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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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I have a customer that among other things, rewinds obsolete air coil
electric motors. He has asked me about building a dyno so he can test motors to something other than 'yep, it turns' under power. Looking through SIC I only find one article on building a dyno. It looks to be a fair bit of work. As he called me while on the road today and the connection was bad, we couldn't really get into details. I am unsure what HP and torque the motors develop, though it's not a lot. I also don't know what rpm range he wants to test. Did a bit of Googling and didn't find a whole lot on small model engine sized dyno building. Anyone know about web resources for different approaches? Thanks, Jon Anderson |
#2
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Jon
I recently built a dyno for testing 3 phase motors. It'll probably handle 10 HP. It uses a spinning aluminum disc for the load. I mounted an electromagnet that is free to rotate about the disc's axis. As the magnetic field strength is increased, the spinning disc tries to force the magnet to rotate. Its rotation is restricted by a pressure sensor. I use a couple of multimeters to record the pressure and RPM then let Excel do all the HP computational work. It seems real easy, now that I have finished it. Fitch got me started and showed me how to use Excel. Then Don Foreman was patient enough to guide me thru the refinement of this dyno till he finally got me to do it right. If your friend wants to know about dyno design, get in contact with Don Foreman. If your friend wants pictures, I can show him what I have here. Jerry "Jon Anderson" wrote in message ... I have a customer that among other things, rewinds obsolete air coil electric motors. He has asked me about building a dyno so he can test motors to something other than 'yep, it turns' under power. Looking through SIC I only find one article on building a dyno. It looks to be a fair bit of work. As he called me while on the road today and the connection was bad, we couldn't really get into details. I am unsure what HP and torque the motors develop, though it's not a lot. I also don't know what rpm range he wants to test. Did a bit of Googling and didn't find a whole lot on small model engine sized dyno building. Anyone know about web resources for different approaches? Thanks, Jon Anderson |
#3
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On Fri, 03 Sep 2004 18:14:07 -0700, Jon Anderson
wrote: I have a customer that among other things, rewinds obsolete air coil electric motors. He has asked me about building a dyno so he can test motors to something other than 'yep, it turns' under power. But you don't necessarily need to know what the precise horsepower output is? Provided that it is 'as good as the other ones we fixed'? I don't know about the kind of motor you are working with, but many electric motors when turned work as generators. Could you make up a load bank of band iron strips and test the rewound motors by coupling them to a generator (motor) whose output can be measured as this many watts therefor that much horsepower? |
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Can't help much without knowing some parameters like:
range of speeds range of power in watts or HP required (or hoped-for) accuracy available skills (machining, welding, building electronics, etc) budget -- time and $ Speed and power range would narrow down the choices of the several ways one could make a dyno. Hoped-for accuracy, available skills and budget could save a lot of time if expectations for given resources are clearly not consistent. Another poster suggests a DCPM motor and load resistor. If just a "go-nogo" test is sought, that would be a good solution with the addition of an inexpensive voltmeter. On Fri, 03 Sep 2004 18:14:07 -0700, Jon Anderson wrote: I have a customer that among other things, rewinds obsolete air coil electric motors. He has asked me about building a dyno so he can test motors to something other than 'yep, it turns' under power. Looking through SIC I only find one article on building a dyno. It looks to be a fair bit of work. As he called me while on the road today and the connection was bad, we couldn't really get into details. I am unsure what HP and torque the motors develop, though it's not a lot. I also don't know what rpm range he wants to test. Did a bit of Googling and didn't find a whole lot on small model engine sized dyno building. Anyone know about web resources for different approaches? Thanks, Jon Anderson |
#5
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John,
Cell phone connection was very bad, so we couldn't discuss details. He'd first mentioned it last week and I'd gotten as far as some Google work and finding the SIC article. He called today as he just found out he has a couple warranty motors coming back. It's rare for him to get a warranty return and bugs him a great deal, he wants to get to the root of the problem. Currently has no means to quantify performance. They are, his description, air coil, or ironless rotor motors. Fast response, low inertia, low HP. While he has known good motors (not rebuilt), I don't know if he also has any specs. I'll know more when my customer gets back next week. Did tell him I needed to know what he was trying to measure. Going to complicate things if he needs to measure say, rate of acceleration, etc... At the bottom of the learning curve, Jon |
#6
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Jerry,
I'd love to see a pic, I'm the one that's going to be building whatever he ends up using, and I'll be showing him the pic when he comes by next week. Will be contacting Don directly, thanks for the referral! Jon |
#7
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Don,
Ahh, my email and your post crossed on the wires! Will have some specs when he gets back, until then I'm just trying to do some basic research. As far as skills, I can machine and weld up most anything needed, but electronics theory is a real weak point. I can build simple circuits from schematics but if something doesn't work, I'll probably never figure out why by myself. Thanks, Jon |
#8
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i have a homebrew rolling road dyno.
