Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Best way to level lot for pole barn
I am wanting to build a small pole barn garage myself. The area is near
my blacktop turn around. I want to extend this turnaround with gravel. My idea is to "box in" a 24 x 24 area with stakes and 2x6's. To put the gravel in this for the pole barn floor. Then start building as I have time and money. (I will not have a 2x6 in the front so I can put gravel from my turnaround to the pole barn and use it for parking. I worked the ground with a tiller last year and scraped with a tractor bucket. It is more level than it was but not perfect. Any idea on how I can get this good and level before I start without buying expensive tools or spending a lot of money? (We just had a baby born two months ago). Is this a doable project by myself? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
wrote in message oups.com... I am wanting to build a small pole barn garage myself. The area is near my blacktop turn around. I want to extend this turnaround with gravel. My idea is to "box in" a 24 x 24 area with stakes and 2x6's. To put the gravel in this for the pole barn floor. Then start building as I have time and money. (I will not have a 2x6 in the front so I can put gravel from my turnaround to the pole barn and use it for parking. I worked the ground with a tiller last year and scraped with a tractor bucket. It is more level than it was but not perfect. Any idea on how I can get this good and level before I start without buying expensive tools or spending a lot of money? (We just had a baby Build the pole barn first. Get it square and plumb, and make the collar beams level. True the collar with a water level (below). Then box in the bottom of the barn with pressure treated (ground contact) batter boards -- say, 2x8's, if they're wide enough to make up any uneveness on the ground. Just adjust the box to level all-round, ditching where necessary to keep the top at or below your desired finished level. Back-fill around the outsides of the batter boards, then fill the box with gravel (or pre-fill with some compacted earth to a slightly higher "level" mark than the original grade, then finish up with 4" to 6" of gravel) and plate compact the whole mass. Leveling can be done with a simple water level. In its basic incarnation, it's just a transparent plastic hose with a large bottle of water at one end, and you at the other. The volume of water in the bottle should be twenty or more times the total volume of the hose, if you want the level to be both accurate and easy to use. Make sure there are NO bubbles in the line; they'll disrupt the accuracy. Don't worry about heaving the affair up a ladder to use it. Just set the bottle on the ground at a convenient "home" location right up against your "first" pole, and use the bottle's water level as the basis mark for everything else. Mark that water level on the "first" pole. Run the hose around to all the poles, and mark a reference line on each pole at the water level in the hose. (let it stablilize a few moments at each point -- the water forms a slow pendulum in the hose) Then you're done with the level. Just drive a nail at each reference mark, and measure up or down from those marks with a tape to establish other higher or lower level points. Yeah... you can do it. LLoyd |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Ignoramus21682 wrote:
The most precise tool in the world, for leveling, is a transparent vinyl hose villed with water. And when you need a long one, a regular hose with transparent tubing spliced onto the ends! - GWE |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
You can do a nice job with one of the el-cheapo laser levels. This one
is $10 at Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90725 Just set it up somewhere convienient (inside or outside the building footprint) and start in. Best way to do things is to use a "story stick" (any old stick with a big black mark on the side that matches the laser level line) Dig a series of hole about 4' on center that are the exact depth of your finished excavation. Use some stakes to mark the top of the excavation on the areas you want to fill. One note: As much as possible, try not to do any building on "disturbed earth" that has not been compacted with a tamper. Your building will tend to tilt after a while if you don't tamp it. Just dig down to the grade you want and leave it alone. It's good practice to add at least 6" (12" is better) of good gravel between your excavated area and the bottom of the concrete. wrote: I am wanting to build a small pole barn garage myself. The area is near my blacktop turn around. I want to extend this turnaround with gravel. My idea is to "box in" a 24 x 24 area with stakes and 2x6's. To put the gravel in this for the pole barn floor. Then start building as I have time and money. (I will not have a 2x6 in the front so I can put gravel from my turnaround to the pole barn and use it for parking. I worked the ground with a tiller last year and scraped with a tractor bucket. It is more level than it was but not perfect. Any idea on how I can get this good and level before I start without buying expensive tools or spending a lot of money? (We just had a baby born two months ago). Is this a doable project by myself? |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 14:28:08 GMT, RoyJ wrote:
You can do a nice job with one of the el-cheapo laser levels. This one is $10 at Harbor Freight. Problem with a laser level, is you get a nice straight line, but your level is only as good as that bubble on that tiny level. For a few feet, you're probably right on. But, how much error in that bubble would it take to be off by an inch, at 50 feet? Not a hell of a lot. Water is much more dependable, can't be mis-calibrated, and has been in use as a level for laying out buildings, since the pyramids were built. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
