I see the how to drill stainless comes up every couple weeks. Here's a
variation.

What's the trick to knurl stainless? I was looking at some dental tools
that have a beautiful job and are clearly quite hard. Some other stainless
parts I've examined have botched up knurl jobs, but for adding friction
for a grip, it's good enough.

I've knurled unhardened steels, brass and aluminum on the Sherline lathe.
It's takes a couple passes some times, but there's enough fudge factor
where the results are fine. I've not bothered to try stainless, but I
suspect the multiple pass trick just isn't going to work at all,
especially on a small machine.

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:n1talg
:

What's the trick to knurl stainless?

Essentially, knurl it to full depth in two or three revolutions. (think
SLOOOOW spindle speed) Otherwise, just like in drilling, it will work-
harden, and not move anymore after that.

It helps - a lot - to use a clamping-style knurl. Side-pressure knurls
often can't provide enough force to do it cleanly in that few revolutions;
at least not without creating some undesirable forces on your cross-feed.

Lloyd

On Tuesday, November 10, 2015 at 9:48:36 AM UTC-8, Cydrome Leader wrote:
I see the how to drill stainless comes up every couple weeks. Here's a
variation.

What's the trick to knurl stainless? I was looking at some dental tools
that have a beautiful job and are clearly quite hard. Some other stainless
parts I've examined have botched up knurl jobs, but for adding friction
for a grip, it's good enough.

I've knurled unhardened steels, brass and aluminum on the Sherline lathe.
It's takes a couple passes some times, but there's enough fudge factor
where the results are fine. I've not bothered to try stainless, but I
suspect the multiple pass trick just isn't going to work at all,
especially on a small machine.


The trick is to use the right tool which is a straddle knurler:

http://www.accu-trak.com/holders_straddle.html

On Tue, 10 Nov 2015 17:48:32 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:


What's the trick to knurl stainless? I was looking at some dental tools
that have a beautiful job and are clearly quite hard. Some other stainless
parts I've examined have botched up knurl jobs, but for adding friction
for a grip, it's good enough.

Best to use a Cut type Knurling tool for the tough stuff

https://www.toolingsolutions.com/cat...rling-2012.pdf

Russ Haggerty fired this volley in
:

Best to use a Cut type Knurling tool for the tough stuff

Yeah... but most of the common SS alloys aren't "the tough stuff", they
just require more care and knowledge of their properties than, say,
aluminum.

Lloyd

On Tuesday, November 10, 2015 at 10:38:17 AM UTC-8, jon_banquer wrote:

The trick is to use the right tool which is a straddle knurler:

http://www.accu-trak.com/holders_straddle.html


Does this help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q391jLb4K28

On 2015-11-10, Cydrome Leader wrote:
I see the how to drill stainless comes up every couple weeks. Here's a
variation.

What's the trick to knurl stainless? I was looking at some dental tools
that have a beautiful job and are clearly quite hard. Some other stainless
parts I've examined have botched up knurl jobs, but for adding friction
for a grip, it's good enough.

I've knurled unhardened steels, brass and aluminum on the Sherline lathe.
It's takes a couple passes some times, but there's enough fudge factor
where the results are fine. I've not bothered to try stainless, but I
suspect the multiple pass trick just isn't going to work at all,
especially on a small machine.

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Lloyd

On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Last I specifically looked for them in MSC, they were
significantly over $1000.00 -- and my 12x24" lathe was about the same.
Granted, the lathe was from 1957, and the cut style knurl was brand new.
:-)

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

And yes -- you *can* get them for less on eBay -- but if you
need them right *now* for a paid project, you have to deal with the new
price. :-)

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 12 Nov 2015 02:23:39 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Last I specifically looked for them in MSC, they were
significantly over $1000.00 -- and my 12x24" lathe was about the same.
Granted, the lathe was from 1957, and the cut style knurl was brand new.
:-)

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

And yes -- you *can* get them for less on eBay -- but if you
need them right *now* for a paid project, you have to deal with the new
price. :-)

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Glad you're recovering, DoN, and hope your life is a little less
eventful for a while. How's the fire recovery coming?