There are a couple out there for RC boat motors, etc. Mine is at http://pages.quicksilver.net.nz/geoffm/ with some how-to-do it info. Geoff |
#9
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On Fri, 03 Sep 2004 18:14:07 -0700, Jon Anderson wrote:
I have a customer that among other things, rewinds obsolete air coil electric motors. He has asked me about building a dyno so he can test motors to something other than 'yep, it turns' under power. Looking through SIC I only find one article on building a dyno. It looks to be a fair bit of work. As he called me while on the road today and the connection was bad, we couldn't really get into details. I am unsure what HP and torque the motors develop, though it's not a lot. I also don't know what rpm range he wants to test. Did a bit of Googling and didn't find a whole lot on small model engine sized dyno building. Anyone know about web resources for different approaches? I don't have a URL for you, but I can give a verbal description of a simple brake dyno. It is simply a brake disc which can be directly coupled to the motor output shaft. A brake caliper is mounted on a lever which pivots from the shaft and is restrained at the far end by a spring scale. If the lever is 1 foot, the scale can be read directly in foot pounds. If longer or shorter, you have to do a bit of simple math to convert the reading to foot pounds. To use, simply apply hydraulic pressure to the caliper until the motor slows to the desired RPM. Read the spring scale. That's the motor torque at that RPM. RPM times torque equals power. By braking to a number of different RPMs and taking readings, you can construct a graph of torque and power versus RPM just like the big guys with the expensive engine dynos do. If you add a current shunt to monitor motor current, you can also plot motor current at various loads. For motors up to several hp, you can cobble this together from junk car parts (rotor, caliper, master cylinder) and a household scale. Note, when braking heavily, the brake will get hot. Don't fool around, take your reading then let off on brake pressure and let it spin to cool. For fractional hp motors, a motorcycle brake, or even a bicycle caliper brake, can be used instead of an auto brake. A smaller spring scale can be used too. Gary |
#10
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OK, no problem. We can sort out the elex, may not even need any.
Jerry uses a couple of Extech multimeters that interface to his PC. Instrumentation is an Omega LCL series loadcell (0 to 20 lb), and speed sensing is done by sensing teeth in a gearlike disc and logging the frequency with an Extech. Excel does the math. A dyno consists three key elements: something that produces drag, something that senses torque and something that senses speed. Torque could be sense with something as simple as a spring scale, relative speed by the voltage output of a little DCPM motor. How the drag part get done depends a lot on speed and power. For fractional HP if speed is high enough, the simplest way is probably a larger DCPM motor with a resistive load. On Fri, 03 Sep 2004 21:21:22 -0700, Jon Anderson wrote: Don, Ahh, my email and your post crossed on the wires! Will have some specs when he gets back, until then I'm just trying to do some basic research. As far as skills, I can machine and weld up most anything needed, but electronics theory is a real weak point. I can build simple circuits from schematics but if something doesn't work, I'll probably never figure out why by myself. Thanks, Jon |
#11
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Disc brakes have their problems for a motor testing dyno, particularly
in testing induction motors. Speed must be maintained very closely because the torque-speed is so steep -- 0 to rated horsepower in a range of about 75 RPM or about 4%. The slightest bit of chatter can really screw things up, even with a newly turned disc and new pads. We solved that problem on Jerry's dyno by going to eddy current braking in an aluminum disc. That was very easy to control and it was more stable than a disc brake because it's more "viscous": drag increases with increasing speed. A DCPM motor with external resistive load would have that characteristic as well. Even an ordinary induction motor with DC on its windings can work well as a brake, , though it'll get hot if run very long. On Sat, 04 Sep 2004 16:09:28 -0400, Gary Coffman wrote: On Fri, 03 Sep 2004 18:14:07 -0700, Jon Anderson wrote: I have a customer that among other things, rewinds obsolete air coil electric motors. He has asked me about building a dyno so he can test motors to something other than 'yep, it turns' under power. Looking through SIC I only find one article on building a dyno. It looks to be a fair bit of work. As he called me while on the road today and the connection was bad, we couldn't really get into details. I am unsure what HP and torque the motors develop, though it's not a lot. I also don't know what rpm range he wants to test. Did a bit of Googling and didn't find a whole lot on small model engine sized dyno building. Anyone know about web resources for different approaches? I don't have a URL for you, but I can give a verbal description of a simple brake dyno. It is simply a brake disc which can be