I see the how to drill stainless comes up every couple weeks. Here's a
variation.

What's the trick to knurl stainless? I was looking at some dental tools
that have a beautiful job and are clearly quite hard. Some other stainless
parts I've examined have botched up knurl jobs, but for adding friction
for a grip, it's good enough.

I've knurled unhardened steels, brass and aluminum on the Sherline lathe.
It's takes a couple passes some times, but there's enough fudge factor
where the results are fine. I've not bothered to try stainless, but I
suspect the multiple pass trick just isn't going to work at all,
especially on a small machine.

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:n1talg
:

What's the trick to knurl stainless?

Essentially, knurl it to full depth in two or three revolutions. (think
SLOOOOW spindle speed) Otherwise, just like in drilling, it will work-
harden, and not move anymore after that.

It helps - a lot - to use a clamping-style knurl. Side-pressure knurls
often can't provide enough force to do it cleanly in that few revolutions;
at least not without creating some undesirable forces on your cross-feed.

Lloyd

On Tuesday, November 10, 2015 at 9:48:36 AM UTC-8, Cydrome Leader wrote:
I see the how to drill stainless comes up every couple weeks. Here's a
variation.

What's the trick to knurl stainless? I was looking at some dental tools
that have a beautiful job and are clearly quite hard. Some other stainless
parts I've examined have botched up knurl jobs, but for adding friction
for a grip, it's good enough.

I've knurled unhardened steels, brass and aluminum on the Sherline lathe.
It's takes a couple passes some times, but there's enough fudge factor
where the results are fine. I've not bothered to try stainless, but I
suspect the multiple pass trick just isn't going to work at all,
especially on a small machine.


The trick is to use the right tool which is a straddle knurler:

http://www.accu-trak.com/holders_straddle.html

On Tuesday, November 10, 2015 at 10:38:17 AM UTC-8, jon_banquer wrote:

The trick is to use the right tool which is a straddle knurler:

http://www.accu-trak.com/holders_straddle.html


Does this help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q391jLb4K28

On Tue, 10 Nov 2015 17:48:32 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:


What's the trick to knurl stainless? I was looking at some dental tools
that have a beautiful job and are clearly quite hard. Some other stainless
parts I've examined have botched up knurl jobs, but for adding friction
for a grip, it's good enough.

Best to use a Cut type Knurling tool for the tough stuff

https://www.toolingsolutions.com/cat...rling-2012.pdf

Russ Haggerty fired this volley in
:

Best to use a Cut type Knurling tool for the tough stuff

Yeah... but most of the common SS alloys aren't "the tough stuff", they
just require more care and knowledge of their properties than, say,
aluminum.

Lloyd

On 2015-11-10, Cydrome Leader wrote:
I see the how to drill stainless comes up every couple weeks. Here's a
variation.

What's the trick to knurl stainless? I was looking at some dental tools
that have a beautiful job and are clearly quite hard. Some other stainless
parts I've examined have botched up knurl jobs, but for adding friction
for a grip, it's good enough.

I've knurled unhardened steels, brass and aluminum on the Sherline lathe.
It's takes a couple passes some times, but there's enough fudge factor
where the results are fine. I've not bothered to try stainless, but I
suspect the multiple pass trick just isn't going to work at all,
especially on a small machine.

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Lloyd

On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Last I specifically looked for them in MSC, they were
significantly over $1000.00 -- and my 12x24" lathe was about the same.
Granted, the lathe was from 1957, and the cut style knurl was brand new.
:-)

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

And yes -- you *can* get them for less on eBay -- but if you
need them right *now* for a paid project, you have to deal with the new
price. :-)

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 12 Nov 2015 02:23:39 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Last I specifically looked for them in MSC, they were
significantly over $1000.00 -- and my 12x24" lathe was about the same.
Granted, the lathe was from 1957, and the cut style knurl was brand new.
:-)

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

And yes -- you *can* get them for less on eBay -- but if you
need them right *now* for a paid project, you have to deal with the new
price. :-)

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Glad you're recovering, DoN, and hope your life is a little less
eventful for a while. How's the fire recovery coming?

Pete Keillor

On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 06:12:13 -0600, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On 12 Nov 2015 02:23:39 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Last I specifically looked for them in MSC, they were
significantly over $1000.00 -- and my 12x24" lathe was about the same.
Granted, the lathe was from 1957, and the cut style knurl was brand new.
:-)

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

And yes -- you *can* get them for less on eBay -- but if you
need them right *now* for a paid project, you have to deal with the new
price. :-)

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Glad you're recovering, DoN, and hope your life is a little less
eventful for a while. How's the fire recovery coming?

Pete Keillor

Could you insert a close fitting drill rod into the dental pick
temporarily to prevent it from collapsing while it is being knurled?

On 2015-11-12, Pete Keillor wrote:
On 12 Nov 2015 02:23:39 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

[ ... Original discussion snipped and "Subject: Header changed ... ]

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Glad you're recovering, DoN, and hope your life is a little less
eventful for a while. How's the fire recovery coming?

The arm is getting better -- but a lot of PT still to go through.

