I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last night.

- construction is rather cheap, the quality of the plastic parts do seem
ok though, there' just too many of them. The thing wobbles around on the
table in the instruction video. The markings are crude and vague.
Everything it just a white dot. The parts are too complex for no reason.
I don't get it at all. The amount of knurles and holes and other crap on
the "dust cap" is mind blowing.

- the goofy looking cone device that holds the bit is just a chuck with
six sheet metal fingers for the jaws. It actually seems fine for the task.

- precision of the cam mechanism that lifts and rolls the drill bit across
the diamond drum is sloppy at best. It's just a bunch of plastic that
feels loose yet tight at the same time. It feels like there's plastic
springs in there, somewhere. The internal mechanism is some sort of cheap
die cast metal, but there's just too must plastic crap in the way for it
to be stable.

- the plastic door for cheaning out drill bit dust is a joke. It's like a
crappy remote control battery door that's too hard to operate and will
just snap off. It doesn't have to be made that way either. Cheap and fake
best describe that part.

Tried a 3/32" HSS bit at first. The thing leff jagged burrs all over the
cutting edge, had to stone those off after prying them up with my
fingernail. The bit works fine on wood, sort of struggles with aluminum.

The tried a bit around 1/16". Worked fine, no problems.

5/64th bit seemed ok, the cut surfaces still seemed too rough though, even
when cut with very gentle pressure.

Tried a cobalt bit that was also around 3/32" but had that weird high
speed spiral twist. Not sure what they're called. Tried to grind that to
132 degrees but the thing ended up completely flat like and endmill.
Something with the aggressive twist is messing up the "timing" of the
machine when you align the bit in the chuck. The video and PDF manual
mention nothing about how to deal with this sort of drill bit.

Next I tried the split point feature where you jam the bit into the side
of the machine and the side of the cutting drum cut into the bit at about
90 degrees. Since the fit of the plastic chuck and metal casting is tight
you have basically no control and it's all trial and error to even out the
flutes. What they show in the video is complete and utter nonsense.

The little machine really does cut bits rather quickly, but the cutting
drum is rather aggressive and the finish is really rough, even with a very
light touch. The cut surfaces are not smooth and really need to be stoned.

So far, it's a thumbs down. there's nothing the drill doctor can do other
than make a split point that I can't do by hand with my Tormek grinding
wheel. The Tormek can leave a mirror smooth finish if you want, and since
you can see and feel the cutting action you can control it quite
accurately, even by hand. Even if the angle you use is a little wrong and
both flutes match, you're golden.

I'll play with the thing some more to see what it does to larger bits and
to see if the thing runs better once the plastic starts to wear in some
more and the high points on the cutting drum get knocked off.

They seem to be a love or hate type of machine. Any other first hand
stories here with a drill doctor?

On Wed, 9 Sep 2015 22:31:56 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last night.

- construction is rather cheap, the quality of the plastic parts do seem
ok though, there' just too many of them. The thing wobbles around on the
table in the instruction video. The markings are crude and vague.
Everything it just a white dot. The parts are too complex for no reason.
I don't get it at all. The amount of knurles and holes and other crap on
the "dust cap" is mind blowing.

- the goofy looking cone device that holds the bit is just a chuck with
six sheet metal fingers for the jaws. It actually seems fine for the task.

- precision of the cam mechanism that lifts and rolls the drill bit across
the diamond drum is sloppy at best. It's just a bunch of plastic that
feels loose yet tight at the same time. It feels like there's plastic
springs in there, somewhere. The internal mechanism is some sort of cheap
die cast metal, but there's just too must plastic crap in the way for it
to be stable.

- the plastic door for cheaning out drill bit dust is a joke. It's like a
crappy remote control battery door that's too hard to operate and will
just snap off. It doesn't have to be made that way either. Cheap and fake
best describe that part.

Tried a 3/32" HSS bit at first. The thing leff jagged burrs all over the
cutting edge, had to stone those off after prying them up with my
fingernail. The bit works fine on wood, sort of struggles with aluminum.