directly coupled to the motor output shaft. A brake caliper is mounted on a lever which pivots from the shaft and is restrained at the far end by a spring scale. If the lever is 1 foot, the scale can be read directly in foot pounds. If longer or shorter, you have to do a bit of simple math to convert the reading to foot pounds. To use, simply apply hydraulic pressure to the caliper until the motor slows to the desired RPM. Read the spring scale. That's the motor torque at that RPM. RPM times torque equals power. By braking to a number of different RPMs and taking readings, you can construct a graph of torque and power versus RPM just like the big guys with the expensive engine dynos do. If you add a current shunt to monitor motor current, you can also plot motor current at various loads. For motors up to several hp, you can cobble this together from junk car parts (rotor, caliper, master cylinder) and a household scale. Note, when braking heavily, the brake will get hot. Don't fool around, take your reading then let off on brake pressure and let it spin to cool. For fractional hp motors, a motorcycle brake, or even a bicycle caliper brake, can be used instead of an auto brake. A smaller spring scale can be used too. Gary |
#12
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In article ,
Jon Anderson wrote: I have a customer that among other things, rewinds obsolete air coil electric motors. He has asked me about building a dyno so he can test motors to something other than 'yep, it turns' under power. Looking through SIC I only find one article on building a dyno. It looks to be a fair bit of work. As he called me while on the road today and the connection was bad, we couldn't really get into details. I am unsure what HP and torque the motors develop, though it's not a lot. I also don't know what rpm range he wants to test. Did a bit of Googling and didn't find a whole lot on small model engine sized dyno building. Anyone know about web resources for different approaches? Thanks, Jon Anderson I had a teacher who built a dyno with a hydraulic pump & a flow meter. He'd use a valve to build up back pressure and monitor the flow. After allowing for pump efficiency he could calculate the horsepower running through the system. Knowing pump displacement he could calculate RPM. Simple and scalable to just about any size you need. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail.net |
#13
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In article ,
Jon Anderson wrote: John, [ ... ] Currently has no means to quantify performance. They are, his description, air coil, or ironless rotor motors. Fast response, low inertia, low HP. These sound like the servo motors used in CNC machine tools. The low rotating mass leaves you with only the mass of the table and workpiece (or whatever else is being moved) to tune. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#14
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![]() "B.B." u wrote in message news ![]() In article , Jon Anderson wrote: I have a customer that among other things, rewinds obsolete air coil electric motors. He has asked me about building a dyno so he can test motors to something other than 'yep, it turns' under power. Looking through SIC I only find one article on building a dyno. It looks to be a fair bit of work. As he called me while on the road today and the connection was bad, we couldn't really get into details. I am unsure what HP and torque the motors develop, though it's not a lot. I also don't know what rpm range he wants to test. Did a bit of Googling and didn't find a whole lot on small model engine sized dyno building. Anyone know about web resources for different approaches? Thanks, Jon Anderson I had a teacher who built a dyno with a hydraulic pump & a flow meter. He'd use a valve to build up back pressure and monitor the flow. After allowing for pump efficiency he could calculate the horsepower running through the system. Knowing pump displacement he could calculate RPM. Simple and scalable to just about any size you need. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail.net BB I've got a little pump-dyno here where I mounted the pump so it is free to rotate. Then, when the flow is restricted, the pump tries to rotate. When I measure the torque imposed on the pump and the shaft RPM, I assume I can calculate HP with Excel. But, the idea of several GPM at a thousnd + PSI scares me enough that I dont want to test it in the garage. I might get courage to test it on a fractional HP motor. All the other dyno loads I've tried get too hot when loaded for even a few minutes. Water spray helps extend the test run time, but even the water makes a little mess. Jerry |
#15
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In article gIw_c.2426$j62.422@trnddc04,
