I am finally too embarrassed with the 2x6 wood pieces my Shizuoka B-3V bedmill
has been resting on since it was delivered...oh, only two years ago! :-o

I have 4 feet that came with the mill, each is a steel cup thing with a hard
rubbery insert. The steel cup is threaded for a 5/8" bolt. The mill has these
~1.25" threaded studs with a through hole for the 5/8" bolt. I am assuming you
turn the studs to level the machine and the 5/8" bolt is just to keep the mill
from slipping off the feet?

Ok, so uhm, how do I raise the 3.5 ton mill to get the feet on? I see a way to
do it by going back and forth with shims and the leveling studs, but uhg...

Also, once the feet are on, what procedure should I use to level the machine. I
read somewhere that you can tweak the feet on a mill to get that last little bit
of accuracy. Should I worry about that or just get the machine level with the
earth?


Thanks

Rick

Rick
Do the feet you have look like these;
http://www.mjvail.com/barrymount/barrypage3.htm
If so then you use the 1.25" threaded stud to set the height of the machine
and coarse level. The 5/8" bolt screws into the 'hat' on the mount and
expands the mount to do the final leveling. Take the 5/8" bolt and grind
the end of it till it is flat or slightly convex and grease it well before
installing it in the foot. If you don't grind and grease then the bolt may
gall to the mount, experience speaking here. Do not expand the foot more
that ~3/8" as it may separate. The 5/8" bolt must be tight to the bottom of
the mount or it is not correct and may move/settle a bit.
The mfg site is http://www.barrycontrols.com/ and your looking for leveling
mount information. I'm guessing that you have LM5 mounts or equivalent from
another mfg.

As far as raising the mill, use the 1.25" studs. Don't they screw in from
the top? Raise the mill on the front end by screwing the studs into the
base, grease 'um good, and onto the 2 by. When the front is off of the 2 by
then shim up under the base behind the studs, back off the studs to release
the 2 by and install the mounts on the front. Now raise the front pretty
high so that you can get a spacer/pivot under the base, near the back, lower
the front so that it rocks over to the front lifting the back and remove the
rear 2 by and install the rear mounts. Use all 4 feet to raise the machine
off the pivot. Set to height with the studs, and level with the mounts.
lg
no neat sig line

"Rick" wrote in message
...
I am finally too embarrassed with the 2x6 wood pieces my Shizuoka B-3V
bedmill
has been resting on since it was delivered...oh, only two years ago! :-o

I have 4 feet that came with the mill, each is a steel cup thing with a
hard
rubbery insert. The steel cup is threaded for a 5/8" bolt. The mill has
these
~1.25" threaded studs with a through hole for the 5/8" bolt. I am
assuming you
turn the studs to level the machine and the 5/8" bolt is just to keep the
mill
from slipping off the feet?

Ok, so uhm, how do I raise the 3.5 ton mill to get the feet on? I see a
way to
do it by going back and forth with shims and the leveling studs, but
uhg...

Also, once the feet are on, what procedure should I use to level the
machine. I
read somewhere that you can tweak the feet on a mill to get that last
little bit
of accuracy. Should I worry about that or just get the machine level with
the
earth?


Thanks

Rick

Rick wrote:
I am finally too embarrassed with the 2x6 wood pieces my Shizuoka B-3V bedmill
has been resting on since it was delivered...oh, only two years ago! :-o

I have 4 feet that came with the mill, each is a steel cup thing with a hard
rubbery insert. The steel cup is threaded for a 5/8" bolt. The mill has these
~1.25" threaded studs with a through hole for the 5/8" bolt. I am assuming you
turn the studs to level the machine and the 5/8" bolt is just to keep the mill
from slipping off the feet?

Ok, so uhm, how do I raise the 3.5 ton mill to get the feet on? I see a way to
do it by going back and forth with shims and the leveling studs, but uhg...

Also, once the feet are on, what procedure should I use to level the machine. I
read somewhere that you can tweak the feet on a mill to get that last little bit
of accuracy. Should I worry about that or just get the machine level with the
earth?


