I'm wanting to put corner beads onto some facings but can only find
ones in which the groove is a flat bottomed trench rather than a V
which I would prefer. Can anyone advise please.

Rob

wrote:
I'm wanting to put corner beads onto some facings but can only find
ones in which the groove is a flat bottomed trench rather than a V
which I would prefer. Can anyone advise please.

Rob

Aldi had a set of 10 router bits 2 weeks ago for £4.99 there is still quite
a few boxes in my local Aldi, try you're nearest Aldi.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

This is the type of one of the bits in the Aldi set which I think you're
after?
http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/tren.../11_3hss.jpg--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

wrote:
I'm wanting to put corner beads onto some facings but can only find
ones in which the groove is a flat bottomed trench rather than a V
which I would prefer. Can anyone advise please.


What? Define corner beads, facings and a 'V' and we might have some idea of
which you speak.

Dave

david lang wrote:
wrote:
I'm wanting to put corner beads onto some facings but can only find
ones in which the groove is a flat bottomed trench rather than a V
which I would prefer. Can anyone advise please.


What? Define corner beads, facings and a 'V' and we might have some
idea of which you speak.

Dave

Its quite simple he wants to cut 'V' shaped channels in some wood
architrave so it'll give a fancy appearence rather than a flat dull looking
one. :-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

I'm wanting to put corner beads onto some facings but can only find
ones in which the groove is a flat bottomed trench rather than a V
which I would prefer. Can anyone advise please.

Its quite simple he wants to cut 'V' shaped channels in some wood
architrave so it'll give a fancy appearence rather than a flat dull
looking one. :-)

So where does the corner bead come in, and what is the bit about flat
bottoms M'Lud?

Dave

wrote:
I'm wanting to put corner beads onto some facings but can only find
ones in which the groove is a flat bottomed trench rather than a V
which I would prefer. Can anyone advise please.

Still no sure of which you speak, but have a look here
http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/profinder.asp

If Trend ain't not got one - give up!

Dave

david lang wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

I'm wanting to put corner beads onto some facings but can only find
ones in which the groove is a flat bottomed trench rather than a V
which I would prefer. Can anyone advise please.

Its quite simple he wants to cut 'V' shaped channels in some wood
architrave so it'll give a fancy appearence rather than a flat dull
looking one. :-)

So where does the corner bead come in, and what is the bit about flat
bottoms M'Lud?

Dave

It does'nt he's tried to express it and used the wrong word "bead" =
"channel", the flat bottom is what you get when using a fluted straight
bit, a runner channel if you like.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

On 18 Nov 2005 14:46:01 -0800, "
wrote:

I'm wanting to put corner beads onto some facings

Use a scratch stock (or make or yourself). Routers, by their nature,
will never cut as sharp a vee as a linear cutter.

Little disappointed that I'm having to define a 'corner bead'.
Axminster and Trend both identifiy their router cutters as this.

http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/prof...9%2F70X1%2F4TC

and

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

Now the characteristic of both of these and others is that the groove,
or if you look at the picture of either of these, the bottom section of
the cutter, is square across and what I would prefer from looking at
some older mouldings, is that this is a V, rather than a U, if you
like.

There is no way I'm going to use a scratch block on facings round four
doors, and there is also the possibility that there is 200 ft of pine
to be moulded.

Hope this explains better !!

Rob

wrote:
Little disappointed that I'm having to define a 'corner bead'.
Axminster and Trend both identifiy their router cutters as this.


http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/prof...9%2F70X1%2F4TC

and


http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...r%20beed%20rou
ter&sfile=1&jump=0

Now the characteristic of both of these and others is that the groove,
or if you look at the picture of either of these, the bottom section
of the cutter, is square across and what I would prefer from looking
at some older mouldings, is that this is a V, rather than a U, if you
like.

There is no way I'm going to use a scratch block on facings round four
doors, and there is also the possibility that there is 200 ft of pine
to be moulded.

Hope this explains better !!

Rob

oops! I'll get me coat.

