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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
What if any differences might I notice when making and more importantly
using a 1/4" punch made of C360 brass vs C932 bearing bronze? The brass will work harden, but I can only guess bearing material is not supposed to harden up under use. The punch would be just that- 1/4" x 4", tapered and knurled and used for driving out stuck pins. I figure it's easy enough to make and will be useful. |
#2
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 16:27:51 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: What if any differences might I notice when making and more importantly using a 1/4" punch made of C360 brass vs C932 bearing bronze? The brass will work harden, but I can only guess bearing material is not supposed to harden up under use. The punch would be just that- 1/4" x 4", tapered and knurled and used for driving out stuck pins. I figure it's easy enough to make and will be useful Since you haven't yet gotten a specific answer, I'll just point out that C360 is a great deal harder and stronger than C932. The bearing bronzes are pretty soft and, in the case of C932, kind of "mushy." I don't know its work-hardening properties. My guess is that C360 is a better material for your application. Some bearing bronzes would be similar to ordinary brass, but C932 is pretty soft. -- Ed Huntress |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 16:27:51 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: What if any differences might I notice when making and more importantly using a 1/4" punch made of C360 brass vs C932 bearing bronze? The brass will work harden, but I can only guess bearing material is not supposed to harden up under use. The punch would be just that- 1/4" x 4", tapered and knurled and used for driving out stuck pins. I figure it's easy enough to make and will be useful Since you haven't yet gotten a specific answer, I'll just point out that C360 is a great deal harder and stronger than C932. The bearing bronzes are pretty soft and, in the case of C932, kind of "mushy." I don't know its work-hardening properties. My guess is that C360 is a better material for your application. Some bearing bronzes would be similar to ordinary brass, but C932 is pretty soft. Thanks for the answer. This is the info I as looking for. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
Ed Huntress wrote:
On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 16:27:51 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: What if any differences might I notice when making and more importantly using a 1/4" punch made of C360 brass vs C932 bearing bronze? The brass will work harden, but I can only guess bearing material is not supposed to harden up under use. The punch would be just that- 1/4" x 4", tapered and knurled and used for driving out stuck pins. I figure it's easy enough to make and will be useful Since you haven't yet gotten a specific answer, I'll just point out that C360 is a great deal harder and stronger than C932. The bearing bronzes are pretty soft and, in the case of C932, kind of "mushy." I don't know its work-hardening properties. My guess is that C360 is a better material for your application. Some bearing bronzes would be similar to ordinary brass, but C932 is pretty soft. Went ahead and made it in brass, on a Sherline lathe. The taper was guestimated with a compound attachment and blended with a file. http://www.panix.com/~presence/brass-punch.jpg Knurling got messed up on the left side, but only with one cutting wheel, it may have clogged up. It has this odd pattern, but whatever, it's a punch. Used it yesteday to knock pins out of a casting. |
#5
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 16:56:03 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: Ed Huntress wrote: On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 16:27:51 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: What if any differences might I notice when making and more importantly using a 1/4" punch made of C360 brass vs C932 bearing bronze? The brass will work harden, but I can only guess bearing material is not supposed to harden up under use. The punch would be just that- 1/4" x 4", tapered and knurled and used for driving out stuck pins. I figure it's easy enough to make and will be useful Since you haven't yet gotten a specific answer, I'll just point out that C360 is a great deal harder and stronger than C932. The bearing bronzes are pretty soft and, in the case of C932, kind of "mushy." I don't know its work-hardening properties. My guess is that C360 is a better material for your application. Some bearing bronzes would be similar to ordinary brass, but C932 is pretty soft. Went ahead and made it in brass, on a Sherline lathe. The taper was guestimated with a compound attachment and blended with a file. http://www.panix.com/~presence/brass-punch.jpg Knurling got messed up on the left side, but only with one cutting wheel, it may have clogged up. It has this odd pattern, but whatever, it's a punch. Used it yesteday to knock pins out of a casting. That's a beauty. If you don't bash it up too much, you could make a pendant out of it. g Doncha love the way brass takes to knurling? It's beautiful. -- Ed Huntress |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 16:56:03 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Ed Huntress wrote: On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 16:27:51 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: What if any differences might I notice when making and more importantly using a 1/4" punch made of C360 brass vs C932 bearing bronze? The brass will work harden, but I can only guess bearing material is not supposed to harden up under use. The punch would be just that- 1/4" x 4", tapered and knurled and used for driving out stuck pins. I figure it's easy enough to make and will be useful Since you haven't yet gotten a specific answer, I'll just point out that C360 is a great deal harder and stronger than C932. The bearing bronzes are pretty soft and, in the case of C932, kind of "mushy." I don't know its work-hardening properties. My guess is that C360 is a better material for your application. Some bearing bronzes would be similar to ordinary brass, but C932 is pretty soft. Went ahead and made it in brass, on a Sherline lathe. The taper was guestimated with a compound attachment and blended with a file. http://www.panix.com/~presence/brass-punch.jpg Knurling got messed up on the left side, but only with one cutting wheel, it may have clogged up. It has this odd pattern, but whatever, it's a punch. Used it yesteday to knock pins out of a casting. That's a beauty. If you don't bash it up too much, you could make a pendant out of it. g May try to make another one in a different size to get it right. Doncha love the way brass takes to knurling? It's beautiful. The only problem is how much it flakes and clogs up the knurling wheels. Cutting fluid like Relion seems to make cutting easier, but makes also binds the flakes into the teeth. May need to setup some tubes, old toothbrush heads and the shopvac to suck all the flakes out of the wheels as they rotate. The wheels I have are 25TPI and 1/2" dia so it doesn't take much material to fill them up. |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 18:32:07 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: Ed Huntress wrote: On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 16:56:03 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Ed Huntress wrote: On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 16:27:51 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: What if any differences might I notice when making and more importantly using a 1/4" punch made of C360 brass vs C932 bearing bronze? The brass will work harden, but I can only guess bearing material is not supposed to harden up under use. The