The tried a bit around 1/16". Worked fine, no problems.

5/64th bit seemed ok, the cut surfaces still seemed too rough though, even
when cut with very gentle pressure.

Tried a cobalt bit that was also around 3/32" but had that weird high
speed spiral twist. Not sure what they're called. Tried to grind that to
132 degrees but the thing ended up completely flat like and endmill.
Something with the aggressive twist is messing up the "timing" of the
machine when you align the bit in the chuck. The video and PDF manual
mention nothing about how to deal with this sort of drill bit.

Next I tried the split point feature where you jam the bit into the side
of the machine and the side of the cutting drum cut into the bit at about
90 degrees. Since the fit of the plastic chuck and metal casting is tight
you have basically no control and it's all trial and error to even out the
flutes. What they show in the video is complete and utter nonsense.

The little machine really does cut bits rather quickly, but the cutting
drum is rather aggressive and the finish is really rough, even with a very
light touch. The cut surfaces are not smooth and really need to be stoned.

So far, it's a thumbs down. there's nothing the drill doctor can do other
than make a split point that I can't do by hand with my Tormek grinding
wheel. The Tormek can leave a mirror smooth finish if you want, and since
you can see and feel the cutting action you can control it quite
accurately, even by hand. Even if the angle you use is a little wrong and
both flutes match, you're golden.

I'll play with the thing some more to see what it does to larger bits and
to see if the thing runs better once the plastic starts to wear in some
more and the high points on the cutting drum get knocked off.

They seem to be a love or hate type of machine. Any other first hand
stories here with a drill doctor?

Ive got 1 or 2 of those little *******s kicking around the shop. Never
did much care for them..and for the same reasons you gave. I did
replace one wheel with a finer grit and it works "better". Maybe Ill
dig em out and offer em up here. They work well enough for non
ferrous drilling...shrug.

Darex M500 is what I use, when I use a bit sharpener. Its good. Not
great..but...good. I have a pair of them, one in storage.

Guy offered me a Black Diamond sharpener a couple weeks ago. It too
"works"..but digging through all the freaking collets for the "right
one" is a pain in the ass. I passed on it..and sold it for him for
$1500, along with the cabinet and a ****load of collets. Everybody
was happy.

Picked up a Black and Decker drill sharpener last week..motor was not
turning..lubed the bearings and it spins up now. Havent tried it
yet..anyone know anything about them visa vis utility?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker...-/171876878517

Gunner

I use one to save a drill. One that was broken or chipped.

It puts a cone nose on the drill, not two flats. The back edge needs
relief.

I use cross point and never go small on drills - I do them by hand.
I use the 3/4" holder and standard holder - about 1/4 or 3/8 is the
smallest I'll go. Precision alignment must be done when setting up.

The cutting wheel is a diamond Ring. Do light cuts and don't get
it hot and burn the diamonds up.

Martin

On 9/9/2015 5:31 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last night.

- construction is rather cheap, the quality of the plastic parts do seem
ok though, there' just too many of them. The thing wobbles around on the
table in the instruction video. The markings are crude and vague.
Everything it just a white dot. The parts are too complex for no reason.
I don't get it at all. The amount of knurles and holes and other crap on
the "dust cap" is mind blowing.

- the goofy looking cone device that holds the bit is just a chuck with
six sheet metal fingers for the jaws. It actually seems fine for the task.

- precision of the cam mechanism that lifts and rolls the drill bit across
the diamond drum is sloppy at best. It's just a bunch of plastic that
feels loose yet tight at the same time. It feels like there's plastic
springs in there, somewhere. The internal mechanism is some sort of cheap
die cast metal, but there's just too must plastic crap in the way for it
to be stable.

- the plastic door for cheaning out drill bit dust is a joke. It's like a
crappy remote control battery door that's too hard to operate and will
just snap off. It doesn't have to be made that way either. Cheap and fake
best describe that part.