But I would like to know why you didn't post the links in the first place?
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Very few router cutters bear any resemblance to traditional mouldings.
Don't know why this is - I guess the cutter "designers" have simply not
bothered to look at trad woodwork examples and have just made them up
instead. The beading cutters available are a perfect example of this -
there is no reason for such a simple design not to exactly replicate a
trad design but they just don't bother - as a result so much router
work looks crap.
If you want to do it properly either 1 use a hand moulding plane - lots
of old ones still available for sale and cheaper than a router cutter,
or 2 make your own spindle moulder cutter, or 3 get a router cutter
made up or modified by a saw doctor or engineering shop.
What are "facings"?

cheers

Jacob

In article . com,
says...
Little disappointed that I'm having to define a 'corner bead'.
Axminster and Trend both identifiy their router cutters as this.

http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/prof...9%2F70X1%2F4TC

and

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

Now the characteristic of both of these and others is that the groove,
or if you look at the picture of either of these, the bottom section of
the cutter, is square across and what I would prefer from looking at
some older mouldings, is that this is a V, rather than a U, if you
like.

There is no way I'm going to use a scratch block on facings round four
doors, and there is also the possibility that there is 200 ft of pine
to be moulded.

Can't you just make your own granny's tooth to cut the final bit of the
vee?

Rob Morley wrote:
In article . com,
says...
Little disappointed that I'm having to define a 'corner bead'.
Axminster and Trend both identifiy their router cutters as this.


http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/prof...9%2F70X1%2F4TC

and


http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...r%20beed%20rou
ter&sfile=1&jump=0

Now the characteristic of both of these and others is that the
groove, or if you look at the picture of either of these, the bottom
section of the cutter, is square across and what I would prefer from
looking at some older mouldings, is that this is a V, rather than a
U, if you like.

There is no way I'm going to use a scratch block on facings round
four doors, and there is also the possibility that there is 200 ft
of pine to be moulded.

Can't you just make your own granny's tooth to cut the final bit of
the vee?

The way I see it now is he wants a raised 'V' so could you not use one of
these...
http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/tren...es/11_3hss.jpg

to give you this VVVV using correctly spaced marked lines down the
facing(architrave), or is this again not what your after?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

mouldings. I'm not going to screw up a job like that by letting a router
or a spindle moulder near it!

Spindle moulder is the best possible tool for accurate repro of period
mouldings especially if large quantity is involved - as long as you
make your own cutters to match, easier than it sounds.

You will just never get a router cutter to make as sharp a vee in a
moulding as you can easily get by hand.

Router cutter could do it but they just don't make them that way.

If it's only pine, then use a router. It won't take such a fine moulding
anyway. If it's 200' then it's probably hemlock rather than a true pine

Only pine! Whats wrong with pine? Most of Britains best
Georgian/Victorian joinery is made of pine and is superb in
quality/design/durability etc.
Pine will take just as fine a moulding as any other wood - no problem,
infact is easier to machine than most hardwoods, given selected good
quality material and sharp cutters.

cheers

Jacob

On 20 Nov 2005 02:58:40 -0800, wrote:


mouldings. I'm not going to screw up a job like that by letting a router
or a spindle moulder near it!

Spindle moulder is the best possible tool for accurate repro of period
mouldings especially if large quantity is involved - as long as you
make your own cutters to match, easier than it sounds.

So how do you, Jacob?

People seem to have different ways of making them......

I'm interested in the cutting, shaping and sharpening methods used.

Do you bother to make limiters for example?


--

..andy

Andy Hall wrote:
On 20 Nov 2005 02:58:40 -0800, wrote:


mouldings. I'm not going to screw up a job like that by letting a router
or a spindle moulder near it!

Spindle moulder is the best possible tool for accurate repro of period
mouldings especially if large quantity is involved - as long as you
make your own cutters to match, easier than it sounds.

So how do you, Jacob?

People seem to have different ways of making them......

I'm interested in the cutting, shaping and sharpening methods used.

Do you bother to make limiters for example?