Pete Keillor

On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 06:12:13 -0600, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On 12 Nov 2015 02:23:39 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Last I specifically looked for them in MSC, they were
significantly over $1000.00 -- and my 12x24" lathe was about the same.
Granted, the lathe was from 1957, and the cut style knurl was brand new.
:-)

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

And yes -- you *can* get them for less on eBay -- but if you
need them right *now* for a paid project, you have to deal with the new
price. :-)

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Glad you're recovering, DoN, and hope your life is a little less
eventful for a while. How's the fire recovery coming?

Pete Keillor

Could you insert a close fitting drill rod into the dental pick
temporarily to prevent it from collapsing while it is being knurled?

On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 8:17:13 AM UTC-5, wrote:


Could you insert a close fitting drill rod into the dental pick
temporarily to prevent it from collapsing while it is being knurled?

My gut thought is that if the rod is preventing the hollow dental pick from collapsing, then you will not be able to get the rod out.

Dan

wrote in message
...
On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 8:17:13 AM UTC-5,
wrote:


Could you insert a close fitting drill rod into the dental pick
temporarily to prevent it from collapsing while it is being
knurled?

My gut thought is that if the rod is preventing the hollow dental
pick from collapsing, then you will not be able to get the rod out.

Dan

The knurls only press two opposite sides in, they don't shrink the
tube - they may even expand and lengthen it. Last week I pounded a
home-made swage rod into a steel tube to straighten and expand it
slightly, then pulled it out easily after hammering the OD a little.

-jsw

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Last I specifically looked for them in MSC, they were
significantly over $1000.00 -- and my 12x24" lathe was about the same.
Granted, the lathe was from 1957, and the cut style knurl was brand new.
:-)

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

The picks I examined are solid and a touch over 1/4". I don't need to make
new ones or anything like that, but am curious about the good quality work
that went into them.

In production world, what sort of oil or coolant would be used? It's not
really a cutting operation with conventional knurling wheels, but I
suspect it's not an operation done dry either.

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

And yes -- you *can* get them for less on eBay -- but if you
need them right *now* for a paid project, you have to deal with the new
price. :-)

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Did you get to keep your parts?

On 2015-11-12, Pete Keillor wrote:
On 12 Nov 2015 02:23:39 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

[ ... Original discussion snipped and "Subject: Header changed ... ]

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Glad you're recovering, DoN, and hope your life is a little less
eventful for a while. How's the fire recovery coming?

The arm is getting better -- but a lot of PT still to go through.

The shop is usable by now -- with the Nichols mill, the Clausing
12x24" lathe, and the little Compact-5/CNC lathe working along with many
other things.

The Bridgeport, where the fire started, is being rebuilt. I got
a BiJur oil pump to replace the dead one, and lots of expensive little
plumbing bits, and have it all connected except the lube to the head and
its ball screw. (Still taking that apart as my arm allows. It is
spread out on the floor.

But -- I was able to build a 10-meter J-pole antenna and get it
installed before going back into surgery to recover the titanium parts.
Interesting screws and plates. Looks like a Torx variant, though I
haven't counted splines yet. (The overall length of the antenna is about
27', but all aluminum, so not too heavy. :-)

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2015-11-12, wrote:
On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 06:12:13 -0600, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On 12 Nov 2015 02:23:39 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

[ ... ]

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

[ ... ]

Could you insert a close fitting drill rod into the dental pick
temporarily to prevent it from collapsing while it is being knurled?

Well ... the ones which I have seen are double-ended, with a
taper down to each pick insert, and I suspect silver solder to join
parts, but yes, you *could* support it that way, cut off a knurled
section, and then silver solder the cones in place. (Or perhaps, if it
all has to be stainless steel, TIG weld it with a machine to hold the
parts and rotate.