If you put a laser level in the center you are going out 12', it won't
be out by much. Plus this is a rough excavation prior to filling with concrete or gravel. Do you REALLY need accuracy in the +/- .060" range? A water level is a pain to use in an excavation. Every time you move one end, you adjust the water level in the OTHER end. Requires setting up both ends, then remeasuring your reference end. Lots of chance for error. As for accuracy, I have a Hoppy split level transit, all plastic, $30 or so, that will easily measure the thickness of a dime at 15', and is MUCH more convienient than any water level. I use it for measuring floor and structural issues in old houses. And, yes, I have calibrated it and done repeatability testing. Dave Hinz wrote: On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 14:28:08 GMT, RoyJ wrote: You can do a nice job with one of the el-cheapo laser levels. This one is $10 at Harbor Freight. Problem with a laser level, is you get a nice straight line, but your level is only as good as that bubble on that tiny level. For a few feet, you're probably right on. But, how much error in that bubble would it take to be off by an inch, at 50 feet? Not a hell of a lot. Water is much more dependable, can't be mis-calibrated, and has been in use as a level for laying out buildings, since the pyramids were built. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
"RoyJ" wrote in message news If you put a laser level in the center you are going out 12', it won't be out by much. Plus this is a rough excavation prior to filling with concrete or gravel. Do you REALLY need accuracy in the +/- .060" range? A water level is a pain to use in an excavation. Every time you move one end, you adjust the water level in the OTHER end. Requires setting up both ends, then remeasuring your reference end. Lots of chance for error. That's why you want to use a large reservoir at one end... As for accuracy, I have a Hoppy split level transit, all plastic, $30 or so, that will easily measure the thickness of a dime at 15', and is MUCH more convienient than any water level. I use it for measuring floor and structural issues in old houses. And, yes, I have calibrated it and done repeatability testing. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
"RoyJ" wrote in message news If you put a laser level in the center you are going out 12', it won't be out by much. Plus this is a rough excavation prior to filling with concrete or gravel. Do you REALLY need accuracy in the +/- .060" range? A water level is a pain to use in an excavation. Every time you move one end, you adjust the water level in the OTHER end. Requires setting up both ends, then remeasuring your reference end. Lots of chance for error. As for accuracy, I have a Hoppy split level transit, all plastic, $30 or so, that will easily measure the thickness of a dime at 15', and is MUCH more convienient than any water level. I use it for measuring floor and structural issues in old houses. And, yes, I have calibrated it and done repeatability testing. But you are right-a transit is a very nice instrument to have! |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Cheap it is, but I'd hardly say that a water level "cannot go wrong
ever". It has it's share of problems when you try and use it. Air bubbles, moving one end and losilevel has it'sng your reference, cumbersome, not useful for ceiling or rafter work, etc etc. Ignoramus21682 wrote: On 10 Mar 2005 15:27:45 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote: On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 14:28:08 GMT, RoyJ wrote: You can do a nice job with one of the el-cheapo laser levels. This one is $10 at Harbor Freight. Problem with a laser level, is you get a nice straight line, but your level is only as good as that bubble on that tiny level. For a few feet, you're probably right on. But, how much error in that bubble would it take to be off by an inch, at 50 feet? Not a hell of a lot. Water is much more dependable, can't be mis-calibrated, and has been in use as a level for laying out buildings, since the pyramids were built. Using water is a solution that cannot go wrong, ever. There is nothing to break in a water level, as long as you are watching out for bubbles. i |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
"Pete & sheri" wrote in message ... whatever you do, don't depend on a box made of 2 X 6's to hold in your fill material. It won't. Please read the suggestion again. I never said to count on lumber to hold the fill. I suggested using lumber as a form, and using compacted back-fill for support. That works well, except on extreme slopes. In such a case, only a revettement or bulkhead anchored into the higher earth will serve. LLoyd |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
When I need to level a small area I flood it and rake it out to show
about a quarter inch of water across the entire surface. A bit messy but cheap and accurate. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote in message .net... "Pete & sheri" wrote in message ... whatever you do, don't depend on a box made of 2 X 6's to hold in your fill material. It won't. I really hate to rain on the water hose level peoples parade, but there are some factors that need to be addressed. I once took a 30' piece of plastic hose to use as a level. I filled it full with no air whatsoever in it. I held both ends next to each other and was amazed to see the level was over an inch different. The problem was the temperature of the water was changing as I was filling the clear hose. I used a garden hose that was in the sun so the first water was warm followed by cooler water. It is very important the water is the same temp throughout the hose. This would even be something to be aware of if part of the hose level was in the sun and part in the shade. Dixon |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
wrote:
I am wanting to build a small pole barn garage myself. The area is near my blacktop turn around. I want to extend this turnaround with gravel. My idea is to "box in" a 24 x 24 area with stakes and 2x6's. To put the gravel in this for the pole barn floor. Then start building as I have time and money. (I will not have a 2x6 in the front so I can put gravel from my turnaround to the pole barn and use it for parking. I worked the ground with a tiller last year and scraped with a tractor bucket. It is more level than it was but not perfect. Any idea on how I can get this good and level before I start without buying expensive tools or spending a lot of money? (We just had a baby born two months ago). Is this a doable project by myself? I'd suggest using landscaping timbers and rebar to contain the gravel. The timbers are relatively attactive and rebar stakes through drilled holes in the timbers are all but invisible. As for spreading dirt or gravel, tractor with box blade or a Bobcat is probably the best way. You can move a lot of dirt with a Bobcat (but it will beat you to death). I'd recommend putting the poles for your barn in first and then build up the timbers and fill with dirt or gravel. Make sure the poles are rot-resistant. -- Gary Brady Austin, TX www.powdercoatoven.4t.com |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
I am wanting to build a small pole barn garage myself. The area is near
my blacktop turn around. I want to extend this turnaround with gravel. My idea is to "box in" a 24 x 24 area with stakes and 2x6's. To put the gravel in this for the pole barn floor. Then start building as I have time and money. (I will not have a 2x6 in the front so I can put gravel from my turnaround to the pole barn and use it for parking. I worked the ground with a tiller last year and scraped with a tractor bucket. It is more level than it was but not perfect. Any idea on how I can get this good and level before I start without buying expensive tools or spending a lot of money? (We just had a baby born two months ago). Is this a doable project by myself? Do a search on google groups (rec.crafts.metalworking) on "How to make a lot level" and you'll get 52 hits. Ken. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
"Dixon" wrote in message ... "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote in message .net... "Pete & sheri" wrote in message ... whatever you do, don't depend on a box made of 2 X 6's to hold in your fill material. It won't. I really hate to rain on the water hose level peoples parade, but there are some factors that need to be addressed. I once took a 30' piece of plastic hose to use as a level. I filled it full with no air whatsoever in it. I held both ends next to each other and was amazed to see the level was over an inch different. The problem was the temperature of the water was changing as I was filling the clear hose. I used a garden hose that was in the sun so the first water was warm followed by cooler water. It is very important the water is the same temp throughout the hose. This would even be something to be aware of if part of the hose level was in the sun and part in the shade. Dixon I kinda wondered about this. So I did some googling... The total expansion from freezing to boiling is about 4.3%. So you'd get about 15 inches difference with such a difference of temperature. But you didn't have such a range. If one half of a 30 foot tube was at 20 centigrade and the other at 40 centigrade you'd get about 1 inch difference. If one half was (just above) freezing and the other was 20 degrees you'd get about 1/3rd of an inch. The above is only approximate back-of-envelope-type maths... |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
In article ,
Dave Hinz wrote: Problem with a laser level, is you get a nice straight line, but your level is only as good as that bubble on that tiny level. For a few feet, you're probably right on. But, how much error in that bubble would it take to be off by an inch, at 50 feet? Not a hell of a lot. If you shoot both ways with the bubble you should have no problem getting less than 1/4" error in 50 ft. -- Free men own guns, slaves don't www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
RoyJ wrote: If you put a laser level in the center you are going out 12', it won't be out by much. Plus this is a rough excavation prior to filling with concrete or gravel. Do you REALLY need accuracy in the +/- .060" range? A water level is a pain to use in an excavation. Every time you move one end, you adjust the water level in the OTHER end. Requires setting up both ends, then remeasuring your reference end. Lots of chance for error. As for accuracy, I have a Hoppy split level transit, all plastic, $30 or so, that will easily measure the thickness of a dime at 15', and is MUCH more convienient than any water level. I use it for measuring floor and structural issues in old houses. And, yes, I have calibrated it and done repeatability testing. Dave Hinz wrote: On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 14:28:08 GMT, RoyJ wrote: You can do a nice job with one of the el-cheapo laser levels. This one is $10 at Harbor Freight. Problem with a laser level, is you get a nice straight line, but your level is only as good as that bubble on that tiny level. For a few feet, you're probably right on. But, how much error in that bubble would it take to be off by an inch, at 50 feet? Not a hell of a lot. Water is much more dependable, can't be mis-calibrated, and has been in use as a level for laying out buildings, since the pyramids were built. I have a cheap laser level. How would I use it to check the level of the ground? |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Why do you want it level? Where will the water go when it rains? Most
designs of this type call for an elevated floor with clear drainage all around; otherwise you just built a big mudhole. Bugs |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
What should I use to hold in the fill material then?