Start with pair blank HSS plates big enough for the moulding you want.
You make a pair but only one cuts the other is for balance i.e. doing
it by hand and eye is difficult to make them both cut - not not
necessary anyway.
Next transfer the design to the plates - I'm usually copying existing
so I simply trace around a cleaned up sample with a pencil on to the
plate previously paint-aerosoled to take pencil marks.
Next rough out the waste with an angle grinder.
Then grind out the profile with a bench grinder and various sizes of
wheel as necessary - checking by offering up the original. This is all
square-on so far.
Next back off the profile to make a cutting edge.
Then fine adjust the edge by offering up the original sample piece - AT
THE ANGLE OF CUT as near as possible - i.e. the hollows will be made
deeper etc. Grind away until there is a perfect fit and a sufficiently
backed off cutting edge. This sounds imprecise as it depends on hand
and eye but the results can be perfect with a bit of practice. Do it in
front of a good light so you can see where the cutter doesn't meet the
sample.
You could make limiters if you really want to but I use the old
Whitehill blocks (pre-safety regs) as these permit very fine adjustment
and alteration of the angle. You just have to be more careful and not
allow anyone else to use the machine.
The other advantage of the old blocks is that you can cut more profiles
around the other 3 sides of the plates. Forget about exact matching
pairs but just aim at balancing the block enough to stop it vibrating
or humming too much.
I now have hundreds of profiles in my box for very little outlay -
would cost thousands in router cutters which would be crap anyway as
they don't match old joinery - not to mention the noise, dust and
inconvenience. Many of them get modified slightly as new jobs come in,
but HSS doesn't seem to need much sharpening.
You could do it with safety cutters the same but you'd loose the fine
adjustability I imagine, but a tilting arbor might solve the prob.

cheers

Jacob
PS wear goggles - always start the machine with a large block of wood
in front of the cutters in case you have forgotten to tighten something
- use push sticks or power feed - put all guards in place, etc etc

On 20 Nov 2005 03:56:33 -0800, wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:
On 20 Nov 2005 02:58:40 -0800, wrote:


mouldings. I'm not going to screw up a job like that by letting a router
or a spindle moulder near it!

Spindle moulder is the best possible tool for accurate repro of period
mouldings especially if large quantity is involved - as long as you
make your own cutters to match, easier than it sounds.

So how do you, Jacob?

People seem to have different ways of making them......

I'm interested in the cutting, shaping and sharpening methods used.

Do you bother to make limiters for example?

Start with pair blank HSS plates big enough for the moulding you want.
You make a pair but only one cuts the other is for balance i.e. doing
it by hand and eye is difficult to make them both cut - not not
necessary anyway.

OK. Now it makes sense. Do you do the initial "square on" work with
two blanks clamped together, or simply cut a second roughly to match
the first, perhaps a cut a bit further back to avoid high spots?


Next transfer the design to the plates - I'm usually copying existing
so I simply trace around a cleaned up sample with a pencil on to the
plate previously paint-aerosoled to take pencil marks.
Next rough out the waste with an angle grinder.
Then grind out the profile with a bench grinder and various sizes of
wheel as necessary - checking by offering up the original. This is all
square-on so far.

Hmm.... I'm interested as to how you would get into very fine, acute
angled places. Do you have narrow wheels for this or is there another
way?


Next back off the profile to make a cutting edge.

Wheel as well? Do you use a jig of some sort to create a consistent
angle?


Then fine adjust the edge by offering up the original sample piece - AT
THE ANGLE OF CUT as near as possible - i.e. the hollows will be made
deeper etc.

Do you measure that using the knives mounted on the block and on the
machine itself, or is there another way? I hadn't really thought
about this aspect, but presumably this also depends on the block
diameter?


Grind away until there is a perfect fit and a sufficiently
backed off cutting edge. This sounds imprecise as it depends on hand
and eye but the results can be perfect with a bit of practice. Do it in
front of a good light so you can see where the cutter doesn't meet the
sample.

I guess that anyway on older mouldings the cutters may well have been
made by hand, so this is a good way.



You could make limiters if you really want to but I use the old
Whitehill blocks (pre-safety regs) as these permit very fine adjustment
and alteration of the angle.

OK, so they didn't have the peg arrangement of the new ones?


You just have to be more careful and not
allow anyone else to use the machine.




The other advantage of the old blocks is that you can cut more profiles
around the other 3 sides of the plates.

So there's some kind of a flat clamping arrangement?

I think that on some of the newer ones, one would have to put in some
kind of piece to act as a limiter to make the clamp work, even if it
wasn't cut to near the profile of the main cutter(s).


Forget about exact matching
pairs but just aim at balancing the block enough to stop it vibrating
or humming too much.

Presumably on the machine itself?




I now have hundreds of profiles in my box for very little outlay -
would cost thousands in router cutters which would be crap anyway as
they don't match old joinery - not to mention the noise, dust and
inconvenience. Many of them get modified slightly as new jobs come in,
but HSS doesn't seem to need much sharpening.

Are these generally relatively short runs anyway?


