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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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bike lights
Making some bike lights for my daughter who rides her bicycle in
traffic in Brooklyn NY. I'm playing with some red Luxeon LED's, powered from 3 NiMH rechargable penlight cells. These suckers are seriously bright. I noted that the one I was running looked yellow (not red) from a distance of 100 feet -- but when I looked away for a bit and then looked back they looked red agan for an instant. WTF, over? When I walked back I noted that the spill on the table looked red. Geez, maybe I overloaded my red receptors? I turned down the current to 30% by soldering in another dropping resistor. Sure enough, it then looked red at 100 feet. Wondering why everything looks green now....... |
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So, what were you doing in the '60s and '70s? Consequences of early
life-choices? "Don Foreman" wrote in message ... Making some bike lights for my daughter who rides her bicycle in traffic in Brooklyn NY. I'm playing with some red Luxeon LED's, powered from 3 NiMH rechargable penlight cells. These suckers are seriously bright. I noted that the one I was running looked yellow (not red) from a distance of 100 feet -- but when I looked away for a bit and then looked back they looked red agan for an instant. WTF, over? When I walked back I noted that the spill on the table looked red. Geez, maybe I overloaded my red receptors? I turned down the current to 30% by soldering in another dropping resistor. Sure enough, it then looked red at 100 feet. Wondering why everything looks green now....... |
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Wrecking my hearing, vision escaped intact -- I think.....
On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 13:15:30 GMT, "Tom Gardner" wrote: So, what were you doing in the '60s and '70s? Consequences of early life-choices? "Don Foreman" wrote in message .. . Making some bike lights for my daughter who rides her bicycle in traffic in Brooklyn NY. I'm playing with some red Luxeon LED's, powered from 3 NiMH rechargable penlight cells. These suckers are seriously bright. I noted that the one I was running looked yellow (not red) from a distance of 100 feet -- but when I looked away for a bit and then looked back they looked red agan for an instant. WTF, over? When I walked back I noted that the spill on the table looked red. Geez, maybe I overloaded my red receptors? I turned down the current to 30% by soldering in another dropping resistor. Sure enough, it then looked red at 100 feet. Wondering why everything looks green now....... |
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-- "Don Foreman" wrote in message ... Making some bike lights for my daughter who rides her bicycle in traffic in Brooklyn NY. I'm playing with some red Luxeon LED's, powered from 3 NiMH rechargable penlight cells. These suckers are seriously bright. I noted that the one I was running looked yellow (not red) from a distance of 100 feet -- but when I looked away for a bit and then looked back they looked red agan for an instant. WTF, over? When I walked back I noted that the spill on the table looked red. Geez, maybe I overloaded my red receptors? I turned down the current to 30% by soldering in another dropping resistor. Sure enough, it then looked red at 100 feet. Wondering why everything looks green now....... The bicycle news groups has discussed LED lights often. On this page and others are some of the light that I have made. http://www.billcotton.com/bicycle_electric.htm My first LED light were from mounting the 15 LED Mag type flashlights that Harbor Freight sells, on my bicycle. These flashlight get maximum brightness and short life by putting 4+ volts on the LEDs. Another light was made by modifying a one LED head lamp from HF to accept a 1156 LED replacement bulb and a 12 volt supply. http://www.billcotton.com/bicycle_el...20LED%20lights www.billcotton.com N40° 3.744' W75° 6.180' |
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Update:
I found some small trailer marker lights at Northern Tool for about 2 bux. I bought one to cut apart for the lens. The Luxeons I bought are Lambertian emitters. Their radiation pattern is more like a small filament bulb than a conventional LED. I therefore thought perhaps a lens devised for use with a small filament bulb might work well. It does. The red Luxeon behind that lens is noticable even in direct sunlight. I tried it tonight with two 60-watt patio lights and two 100-watt PAR floods illuminating the backyard to provide some competition like citylight in Brooklyn will provide. I walked back 100 feet to check it out from there. Uh...wow. I think this dog will hunt. On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 01:48:36 -0500, Don Foreman wrote: Making some bike lights for my daughter who rides her bicycle in traffic in Brooklyn NY. |
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Nice report, Don! Thanx. Do you know if the manufacturers have data books
out yet on the new hi-power leds? Bob Swinney "Don Foreman" wrote in message ... Update: I found some small trailer marker lights at Northern Tool for about 2 bux. I bought one to cut apart for the lens. The Luxeons I bought are Lambertian emitters. Their radiation pattern is more like a small filament bulb than a conventional LED. I therefore thought perhaps a lens devised for use with a small filament bulb might work well. It does. The red Luxeon behind that lens is noticable even in direct sunlight. I tried it tonight with two 60-watt patio lights and two 100-watt PAR floods illuminating the backyard to provide some competition like citylight in Brooklyn will provide. I walked back 100 feet to check it out from there. Uh...wow. I think this dog will hunt. On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 01:48:36 -0500, Don Foreman wrote: Making some bike lights for my daughter who rides her bicycle in traffic in Brooklyn NY. |
