint if you use a slight angle on the cut. I've used it on 3/4 oak
boards no problem.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...ile=1&j ump=8




Maybe I'll e-mail Santa then


The segmented and segmented/depressed blades are also very effective
in this and other applications.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...=19593&recno=8


--

..andy