You could do it with safety cutters the same but you'd loose the fine
adjustability I imagine, but a tilting arbor might solve the prob.






cheers

Jacob
PS wear goggles - always start the machine with a large block of wood
in front of the cutters in case you have forgotten to tighten something
- use push sticks or power feed - put all guards in place, etc etc

Definitely. This is one machine that I treat with a great deal of
respect and always follow a check list twice for tightening things and
checking free running.


--

..andy

In article . com,
says...
snip
Then grind out the profile with a bench grinder and various sizes of
wheel as necessary

Don't you mean die grinder?

Andy Hall wrote:
On 20 Nov 2005 03:56:33 -0800, wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:
On 20 Nov 2005 02:58:40 -0800, wrote:


mouldings. I'm not going to screw up a job like that by letting a router
or a spindle moulder near it!

Spindle moulder is the best possible tool for accurate repro of period
mouldings especially if large quantity is involved - as long as you
make your own cutters to match, easier than it sounds.

So how do you, Jacob?

People seem to have different ways of making them......

I'm interested in the cutting, shaping and sharpening methods used.

Do you bother to make limiters for example?

Start with pair blank HSS plates big enough for the moulding you want.
You make a pair but only one cuts the other is for balance i.e. doing
it by hand and eye is difficult to make them both cut - not not
necessary anyway.

OK. Now it makes sense. Do you do the initial "square on" work with
two blanks clamped together, or simply cut a second roughly to match
the first, perhaps a cut a bit further back to avoid high spots?

Aim at 2 the same - but set one back slightly in the block - just a
gnats

Next transfer the design to the plates - I'm usually copying existing
so I simply trace around a cleaned up sample with a pencil on to the
plate previously paint-aerosoled to take pencil marks.
Next rough out the waste with an angle grinder.
Then grind out the profile with a bench grinder and various sizes of
wheel as necessary - checking by offering up the original. This is all
square-on so far.

Hmm.... I'm interested as to how you would get into very fine, acute
angled places. Do you have narrow wheels for this or is there another
way?

Make a sharp edge on a thin wheel - cuts a more acute angle when
backing off rather than square on, or you can tighten the acute angles
with a file

Next back off the profile to make a cutting edge.

Wheel as well? Do you use a jig of some sort to create a consistent
angle?

No just back off as you feel necessary - the angle must be acute enough
so that the back of the cutter doesn't hit the work piece, thats the
only limit


Then fine adjust the edge by offering up the original sample piece - AT
THE ANGLE OF CUT as near as possible - i.e. the hollows will be made
deeper etc.

Do you measure that using the knives mounted on the block and on the
machine itself, or is there another way? I hadn't really thought
about this aspect, but presumably this also depends on the block
diameter?

Do it by eye - have the block beside you with a cutter in place for
visual reference.

Grind away until there is a perfect fit and a sufficiently
backed off cutting edge. This sounds imprecise as it depends on hand
and eye but the results can be perfect with a bit of practice. Do it in
front of a good light so you can see where the cutter doesn't meet the
sample.

I guess that anyway on older mouldings the cutters may well have been
made by hand, so this is a good way.

Exactly the same procedure with exactly the same result + benefit of
machine to do the work

You could make limiters if you really want to but I use the old
Whitehill blocks (pre-safety regs) as these permit very fine adjustment
and alteration of the angle.

OK, so they didn't have the peg arrangement of the new ones?

Yes - you could file the pegs off but I shouldn't recommend that!

You just have to be more careful and not
allow anyone else to use the machine.




The other advantage of the old blocks is that you can cut more profiles
around the other 3 sides of the plates.

So there's some kind of a flat clamping arrangement?

Yep

I think that on some of the newer ones, one would have to put in some
kind of piece to act as a limiter to make the clamp work, even if it
wasn't cut to near the profile of the main cutter(s).


Forget about exact matching
pairs but just aim at balancing the block enough to stop it vibrating
or humming too much.

Presumably on the machine itself?

Yerss




I now have hundreds of profiles in my box for very little outlay -
would cost thousands in router cutters which would be crap anyway as
they don't match old joinery - not to mention the noise, dust and
inconvenience. Many of them get modified slightly as new jobs come in,
but HSS doesn't seem to need much sharpening.

Are these generally relatively short runs anyway?

Mostly short runs but some have been re-used for years and have done
loads of work - particularly the glazing bar ovolo profiles, a
bolection/dado rail cutter and various architrave/skirting designs.