"Jerry Martes" wrote: [...] Anyone know about web resources for different approaches? Thanks, Jon Anderson I had a teacher who built a dyno with a hydraulic pump & a flow meter. He'd use a valve to build up back pressure and monitor the flow. After allowing for pump efficiency he could calculate the horsepower running through the system. Knowing pump displacement he could calculate RPM. Simple and scalable to just about any size you need. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail.net BB I've got a little pump-dyno here where I mounted the pump so it is free to rotate. Then, when the flow is restricted, the pump tries to rotate. When I measure the torque imposed on the pump and the shaft RPM, I assume I can calculate HP with Excel. But, the idea of several GPM at a thousnd + PSI scares me enough that I dont want to test it in the garage. I might get courage to test it on a fractional HP motor. All the other dyno loads I've tried get too hot when loaded for even a few minutes. Water spray helps extend the test run time, but even the water makes a little mess. Jerry I believe that if you measure only the torque load of the pump trying to twist loose you'll only be able to calculate pressure--you would still need to know flow rate coming out of the pump. I suppose if you know the pump RPM and the pump's efficiency you could calculate the flow. But you'd need to recalibrate your setup occasionally as the pump wears. If you're worried about the hydraulics blowing up you only need to have pressure-rated hardware from the pump through the flow meter, to the restricter valve. Outside of that area everything will stay low-pressure. Many pumps come with a built-in relief valve so you can set that to keep the system from exploding if you crank the valve down all the way. And many flow meters come with a built-in restriction valve, so you won't need to worry about that either. The two dangers with a hydraulic system are pinhole leaks and a burst throwing hardware. Use pressure-rated hardware and keep a relief valve set slightly below the working pressures and you'll be fine. If you use a large enough pump you could even do all of your dynoing at only a few hundred PSI--but that gets somewhat expensive and less accurate. I didn't study my teacher's dyno too closely, but from what I could see he apparently used an old drum as a reservoir to allow the oil to cool. It was actually quite a clean setup--I only saw oil residue around the vent on the barrel. FWIW he used his to test transmissions he built and had a chevy V8 driving them. His dyno never had a problem with high horsepower. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail.net |
#16
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Don,
Can't say exactly what the motors are used for, but it's not CNC. I can say though, the overall technology is 30+ years old and the original manufacturer is on record saying nobody could successfully rebuild them. My customer enjoyed the challenge! Jon |
#17
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![]() "B.B." u wrote in message news ![]() In article gIw_c.2426$j62.422@trnddc04, "Jerry Martes" wrote: [...] Anyone know about web resources for different approaches? Thanks, Jon Anderson I had a teacher who built a dyno with a hydraulic pump & a flow meter. He'd use a valve to build up back pressure and monitor the flow. After allowing for pump efficiency he could calculate the horsepower running through the system. Knowing pump displacement he could calculate RPM. Simple and scalable to just about any size you need. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail.net BB I've got a little pump-dyno here where I mounted the pump so it is free to rotate. Then, when the flow is restricted, the pump tries to rotate. When I measure the torque imposed on the pump and the shaft RPM, I assume I can calculate HP with Excel. But, the idea of several GPM at a thousnd + PSI scares me enough that I dont want to test it in the garage. I might get courage to test it on a fractional HP motor. All the other dyno loads I've tried get too hot when loaded for even a few minutes. Water spray helps extend the test run time, but even the water makes a little mess. Jerry I believe that if you measure only the torque load of the pump trying to twist loose you'll only be able to calculate pressure--you would still need to know flow rate coming out of the pump. I suppose if you know the pump RPM and the pump's efficiency you could calculate the flow. But you'd need to recalibrate your setup occasionally as the pump wears. If you're worried about the hydraulics blowing up you only need to have pressure-rated hardware from the pump through the flow meter, to the restricter valve. Outside of that area everything will stay low-pressure. Many pumps come with a built-in relief valve so you can set that to keep the system from exploding if you crank the valve down all the way. And many flow meters come with a built-in restriction valve, so you won't need to worry about that either. The two dangers with a hydraulic system are pinhole leaks and a burst throwing hardware. Use pressure-rated hardware and keep a relief valve set slightly below the working pressures and you'll be fine. If you use a large enough pump you could even do all of your dynoing at only a few hundred PSI--but that gets somewhat expensive and less accurate. I didn't study my teacher's dyno too closely, but from what I could see he apparently used an old drum as a reservoir to allow the oil to cool. It was actually quite a clean setup--I only saw oil residue around the vent on the barrel. FWIW he used his to test transmissions he built and had a chevy V8 driving them. His dyno never had a problem with high horsepower. -- B.B. BB I dont know how to measure flow. I could probably learn But, I think here is no need to measure flow in the hydraulic path in order to measure motor HP. The pump is doing the work on the fluid. The motor supplies the power to the pump. I wanted to know only how muvh work the motor is doing. It is pretty essy to measure and record motor RPM. I figure the pump could be mounted firmly and measure the motor's torque with the motor base free to spin - or - Mount the motor firmly and allow the pump to rotate. I'm pretty confidant the motor's HP can be calculated by measurement of the pump's shaft RPM and the pump Torque. Although I did get a pump and valve that are rated for the pressure I'd generate, I got woried about the 1,500 PSI finding some way of making me realize I had made some mistake. 