|
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Bugs wrote: Why do you want it level? Where will the water go when it rains? Most designs of this type call for an elevated floor with clear drainage all around; otherwise you just built a big mudhole. Bugs What do you mean? I want the floor level so I can make sure the gravel is level, then build my pole bar around it. |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
Set up a box, tripod, whatever you have that is stable. Get the top
perfectly level both directions. Turn on the laser, aim it over the excavation area. Use a tape measure or beter yet, just a stick with a big line on it, to check if you are above or below finished grade. What works well is to make a grid about 3' or 4' on center, dig out or fill in to get all these spots at the correct elevation. Start transferring dirt from high spots to low spots. wrote: RoyJ wrote: If you put a laser level in the center you are going out 12', it won't be out by much. Plus this is a rough excavation prior to filling with concrete or gravel. Do you REALLY need accuracy in the +/- .060" range? A water level is a pain to use in an excavation. Every time you move one end, you adjust the water level in the OTHER end. Requires setting up both ends, then remeasuring your reference end. Lots of chance for error. As for accuracy, I have a Hoppy split level transit, all plastic, $30 or so, that will easily measure the thickness of a dime at 15', and is MUCH more convienient than any water level. I use it for measuring floor and structural issues in old houses. And, yes, I have calibrated it and done repeatability testing. Dave Hinz wrote: On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 14:28:08 GMT, RoyJ wrote: You can do a nice job with one of the el-cheapo laser levels. This one is $10 at Harbor Freight. Problem with a laser level, is you get a nice straight line, but your level is only as good as that bubble on that tiny level. For a few feet, you're probably right on. But, how much error in that bubble would it take to be off by an inch, at 50 feet? Not a hell of a lot. Water is much more dependable, can't be mis-calibrated, and has been in use as a level for laying out buildings, since the pyramids were built. I have a cheap laser level. How would I use it to check the level of the ground? |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
|
#25
|
|||
|
|||
I agree with those comments. If you ever plan to install concrete, then
the subgrade needs to be compacted to 95% of Standard Proctor, the fill material should be Base Course, as we call the graded material on this side of the pond, also at 95% Proctor. If you don't know what I'm talking about, you should hire an engineering firm to set the grades and inspect the work. Expensive, yes, but cheaper than doing it all over when everything fails in a few years. Bugs |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Laser levels, like all levels, need to be tested and adjusted before
depending on them for a level line. The so-called peg test only takes a few minutes and assures you that the level is truly in adjustment. Use two points about 100 ft. apart for temporary bench marks. Set the level up close to one of the benchmarks. Take a rod reading on both benches and note the difference in elevation. Then move the level to a point near the other benchmark. Take another set of readings. The difference between the readings is approximately twice the error of the level. Adjust the level until both sets of readings are exactly the same. Then you have a level outlook on the world. Bugs |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
"Dave Hinz" wrote in message ... On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 14:28:08 GMT, RoyJ wrote: You can do a nice job with one of the el-cheapo laser levels. This one is $10 at Harbor Freight. Problem with a laser level, is you get a nice straight line, but your level is only as good as that bubble on that tiny level. For a few feet, you're probably right on. But, how much error in that bubble would it take to be off by an inch, at 50 feet? Not a hell of a lot. Water is much more dependable, can't be mis-calibrated, and has been in use as a level for laying out buildings, since the pyramids were built. Exactly, the word "laser" makes it sound like no errors are possible even on an el-cheepo version. |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
Be aware that a water level can give false readings also. Just think what
happens on a sunny day when the water in the two ends may be of different temperatures. George (another George) Willer "George" wrote in message ... "Dave Hinz" wrote in message ... On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 14:28:08 GMT, RoyJ wrote: You can do a nice job with one of the el-cheapo laser levels. This one is $10 at Harbor Freight. Problem with a laser level, is you get a nice straight line, but your level is only as good as that bubble on that tiny level. For a few feet, you're probably right on. But, how much error in that bubble would it take to be off by an inch, at 50 feet? Not a hell of a lot. Water is much more dependable, can't be mis-calibrated, and has been in use as a level for laying out buildings, since the pyramids were built. Exactly, the word "laser" makes it sound like no errors are possible even on an el-cheepo version. |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
What Bugs said. 100' is a bit much for the cheap laser levels but the