Thanks

Rick


See if the local rental yard has a "Hydraulic Maintenance & Repair Kit" - e.g. a Hydraulic
Jaw of life or spreader beak - that can get under the foot area and push up (You do have wood there)
(you could cut a notch out for a point to lift on.
It typically has spreader bars that can be against the floor and a lifting point inches above also.

look at http://www.mscdirect.com/mscProductS...ss?RestartFlow.......... super long string
http://www.mscdirect.com then top search for EU09050881 with MSC part number just below selected.
Gives you a picture of what I'm thinking of and what to show or just to buy.

e.g. one pumps it up - blocks under something to hold if the pump fails - then add footings on that side.

If you have a square object - not a long or wide base - then you have to lift by overhead hoist.

You might go this way with the hand pump - jack up all corners - around and around - blocking and leveling
as you get higher and higher. Once up - then put on the feet and jack it up - take out shim and
round and round you go down the stair steps of shims that makes the taller stack... until you are out and
on the feet.

Not an easy job - hoist or the like is faster and easier. Still block before you work under the
floating mill.

Martin [ concept extracted from the brain - not from the shop. ]
--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

"larry g" wrote in message
...
Rick
Do the feet you have look like these;
http://www.mjvail.com/barrymount/barrypage3.htm
If so then you use the 1.25" threaded stud to set the height of the machine
and coarse level. The 5/8" bolt screws into the 'hat' on the mount and
expands the mount to do the final leveling. Take the 5/8" bolt and grind
the end of it till it is flat or slightly convex and grease it well before
installing it in the foot. If you don't grind and grease then the bolt may
gall to the mount, experience speaking here. Do not expand the foot more
that ~3/8" as it may separate. The 5/8" bolt must be tight to the bottom of
the mount or it is not correct and may move/settle a bit.
The mfg site is http://www.barrycontrols.com/ and your looking for leveling
mount information. I'm guessing that you have LM5 mounts or equivalent from
another mfg.

As far as raising the mill, use the 1.25" studs. Don't they screw in from
the top? Raise the mill on the front end by screwing the studs into the
base, grease 'um good, and onto the 2 by. When the front is off of the 2 by
then shim up under the base behind the studs, back off the studs to release
the 2 by and install the mounts on the front. Now raise the front pretty
high so that you can get a spacer/pivot under the base, near the back, lower
the front so that it rocks over to the front lifting the back and remove the
rear 2 by and install the rear mounts. Use all 4 feet to raise the machine
off the pivot. Set to height with the studs, and level with the mounts.
lg
no neat sig line

Thanks Larry,

I uploaded some pics of the feet to the metalworking.com dropbox.

Here is a closeup of the 1.25" stud (I really haven't measured it, just
eyeballing):
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/shizfoot1.JPG

Here is a closeup of a foot pad and a footpad taken appart, and also the 1.25"
stud:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/shizfoot2.JPG

The 5/8" bolt in that pic was from my junkbox...I don't know where the original
bolts are. It does seem as if the 5/8" bolt presses down on the metal plate on
top of the rubber pad...perhaps expanding it like you said???

Here is a shot of one side of the mill, showing it unhappy resting on wood:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/shizside.JPG

Poor mill...it really wants some shoes.

I am going to try your grease and go idea tommorow, along with a large stack of
shims....should take me oh, say 4 hours of turning (not much travel on those
1.25" studs. I tried a test lift of the mill with a solid steel 8 foot
prybar...Mill 1, prybar 0. Damn big mill....sigh.

Rick

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 05:39:19 GMT, "Rick" wrote:

I am going to try your grease and go idea tommorow, along with a large stack of
shims....should take me oh, say 4 hours of turning (not much travel on those
1.25" studs. I tried a test lift of the mill with a solid steel 8 foot
prybar...Mill 1, prybar 0. Damn big mill....sigh.

Rick

No railroad jack in the area? I love mine for just this sort of thing.
Jack up the front until its high enough for the feet, install, lower
and repeat on the rear.

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by
the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked
out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman
Liebmann

Rick
After looking at the pictures it looks like you have one mount on already.
Your mounts look to be functionally the same as the barrymount feet. When I
originally wrote I pictured in my mind the 2 by's being under the mount
holes. Do you have enough room to get the mounts under the mill and the
bolts started? If so then you should be mostly home. If necessary can you
bang the 2 by's to get clearance to start the mount bolts into the mount?
lg
no neat sig line
"Rick" wrote in message
...