You could do it with safety cutters the same but you'd loose the fine
adjustability I imagine, but a tilting arbor might solve the prob.






cheers

Jacob
PS wear goggles - always start the machine with a large block of wood
in front of the cutters in case you have forgotten to tighten something
- use push sticks or power feed - put all guards in place, etc etc

Definitely. This is one machine that I treat with a great deal of
respect and always follow a check list twice for tightening things and
checking free running.


--

.andy

cheers

Jacob

Rob Morley wrote:
In article . com,
says...
snip
Then grind out the profile with a bench grinder and various sizes of
wheel as necessary

Don't you mean die grinder?

What's a die grinder? I use an ordinary cheapo 6inch double ended bench
grinder with standard wheels plus 3 or 4 narrow ones with shaped ends -
half round, sharp v angle etc. I'm talking low tech engineering here!

cheers

Jacob

On 20 Nov 2005 02:58:40 -0800, wrote:

Spindle moulder is the best possible tool for accurate repro of period
mouldings

It's not bad if you're doing a big cyma but you'll never get as good a
reed from a spindle as you can with a single bladed hand tool. Besides
which, how do you do neat stopped mouldings ? A spindle might be the
easiest way to do repro mouldings, but surely the "best possible tool
for accurate repro" is to use the same hand plane they were cutwith
originally.

If it's only pine, then use a router. It won't take such a fine moulding
anyway. If it's 200' then it's probably hemlock rather than a true pine

Only pine! Whats wrong with pine?

There's nothing wrong with pine, except that we rarely use it any more.
You know how hard it is to even find pine of the same grade as was used
a century or so ago. If the OP is talking about 200' then I assume he's
doing skirtings or something and that will be in generic carpentry
whitewood, which is pretty unlikely to even be a pine, let alone a good
one.

On 20 Nov 2005 06:13:37 -0800, wrote:


Thanks for all this, Jacob

much appreciated


--

..andy

On 20 Nov 2005 06:18:02 -0800, wrote:

What's a die grinder?

Usually an air tool. It's a little "drill motor" that spins a small
stone mounted on a shaft, but at some terrifying speed (20k rpm). You
have to be careful using stones that are properly rated for it, and
keeping them dressed and in balance.

I can't really see how you'd shape most spindle tooling on a bench
grinder, because the wheel is just too big. I generally use either an
angle grinder with a thin disk in it, a die grinder, or just a hand
stone slip to finish up.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 20 Nov 2005 06:18:02 -0800, wrote:

What's a die grinder?

Usually an air tool. It's a little "drill motor" that spins a small
stone mounted on a shaft, but at some terrifying speed (20k rpm). You
have to be careful using stones that are properly rated for it, and
keeping them dressed and in balance.

I can't really see how you'd shape most spindle tooling on a bench
grinder, because the wheel is just too big. I generally use either an
angle grinder with a thin disk in it, a die grinder, or just a hand
stone slip to finish up.

You can buy thin wheels about 6mm I think, and then shape the edge with
a normal wheel dressing tool.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 20 Nov 2005 02:58:40 -0800, wrote:

Spindle moulder is the best possible tool for accurate repro of period
mouldings

It's not bad if you're doing a big cyma but you'll never get as good a
reed from a spindle as you can with a single bladed hand tool. Besides
which, how do you do neat stopped mouldings ? A spindle might be the
easiest way to do repro mouldings, but surely the "best possible tool
for accurate repro" is to use the same hand plane they were cutwith
originally.

OK "best possible macine"

If it's only pine, then use a router. It won't take such a fine moulding
anyway. If it's 200' then it's probably hemlock rather than a true pine

Only pine! Whats wrong with pine?

There's nothing wrong with pine, except that we rarely use it any more.
You know how hard it is to even find pine of the same grade as was used
a century or so ago. If the OP is talking about 200' then I assume he's
doing skirtings or something and that will be in generic carpentry
whitewood, which is pretty unlikely to even be a pine, let alone a good
one.

I use excellent quality pine for virtually everything I do. Not at all
difficult to find; larger timber merchants stock Russian, Swedish
redwood (scots pine) graded as "unsorted" i.e. would be 1st 2nd and
3rds if sorted. Excellent stuff, the trees haven't changed a bit. What
is difficult is larger widths above 10 inches as virgin forest is less
likely to be cut down nowadays.