punch would be just that- 1/4" x 4", tapered and knurled and used for driving out stuck pins. I figure it's easy enough to make and will be useful Since you haven't yet gotten a specific answer, I'll just point out that C360 is a great deal harder and stronger than C932. The bearing bronzes are pretty soft and, in the case of C932, kind of "mushy." I don't know its work-hardening properties. My guess is that C360 is a better material for your application. Some bearing bronzes would be similar to ordinary brass, but C932 is pretty soft. Went ahead and made it in brass, on a Sherline lathe. The taper was guestimated with a compound attachment and blended with a file. http://www.panix.com/~presence/brass-punch.jpg Knurling got messed up on the left side, but only with one cutting wheel, it may have clogged up. It has this odd pattern, but whatever, it's a punch. Used it yesteday to knock pins out of a casting. That's a beauty. If you don't bash it up too much, you could make a pendant out of it. g May try to make another one in a different size to get it right. Doncha love the way brass takes to knurling? It's beautiful. The only problem is how much it flakes and clogs up the knurling wheels. Cutting fluid like Relion seems to make cutting easier, but makes also binds the flakes into the teeth. May need to setup some tubes, old toothbrush heads and the shopvac to suck all the flakes out of the wheels as they rotate. The wheels I have are 25TPI and 1/2" dia so it doesn't take much material to fill them up. I haven't done it for a long time, but when my uncle was teaching me how to run his (now my) lathe, he told me to use heavy machine oil, or even motor oil, on knurling tools. I always have, and I don't remember any clogging problems with brass. But that was decades ago. I don't think I've knurled brass for 25 years. Maybe I just forgot about it. -- Ed Huntress |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 18:32:07 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: Ed Huntress wrote: On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 16:56:03 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Ed Huntress wrote: On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 16:27:51 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: What if any differences might I notice when making and more importantly using a 1/4" punch made of C360 brass vs C932 bearing bronze? The brass will work harden, but I can only guess bearing material is not supposed to harden up under use. The punch would be just that- 1/4" x 4", tapered and knurled and used for driving out stuck pins. I figure it's easy enough to make and will be useful Since you haven't yet gotten a specific answer, I'll just point out that C360 is a great deal harder and stronger than C932. The bearing bronzes are pretty soft and, in the case of C932, kind of "mushy." I don't know its work-hardening properties. My guess is that C360 is a better material for your application. Some bearing bronzes would be similar to ordinary brass, but C932 is pretty soft. Went ahead and made it in brass, on a Sherline lathe. The taper was guestimated with a compound attachment and blended with a file. http://www.panix.com/~presence/brass-punch.jpg Knurling got messed up on the left side, but only with one cutting wheel, it may have clogged up. It has this odd pattern, but whatever, it's a punch. Used it yesteday to knock pins out of a casting. That's a beauty. If you don't bash it up too much, you could make a pendant out of it. g May try to make another one in a different size to get it right. Doncha love the way brass takes to knurling? It's beautiful. The only problem is how much it flakes and clogs up the knurling wheels. Cutting fluid like Relion seems to make cutting easier, but makes also binds the flakes into the teeth. May need to setup some tubes, old toothbrush heads and the shopvac to suck all the flakes out of the wheels as they rotate. The wheels I have are 25TPI and 1/2" dia so it doesn't take much material to fill them up. Brass work hardens quickly and then starts to flake, as you have noticed. So spend as little time as possible knurling. This means plunging the knurling wheel into the work quickly and then traversing as fast as possible. Try not to run the knurl back and forth. Of course with a small lathe this might be tough. Flood with oil to wash any chips out. From your photo it is obvious that the knurl is double tracking. So there are actually two knurled patterns, one not as deep as the other. Try reducing the diameter to be knurled a little on the next part, that may help. And once agian, plunge the knurl wheel as fast as possible into the work. Eric |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On 2016-04-21, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 18:32:07 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Ed Huntress wrote: On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 16:56:03 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Ed Huntress wrote: On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 16:27:51 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: What if any differences might I notice when making and more importantly using a 1/4" punch made of C360 brass vs C932 bearing bronze? The brass will work harden, but I can only guess bearing material is not supposed to harden up under use. [ ... ] Went ahead and made it in brass, on a Sherline lathe. The taper was guestimated with a compound attachment and blended with a file. http://www.panix.com/~presence/brass-punch.jpg Looks pretty nice -- at least from this side. Knurling got messed up on the left side, but only with one cutting wheel, it may have clogged up. It has this odd pattern, but whatever, it's a punch. Used it yesteday to knock pins out of a casting. How were you holding it? A 4-jaw chuck by any chance? Slightly off center? With a push type knurler, that could result in one side being light or unknurled. A scissors style would tend to follow the workpiece, even if slightly off-center, since the force comes from a knurl above and one below the workpiece. Otherwise, knurling between centers makes sense -- and then turn the needed features (striking end and punch end) after the knurl is done nicely. And a Sherline seems rather lightweight for a push knurl. A scissors knurl would make the job easier on the machine. [ ... ] Doncha love the way brass takes to knurling? It's beautiful. The only problem is how much it flakes and clogs up the knurling wheels. Cutting fluid like Relion seems to make cutting easier, but makes also binds the flakes into the teeth. May need to setup some tubes, old toothbrush heads and the shopvac to suck all the flakes out of the wheels as they rotate. The wheels I have are 25TPI and 1/2" dia so it doesn't take much material to fill them up. I haven't done it for a long time, but when my uncle was teaching me how to run his (now my) lathe, he told me to use heavy machine oil, or even motor oil, on knurling tools. I always have, and I don't remember any clogging problems with brass. But that was decades ago. I don't think I've knurled brass for 25 years. Maybe I just forgot about it. I knurl brass moderately often. I use Vactra No.2 Waylube during the knurling, and then spritz it with WD-40 to clean the lube and the flakes off. But I usually do it on a 12x24" Clausing with a BXA series knurler which has a pair of arms off a dovetail on the tool holder, and a knob which moves one arm up as the other goes down. Set it once lightly clamped on the top and bottom of the workpiece, and set the height nut on the tool holder block and then it is just a matter of adjusting for the diameter. Move it into place for the start of the knurl, crank down the knob which brings them together until you get a good bite, start the lathe spindle, and keep squirting Vactra No.2 onto the knurls. Beware of trying to lube with an acid brush, It will grab the bristles and pull