principle is the same. Bugs wrote: Laser levels, like all levels, need to be tested and adjusted before depending on them for a level line. The so-called peg test only takes a few minutes and assures you that the level is truly in adjustment. Use two points about 100 ft. apart for temporary bench marks. Set the level up close to one of the benchmarks. Take a rod reading on both benches and note the difference in elevation. Then move the level to a point near the other benchmark. Take another set of readings. The difference between the readings is approximately twice the error of the level. Adjust the level until both sets of readings are exactly the same. Then you have a level outlook on the world. Bugs |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
On 12 Mar 2005 04:11:41 -0800, "Bugs" vaguely
proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email Sorry, but can you enlarge on this? Not having a go. Firstly, the lasers we are talking about would not be anywyere near visible at more than maybe 20 feet. But apart from that I am not sure what you mean in your description. Are you talking about setting u0 the level, or calibrating it? With -some- of these levels, I am not sure they -can- be calibrated. If you move the level, and place it somewhere else, it will be out of whack again. What's a rod reading, and how do you ascertain the difference in elvation unless you have a level to refer to. Laser levels, like all levels, need to be tested and adjusted before depending on them for a level line. The so-called peg test only takes a few minutes and assures you that the level is truly in adjustment. Use two points about 100 ft. apart for temporary bench marks. Set the level up close to one of the benchmarks. Take a rod reading on both benches and note the difference in elevation. Then move the level to a point near the other benchmark. Take another set of readings. The difference between the readings is approximately twice the error of the level. Adjust the level until both sets of readings are exactly the same. Then you have a level outlook on the world. Bugs |
#31
|
|||
|
|||
On 12 Mar 2005 04:03:57 -0800, "Bugs" vaguely
proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email I think that for most backyard sheds, you are being a bit harsh. I have never had a compaction test done for shed soil, although I did for a house. Maybe we are lucky. This particular sand we use sets almost like sandstone even without compaction if you wet it well and let it dry. Compacting it while damp really settles it down, and unless you have a critical application hardness testing is not done. I agree with those comments. If you ever plan to install concrete, then the subgrade needs to be compacted to 95% of Standard Proctor, the fill material should be Base Course, as we call the graded material on this side of the pond, also at 95% Proctor. If you don't know what I'm talking about, you should hire an engineering firm to set the grades and inspect the work. Expensive, yes, but cheaper than doing it all over when everything fails in a few years. Bugs |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
What I described is a test of the level vial/s in relation to the
sight/laser beam. Adjustment is available on better quality levels. If they can only be read at 20 ft., then test them at that range. The test only involves measuring the difference in elevation between two solid points. The rod reading is simply a meter stick or tape measure set on the benchmark to measure the height of the level [laser line] above it. The level has to be adjusted carefully each time it is set up. If you have a more expensive 'automatic' level, the test checks the calibration of the pendulum mechanism, and should be adjustable. It's basically the same thing as testing a carpenter's level by leveling it up and reversing it to see if the bubble is true. If this is still too complicated, find a surveyor willing to take a few minutes and run the peg test.G Bugs |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
On 13 Mar 2005 06:32:23 -0800, "Bugs" vaguely
proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email Nooo, it's not complicated. But I think you are aiming above the OP's "cheap laser level". I was careful to ask whether you were referring to calibration, which in my opinion is what you are describing. I could see the poor guy trying to actually set the -vials- on the level by your method, from your original description. If this is still too complicated, find a surveyor willing to take a few minutes and run the peg test.G Bugs |
#34
|
|||
|
|||
On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 10:04:11 +0800, OldNick
vaguely proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email Bum! More like 35m3. sorry. 10 m * 10 m , starting at one corner at 150mm and having a max fall of 0.5 metres is mmmmm.... 20 m^3 with 45 degree fall on the batters? You may get away with "local dirt" for a bottom layer or two, but be careful, and check first if you are every going to concrete the floor, or the authorities are ever going to delve around. |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, the bubble/s are probably not adjustable. Someone bought me one of
the 'cheapies' and it's pretty primitive but the laser can be seen over a hundred feet. Beam spread is a problem, but I'm going to make it a little tripod base with three setscrews to use on a project I have. I'll probably put some correction marks on the bubble vial to true it up. I have several surveying instruments that can be used to set the bench marks, then I'll set the laser level to the BM's. Bugs |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
There's a simple way to check the calibration error on a level or a transit.
