Cutting off thin flange under a stainless sink?
 

I bought a used stainless sink and the four flanges underneath (used
to bolt the sink to the countertop) are half-rusted and ugly. I'd like
to remove the and use the flat under-surface of the sink with a wooden
fram underneath and make a stand for it out of plain 2x4. The sink
itself is good and clean but those flanges are too rotted to keep.

I got one of the worst rusted flanges off by pulling/twisting with
pliers and hitting it at the seam with a hammer and garden spade,
using the spade like a chisel. This technique is not working as well
with a less rusted flange.

What would be a good approach?

Gotta be a troll......

I would recommend using your teeth... just make sure your caps are in good
shape



"mbrooks" wrote in message
om...
I bought a used stainless sink and the four flanges underneath (used
to bolt the sink to the countertop) are half-rusted and ugly. I'd like
to remove the and use the flat under-surface of the sink with a wooden
fram underneath and make a stand for it out of plain 2x4. The sink
itself is good and clean but those flanges are too rotted to keep.

I got one of the worst rusted flanges off by pulling/twisting with
pliers and hitting it at the seam with a hammer and garden spade,
using the spade like a chisel. This technique is not working as well
with a less rusted flange.

What would be a good approach?

On 28 Aug 2004 13:04:21 -0700, (mbrooks) wrote:

I bought a used stainless sink and the four flanges underneath (used
to bolt the sink to the countertop) are half-rusted and ugly. I'd like
to remove the and use the flat under-surface of the sink with a wooden
fram underneath and make a stand for it out of plain 2x4. The sink
itself is good and clean but those flanges are too rotted to keep.

I got one of the worst rusted flanges off by pulling/twisting with
pliers and hitting it at the seam with a hammer and garden spade,
using the spade like a chisel. This technique is not working as well
with a less rusted flange.

What would be a good approach?

The trusty right angle grinder will remove them very quickly.

Gunner

No 220-pound thug can threaten the well-being or dignity of a 110-pound
woman who has two pounds of iron to even things out. Is that evil?
Is that wrong? People who object to weapons aren't abolishing violence,
they're begging for the rule of brute force, when the biggest, strongest
animals among men were always automatically "right". Guns end that,
and social democracy is a hollow farce without an armed populace to make
it work.
- L. Neil Smith

I think those channels are spot welded onto the stainless. A cut off wheel
on a 4 1/2" grinder would probably make short work of those spot welds.

--
Gary Brady
Austin, TX
www.powdercoatoven.4t.com


"mbrooks" wrote in message
om...
I bought a used stainless sink and the four flanges underneath (used
to bolt the sink to the countertop) are half-rusted and ugly. I'd like
to remove the and use the flat under-surface of the sink with a wooden
fram underneath and make a stand for it out of plain 2x4. The sink
itself is good and clean but those flanges are too rotted to keep.

I got one of the worst rusted flanges off by pulling/twisting with
pliers and hitting it at the seam with a hammer and garden spade,
using the spade like a chisel. This technique is not working as well
with a less rusted flange.

What would be a good approach?

On 28 Aug 2004 13:04:21 -0700, (mbrooks) wrote:

I bought a used stainless sink and the four flanges underneath (used
to bolt the sink to the countertop) are half-rusted and ugly. I'd like
to remove the and use the flat under-surface of the sink with a wooden
fram underneath and make a stand for it out of plain 2x4. The sink
itself is good and clean but those flanges are too rotted to keep.

I got one of the worst rusted flanges off by pulling/twisting with
pliers and hitting it at the seam with a hammer and garden spade,
using the spade like a chisel. This technique is not working as well
with a less rusted flange.

What would be a good approach?

Your best bet is to use a plasma cutter. With a little
home-engineering you can power it from your home's Shipstone.

Google for details.

Mike Patterson
Please remove the spamtrap to email me.
"I always wanted to be somebody...I should have been more specific..." - Lily Tomlin

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 20:17:45 -0400, Mike Patterson
wrote:

On 28 Aug 2004 13:04:21 -0700, (mbrooks) wrote:

I bought a used stainless sink and the four flanges underneath (used
to bolt the sink to the countertop) are half-rusted and ugly. I'd like
to remove the and use the flat under-surface of the sink with a wooden
fram underneath and make a stand for it out of plain 2x4. The sink
itself is good and clean but those flanges are too rotted to keep.

I got one of the worst rusted flanges off by pulling/twisting with
pliers and hitting it at the seam with a hammer and garden spade,
using the spade like a chisel. This technique is not working as well
with a less rusted flange.

What would be a good approach?

Your best bet is to use a plasma cutter. With a little
home-engineering you can power it from your home's Shipstone.


Which reminds me, mine is being delivered next week. What is the
minimum height regulations for antigrav heavy lifters over a
residential area?

Gunner

No 220-pound thug can threaten the well-being or dignity of a 110-pound
woman who has two pounds of iron to even things out. Is that evil?
Is that wrong? People who object to weapons aren't abolishing violence,
they're begging for the rule of brute force, when the biggest, strongest
animals among men were always automatically "right". Guns end that,
and social democracy is a hollow farce without an armed populace to make
it work.
- L. Neil Smith

Gunner wrote in message . ..


What would be a good approach?

The trusty right angle grinder will remove them very quickly.

Thanks, I appreciate the tip. I will get a grinder. The sink is too
good to throw away.

***

On 30 Aug 2004 10:24:03 -0700, (mbrooks) wrote:

What is up with you people? A simple question was asked and several of
you jumped all over it like teen girls ganging up on the new kid in
school. Your failure of imagination is stunning. Do you treat all
newcomers like this? Maybe you like paying full price for a workshop
sink, I don't. I asked for help with a problem I haven't solved
before. I don't see one good reason for this pile-on.

Bad manners is not a rarity on this N.G. Neither is bad advice or
misinformation. But inquiries usually do get at least a couple of
responsive replies, as did you. An anglegrinder really is an
inexpensive tool that can do your job quite well. Harbor Freight has
one on sale for $9.99

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3150

I'll have to admit that I laughed out loud when I read about the
hammer and shovel approach to metalworking! After you cut the tabs
off your sink with your new anglegrinder, you can also use it to
clean up the dings in your shovel!

On 30 Aug 2004 10:28:27 -0700, (mbrooks) wrote:

Gunner wrote in message . ..


What would be a good approach?

The trusty right angle grinder will remove them very quickly.

Thanks, I appreciate the tip. I will get a grinder. The sink is too
good to throw away.

***
If you have a Harbor Freight store close by, they are currently on
sale. Look for the orange colored ones. While noisy and rattle a
lot..they seem to hold up very well.

Irrc..a $20 bill will get you the grinder (comes with a grinding disk)
and a nice wire cup brush(get a fine one) which is very handy for all
sorts of cleaning and deburring tasks.

Oh..safety glasses are mandatory.

Gunner

"She's (my daughter) already dating a sex offender.
Better that than a republican fundie neocon fascist."
FF, (alt.machines.cnc)

Don Foreman wrote in message . ..


I'll have to admit that I laughed out loud when I read about the
hammer and shovel approach to metalworking! After you cut the tabs
off your sink with your new anglegrinder, you can also use it to
clean up the dings in your shovel!

Hey, okay, that really was funny, I'll cop to that. :)

***