them in. Makes a mess. :-) Good Luck, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2016-04-21, Ed Huntress wrote: On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 18:32:07 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Ed Huntress wrote: On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 16:56:03 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Ed Huntress wrote: On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 16:27:51 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: What if any differences might I notice when making and more importantly using a 1/4" punch made of C360 brass vs C932 bearing bronze? The brass will work harden, but I can only guess bearing material is not supposed to harden up under use. [ ... ] Went ahead and made it in brass, on a Sherline lathe. The taper was guestimated with a compound attachment and blended with a file. http://www.panix.com/~presence/brass-punch.jpg Looks pretty nice -- at least from this side. It's symmetrical from all sides, just had the double tracking on the left side from one knurl. Knurling got messed up on the left side, but only with one cutting wheel, it may have clogged up. It has this odd pattern, but whatever, it's a punch. Used it yesteday to knock pins out of a casting. How were you holding it? A 4-jaw chuck by any chance? Slightly off center? With a push type knurler, that could result in one side being light or unknurled. A scissors style would tend to follow the workpiece, even if slightly off-center, since the force comes from a knurl above and one below the workpiece. Otherwise, knurling between centers makes sense -- and then turn the needed features (striking end and punch end) after the knurl is done nicely. I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. The OD was turned down to 0.369" (to give 29 multiples of 0.04" from the 25 TPI wheel). I did some test knurls on the punch side which was facing the livecenter. Seemed OK. I turned that to 1/4, added the taper and then cut the groove by the striking side. It seems easier to cut knurls from a taper than just cranking down on the holder for the wheels and then trying to start the lathe. The sherline knurling attachment is just two blocks with pins for the wheels that are clamped towards each other with two screws. Their bases are held into the crosslide T-slots but must be left loose so both sides can slide around and cut evenly. And a Sherline seems rather lightweight for a push knurl. A scissors knurl would make the job easier on the machine. Their attachment is more similar to the scissor type ones in that the cutting forces other than required torque are not put on the lathe itself. The torque requirements seem to push the limits though. [ ... ] Doncha love the way brass takes to knurling? It's beautiful. The only problem is how much it flakes and clogs up the knurling wheels. Cutting fluid like Relion seems to make cutting easier, but makes also binds the flakes into the teeth. May need to setup some tubes, old toothbrush heads and the shopvac to suck all the flakes out of the wheels as they rotate. The wheels I have are 25TPI and 1/2" dia so it doesn't take much material to fill them up. I haven't done it for a long time, but when my uncle was teaching me how to run his (now my) lathe, he told me to use heavy machine oil, or even motor oil, on knurling tools. I always have, and I don't remember any clogging problems with brass. But that was decades ago. I don't think I've knurled brass for 25 years. Maybe I just forgot about it. I knurl brass moderately often. I use Vactra No.2 Waylube during the knurling, and then spritz it with WD-40 to clean the lube and the flakes off. But I usually do it on a 12x24" Clausing with a BXA series knurler which has a pair of arms off a dovetail on the tool holder, and a knob which moves one arm up as the other goes down. Set it once lightly clamped on the top and bottom of the workpiece, and set the height nut on the tool holder block and then it is just a matter of adjusting for the diameter. Move it into place for the start of the knurl, crank down the knob which brings them together until you get a good bite, start the lathe spindle, and keep squirting Vactra No.2 onto the knurls. Beware of trying to lube with an acid brush, It will grab the bristles and pull them in. Makes a mess. :-) I learned about the brush the hard way. Just had fun with a paper towel getting pulled onto a chain drive this week too. Will try the vactra 2, have a gallon of it anyways. |
#11
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? Gunner |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On 2016-04-23, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? Common phrase in dimensioning electronics layouts and some other fields. one "mil" is 0.001". (We are more likely to call it a "thou". :-) Just depends on in which field you have worked in the past. Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#14
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On 23 Apr 2016 23:40:48 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: On 2016-04-23, Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? Common phrase in dimensioning electronics layouts and some other fields. one "mil" is 0.001". (We are more likely to call it a "thou". :-) Just depends on in which field you have worked in the past. Enjoy, DoN. Common, also, in working with thin sheet materials -- especially plastics. -- Ed Huntress |
#15
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On 23 Apr 2016 23:40:48 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: On 2016-04-23, Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? Common phrase in dimensioning electronics layouts and some other fields. one "mil" is 0.001". (We are more likely to call it a "thou". :-) Just depends on in which field you have worked in the past. Enjoy, DoN. Ah! Never done electronic layouts. Thanks! Gunner |
#17
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:00:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc I hate to agree with you but I never heard the term "mil" until very recently and I worked in and around the business since I was in High School. It was always 3 thousandths (.003) or 3 tenths (.0003) for smaller dimensions. -- Cheers, Schweik |
#18
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:21:47 +0700, Good Soldier Schweik
wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:00:29 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc I hate to agree with you but I never heard the term "mil" until very recently and I worked in and around the business since I was in High School. It was always 3 thousandths (.003) or 3 tenths (.0003) for smaller dimensions. Before the late 1930s, "mil" was used commonly in machining, too. Here's a little history of how we express "thousandth of an inch": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thousandth_of_an_inch -- Ed Huntress |
#19
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 06:43:15 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:21:47 +0700, Good Soldier Schweik wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:00:29 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc I hate to agree with you but I never heard the term "mil" until very recently and I worked in and around the business since I was in High School. It was always 3 thousandths (.003) or 3 tenths (.0003) for smaller dimensions. Before the late 1930s, "mil" was used commonly in machining, too. Well, I wasn't around the shops in the "late 1930's" :-) But I did for a couple of weeks run a lathe that the cross slide was calibrated in 1/128th of an inch. The owner of the shop reckoned it dated from "Civil War Days". Here's a little history of how we express "thousandth of an inch": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thousandth_of_an_inch -- Cheers, John B. |
#20
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 18:21:21 +0700, John B.
wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 06:43:15 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:21:47 +0700, Good Soldier Schweik wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:00:29 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc I hate to agree with you but I never heard the term "mil" until very recently and I worked in and around the business since I was in High School. It was always 3 thousandths (.003) or 3 tenths (.0003) for smaller dimensions. Before the late 1930s, "mil" was used commonly in machining, too. Well, I wasn't around the shops in the "late 1930's" :-) But I did for a couple of weeks run a lathe that the cross slide was calibrated in 1/128th of an inch. The owner of the shop reckoned it dated from "Civil War Days". When they're that old, you should sell them to interior decorators for use as foliage planters. They look nice with a Wandering Jew twined around the bedways, standing between a miniature palm and a ficus tree. d8-) In 1977, I was one of the writers for American Machinist's 100th Anniversary issue. For a year, we all poured through the old AM archives, going back 100 years. The term "mil," for thousandth, appeared all of the time in the old volumes, as a slangy shorthand, like the way we use the term "tenths" today. Then, I'd say roughly in the late '30s, the term "mil" all but disappeared. Universal use of gage blocks, sub-thousandths accuracy, aircraft and military specs combined to add another decimal point to required accuracies. American Machinist adopted a style point of using numerical values to express accuracy, with a zero before the decimal point for metrics, and with no leading zero for inch-based dimensions. Written out in English, we used "thousandths," "ten-thousandths," and "microinches." Metrics were a problem child, as we first used "micron," and then, when SI came in vogue, "micro-meter." Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. BTW, don't get me started on "gage" versus "gauge." That one has a history, too. There used to be an important distinction, but that distinction has been lost in time. -- Ed Huntress Here's a little history of how we express "thousandth of an inch": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thousandth_of_an_inch |
#21
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 08:48:57 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 18:21:21 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 06:43:15 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:21:47 +0700, Good Soldier Schweik wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:00:29 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc I hate to agree with you but I never heard the term "mil" until very recently and I worked in and around the business since I was in High School. It was always 3 thousandths (.003) or 3 tenths (.0003) for smaller dimensions. Before the late 1930s, "mil" was used commonly in machining, too. Well, I wasn't around the shops in the "late 1930's" :-) But I did for a couple of weeks run a lathe that the cross slide was calibrated in 1/128th of an inch. The owner of the shop reckoned it dated from "Civil War Days". When they're that old, you should sell them to interior decorators for use as foliage planters. They look nice with a Wandering Jew twined around the bedways, standing between a miniature palm and a ficus tree. d8-) Well, this was when I was in High School and the shop was at least 2nd generation in the same building. It was owned and operated by two bachelor brothers who didn't talk to each other. The entire shop except for some bench grinders operated from a single electric motor "out back" driving an overhead shaft system. Strangely I don't remember thinking it was an odd place to work :-) One of the brothers had an absolutely like new Henderson 4 cylinder motorcycle that he used to ride to work occasionally which certainly was interesting. As a summer hire apprentice I wasn't doing any high tech stuff, they had me making nuts on the old lathe. Even then, making 50 cents an hour, I can't see how the finances worked. 12 ft of hex stock in an antique lathe, Drill, tap, part off, advance the stock a bit and do it again. Sort of a human screw machine :-) But they paid every Friday afternoon at quitting time. Cash in the hand. In 1977, I was one of the writers for American Machinist's 100th Anniversary issue. For a year, we all poured through the old AM archives, going back 100 years. The term "mil," for thousandth, appeared all of the time in the old volumes, as a slangy shorthand, like the way we use the term "tenths" today. Then, I'd say roughly in the late '30s, the term "mil" all but disappeared. Universal use of gage blocks, sub-thousandths accuracy, aircraft and military specs combined to add another decimal point to required accuracies. American Machinist adopted a style point of using numerical values to express accuracy, with a zero before the decimal point for metrics, and with no leading zero for inch-based dimensions. Written out in English, we used "thousandths," "ten-thousandths," and "microinches." Metrics were a problem child, as we first used "micron," and then, when SI came in vogue, "micro-meter." Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. BTW, don't get me started on "gage" versus "gauge." That one has a history, too. There used to be an important distinction, but that distinction has been lost in time. -- Cheers, John B. |
#22
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 20:12:37 +0700, John B.
wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 08:48:57 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 18:21:21 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 06:43:15 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:21:47 +0700, Good Soldier Schweik wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:00:29 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc I hate to agree with you but I never heard the term "mil" until very recently and I worked in and around the business since I was in High School. It was always 3 thousandths (.003) or 3 tenths (.0003) for smaller dimensions. Before the late 1930s, "mil" was used commonly in machining, too. Well, I wasn't around the shops in the "late 1930's" :-) But I did for a couple of weeks run a lathe that the cross slide was calibrated in 1/128th of an inch. The owner of the shop reckoned it dated from "Civil War Days". When they're that old, you should sell them to interior decorators for use as foliage planters. They look nice with a Wandering Jew twined around the bedways, standing between a miniature palm and a ficus tree. d8-) Well, this was when I was in High School and the shop was at least 2nd generation in the same building. It was owned and operated by two bachelor brothers who didn't talk to each other. The entire shop except for some bench grinders operated from a single electric motor "out back" driving an overhead shaft system. Strangely I don't remember thinking it was an odd place to work :-) One of the brothers had an absolutely like new Henderson 4 cylinder motorcycle that he used to ride to work occasionally which certainly was interesting. As a summer hire apprentice I wasn't doing any high tech stuff, they had me making nuts on the old lathe. Even then, making 50 cents an hour, I can't see how the finances worked. 