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Don't know about books, but datasheets on the Luxeon's are available
for download. The one I'm using is at http://www.lumileds.com/pdfs/protected/DS25.PDF There are also 3-watt and 5-watt versions. http://www.lumileds.com/docs.cfm?docType=3 Jerry and I each made pretty awesome flashlights with 3-watt white Luxeons. I prefer to buy the bare emitters rather than the "stars" and machine (METAL CONTENT) little studs that I epoxy them to with Omegabond epoxy. I can get them further into a reflector that way. Osram also offers some bright LED's. Digi-Key even carries them. They're not as bright as the Luxeons, but a couple of them are close. These LED's are really fun to play with! On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 11:32:05 -0500, "Robert Swinney" wrote: Nice report, Don! Thanx. Do you know if the manufacturers have data books out yet on the new hi-power leds? Bob Swinney "Don Foreman" wrote in message .. . Update: I found some small trailer marker lights at Northern Tool for about 2 bux. I bought one to cut apart for the lens. The Luxeons I bought are Lambertian emitters. Their radiation pattern is more like a small filament bulb than a conventional LED. I therefore thought perhaps a lens devised for use with a small filament bulb might work well. It does. The red Luxeon behind that lens is noticable even in direct sunlight. I tried it tonight with two 60-watt patio lights and two 100-watt PAR floods illuminating the backyard to provide some competition like citylight in Brooklyn will provide. I walked back 100 feet to check it out from there. Uh...wow. I think this dog will hunt. On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 01:48:36 -0500, Don Foreman wrote: Making some bike lights for my daughter who rides her bicycle in traffic in Brooklyn NY. |
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Don Foreman wrote:
I prefer to buy the bare emitters rather than the "stars" and machine (METAL CONTENT) little studs that I epoxy them to with Omegabond epoxy. I can get them further into a reflector that way. Is there something special about Omegabond compared to other epoxies? Ted |
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What's that Lassie? You say that Don Foreman fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue by Tue, 07 Sep 2004 16:58:57 -0500: Don't know about books, but datasheets on the Luxeon's are available for download. The one I'm using is at http://www.lumileds.com/pdfs/protected/DS25.PDF There are also 3-watt and 5-watt versions. Lots of good stuff about LED flashlights he http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubb...reads.php?Cat= -- Dan |
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It's designed to have high thermal conductivity. Other filled epoxies
might work as well. "Ted Edwards" wrote in message ... Don Foreman wrote: I prefer to buy the bare emitters rather than the "stars" and machine (METAL CONTENT) little studs that I epoxy them to with Omegabond epoxy. I can get them further into a reflector that way. Is there something special about Omegabond compared to other epoxies? Ted |
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Don Foreman wrote:
It's designed to have high thermal conductivity. Other filled epoxies might work as well. Any idea what the filler is? Aluminum powder maybe? Ted |
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Doubt it. It's white in color, with very low electricl conductivity
for use with thermocouples. Specs for OB-101 at http://www.omega.com/Temperature/pdf...200_OT-200.pdf "Ted Edwards" wrote in message ... Don Foreman wrote: It's designed to have high thermal conductivity. Other filled epoxies might work as well. Any idea what the filler is? Aluminum powder maybe? Ted |
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In article , Ted Edwards says...
Don Foreman wrote: It's designed to have high thermal conductivity. Other filled epoxies might work as well. Any idea what the filler is? Aluminum powder maybe? In some cases (emerson and cummings 2850 epoxy) the filler is aluminum oxide powder - sapphire. They also make a 1299 epoxy with quartz microspheres as the filler. I guess if I were doing this and needed high thermal conductivity I would go with EpoTech's silver-filled epoxy, like the H20S. Nice stuff. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
#14
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The high electrical conductivity of H20S could be a nuisance when mounting
Luxeon emitters -- or thermcouples. Omegabond 101 works fine here. Temp rise in the joint is about negligible, it's relatively inexpensive and readily available. There are certainly other epoxies that would also work well. Luxeon recommends several . "jim rozen" wrote in message ... In article , Ted Edwards says... I guess if I were doing this and needed high thermal conductivity I would go with EpoTech's silver-filled epoxy, like the H20S. Nice stuff. |
#15
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In article , Don Foreman says...
The high electrical conductivity of H20S could be a nuisance when mounting Luxeon emitters -- or thermcouples. Right. I mentioned it as an example of a really high thermal conductive adhesive. Obviously it will short out whatever electrical contacts is covers. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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