The shop is usable by now -- with the Nichols mill, the Clausing
12x24" lathe, and the little Compact-5/CNC lathe working along with many
other things.

The Bridgeport, where the fire started, is being rebuilt. I got
a BiJur oil pump to replace the dead one, and lots of expensive little
plumbing bits, and have it all connected except the lube to the head and
its ball screw. (Still taking that apart as my arm allows. It is
spread out on the floor.

But -- I was able to build a 10-meter J-pole antenna and get it
installed before going back into surgery to recover the titanium parts.
Interesting screws and plates. Looks like a Torx variant, though I
haven't counted splines yet. (The overall length of the antenna is about
27', but all aluminum, so not too heavy. :-)

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Last I specifically looked for them in MSC, they were
significantly over $1000.00 -- and my 12x24" lathe was about the same.
Granted, the lathe was from 1957, and the cut style knurl was brand new.
:-)

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

The picks I examined are solid and a touch over 1/4". I don't need to make
new ones or anything like that, but am curious about the good quality work
that went into them.

In production world, what sort of oil or coolant would be used? It's not
really a cutting operation with conventional knurling wheels, but I
suspect it's not an operation done dry either.

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

And yes -- you *can* get them for less on eBay -- but if you
need them right *now* for a paid project, you have to deal with the new
price. :-)

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Did you get to keep your parts?

On 2015-11-12, Cydrome Leader wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

[ ... ]

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

The picks I examined are solid and a touch over 1/4". I don't need to make
new ones or anything like that, but am curious about the good quality work
that went into them.

While it could be done with opposed knurls, I suspect that it
was done with cut style knurls. They produce sharper diamonds and thus
better non-slip grips.

Of course, we don't know what alloys are used for dental tools.
I would suspect something like 316 SS (Also used for making photo
processing tanks back in the days of the Nikkor tanks.)

In production world, what sort of oil or coolant would be used? It's not
really a cutting operation with conventional knurling wheels, but I
suspect it's not an operation done dry either.

I tend to use either Sul-Flo or Moly-Dee -- both good
high-pressure lubricants for normal crush knurling. In particular, to
keep the pins on which the knurls turn from being worn.

But for a cut style knurler, a cutting lube would be preferred.

[ ... ]

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Did you get to keep your parts?

Yep! One titanium plate, and an even dozen titanium
self-threading screws (specialized for threading in bone. :-)

It had to be cleaned and sterilized before I could receive the
package.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Thu, 12 Nov 2015 18:08:23 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-11-11, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

How about a cut style knurling tool. It may cost more than the
lathe did, but it exists. :-)

Haven't been reading the rest of the posts, huh, Don? G

Well ... I did after I posted my thoughts. :-)

(And cut knurls aren't all that expensive...)

Last I specifically looked for them in MSC, they were
significantly over $1000.00 -- and my 12x24" lathe was about the same.
Granted, the lathe was from 1957, and the cut style knurl was brand new.
:-)

O.K. Made by Dorian, $1,188.82 for one with a size range of
0.75" to 5" diameter workpiece. (Not counting the cutters, of course. :-)
And -- a bit larger than my toolpost will handle. (3/4" shank, while I
need a 5/8" shank max.)

So -- this would not cut small enough to do the knurling on
stainless steel dental picks as per the original question (which
typically are hollow for ease of control).

The picks I examined are solid and a touch over 1/4". I don't need to make
new ones or anything like that, but am curious about the good quality work
that went into them.

In production world, what sort of oil or coolant would be used? It's not
really a cutting operation with conventional knurling wheels, but I
suspect it's not an operation done dry either.

Yes -- I have used a scissors style knurling tool to knurl
Stainless Steel -- but that was 416 SS -- a lot more workable than
something like 304. :-)

And for hollow handles for dental picks, I think that the crush
force would be too great and destroy the workpiece. That is why I
suggested cut style knurling tools.

And yes -- you *can* get them for less on eBay -- but if you
need them right *now* for a paid project, you have to deal with the new
price. :-)

Oh yes --- I also did not want to type too much, because I am
recovering from the surgery which removed the titanium plate and screws
from my arm -- which had been broken and repaired about a year ago.
Remember that I was fairly quiet back then, too.

Did you get to keep your parts?
As someone who has done plenty of production knurling I can tell you a
little about knurling. When forming a knurl water based coolant
usually works fine. For best results the coolant or oil used should be
one that has high pressure additives. Especially if knurling tough
materials like 316SS. Depending on the knurl type and the material it
is possible to form knurls that are quite sharp. If cutting knurls are
used then the oil or coolant chosen should be the same one chosen for
regular machining. On a screw machine a neat oil or an oil with
additives might be used more often than water soluble oil coolant. But
in a lathe that runs many different types of work water soluble oil
coolant would probably be used. Knurling is not as simple as it
appears at first glance and the material being knurled has a lot to do
with the type of knurl that will work best. Free machining brass is a
material that would seem to be a good candidate for form knurling but
it is actually better knurled with a cut type knurl. This is because
it work hardens very fast and then starts to flake. On the other hand
304SS can usually be form knurled with excellent results.
Eric