1,500 PSI and 5 GPM of hydraulic oil could make my garage look terrible. I'll test it outside whenever I do need to load a motor for more than 5 or 10 minutes. Jerry |
#18
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On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 17:39:45 GMT, "Jerry Martes" wrote:
I dont know how to measure flow. I could probably learn But, I think here is no need to measure flow in the hydraulic path in order to measure motor HP. The pump is doing the work on the fluid. The motor supplies the power to the pump. I wanted to know only how muvh work the motor is doing. It is pretty essy to measure and record motor RPM. I figure the pump could be mounted firmly and measure the motor's torque with the motor base free to spin - or - Mount the motor firmly and allow the pump to rotate. I'm pretty confidant the motor's HP can be calculated by measurement of the pump's shaft RPM and the pump Torque. Yes. You are simply using the pump as an adjustable brake. You don't need to know, or care, what the pump's efficiency is. You don't need to know or care what pressure or flow it produces. All you need to know to calculate motor hp is RPM and torque. A load cell, or even a lever arm and spring scale, restraining the pump from rotating will give you torque. You can measure RPM directly. hp = RPM x torque. Gary |
#19
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#20
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In article , dnichols@d-
and-d.com says... In article , Jon Anderson wrote: John, [ ... ] Currently has no means to quantify performance. They are, his description, air coil, or ironless rotor motors. Fast response, low inertia, low HP. These sound like the servo motors used in CNC machine tools. The low rotating mass leaves you with only the mass of the table and workpiece (or whatever else is being moved) to tune. Unless the load is very large, or the stroke very short, the largest inertia the motor in a screw driven postioning system sees is usually the screw itself. Ned Simmons |
#21
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![]() "Ned Simmons" wrote in message ... In article gIw_c.2426$j62.422@trnddc04, says... I've got a little pump-dyno here where I mounted the pump so it is free to rotate. Then, when the flow is restricted, the pump tries to rotate. When I measure the torque imposed on the pump and the shaft RPM, I assume I can calculate HP with Excel. But, the idea of several GPM at a thousnd + PSI scares me enough that I dont want to test it in the garage. I might get courage to test it on a fractional HP motor. All the other dyno loads I've tried get too hot when loaded for even a few minutes. Water spray helps extend the test run time, but even the water makes a little mess. Jerry If the hydraulics are done properly I wouldn't be too concerned. I've got the schematics here for a 100 HP test stand I designed and built for one of the big hydraulics mfrs. for testing high speed hydraulic pumps and motors. As well as testing both pumps and motors, it checked volumetric efficiency and went thru an automated sequence while logging data, so I'm sure it's much more elaborate than what you've got, but if you're interested in the schematics let me know. Ned Simmons Ned My problems are associated with a poor decission I made in the design of this little dyno. I wanted the drag on the load's rotation to be minimal. So, I made the lines into and out of the pump as flexible as possible. I thought the output hose could be "light weight" because it is such low pressiure. My brother-in-law spent his life designing hydraulics for Northrop. He told me storries about high pressure liquids punching small holes in outlet hoses due to some caracteristic of high pressure pumps. I thought -- Oh Sh*t. Since I have other things to occupy my time, I dropped that dyno for a while. I appreciate your offer to share your dyno information with me. I wish I could get involved with a project that uses a big dyno. What kind of instruments do you use to log the data. I got a Lab Jack but get confused about how to use it. Jerry. |
#22