Spindle moulder is the best possible tool for accurate repro of period
mouldings

It's not bad if you're doing a big cyma but you'll never get as good a
reed from a spindle as you can with a single bladed hand tool.

Yes you can - spindle moulder does very fine work large or small and is
much more consistently perfect than a hand tool, and quicker! Much
Victorian and earlier joinery was done with spindle moulders - with
"french" cutters its an old and primitive tool found alongside lathes
and saws at woodworking mills

Besides
which, how do you do neat stopped mouldings ? A spindle might be the
easiest way to do repro mouldings, but surely the "best possible tool
for accurate repro" is to use the same hand plane they were cutwith
originally.
Stopped mouldings same prob whatever you use i.e. you have to cut in to
start and pull out to stop, then finish the ends by hand. Just the same
with a spindle moulder. And router too, though most people leave the
ends bodged as you can't tell from a distance

Andy Dingley wrote:

There's nothing wrong with pine, except that we rarely use it any more.
You know how hard it is to even find pine of the same grade as was used
a century or so ago. If the OP is talking about 200' then I assume he's
doing skirtings or something and that will be in generic carpentry
whitewood, which is pretty unlikely to even be a pine, let alone a good
one.

My local Champions produce all their planed stuff and mouldings from
unsorted redwood. Whitewood machines badly and blunts cutters so isn't a
viable option for any merchant.

Sorry the 'only pine' bit was meant to indicate that it was soft wood
rather than hardwood. I jealously guard some old pine I have and use
it carefully !!

So in summary - I'm not going to get the router cutter I want ! And
should therefore invest in a spindle moulder ! Hmm - that's not
really an option is it? A round bead + V cutter is not recommended so
perhaps what I'm going to have to look at is a routed round bead and a
cutter for the moulding plane, possibly shaping the cutter myself. I'm
not really that enthusiastic about scratching.

I do suppose it's not possible to modify a router to do spindle
moulding ?

Rob

On 22 Nov 2005 14:47:48 -0800, "
wrote:

Sorry the 'only pine' bit was meant to indicate that it was soft wood
rather than hardwood. I jealously guard some old pine I have and use
it carefully !!

So in summary - I'm not going to get the router cutter I want ! And
should therefore invest in a spindle moulder ! Hmm - that's not
really an option is it?

Could be. There are secondhand ones around that don't conform to
latest safety legislation or have been traded in. It becomes an
issue of space and cost.


A round bead + V cutter is not recommended so
perhaps what I'm going to have to look at is a routed round bead and a
cutter for the moulding plane, possibly shaping the cutter myself. I'm
not really that enthusiastic about scratching.

I do suppose it's not possible to modify a router to do spindle
moulding ?

The closest would be a router in a router table. If you have a
proper 1800-2000W 12.7mm one, you might find a router cutter that's
good enough.

Typical spindle moulder tooling which can take cutters of the type
being discussed is this type of thing

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...=20842&recno=1

There isn't really a safe and sensible way to fit that to a router,
and the drive is normally through a belt on a spindle moulder.


If you don't have a lot to do, I guess the next option would be to
find a joinery place willing to make the knives and run the pieces.



--

..andy

So in summary - I'm not going to get the router cutter I want ! And
should therefore invest in a spindle moulder ! Hmm - that's not
really an option is it? A round bead + V cutter is not recommended so
perhaps what I'm going to have to look at is a routed round bead and a
cutter for the moulding plane, possibly shaping the cutter myself. I'm
not really that enthusiastic about scratching.

In summary I'd say take the nearest match of router cutter to a saw
doctor and ask them to modify it to cut exactly the bead and sharp "v"
you want. (nb v is called a "quirk" in this situation). Only buy a
spindle if you are going in to mouldings in a biggish way - or if you
want total control of design and details.

I do suppose it's not possible to modify a router to do spindle
moulding ?

Router is essentially a tiny portable spindle moulder. Hence can do
same as spindle moulder but very limited size of cutters - small work
only. Spindle usually 30mm dia compared to router at 1/4inch or 1/2
inch, so tools not interchangeable. But some spindle moulders can take
router cutters in an add-on head attachment, if it has enough speed,
but max on SM is often about 8000rpm
cheers

Jacob

Got a good saw doctor locally - I'll pay him a visit.

Thanks everyone.

Rob