12 ft of hex stock in an antique lathe, Drill, tap, part off, advance the stock a bit and do it again. Sort of a human screw machine :-) At least he didn't have you start with round bar stock... But they paid every Friday afternoon at quitting time. Cash in the hand. When I hear stories like that, I wonder how the United States, and the West in general, ever managed to produce anything that anyone could afford. Just before wire EDM came into use, I started covering tool and diemaking, and visited a lot of t&d shops. I watched diemakers rough out blanking dies with a bandsaw, breaking the blade, threading it through the work (they milled out a really rough hole first, but it usually was nowhere near the final size), and then re-welding the blade back together. Then they'd break the blade to remove the die from the saw, and they'd go to work with diemaker's chisels, cutting close to the line and chiseling in some die relief. Then, possibly, on to the die-filer. Next, hand-filing with files down to jeweler-file size. After that, the die would go out for heat-treating. When it came back, out came the slips and stones, trial-mating the die with a punch, re-stoning to fit, over and over. That was for simple diesets. Anything complicated was likely to require a multi-part die, which had to be fitted together in pieces that were dowelled to the die base. My God... In 1977, I was one of the writers for American Machinist's 100th Anniversary issue. For a year, we all poured through the old AM archives, going back 100 years. The term "mil," for thousandth, appeared all of the time in the old volumes, as a slangy shorthand, like the way we use the term "tenths" today. Then, I'd say roughly in the late '30s, the term "mil" all but disappeared. Universal use of gage blocks, sub-thousandths accuracy, aircraft and military specs combined to add another decimal point to required accuracies. American Machinist adopted a style point of using numerical values to express accuracy, with a zero before the decimal point for metrics, and with no leading zero for inch-based dimensions. Written out in English, we used "thousandths," "ten-thousandths," and "microinches." Metrics were a problem child, as we first used "micron," and then, when SI came in vogue, "micro-meter." Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. BTW, don't get me started on "gage" versus "gauge." That one has a history, too. There used to be an important distinction, but that distinction has been lost in time. |
#23
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On 04/24/2016 8:12 AM, John B. wrote:
.... As a summer hire apprentice I wasn't doing any high tech stuff, they had me making nuts on the old lathe. Even then, making 50 cents an hour, I can't see how the finances worked. 12 ft of hex stock in an antique lathe, Drill, tap, part off, advance the stock a bit and do it again. Sort of a human screw machine :-) Can't help but wonder what size these would've been and who was the customer? All except the most unusual would seem to have been bulk items long before then... But they paid every Friday afternoon at quitting time. Cash in the hand. .... JC Penney paid my (then future) wife in cash in $2 bills and change every week in those days, too, when J. C. himself was still around. In his 90s, he remembered meeting her in the hometown store a couple years earlier when visiting the store in Manhattan where we were in school at the time and she worked in that store...while not metal-working, there were metal coins in the pay envelopes... -- |
#24
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sunday, April 24, 2016 at 8:49:03 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. -- Ed Huntress Sorry about that, but I and Cydrome Leader both remember mil as being the same as a thousandth. We are not all as young as you. Dan |
#25
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 09:06:12 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On Sunday, April 24, 2016 at 8:49:03 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote: Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. -- Ed Huntress Sorry about that, but I and Cydrome Leader both remember mil as being the same as a thousandth. We are not all as young as you. You know, I knew some old fart would pop up with that, as soon as I wrote it. g What I should have said is that it all but disappeared in *print*. It migrated over to the sheet-material field, where it eventually became concentrated in plastic materials. I wrote a few articles for _Modern Plastics_ and _Plastics Technology_ (on moldmaking) in the '70s and '80s, and I noted it was being used by them. I've seen it used for sheet metals, too, but only very rarely. -- Ed Huntress Dan |
#26
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sunday, April 24, 2016 at 12:06:15 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, April 24, 2016 at 8:49:03 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote: Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. -- Ed Huntress Sorry about that, but I and Cydrome Leader both remember mil as being the same as a thousandth. We are not all as young as you. Dan I do too, but that was in a shop that was run by people well into their 70s, back in the late 1970s. The problem was that mil was used universally for thousandth of an inch, millivolt and milliamp. |
#27
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
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#28
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 19:57:48 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: wrote: On Sunday, April 24, 2016 at 8:49:03 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote: Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. -- Ed Huntress Sorry about that, but I and Cydrome Leader both remember mil as being the same as a thousandth. We are not all as young as you. I've been trying to figure out where I learned mil from. While I do have an electronic-ish background, it's not really a unit you'd use when repairing something. It's likely from an an older designer or engineer friend. Circular mils are still common enough when it comes to electrical guages, such as a 500MCM cable, even though that's sort of a weird unit- "thousand circular mils." Pretty sure that's the same as a 1/2" copper rod. A circular mil refers to the cross-sectional area of a wire with a diameter of 0.001 inch. The formula is A = d^2, where A is the area in circular mils and d is the diameter of the wire in mils. So a 1/2 inch rod is 250,000 circular mils. It keeps you from having to use pi to calculate the cross-sectional area of a wire; if you know the current-carrying capacity in circular mils, you just use the A=d^2 formula to calculate the current-carrying capacity of a wire of any diameter. -- Ed Huntress |
#29
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 19:57:48 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: wrote: On Sunday, April 24, 2016 at 8:49:03 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote: Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. -- Ed Huntress Sorry about that, but I and Cydrome Leader both remember mil as being the same as a thousandth. We are not all as young as you. I've been trying to figure out where I learned mil from. While I do have an electronic-ish background, it's not really a unit you'd use when repairing something. It's likely from an an older designer or engineer friend. Circular mils are still common enough when it comes to electrical guages, such as a 500MCM cable, even though that's sort of a weird unit- "thousand circular mils." Pretty sure that's the same as a 1/2" copper rod. its been used a lot in miltiary parlance, generally visa vis maps and artillery fire |