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![]() "Jerry Martes" wrote in message news:5lS_c.4605$vI2.1373@trnddc02... "Ned Simmons" wrote in message ... In article gIw_c.2426$j62.422@trnddc04, says... I've got a little pump-dyno here where I mounted the pump so it is free to rotate. Then, when the flow is restricted, the pump tries to rotate. When I measure the torque imposed on the pump and the shaft RPM, I assume I can calculate HP with Excel. But, the idea of several GPM at a thousnd + PSI scares me enough that I dont want to test it in the garage. I might get courage to test it on a fractional HP motor. All the other dyno loads I've tried get too hot when loaded for even a few minutes. Water spray helps extend the test run time, but even the water makes a little mess. Jerry If the hydraulics are done properly I wouldn't be too concerned. I've got the schematics here for a 100 HP test stand I designed and built for one of the big hydraulics mfrs. for testing high speed hydraulic pumps and motors. As well as testing both pumps and motors, it checked volumetric efficiency and went thru an automated sequence while logging data, so I'm sure it's much more elaborate than what you've got, but if you're interested in the schematics let me know. Ned Simmons Ned My problems are associated with a poor decission I made in the design of this little dyno. I wanted the drag on the load's rotation to be minimal. So, I made the lines into and out of the pump as flexible as possible. I thought the output hose could be "light weight" because it is such low pressiure. My brother-in-law spent his life designing hydraulics for Northrop. He told me storries about high pressure liquids punching small holes in outlet hoses due to some caracteristic of high pressure pumps. I thought -- Oh Sh*t. Since I have other things to occupy my time, I dropped that dyno for a while. I appreciate your offer to share your dyno information with me. I wish I could get involved with a project that uses a big dyno. What kind of instruments do you use to log the data. I got a Lab Jack but get confused about how to use it. Jerry. The go kart guys have all sorts of unique "dynos". Your eddy current one sounds pretty cute though. |
#23
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In article ,
Jon Anderson wrote: Don, Can't say exactly what the motors are used for, but it's not CNC. I can say though, the overall technology is 30+ years old and the original manufacturer is on record saying nobody could successfully rebuild them. My customer enjoyed the challenge! I *like* that. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#24
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![]() "Rick" wrote in message ink.net... "Jerry Martes" wrote in message news:5lS_c.4605$vI2.1373@trnddc02... "Ned Simmons" wrote in message ... In article gIw_c.2426$j62.422@trnddc04, says... I've got a little pump-dyno here where I mounted the pump so it is free to rotate. Then, when the flow is restricted, the pump tries to rotate. When I measure the torque imposed on the pump and the shaft RPM, I assume I can calculate HP with Excel. But, the idea of several GPM at a thousnd + PSI scares me enough that I dont want to test it in the garage. I might get courage to test it on a fractional HP motor. All the other dyno loads I've tried get too hot when loaded for even a few minutes. Water spray helps extend the test run time, but even the water makes a little mess. Jerry If the hydraulics are done properly I wouldn't be too concerned. I've got the schematics here for a 100 HP test stand I designed and built for one of the big hydraulics mfrs. for testing high speed hydraulic pumps and motors. As well as testing both pumps and motors, it checked volumetric efficiency and went thru an automated sequence while logging data, so I'm sure it's much more elaborate than what you've got, but if you're interested in the schematics let me know. Ned Simmons Ned My problems are associated with a poor decission I made in the design of this little dyno. I wanted the drag on the load's rotation to be minimal. So, I made the lines into and out of the pump as flexible as possible. I thought the output hose could be "light weight" because it is such low pressiure. My brother-in-law spent his life designing hydraulics for Northrop. He told me storries about high pressure liquids punching small holes in outlet hoses due to some caracteristic of high pressure pumps. I thought -- Oh Sh*t. Since I have other things to occupy my time, I dropped that dyno for a while. I appreciate your offer to share your dyno information with me. I wish I could get involved with a project that uses a big dyno. What kind of instruments do you use to log the data. I got a Lab Jack but get confused about how to use it. Jerry. The go kart guys have all sorts of unique "dynos". Your eddy current one sounds pretty cute though. Rick I didnt do much research on dynos before I began building mine. I did try to understand the "Inertia Dyno" that is used for Kart engine testing. I would think the inertia Dyno would be hard to beat for Kart engines. I suspect there much better versions of the eddy current dyno that the one I built. The only good thing I have to say about this spinning aluminum disc it "it is easy to build and operate at home". Don Foreman actually suggestedthis concept to me (spinning aluminum disc). It was too simple to ignore. It is really easy to control so the data is quite repeatable. The disc brake loads I *was* building are very difficult to make smooth. They tend to skew the data due to pulsating effects from any small imperfections in the disc and/or caliper. I doubt that anything I know about eddy current dynos would be interesting to anyone in the Kart business. I just sold my Kart this week. Jerry |