Some of the ones I have are small enough, and sold enough, so
they could handle the crush, but the better ones are larger diameter and
lighter wall thickness, so they are easier to control in the victim's
mouth (mine). :-) So, it depends, I guess.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2015-11-12, Cydrome Leader wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

[ ... ]

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

The picks I examined are solid and a touch over 1/4". I don't need to make
new ones or anything like that, but am curious about the good quality work
that went into them.

While it could be done with opposed knurls, I suspect that it
was done with cut style knurls. They produce sharper diamonds and thus
better non-slip grips.

Of course, we don't know what alloys are used for dental tools.
I would suspect something like 316 SS (Also used for making photo
processing tanks back in the days of the Nikkor tanks.)

In production world, what sort of oil or coolant would be used? It's not
really a cutting operation with conventional knurling wheels, but I
suspect it's not an operation done dry either.

I tend to use either Sul-Flo or Moly-Dee -- both good
high-pressure lubricants for normal crush knurling. In particular, to
keep the pins on which the knurls turn from being worn.

But for a cut style knurler, a cutting lube would be preferred.

[ ... ]

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Did you get to keep your parts?

Yep! One titanium plate, and an even dozen titanium
self-threading screws (specialized for threading in bone. :-)

It had to be cleaned and sterilized before I could receive the
package.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 12 Nov 2015 23:52:11 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:
Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Did you get to keep your parts?

Yep! One titanium plate, and an even dozen titanium
self-threading screws (specialized for threading in bone. :-)

Cool. Got GIFs?


It had to be cleaned and sterilized before I could receive the
package.

Autoclaved?

--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear
ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson

On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 18:08:23 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Last I specifically looked for them in MSC, they were
significantly over $1000.00 -- and my 12x24" lathe was about the same.
Granted, the lathe was from 1957, and the cut style knurl was brand new.
:-)

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

The picks I examined are solid and a touch over 1/4". I don't need to make
new ones or anything like that, but am curious about the good quality work
that went into them.

In production world, what sort of oil or coolant would be used? It's not
really a cutting operation with conventional knurling wheels, but I
suspect it's not an operation done dry either.

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

And yes -- you *can* get them for less on eBay -- but if you
need them right *now* for a paid project, you have to deal with the new
price. :-)

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Did you get to keep your parts?
As someone who has done plenty of production knurling I can tell you a
little about knurling. When forming a knurl water based coolant
usually works fine. For best results the coolant or oil used should be
one that has high pressure additives. Especially if knurling tough
materials like 316SS. Depending on the knurl type and the material it
is possible to form knurls that are quite sharp. If cutting knurls are
used then the oil or coolant chosen should be the same one chosen for
regular machining. On a screw machine a neat oil or an oil with
additives might be used more often than water soluble oil coolant. But
in a lathe that runs many different types of work water soluble oil
coolant would probably be used. Knurling is not as simple as it
appears at first glance and the material being knurled has a lot to do
with the type of knurl that will work best. Free machining brass is a
material that would seem to be a good candidate for form knurling but
it is actually better knurled with a cut type knurl. This is because
it work hardens very fast and then starts to flake. On the other hand
304SS can usually be form knurled with excellent results.
Eric

On 12 Nov 2015 23:23:32 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-12, Pete Keillor wrote:
On 12 Nov 2015 02:23:39 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

[ ... Original discussion snipped and "Subject: Header changed ... ]

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Glad you're recovering, DoN, and hope your life is a little less
eventful for a while. How's the fire recovery coming?

The arm is getting better -- but a lot of PT still to go through.

The shop is usable by now -- with the Nichols mill, the Clausing
12x24" lathe, and the little Compact-5/CNC lathe working along with many
other things.

The Bridgeport, where the fire started, is being rebuilt. I got
a BiJur oil pump to replace the dead one, and lots of expensive little
plumbing bits, and have it all connected except the lube to the head and
its ball screw. (Still taking that apart as my arm allows. It is
spread out on the floor.