"larry g" wrote in message
...
Rick
Do the feet you have look like these;
http://www.mjvail.com/barrymount/barrypage3.htm
If so then you use the 1.25" threaded stud to set the height of the
machine
and coarse level. The 5/8" bolt screws into the 'hat' on the mount and
expands the mount to do the final leveling. Take the 5/8" bolt and
grind
the end of it till it is flat or slightly convex and grease it well
before
installing it in the foot. If you don't grind and grease then the bolt
may
gall to the mount, experience speaking here. Do not expand the foot
more
that ~3/8" as it may separate. The 5/8" bolt must be tight to the
bottom of
the mount or it is not correct and may move/settle a bit.
The mfg site is http://www.barrycontrols.com/ and your looking for
leveling
mount information. I'm guessing that you have LM5 mounts or equivalent
from
another mfg.

As far as raising the mill, use the 1.25" studs. Don't they screw in
from
the top? Raise the mill on the front end by screwing the studs into the
base, grease 'um good, and onto the 2 by. When the front is off of the
2 by
then shim up under the base behind the studs, back off the studs to
release
the 2 by and install the mounts on the front. Now raise the front
pretty
high so that you can get a spacer/pivot under the base, near the back,
lower
the front so that it rocks over to the front lifting the back and remove
the
rear 2 by and install the rear mounts. Use all 4 feet to raise the
machine
off the pivot. Set to height with the studs, and level with the mounts.
lg
no neat sig line

Thanks Larry,

I uploaded some pics of the feet to the metalworking.com dropbox.

Here is a closeup of the 1.25" stud (I really haven't measured it, just
eyeballing):
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/shizfoot1.JPG

Here is a closeup of a foot pad and a footpad taken appart, and also the
1.25"
stud:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/shizfoot2.JPG

The 5/8" bolt in that pic was from my junkbox...I don't know where the
original
bolts are. It does seem as if the 5/8" bolt presses down on the metal
plate on
top of the rubber pad...perhaps expanding it like you said???

Here is a shot of one side of the mill, showing it unhappy resting on
wood:
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/shizside.JPG

Poor mill...it really wants some shoes.

I am going to try your grease and go idea tommorow, along with a large
stack of
shims....should take me oh, say 4 hours of turning (not much travel on
those
1.25" studs. I tried a test lift of the mill with a solid steel 8 foot
prybar...Mill 1, prybar 0. Damn big mill....sigh.

Rick

Gunner wrote:

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 05:39:19 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


I am going to try your grease and go idea tommorow, along with a large stack of
shims....should take me oh, say 4 hours of turning (not much travel on those
1.25" studs. I tried a test lift of the mill with a solid steel 8 foot
prybar...Mill 1, prybar 0. Damn big mill....sigh.

Rick


No railroad jack in the area? I love mine for just this sort of thing.
Jack up the front until its high enough for the feet, install, lower
and repeat on the rear.

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by
the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked
out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman
Liebmann
http://www.hyjacks.com/mj112.htm
I suspect Gunner has one of these beautiful tools.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 03:49:11 GMT, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:

Gunner wrote:

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 05:39:19 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


I am going to try your grease and go idea tommorow, along with a large stack of
shims....should take me oh, say 4 hours of turning (not much travel on those
1.25" studs. I tried a test lift of the mill with a solid steel 8 foot
prybar...Mill 1, prybar 0. Damn big mill....sigh.

Rick


No railroad jack in the area? I love mine for just this sort of thing.
Jack up the front until its high enough for the feet, install, lower
and repeat on the rear.

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by
the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked
out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman
Liebmann
http://www.hyjacks.com/mj112.htm
I suspect Gunner has one of these beautiful tools.

Martin

The 86A to be exact. Not bad for a $5 yard sale find, no?
Its one of my most cherished possessions.

Gunner
"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by
the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked
out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman
Liebmann

"larry g" wrote in message
...
Rick
After looking at the pictures it looks like you have one mount on already.
Your mounts look to be functionally the same as the barrymount feet. When I
originally wrote I pictured in my mind the 2 by's being under the mount
holes. Do you have enough room to get the mounts under the mill and the
bolts started? If so then you should be mostly home. If necessary can you
bang the 2 by's to get clearance to start the mount bolts into the mount?
lg

Little late now, but that pic was of a mount without the rubber insert. Adding
the rubber insert makes it about an inch or inch and a half taller. Anyway, all
mounted and done now!

Rick