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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Questions about pole barn
I am the one asking about leveling the lot and wanting to "box in" with
2x6's with gravel and park on it for awhile till I can afford to build everything. Is it ok to ly black plastic down before putting the rock down to keep weeds, etc, from growing through? Also, what size rick should I use. I plan on getting it myself and shoveling by hand. I want something that is easy to rake etc, to make level but will last too and not be too expensive. |
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wrote in message ups.com... I am the one asking about leveling the lot and wanting to "box in" with 2x6's with gravel and park on it for awhile till I can afford to build everything. Is it ok to ly black plastic down before putting the rock down to keep weeds, etc, from growing through? Also, what size rick should I use. I plan on getting it myself and shoveling by hand. I want something that is easy to rake etc, to make level but will last too and not be too expensive. Something that really works well, but absolutely MUST be properly and thoroughly compacted is "washout". Many governments now use concrete washout as road base. If it's properly compacted, it will eventually turn back to weak concrete. You should top it with a finer, more dense pavement for permanence -- it tends to abrade some, and become quite dusty when it's dry. Asphalt or concrete tops it well. Washout is cheap. Washout is easy to rake and shovel into place. Washout is easy to level. Washout is hard to fully compact. A roller or plate compactor is necessary. LLoyd |
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I can get that crush and run. SHould I just use it completely?
I plan on hauling it myself in my dual axel trailer. |
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If you have a soft sub base it will push into the soil quite a bit,
until it gets good and packed, but Its best to get a bit bigger substrate down as a base first and it will make it a lot more stable. Crush and run if you keep it damp and run on it gets pretty darn compacted and hard and wears pretty good. Easy shoveling too!,,,,,Too bad the larger stuff is not as easy to shovel. On 14 Mar 2005 12:37:15 -0800, wrote: ===I can get that crush and run. SHould I just use it completely? === ===I plan on hauling it myself in my dual axel trailer. ============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! |
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SHould I not till the ground any more then?
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Most pea gravel will roll around under traffic forever. I suggest that
you ask for graded base course material from a local aggregate supplier, preferably one that is supplying material for highway construction. It is designed to attain maximum density with the proper moisture content and wheel or vibratory compaction. Heavy rain will wash out the fines and degrade the stability, but it is ideal as a base for concrete or asphalt. Bugs |
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Do the layered approach. Follow with a layer of washout/"crush and
run" on top. You don't need much, just enough to fill all the gaps from the previous level plus a little. If you wet it and roll it out, you can get a very solid, reasonably smooth surface. If you drive over this for a few years and then lay down some cement on top of it, you will have a floor that isn't going to shift anytime in your lifetime. |
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Do NOT till any ground that you do not have to in order to dig it out.
You want old settled fill that has been naturally compacted. You do not want to fluff up the ground and have it settle later. I'm a bit gunshy on this, in my area we have a heavy clay/sand subsoil tha packs/settles into low grade concrete. When you dig it out it bulks up about 30%, takes some serious copacting to get it anywhere near back to the same size. If you don't compact it well, it takes up to 10 years to settle naturally. wrote: SHould I not till the ground any more then? |
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Around here most people put in 6" to 12" of "Class 5" gravel. It has a
mix of large and small rocks, sand, and some clay. Used as an underlayment for all the roads so it's readily available. You can also get a Class 5 made from ground up concrete, it will pack down VERY hard. All of these need to have a fairly high moisture content then tamped with a plate tamper. rent the tamper for $30 at your local rental place. wrote: I am the one asking about leveling the lot and wanting to "box in" with 2x6's with gravel and park on it for awhile till I can afford to build everything. Is it ok to ly black plastic down before putting the rock down to keep weeds, etc, from growing through? Also, what size rick should I use. I plan on getting it myself and shoveling by hand. I want something that is easy to rake etc, to make level but will last too and not be too expensive. |
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