Tried a 3/32" HSS bit at first. The thing leff jagged burrs all over the
cutting edge, had to stone those off after prying them up with my
fingernail. The bit works fine on wood, sort of struggles with aluminum.

The tried a bit around 1/16". Worked fine, no problems.

5/64th bit seemed ok, the cut surfaces still seemed too rough though, even
when cut with very gentle pressure.

Tried a cobalt bit that was also around 3/32" but had that weird high
speed spiral twist. Not sure what they're called. Tried to grind that to
132 degrees but the thing ended up completely flat like and endmill.
Something with the aggressive twist is messing up the "timing" of the
machine when you align the bit in the chuck. The video and PDF manual
mention nothing about how to deal with this sort of drill bit.

Next I tried the split point feature where you jam the bit into the side
of the machine and the side of the cutting drum cut into the bit at about
90 degrees. Since the fit of the plastic chuck and metal casting is tight
you have basically no control and it's all trial and error to even out the
flutes. What they show in the video is complete and utter nonsense.

The little machine really does cut bits rather quickly, but the cutting
drum is rather aggressive and the finish is really rough, even with a very
light touch. The cut surfaces are not smooth and really need to be stoned.

So far, it's a thumbs down. there's nothing the drill doctor can do other
than make a split point that I can't do by hand with my Tormek grinding
wheel. The Tormek can leave a mirror smooth finish if you want, and since
you can see and feel the cutting action you can control it quite
accurately, even by hand. Even if the angle you use is a little wrong and
both flutes match, you're golden.

I'll play with the thing some more to see what it does to larger bits and
to see if the thing runs better once the plastic starts to wear in some
more and the high points on the cutting drum get knocked off.

They seem to be a love or hate type of machine. Any other first hand
stories here with a drill doctor?

On 09/09/2015 6:51 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
....

Picked up a Black and Decker drill sharpener last week..motor was not
turning..lubed the bearings and it spins up now. Havent tried it
yet..anyone know anything about them visa vis utility?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker...-/171876878517

There's a much older version of those here that Dad had for ages...it's
got many of the same issues for sharpening outlined above--just too
sloppy to really be of much value.

Perhaps the newer one is better but I'd be _very_ surprised if it's of
any real value to anybody but the most homebound of the casual homeowner
type...

--

On Wed, 9 Sep 2015 22:31:56 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote:

I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last night.

- construction is rather cheap, the quality of the plastic parts do seem
ok though, there' just too many of them. The thing wobbles around on the
table in the instruction video. The markings are crude and vague.
Everything it just a white dot. The parts are too complex for no reason.
I don't get it at all. The amount of knurles and holes and other crap on
the "dust cap" is mind blowing.

- the goofy looking cone device that holds the bit is just a chuck with
six sheet metal fingers for the jaws. It actually seems fine for the task.

- precision of the cam mechanism that lifts and rolls the drill bit across
the diamond drum is sloppy at best. It's just a bunch of plastic that
feels loose yet tight at the same time. It feels like there's plastic
springs in there, somewhere. The internal mechanism is some sort of cheap
die cast metal, but there's just too must plastic crap in the way for it
to be stable.

- the plastic door for cheaning out drill bit dust is a joke. It's like a
crappy remote control battery door that's too hard to operate and will
just snap off. It doesn't have to be made that way either. Cheap and fake
best describe that part.

Tried a 3/32" HSS bit at first. The thing leff jagged burrs all over the
cutting edge, had to stone those off after prying them up with my
fingernail. The bit works fine on wood, sort of struggles with aluminum.

The tried a bit around 1/16". Worked fine, no problems.

5/64th bit seemed ok, the cut surfaces still seemed too rough though, even
when cut with very gentle pressure.

Tried a cobalt bit that was also around 3/32" but had that weird high
speed spiral twist. Not sure what they're called. Tried to grind that to
132 degrees but the thing ended up completely flat like and endmill.
Something with the aggressive twist is messing up the "timing" of the
machine when you align the bit in the chuck. The video and PDF manual
mention nothing about how to deal with this sort of drill bit.