But -- I was able to build a 10-meter J-pole antenna and get it
installed before going back into surgery to recover the titanium parts.
Interesting screws and plates. Looks like a Torx variant, though I
haven't counted splines yet. (The overall length of the antenna is about
27', but all aluminum, so not too heavy. :-)

Thanks,
DoN.
DoN,
Why was the metal removed? Was it causing problems? I ask because I
have LOTS of titanium and SS in both arms, my pelvis, and my back and
none of these plates and screws have caused any problems. And all
these metal bits have been in place for over a decade.
Eric

On 2015-11-13, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 12 Nov 2015 23:52:11 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:
Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Did you get to keep your parts?

Yep! One titanium plate, and an even dozen titanium
self-threading screws (specialized for threading in bone. :-)

Cool. Got GIFs?

I will once I tear open the baggie. I did take one shot of the
baggie itself, with some of the parts visible in there, but I expect to
open it up, spread them out in a nice array, and photograph plate and
screws, followed by detail photos of the points and heads.

But I'm keeping it sealed until I use it to convince my dentist
that I no longer need to take aitibiotics prior to a tooth cleaning.
(Apparently, embedded metal is considered a focus of blood-borne
infections stirred up by the tooth cleaning process. :-)

I'll be putting the photos of the screws in my web page about
the arm experience rather than trying to e-mail photos to the world.

The heads look like Torx (to be verified by test-fitting to
existing drivers once the baggie is open). They appear to be a shape
and size so they will mostly bury in the holes in the plate while
allowing setting at various angles as needed. (Again, to be experimented
with once the bag is open.

It had to be cleaned and sterilized before I could receive the
package.

Autoclaved?

Yep -- in a partially clear baggie, with a visible indicator
strip which shows that it got hot enough for long enough to be safe to
handle -- even if I had ebola. :-)

At least my arm is getting easier to live with much more quickly
than last time. No significant bone healing to do -- other than to
fill the holes where the screws were -- and after a week I can do a lot
of things which it took a couple of months or more (plus P.T.) to reach
from the previous surgery.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2015-11-13, wrote:
On 12 Nov 2015 23:23:32 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

[ ... Original discussion snipped and "Subject: Header changed ... ]

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Glad you're recovering, DoN, and hope your life is a little less
eventful for a while. How's the fire recovery coming?

The arm is getting better -- but a lot of PT still to go through.

[ ... ]

But -- I was able to build a 10-meter J-pole antenna and get it
installed before going back into surgery to recover the titanium parts.
Interesting screws and plates. Looks like a Torx variant, though I
haven't counted splines yet. (The overall length of the antenna is about
27', but all aluminum, so not too heavy. :-)

Thanks,
DoN.
DoN,
Why was the metal removed? Was it causing problems? I ask because I
have LOTS of titanium and SS in both arms, my pelvis, and my back and
none of these plates and screws have caused any problems. And all
these metal bits have been in place for over a decade.

I hit a platform in the P.T. from the original surgery. In part
because the therapist was restricted to avoid work in certain directions
until the surgeon verified that the bone had regrown enough, and by the
time he *could* attack the other motions, things had set up too much.

In addition -- the top end of the plate was up close to the
shoulder socket, and I think that it was hitting there limiting range of
motion in at least one direction. Also, I was getting sort of
"plucking" feelings in the tendons as I went through certain exercises,
suggesting that the head or the point of at least one of the screws was
near a moving part in my muscle system.

Already, I cam move a good part of the way with less pain
(though I will have to live on pain pills during the PT, which is
supposed to be more aggressive this time).