Shoot a line from one established height index to a distant pole. Then turn the level or transit 180 degrees, and shoot back from the new mark to the original index. Any calibration error will show (doubled) in the second shot, and allow you to adjust (if it's adjustable) back toward the correct alignment. Since it depends upon simple geometry and physics rather than a "standard level", it requires no special tools, and is as accurate as any method available. When the result of the second shot is on the original index, you're "spot on". LLoyd "Bugs" wrote in message oups.com... Yes, the bubble/s are probably not adjustable. Someone bought me one of the 'cheapies' and it's pretty primitive but the laser can be seen over a hundred feet. Beam spread is a problem, but I'm going to make it a little tripod base with three setscrews to use on a project I have. I'll probably put some correction marks on the bubble vial to true it up. I have several surveying instruments that can be used to set the bench marks, then I'll set the laser level to the BM's. Bugs |
#37
|
|||
|
|||
On 14 Mar 2005 05:20:14 -0800, "Bugs" vaguely
proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email Yes, the bubble/s are probably not adjustable. Someone bought me one of the 'cheapies' and it's pretty primitive but the laser can be seen over a hundred feet. Well it has to different from what I have seen, if you can see the beam on a target at 100', on a bright day. |
#38
|
|||
|
|||
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 07:37:20 +0800, OldNick
wrote: ===On 14 Mar 2005 05:20:14 -0800, "Bugs" vaguely ===proposed a theory ===......and in reply I say!: === === remove ns from my header address to reply via email === ===Yes, the bubble/s are probably not adjustable. Someone bought me one of ===the 'cheapies' and it's pretty primitive but the laser can be seen over ===a hundred feet. === ===Well it has to different from what I have seen, if you can see the ===beam on a target at 100', on a bright day. ============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! |
#39
|
|||
|
|||
FWIW, Wal Mart had laser levels priced at $24.95 before christmas, and after christmas they went down to 14.95 and then to 10.95..........and now they are listred in the clearance sectin at $3.00 a piece. I picked up one for the hell of it, not expecting much, and its claim to be able to throw a beam 120 feet +........well I knew darn well it would not be able to be seen during daylight hours, but my intent was to take it apart to make a l;aser sight for my shotgun with it.......I was totally amazed when I was able to throw a beam over my 1 acre pond (200+ feet) in broad daylight...........I sighted it from my spillway to my pump box approx 110 feet just to check water height to bottom of box....Works fine....comes with 2 spirt levels in an extruded aluminum tube, with a lifetime warranty. I have since bought 6 more, and turned two into laser sights for my shotguns. OAL is 16 or 18 inches, lifetime warranty made by Johnson Tools in Tennesee, (but its actually made in China IIRC) Hard to beat for three bucks On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 07:37:20 +0800, OldNick wrote: ===On 14 Mar 2005 05:20:14 -0800, "Bugs" vaguely ===proposed a theory ===......and in reply I say!: === === remove ns from my header address to reply via email === ===Yes, the bubble/s are probably not adjustable. Someone bought me one of ===the 'cheapies' and it's pretty primitive but the laser can be seen over ===a hundred feet. === ===Well it has to different from what I have seen, if you can see the ===beam on a target at 100', on a bright day. ============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! |
#40
|
|||
|
|||
|
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Best way to level lot for pole barn | Home Repair | |||
level mystery | Woodworking | |||
Dimming Lights in Barn (underground wire) | Home Repair | |||
Laser level??? Sorta........ | Metalworking | |||
Grounding for electric service to new barn | Home Repair |