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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Cutting off thin flange under a stainless sink?
I bought a used stainless sink and the four flanges underneath (used
to bolt the sink to the countertop) are half-rusted and ugly. I'd like to remove the and use the flat under-surface of the sink with a wooden fram underneath and make a stand for it out of plain 2x4. The sink itself is good and clean but those flanges are too rotted to keep. I got one of the worst rusted flanges off by pulling/twisting with pliers and hitting it at the seam with a hammer and garden spade, using the spade like a chisel. This technique is not working as well with a less rusted flange. What would be a good approach? |
#2
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Gotta be a troll......
I would recommend using your teeth... just make sure your caps are in good shape "mbrooks" wrote in message om... I bought a used stainless sink and the four flanges underneath (used to bolt the sink to the countertop) are half-rusted and ugly. I'd like to remove the and use the flat under-surface of the sink with a wooden fram underneath and make a stand for it out of plain 2x4. The sink itself is good and clean but those flanges are too rotted to keep. I got one of the worst rusted flanges off by pulling/twisting with pliers and hitting it at the seam with a hammer and garden spade, using the spade like a chisel. This technique is not working as well with a less rusted flange. What would be a good approach? |
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I think those channels are spot welded onto the stainless. A cut off wheel
on a 4 1/2" grinder would probably make short work of those spot welds. -- Gary Brady Austin, TX www.powdercoatoven.4t.com "mbrooks" wrote in message om... I bought a used stainless sink and the four flanges underneath (used to bolt the sink to the countertop) are half-rusted and ugly. I'd like to remove the and use the flat under-surface of the sink with a wooden fram underneath and make a stand for it out of plain 2x4. The sink itself is good and clean but those flanges are too rotted to keep. I got one of the worst rusted flanges off by pulling/twisting with pliers and hitting it at the seam with a hammer and garden spade, using the spade like a chisel. This technique is not working as well with a less rusted flange. What would be a good approach? |
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Gunner wrote in message . ..
What would be a good approach? The trusty right angle grinder will remove them very quickly. Thanks, I appreciate the tip. I will get a grinder. The sink is too good to throw away. *** |
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On 30 Aug 2004 10:24:03 -0700, (mbrooks) wrote:
What is up with you people? A simple question was asked and several of you jumped all over it like teen girls ganging up on the new kid in school. Your failure of imagination is stunning. Do you treat all newcomers like this? Maybe you like paying full price for a workshop sink, I don't. I asked for help with a problem I haven't solved before. I don't see one good reason for this pile-on. Bad manners is not a rarity on this N.G. Neither is bad advice or misinformation. But inquiries usually do get at least a couple of responsive replies, as did you. An anglegrinder really is an inexpensive tool that can do your job quite well. Harbor Freight has one on sale for $9.99 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3150 I'll have to admit that I laughed out loud when I read about the hammer and shovel approach to metalworking! After you cut the tabs off your sink with your new anglegrinder, you can also use it to clean up the dings in your shovel! |
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Don Foreman wrote in message . ..
I'll have to admit that I laughed out loud when I read about the hammer and shovel approach to metalworking! After you cut the tabs off your sink with your new anglegrinder, you can also use it to clean up the dings in your shovel! Hey, okay, that really was funny, I'll cop to that. *** |
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