I was just barely able to reach up to the top of the drill press
spider, and unbolting and lowering parts of the Bridgeport CNC mill head
was a real trick. :-)

I don't expect full range, but the ability to get the right arm
up to assist with changing the battery in a ceiling mounted smoke
detector (I need to change the batteries again, of course) would be a
nice benefit. Last spring was a real pain (literal) changing the
batteries. :-)

I really should have done this break earlier, instead of waiting
until I was 73 years old or so. Old farts heal *slowly*. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 14 Nov 2015 03:01:57 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-13, wrote:
On 12 Nov 2015 23:23:32 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

[ ... Original discussion snipped and "Subject: Header changed ... ]

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Glad you're recovering, DoN, and hope your life is a little less
eventful for a while. How's the fire recovery coming?

The arm is getting better -- but a lot of PT still to go through.

[ ... ]

But -- I was able to build a 10-meter J-pole antenna and get it
installed before going back into surgery to recover the titanium parts.
Interesting screws and plates. Looks like a Torx variant, though I
haven't counted splines yet. (The overall length of the antenna is about
27', but all aluminum, so not too heavy. :-)

Thanks,
DoN.
DoN,
Why was the metal removed? Was it causing problems? I ask because I
have LOTS of titanium and SS in both arms, my pelvis, and my back and
none of these plates and screws have caused any problems. And all
these metal bits have been in place for over a decade.

I hit a platform in the P.T. from the original surgery. In part
because the therapist was restricted to avoid work in certain directions
until the surgeon verified that the bone had regrown enough, and by the
time he *could* attack the other motions, things had set up too much.

In addition -- the top end of the plate was up close to the
shoulder socket, and I think that it was hitting there limiting range of
motion in at least one direction. Also, I was getting sort of
"plucking" feelings in the tendons as I went through certain exercises,
suggesting that the head or the point of at least one of the screws was
near a moving part in my muscle system.

Already, I cam move a good part of the way with less pain
(though I will have to live on pain pills during the PT, which is
supposed to be more aggressive this time).

I was just barely able to reach up to the top of the drill press
spider, and unbolting and lowering parts of the Bridgeport CNC mill head
was a real trick. :-)

I don't expect full range, but the ability to get the right arm
up to assist with changing the battery in a ceiling mounted smoke
detector (I need to change the batteries again, of course) would be a
nice benefit. Last spring was a real pain (literal) changing the
batteries. :-)

I really should have done this break earlier, instead of waiting
until I was 73 years old or so. Old farts heal *slowly*. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.
PT can do wonders. After my initial round of reconstructive
surgeries, with pins sticking out of both arms and connected to the
fixation system. I started PT. This was the morning after the crushing
injuries. When I got home from the hospital I could hardly move my
fingers. So I had to do exercises several times a day to free up my
fingers. After the external fixators were removed I started more
aggressive PT. Thought it hurt like hell during several months I was
able to regain complete range of motion for all 10 digits. The PT was
totally worth all the pain. Totally. Good luck with yours.
Eric

On 2015-11-14, wrote:
On 14 Nov 2015 03:01:57 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-13, wrote:
On 12 Nov 2015 23:23:32 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]


[ ... ]

DoN,
Why was the metal removed? Was it causing problems? I ask because I
have LOTS of titanium and SS in both arms, my pelvis, and my back and
none of these plates and screws have caused any problems. And all
these metal bits have been in place for over a decade.

I hit a platform in the P.T. from the original surgery. In part
^^^^^^^^
(make that "plateau". :-)

[ ... ]

I really should have done this break earlier, instead of waiting
until I was 73 years old or so. Old farts heal *slowly*. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.
PT can do wonders. After my initial round of reconstructive
surgeries, with pins sticking out of both arms and connected to the
fixation system. I started PT. This was the morning after the crushing
injuries. When I got home from the hospital I could hardly move my
fingers. So I had to do exercises several times a day to free up my
fingers. After the external fixators were removed I started more
aggressive PT. Thought it hurt like hell during several months I was
able to regain complete range of motion for all 10 digits. The PT was
totally worth all the pain. Totally. Good luck with yours.

Thanks! Yours is an impressive story, and gives me more hope
for progress.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---