#25
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![]() "Jerry Martes" wrote in message news:M1T_c.2196$Va5.1860@trnddc01... The go kart guys have all sorts of unique "dynos". Your eddy current one sounds pretty cute though. Rick I didnt do much research on dynos before I began building mine. I did try to understand the "Inertia Dyno" that is used for Kart engine testing. I would think the inertia Dyno would be hard to beat for Kart engines. I suspect there much better versions of the eddy current dyno that the one I built. The only good thing I have to say about this spinning aluminum disc it "it is easy to build and operate at home". Don Foreman actually suggestedthis concept to me (spinning aluminum disc). It was too simple to ignore. It is really easy to control so the data is quite repeatable. The disc brake loads I *was* building are very difficult to make smooth. They tend to skew the data due to pulsating effects from any small imperfections in the disc and/or caliper. I doubt that anything I know about eddy current dynos would be interesting to anyone in the Kart business. I just sold my Kart this week. Jerry These guys have some neat little ones, too: http://www.land-and-sea.com/kart-dyn...rrent-dyno.htm All depends on what they are looking for. Inductors are reliable and used extensively. Can't beat them for simplicity, but you can't beat a good DC machine for versatility... |
#26
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In article 5lS_c.4605$vI2.1373@trnddc02,
"Jerry Martes" wrote: [...] My problems are associated with a poor decission I made in the design of this little dyno. I wanted the drag on the load's rotation to be minimal. So, I made the lines into and out of the pump as flexible as possible. I thought the output hose could be "light weight" because it is such low pressiure. My brother-in-law spent his life designing hydraulics for Northrop. He told me storries about high pressure liquids punching small holes in outlet hoses due to some caracteristic of high pressure pumps. I thought -- Oh Sh*t. Since I have other things to occupy my time, I dropped that dyno for a while. Unless you wind it up really tight or kink it a hose rated for 6,000 PSI working pressure would have to be spiked up well over 6,000 PSI many times before developing a pinhole. Even then it's not very likely. Also, the pinhole leaks are easily contained with a plastic hose wrap. It's just a plastic spiral that you can wrap around the hose to protect it. It's heavy enough a pinhole leak isn't going to cut through it at any realistic operating pressures. You'd just see a dribble of oil coming out of it near the leak. Are you trying to actually spin the pump around or do you just want to let it rotate a few degrees to push on a strain gauge or some such? If it's spinning around, then yeah, that's dangerous and crazy and I'd stay away from it. But if only rotating a few degrees you can use stiff hoses without hurting your measurements. You could also just use a pressure gauge on the pump and correlate input torque to pump pressure. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail.net |
#27
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On Fri, 03 Sep 2004 18:14:07 -0700, Jon Anderson
vaguely proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email I must warn you that the making of explosi....oh..Sorry ************************************************** *** I know I am wrong about just about everything. So I am not going to listen when I am told I am wrong about the things I know I am right about. |
#28
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![]() "B.B." u wrote in message news ![]() In article 5lS_c.4605$vI2.1373@trnddc02, "Jerry Martes" wrote: [...] My problems are associated with a poor decission I made in the design of this little dyno. I wanted the drag on the load's rotation to be minimal. So, I made the lines into and out of the pump as flexible as possible. I thought the output hose could be "light weight" because it is such low pressiure. My brother-in-law spent his life designing hydraulics for Northrop. He told me storries about high pressure liquids punching small holes in outlet hoses due to some caracteristic of high pressure pumps. I thought -- Oh Sh*t. Since I have other things to occupy my time, I dropped that dyno for a while. Unless you wind it up really tight or kink it a hose rated for 6,000 PSI working pressure would have to be spiked up well over 6,000 PSI many times before developing a pinhole. Even then it's not very likely. Also, the pinhole leaks are easily contained with a plastic hose wrap. It's just a plastic spiral that you can wrap around the hose to protect it. It's heavy enough a pinhole leak isn't going to cut through it at any realistic operating pressures. You'd just see a dribble of oil coming out of it near the leak. Are you trying to actually spin the pump around or do you just want to let it rotate a few degrees to push on a strain gauge or some such? If it's spinning around, then yeah, that's dangerous and crazy and I'd stay away from it. But if only rotating a few degrees you can use stiff hoses without hurting