Next I tried the split point feature where you jam the bit into the side
of the machine and the side of the cutting drum cut into the bit at about
90 degrees. Since the fit of the plastic chuck and metal casting is tight
you have basically no control and it's all trial and error to even out the
flutes. What they show in the video is complete and utter nonsense.

The little machine really does cut bits rather quickly, but the cutting
drum is rather aggressive and the finish is really rough, even with a very
light touch. The cut surfaces are not smooth and really need to be stoned.

So far, it's a thumbs down. there's nothing the drill doctor can do other
than make a split point that I can't do by hand with my Tormek grinding
wheel. The Tormek can leave a mirror smooth finish if you want, and since
you can see and feel the cutting action you can control it quite
accurately, even by hand. Even if the angle you use is a little wrong and
both flutes match, you're golden.

I'll play with the thing some more to see what it does to larger bits and
to see if the thing runs better once the plastic starts to wear in some
more and the high points on the cutting drum get knocked off.

They seem to be a love or hate type of machine. Any other first hand
stories here with a drill doctor?


The stuff I do (all hobby and vehicle/tractor maintenance related) has
me drilling holes in a wide range of ferrous and non-ferrous alloys.
I seldom need to drill holes smaller than 3/16 - most holes are in the
#6-5/8" range

I'm satisfied enough that I keep using my 750X; but I only sharpen
regular HSS/cobalt twist drills - nothing with exotic twists, or tips.

One feature I seldom, if ever, use is the ability to grind split points.
I find that I can't make them reliably on my 750X. I think that's
because the fit of the chuck in the port is just too sloppy for precise
positioning.

I concur with all your points about the device's borderline
construction-but I think it's on par with its "economy" price point.

As to the finish left on my drills, I haven't had any severe issues with
the grind finish you reported; I get reltively smooth "satin-like", no
burs finish. I wonder if someone could have the coarse wheel in yours?

Bill
--
Email address is a Spam trap.

From a light user... Besides using a finer grit wheel, seems that light
pressure (as you say) and slow turning would help. I have the cheapest
model, it works okay. There is such a thing as high-quality plastic and
they could use it.

Bill wrote:

One feature I seldom, if ever, use is the ability to grind split
points. I find that I can't make them reliably on my 750X.

Thanks for the warning.

I concur with all your points about the device's borderline
construction-but I think it's on par with its "economy" price point.

Agreed it's borderline but should be better considering the price of the
competition.

On Wed, 09 Sep 2015 19:05:58 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 09/09/2015 6:51 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
...

Picked up a Black and Decker drill sharpener last week..motor was not
turning..lubed the bearings and it spins up now. Havent tried it
yet..anyone know anything about them visa vis utility?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker...-/171876878517

There's a much older version of those here that Dad had for ages...it's
got many of the same issues for sharpening outlined above--just too
sloppy to really be of much value.

Perhaps the newer one is better but I'd be _very_ surprised if it's of
any real value to anybody but the most homebound of the casual homeowner
type...

But..but...Its Black and Decker!! And its
Made in the USA!!

(Grin)

I probably should have kept the Black Diamond sharpener....shrug. But
Id never put it to good use.

Gunner

Cydrome Leader writes:

I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last night.

Gee, I've been using a little gadget I bought at Sears in the 70s with
great results. Has the same adjustable degrees of freedom as an
industrial version I used in a Michelin millwright/machine shop
mounted on a big pedestal grinder. The Michelin one handled over 2"
dia. while mine only does less than 3/4". Dunno what it's called or
who made it, unpromising pot metal construction but no problems in 40
years. Keep it mounted on its own little wheeled stand with a cheapo
spindle, old pump motor and the right side-grind wheel.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Mike Spencer wrote:

Cydrome Leader writes:

I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last night.

Gee, I've been using a little gadget I bought at Sears in the 70s with
great results. Has the same adjustable degrees of freedom as an
industrial version I used in a Michelin millwright/machine shop
mounted on a big pedestal grinder. The Michelin one handled over 2"
dia. while mine only does less than 3/4". Dunno what it's called or
who made it, unpromising pot metal construction but no problems in 40
years. Keep it mounted on its own little wheeled stand with a cheapo
spindle, old pump motor and the right side-grind wheel.