#30
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 19:57:48 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: wrote: On Sunday, April 24, 2016 at 8:49:03 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote: Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. -- Ed Huntress Sorry about that, but I and Cydrome Leader both remember mil as being the same as a thousandth. We are not all as young as you. I've been trying to figure out where I learned mil from. While I do have an electronic-ish background, it's not really a unit you'd use when repairing something. It's likely from an an older designer or engineer friend. Circular mils are still common enough when it comes to electrical guages, such as a 500MCM cable, even though that's sort of a weird unit- "thousand circular mils." Pretty sure that's the same as a 1/2" copper rod. You sure about that??? Comes out to more like a 3/4 inch copper rod (actually 0.8" diameter) |
#31
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 09:53:34 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 20:12:37 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 08:48:57 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 18:21:21 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 06:43:15 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:21:47 +0700, Good Soldier Schweik wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:00:29 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc I hate to agree with you but I never heard the term "mil" until very recently and I worked in and around the business since I was in High School. It was always 3 thousandths (.003) or 3 tenths (.0003) for smaller dimensions. Before the late 1930s, "mil" was used commonly in machining, too. Well, I wasn't around the shops in the "late 1930's" :-) But I did for a couple of weeks run a lathe that the cross slide was calibrated in 1/128th of an inch. The owner of the shop reckoned it dated from "Civil War Days". When they're that old, you should sell them to interior decorators for use as foliage planters. They look nice with a Wandering Jew twined around the bedways, standing between a miniature palm and a ficus tree. d8-) Well, this was when I was in High School and the shop was at least 2nd generation in the same building. It was owned and operated by two bachelor brothers who didn't talk to each other. The entire shop except for some bench grinders operated from a single electric motor "out back" driving an overhead shaft system. Strangely I don't remember thinking it was an odd place to work :-) One of the brothers had an absolutely like new Henderson 4 cylinder motorcycle that he used to ride to work occasionally which certainly was interesting. As a summer hire apprentice I wasn't doing any high tech stuff, they had me making nuts on the old lathe. Even then, making 50 cents an hour, I can't see how the finances worked. 12 ft of hex stock in an antique lathe, Drill, tap, part off, advance the stock a bit and do it again. Sort of a human screw machine :-) At least he didn't have you start with round bar stock... But they paid every Friday afternoon at quitting time. Cash in the hand. When I hear stories like that, I wonder how the United States, and the West in general, ever managed to produce anything that anyone could afford. Just before wire EDM came into use, I started covering tool and diemaking, and visited a lot of t&d shops. I watched diemakers rough out blanking dies with a bandsaw, breaking the blade, threading it through the work (they milled out a really rough hole first, but it usually was nowhere near the final size), and then re-welding the blade back together. Then they'd break the blade to remove the die from the saw, and they'd go to work with diemaker's chisels, cutting close to the line and chiseling in some die relief. Then, possibly, on to the die-filer. Next, hand-filing with files down to jeweler-file size. After that, the die would go out for heat-treating. When I was at Edwards AFB they had an "Electric Spark Machine". I was there for about a year and saw it used just once. A guy made a set of dies to punch out counterfeit quarters for the Coke Machine. Interestingly he tried a number of alloys for his counterfeit quarters and the Coke Machine rejected them all :-) When it came back, out came the slips and stones, trial-mating the die with a punch, re-stoning to fit, over and over. That was for simple diesets. Anything complicated was likely to require a multi-part die, which had to be fitted together in pieces that were dowelled to the die base. My God... In 1977, I was one of the writers for American Machinist's 100th Anniversary issue. For a year, we all poured through the old AM archives, going back 100 years. The term "mil," for thousandth, appeared all of the time in the old volumes, as a slangy shorthand, like the way we use the term "tenths" today. Then, I'd say roughly in the late '30s, the term "mil" all but disappeared. Universal use of gage blocks, sub-thousandths accuracy, aircraft and military specs combined to add another decimal point to required accuracies. American Machinist adopted a style point of using numerical values to express accuracy, with a zero before the decimal point for metrics, and with no leading zero for inch-based dimensions. Written out in English, we used "thousandths," "ten-thousandths," and "microinches." Metrics were a problem child, as we first used "micron," and then, when SI came in vogue, "micro-meter." Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. BTW, don't get me started on "gage" versus "gauge." That one has a history, too. There used to be an important distinction, but that distinction has been lost in time. -- Cheers, John B. |
#32
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 08:56:26 -0500, dpb wrote:
On 04/24/2016 8:12 AM, John B. wrote: ... As a summer hire apprentice I wasn't doing any high tech stuff, they had me making nuts on the old lathe. Even then, making 50 cents an hour, I can't see how the finances worked. 12 ft of hex stock in an antique lathe, Drill, tap, part off, advance the stock a bit and do it again. Sort of a human screw machine :-) Can't help but wonder what size these would've been and who was the customer? All except the most unusual would seem to have been bulk items long before then... It was a LONG time ago but as I remember it they were normal sized nuts. Nothing that you couldn't buy off the shelf in the local hardware store. But "back in the day" apprentices did not argue with the Boss, so I never asked :-) But they paid every Friday afternoon at quitting time. Cash in the hand. ... JC Penney paid my (then future) wife in cash in $2 bills and change every week in those days, too, when J. C. himself was still around. In his 90s, he remembered meeting her in the hometown store a couple years earlier when visiting the store in Manhattan where we were in school at the time and she worked in that store...while not metal-working, there were metal coins in the pay envelopes... :-) I was stationed at an airbase near Selma, Alabama and the local folks didn't appreciate the Air Base people at all. The Base Commander arranged for us to be paid in 2 dollar bills and silver dollars one payday. There was a noticeable warming of the town's attitude toward us thereafter. -- Cheers, John B. |
#33
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:44:12 +0700, John B.
wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 09:53:34 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 20:12:37 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 08:48:57 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 18:21:21 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 06:43:15 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:21:47 +0700, Good Soldier Schweik wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:00:29 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc I hate to agree with you but I never heard the term "mil" until very recently and I worked in and around the business since I was in High School. It was always 3 thousandths (.003) or 3 tenths (.0003) for smaller dimensions. Before the late 1930s, "mil" was used commonly in machining, too. Well, I wasn't around the shops in the "late 1930's" :-) But I did for a couple of weeks run a lathe that the cross slide was calibrated in 1/128th of an inch. The owner of the shop reckoned it dated from "Civil War Days". When they're that old, you should sell them to interior decorators for use as foliage planters. They look nice with a Wandering Jew twined around the bedways, standing between a miniature palm and a ficus tree. d8-) Well, this was when I was in High School and the shop was at least 2nd generation in the same building. It was owned and operated by two bachelor brothers who didn't talk to each other. The entire shop except for some bench grinders operated from a single electric motor "out back" driving an overhead shaft system. Strangely I don't remember thinking it was an odd place to work :-) One of the brothers had an absolutely like new Henderson 4 cylinder motorcycle that he used to ride to work occasionally which certainly was interesting. As a summer hire apprentice I wasn't doing any high tech stuff, they had me making nuts on the old lathe. Even then, making 50 cents an hour, I can't see how the finances worked. 12 ft of hex stock in an antique lathe, Drill, tap, part off, advance the stock a bit and do it again. Sort of a human screw machine :-) At least he didn't have you start with round bar stock... But they paid every Friday afternoon at quitting time. Cash in the hand. When I hear stories like that, I wonder how the United States, and the West in general, ever managed to produce anything that anyone could afford. Just before wire EDM came into use, I started covering tool and diemaking, and visited a lot of t&d shops. I watched diemakers rough out blanking dies with a bandsaw, breaking the blade, threading it through the work (they milled out a really rough hole first, but it usually was nowhere near the final size), and then re-welding the blade back together. Then they'd break the blade to remove the die from the saw, and they'd go to work with diemaker's chisels, cutting close to the line and chiseling in some die relief. Then, possibly, on to the die-filer. Next, hand-filing with files down to jeweler-file size. After that, the die would go out for heat-treating. When I was at Edwards AFB they had an "Electric Spark Machine". I was there for about a year and saw it used just once. A guy made a set of dies to punch out counterfeit quarters for the Coke Machine. I'm curious -- what year was that? Interestingly he tried a number of alloys for his counterfeit quarters and the Coke Machine rejected them all :-) He was too early. Today, he probably could get away with any scrap metal. g When it came back, out came the slips and stones, trial-mating the die with a punch, re-stoning to fit, over and over. That was for simple diesets. Anything complicated was likely to require a multi-part die, which had to be fitted together in pieces that were dowelled to the die base. My God... In 1977, I was one of the writers for American Machinist's 100th Anniversary issue. For a year, we all poured through the old AM archives, going back 100 years. The term "mil," for thousandth, appeared all of the time in the old volumes, as a slangy shorthand, like the way we use the term "tenths" today. Then, I'd say roughly in the late '30s, the term "mil" all but disappeared. Universal use of gage blocks, sub-thousandths accuracy, aircraft and military specs combined to add another decimal point to required accuracies. American Machinist adopted a style point of using numerical values to express accuracy, with a zero before the decimal point for metrics, and with no leading zero for inch-based dimensions. Written out in English, we used "thousandths," "ten-thousandths," and "microinches." Metrics were a problem child, as we first used "micron," and then, when SI came in vogue, "micro-meter." Anyway, the point is that no one here is old enough to remember the use of "mil" for thousandths of an inch, but some of us who were deeply involved in metalworking history have seen it used a lot in the deep past. BTW, don't get me started on "gage" versus "gauge." That one has a history, too. There used to be an important distinction, but that distinction has been lost in time. |
#34
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 21:50:30 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote: On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:44:12 +0700, John B. wrote: Interestingly he tried a number of alloys for his counterfeit quarters and the Coke Machine rejected them all :-) On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 09:53:34 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: He was too early. Today, he probably could get away with any scrap metal. g The machines I looked at several years ago only took bills. I guess they have them now that you can pay with your smart phone... A different kind of counterfeiting required to bypass them -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#35
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 21:50:30 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote: On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:44:12 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 09:53:34 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 20:12:37 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 08:48:57 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 18:21:21 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 06:43:15 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:21:47 +0700, Good Soldier Schweik wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:00:29 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc I hate to agree with you but I never heard the term "mil" until very recently and I worked in and around the business since I was in High School. It was always 3 thousandths (.003) or 3 tenths (.0003) for smaller dimensions. Before the late 1930s, "mil" was used commonly in machining, too. Well, I wasn't around the shops in the "late 1930's" :-) But I did for a couple of weeks run a lathe that the cross slide was calibrated in 1/128th of an inch. The owner of the shop reckoned it dated from "Civil War Days". When they're that old, you should sell them to interior decorators for use as foliage planters. They look nice with a Wandering Jew twined around the bedways, standing between a miniature palm and a ficus tree. d8-) Well, this was when I was in High School and the shop was at least 2nd generation in the same building. It was owned and operated by two bachelor brothers who didn't talk to each other. The entire shop except for some bench grinders operated from a single electric motor "out back" driving an overhead shaft system. Strangely I don't remember thinking it was an odd place to work :-) One of the brothers had an absolutely like new Henderson 4 cylinder motorcycle that he used to ride to work occasionally which certainly was interesting. As a summer hire apprentice I wasn't doing any high tech stuff, they had me making nuts on the old lathe. Even then, making 50 cents an hour, I can't see how the finances worked. 12 ft of hex stock in an antique lathe, Drill, tap, part off, advance the stock a bit and do it again. Sort of a human screw machine :-) At least he didn't have you start with round bar stock... But they paid every Friday afternoon at quitting time. Cash in the hand. When I hear stories like that, I wonder how the United States, and the West in general, ever managed to produce anything that anyone could afford. Just before wire EDM came into use, I started covering tool and diemaking, and visited a lot of t&d shops. I watched diemakers rough out blanking dies with a bandsaw, breaking the blade, threading it through the work (they milled out a really rough hole first, but it usually was nowhere near the final size), and then re-welding the blade back together. Then they'd break the blade to remove the die from the saw, and they'd go to work with diemaker's chisels, cutting close to the line and chiseling in some die relief. Then, possibly, on to the die-filer. Next, hand-filing with files down to jeweler-file size. After that, the die would go out for heat-treating. When I was at Edwards AFB they had an "Electric Spark Machine". I was there for about a year and saw it used just once. A guy made a set of dies to punch out counterfeit quarters for the Coke Machine. I'm curious -- what year was that? It must have been in the mid 1960's. They also had a "tape controlled" machine there that would do things automatically. It could even change tools, or so I was told. One guy had been to school on the control system but it was never used while I was there. I did ask the guy how it worked and it used a punched tape like a telex machine. The left column was, say longitudinal travel, and one punch was one increment of movement. -- Cheers, John B. |
#36
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:26:16 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 21:50:30 -0400 Ed Huntress wrote: On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:44:12 +0700, John B. wrote: Interestingly he tried a number of alloys for his counterfeit quarters and the Coke Machine rejected them all :-) On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 09:53:34 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: He was too early. Today, he probably could get away with any scrap metal. g The machines I looked at several years ago only took bills. I guess they have them now that you can pay with your smart phone... A different kind of counterfeiting required to bypass them Once again, technology opens up endless entrepreneurial opportunities. d8-) -- Ed Huntress |
#37
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 19:38:27 +0700, John B.
wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 21:50:30 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:44:12 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 09:53:34 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 20:12:37 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 08:48:57 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 18:21:21 +0700, John B. wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 06:43:15 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:21:47 +0700, Good Soldier Schweik wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:00:29 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sat, 23 Apr 2016 23:23:18 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I indicated 3/8" barstock to "close enough" of about 3 mils in a 3 jaw, centerdrilled and used a livecenter. 3 mils???? 0.003" Oh..you mean 3 thousandths. NOBODY says 3 mils when machining..least not in the US. Only in plastic sheet making will you find it..and thats not machining..thats extruding Slang would be 3/1000s, 3k, an RCH, etc etc I hate to agree with you but I never heard the term "mil" until very recently and I worked in and around the business since I was in High School. It was always 3 thousandths (.003) or 3 tenths (.0003) for smaller dimensions. Before the late 1930s, "mil" was used commonly in machining, too. Well, I wasn't around the shops in the "late 1930's" :-) But I did for a couple of weeks run a lathe that the cross slide was calibrated in 1/128th of an inch. The owner of the shop reckoned it dated from "Civil War Days". When they're that old, you should sell them to interior decorators for use as foliage planters. They look nice with a Wandering Jew twined around the bedways, standing between a miniature palm and a ficus tree. d8-) Well, this was when I was in High School and the shop was at least 2nd generation in the same building. It was owned and operated by two bachelor brothers who didn't talk to each other. The entire shop except for some bench grinders operated from a single electric motor "out back" driving an overhead shaft system. Strangely I don't remember thinking it was an odd place to work :-) One of the brothers had an absolutely like new Henderson 4 cylinder motorcycle that he used to ride to work occasionally which certainly was interesting. As a summer hire apprentice I wasn't doing any high tech stuff, they had me making nuts on the old lathe. Even then, making 50 cents an hour, I can't see how the finances worked. 12 ft of hex stock in an antique lathe, Drill, tap, part off, advance the stock a bit and do it again. Sort of a human screw machine :-) At least he didn't have you start with round bar stock... But they paid every Friday afternoon at quitting time. Cash in the hand. When I hear stories like that, I wonder how the United States, and the West in general, ever managed to produce anything that anyone could afford. Just before wire EDM came into use, I started covering tool and diemaking, and visited a lot of t&d shops. I watched diemakers rough out blanking dies with a bandsaw, breaking the blade, threading it through the work (they milled out a really rough hole first, but it usually was nowhere near the final size), and then re-welding the blade back together. Then they'd break the blade to remove the die from the saw, and they'd go to work with diemaker's chisels, cutting close to the line and chiseling in some die relief. Then, possibly, on to the die-filer. Next, hand-filing with files down to jeweler-file size. After that, the die would go out for heat-treating. When I was at Edwards AFB they had an "Electric Spark Machine". I was there for about a year and saw it used just once. A guy made a set of dies to punch out counterfeit quarters for the Coke Machine. I'm curious -- what year was that? It must have been in the mid 1960's. Ah, OK, that fits. Sinker-type EDMs were pretty capable by then, and you could use a quarter, say, as an electrode, to burn the end of a punch or die. But I think you'd go through a lot of quarters doing it. Tungsten-silver was a premium electrode material, but I think that plain silver would melt off pretty quickly. They also had a "tape controlled" machine there that would do things automatically. It could even change tools, or so I was told. One guy had been to school on the control system but it was never used while I was there. I did ask the guy how it worked and it used a punched tape like a telex machine. The left column was, say longitudinal travel, and one punch was one increment of movement. Um...that's how I learned lathe programming. We had a Sheldon 1710H controlled by a Bendix 5 NC, and a teletypewriter to key in and punch the paper tape. I could program straight cylinders and tapers, and face them off, IIRC. g I never did any actual work with it; the real machinists wanted to play with it and hogged the keyboard. For anything complex, we used a telephone-connected time-sharing system that did the programming by computer. -- Ed Huntress |
#38
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:44:12 +0700
John B. wrote: snip Interestingly he tried a number of alloys for his counterfeit quarters and the Coke Machine rejected them all :-) Mid 70's... one of my fellow shop class students figured out that he could re-size pennies using the 1 inch vertical belt sander. Schools vending machines took them as dimes. He was caught a short time later working at the belt sander -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#39
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 09:35:47 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote: On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:44:12 +0700 John B. wrote: snip Interestingly he tried a number of alloys for his counterfeit quarters and the Coke Machine rejected them all :-) Mid 70's... one of my fellow shop class students figured out that he could re-size pennies using the 1 inch vertical belt sander. Schools vending machines took them as dimes. He was caught a short time later working at the belt sander Imagine doing time in a federal prison for counterfeiting dimes. g -- Ed Huntress |
#40
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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brass vs bronze for making a punch
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 09:47:39 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote: On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 09:35:47 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote: On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:44:12 +0700 John B. wrote: snip [...] Mid 70's... one of my fellow shop class students figured out that he could re-size pennies using the 1 inch vertical belt sander. Schools vending machines took them as dimes. He was caught a short time later working at the belt sander Imagine doing time in a federal prison for counterfeiting dimes. g After reading John's story I wonder if the pennies material helped it to be accepted. Some of those machines had pretty innovative means of detecting real coins. The thing that tripped the kid up was using the schools shop equipment. If he could have done the work elsewhere it would have taken a lot longer to catch him. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
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