your measurements. You could also just use a pressure gauge on the pump and correlate input torque to pump pressure. -- B.B. -- BB The motor is mounted firmly and the pump is mounted inside a big ball bearing from a VW Bug transaxel. So, the pump's shaft is connected to the motor's shaft and the pump body is free to rotate. The pump body is restricted from rotating by a ~ 1 foot long bar. I think you could have been a big help to me when I made this. My plan was to keep the 'resistance to pump rotation' at a minimum so the residual drag would be low and low HP could be recorded. So, I used some very low pressure hose on the outlet. I thought the spiking might be eliminated as a problem if the pump outlet had a metal U at its outlet. I put the U at the pump outlet and stopped working on the load since I got interested in the eddy current load at the same time I was finishing the hydraulic pump load. I'd bet that you could solve another problem I wonder about with this pump load. I bagan to worry about how to get the oil to swiril properly in the ~ 5 gallon oil reservoir. Note, all the dyno loads I've tried so far cant be used for more than a few minutes at 5 HP without coolant spray. So, the hydraulic load would be a good device for any "motor heat' testing. Thats why I havent disassembled it yet. Please let me know if you are available for information on how critical the reservoir size and shape will be. Thanks Jerry |
#29
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In article rJ0%c.3061$Va5.224@trnddc01,
"Jerry Martes" wrote: [...] BB The motor is mounted firmly and the pump is mounted inside a big ball bearing from a VW Bug transaxel. So, the pump's shaft is connected to the motor's shaft and the pump body is free to rotate. The pump body is restricted from rotating by a ~ 1 foot long bar. Neat setup. I think you could have been a big help to me when I made this. My plan was to keep the 'resistance to pump rotation' at a minimum so the residual drag would be low and low HP could be recorded. So, I used some very low pressure hose on the outlet. How low? The working pressure should be printed on the hose. If it's not, then yes, you should fear that hose. However, if it is rated then as long as you stay under the printed working pressure you'll be just fine even if it is a really flexible hose. Since your pump is rotating only very slightly you can use a fairly stiff hose without interfering with your measurements. I thought the spiking might be eliminated as a problem if the pump outlet had a metal U at its outlet. I put the U at the pump outlet and stopped working on the load since I got interested in the eddy current load at the same time I was finishing the hydraulic pump load. Hmm, I don't see how a U will eliminate spiking. Do you mean big pressure spikes or just pulsation? The pulsation might be a result of the pump you use--gear pumps pulse a lot. You can dampen that with an accumulator. Or just use a liquid dampened gauge if you want to check pressures as the gauge itself will more or less average the pulses together. But if you're using the foot-long arm and a strain gauge setup you won't really need to monitor pressure too closely. If the pulsing is bad enough to cause speed fluctuations in the motors you're testing you'll have to go to a smaller pump with higher pressures or a different style of pump for more money. Or you could stick a big flywheel somewhere to smooth things out. If you're getting actual spikes you're doing something weird as this setup should allow you to slowly build pressure. I'd bet that you could solve another problem I wonder about with this pump load. I bagan to worry about how to get the oil to swiril properly in the ~ 5 gallon oil reservoir. The suction line to the pump should connect near the bottom of the reservoir, and the return line should connect near the top. You don't need swirl, really, you just need the oil to spend a reasonable amount of time in there so it can cool. A simple single baffle within the tank between the inlet and outlet is plenty. But often you can get by without even that by placing the in & out connections far enough apart. Remember to include a filter somewhere. Note, all the dyno loads I've tried so far cant be used for more than a few minutes at 5 HP without coolant spray. So, the hydraulic load would be a good device for any "motor heat' testing. Thats why I havent disassembled it yet. Please let me know if you are available for information on how critical the reservoir size and shape will be. http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulic.htm I'm no engineer, I just know what I've seen. That page covers the basics. The only thing I'd add is to paint the outside of the tank black. -- B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail.net |
#31
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Rick wrote:
These guys have some neat little ones, too: http://www.land-and-sea.com/kart-dyn...rrent-dyno.htm I didn't rush to check this site out since kart engines are way beyond what we'll be trying to measure, but after finally taking a look, I'm impressed. Especially the tiny dyno stand with the model airplane engine. Have requested a catalog. Thanks for the link! Jon |
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