Post a YouTube video, or at least a picture. Or find a picture of it on
google images or wherever.

John Doe wrote:
Mike Spencer wrote:

Cydrome Leader writes:

I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last night.
Gee, I've been using a little gadget I bought at Sears in the 70s with
great results. Has the same adjustable degrees of freedom as an
industrial version I used in a Michelin millwright/machine shop
mounted on a big pedestal grinder. The Michelin one handled over 2"
dia. while mine only does less than 3/4". Dunno what it's called or
who made it, unpromising pot metal construction but no problems in 40
years. Keep it mounted on its own little wheeled stand with a cheapo
spindle, old pump motor and the right side-grind wheel.

Post a YouTube video, or at least a picture. Or find a picture of it on
google images or wherever.

Sounds like the old General Tools No.825 AKA Craftsman #6677 drill jig.
Been around for ages AND if you pay attention to the directions they
work real well.

http://www.generaltools.com/825--Ori...ent_p_213.html

in use
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQuFlmIPw3A

I have one myself and the only things I did different was to go buy a
separate grinder and side cutting wheel so it could be used easier.
I mounted it so that the wheel cuts at 90 degrees to the cutting edge on
the flute. That was done by simply attaching the jig on the centerline
of the grinder shaft so it contacts the wheel at the top. This was done
in response to a few people commenting on the bit orientation causing
possible fractures of the cutting edge due to the stress risers from the
grinding marks.

--
Steve W.

On 09/09/15 23:31, Cydrome Leader wrote:
I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last night.

- construction is rather cheap, the quality of the plastic parts do seem
ok though, there' just too many of them. The thing wobbles around on the
table in the instruction video. The markings are crude and vague.
Everything it just a white dot. The parts are too complex for no reason.
I don't get it at all. The amount of knurles and holes and other crap on
the "dust cap" is mind blowing.

- the goofy looking cone device that holds the bit is just a chuck with
six sheet metal fingers for the jaws. It actually seems fine for the task.

- precision of the cam mechanism that lifts and rolls the drill bit across
the diamond drum is sloppy at best. It's just a bunch of plastic that
feels loose yet tight at the same time. It feels like there's plastic
springs in there, somewhere. The internal mechanism is some sort of cheap
die cast metal, but there's just too must plastic crap in the way for it
to be stable.

- the plastic door for cheaning out drill bit dust is a joke. It's like a
crappy remote control battery door that's too hard to operate and will
just snap off. It doesn't have to be made that way either. Cheap and fake
best describe that part.

Tried a 3/32" HSS bit at first. The thing leff jagged burrs all over the
cutting edge, had to stone those off after prying them up with my
fingernail. The bit works fine on wood, sort of struggles with aluminum.

The tried a bit around 1/16". Worked fine, no problems.

5/64th bit seemed ok, the cut surfaces still seemed too rough though, even
when cut with very gentle pressure.

Tried a cobalt bit that was also around 3/32" but had that weird high
speed spiral twist. Not sure what they're called. Tried to grind that to
132 degrees but the thing ended up completely flat like and endmill.
Something with the aggressive twist is messing up the "timing" of the
machine when you align the bit in the chuck. The video and PDF manual
mention nothing about how to deal with this sort of drill bit.

Next I tried the split point feature where you jam the bit into the side
of the machine and the side of the cutting drum cut into the bit at about
90 degrees. Since the fit of the plastic chuck and metal casting is tight
you have basically no control and it's all trial and error to even out the
flutes. What they show in the video is complete and utter nonsense.

The little machine really does cut bits rather quickly, but the cutting
drum is rather aggressive and the finish is really rough, even with a very
light touch. The cut surfaces are not smooth and really need to be stoned.

So far, it's a thumbs down. there's nothing the drill doctor can do other
than make a split point that I can't do by hand with my Tormek grinding
wheel. The Tormek can leave a mirror smooth finish if you want, and since
you can see and feel the cutting action you can control it quite
accurately, even by hand. Even if the angle you use is a little wrong and
both flutes match, you're golden.

I'll play with the thing some more to see what it does to larger bits and
to see if the thing runs better once the plastic starts to wear in some
more and the high points on the cutting drum get knocked off.

They seem to be a love or hate type of machine. Any other first hand
stories here with a drill doctor?



I bought a DD about 15 years ago and my first impression was it was a
POS and I'd wasted my money but after playing with it for a bit and
learning to use it and its quirks I quite like it and it gets used often
enough to have more than paid for itself. I like the split point feature
and often add that to drills which didn't have that before. Mine is the
older style and if you have a newer one I thought they were supposed to
be an improvement. Give it a bit more time before you write it off.

"David Billington" wrote in message
...
On 09/09/15 23:31, Cydrome Leader wrote:
I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in
concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last
night.

- construction is rather cheap, the quality of the plastic parts do
seem
ok though, there' just too many of them. The thing wobbles around
on the
table in the instruction video. The markings are crude and vague.
Everything it just a white dot. The parts are too complex for no
reason.
I don't get it at all. The amount of knurles and holes and other
crap on
the "dust cap" is mind blowing.

- the goofy looking cone device that holds the bit is just a chuck
with
six sheet metal fingers for the jaws. It actually seems fine for
the task.

- precision of the cam mechanism that lifts and rolls the drill bit
across
the diamond drum is sloppy at best. It's just a bunch of plastic
that
feels loose yet tight at the same time. It feels like there's
plastic
springs in there, somewhere. The internal mechanism is some sort of
cheap
die cast metal, but there's just too must plastic crap in the way
for it
to be stable.

- the plastic door for cheaning out drill bit dust is a joke. It's
like a
crappy remote control battery door that's too hard to operate and
will
just snap off. It doesn't have to be made that way either. Cheap
and fake
best describe that part.

Tried a 3/32" HSS bit at first. The thing leff jagged burrs all
over the
cutting edge, had to stone those off after prying them up with my
fingernail. The bit works fine on wood, sort of struggles with
aluminum.

The tried a bit around 1/16". Worked fine, no problems.

5/64th bit seemed ok, the cut surfaces still seemed too rough
though, even
when cut with very gentle pressure.

Tried a cobalt bit that was also around 3/32" but had that weird
high
speed spiral twist. Not sure what they're called. Tried to grind
that to
132 degrees but the thing ended up completely flat like and
endmill.
Something with the aggressive twist is messing up the "timing" of
the
machine when you align the bit in the chuck. The video and PDF
manual
mention nothing about how to deal with this sort of drill bit.

Next I tried the split point feature where you jam the bit into the
side
of the machine and the side of the cutting drum cut into the bit at
about
90 degrees. Since the fit of the plastic chuck and metal casting is
tight
you have basically no control and it's all trial and error to even
out the
flutes. What they show in the video is complete and utter nonsense.

The little machine really does cut bits rather quickly, but the
cutting
drum is rather aggressive and the finish is really rough, even with
a very
light touch. The cut surfaces are not smooth and really need to be
stoned.

So far, it's a thumbs down. there's nothing the drill doctor can do
other
than make a split point that I can't do by hand with my Tormek
grinding
wheel. The Tormek can leave a mirror smooth finish if you want, and
since
you can see and feel the cutting action you can control it quite
accurately, even by hand. Even if the angle you use is a little
wrong and
both flutes match, you're golden.

I'll play with the thing some more to see what it does to larger
bits and
to see if the thing runs better once the plastic starts to wear in
some
more and the high points on the cutting drum get knocked off.

They seem to be a love or hate type of machine. Any other first
hand
stories here with a drill doctor?



I bought a DD about 15 years ago and my first impression was it was
a POS and I'd wasted my money but after playing with it for a bit
and learning to use it and its quirks I quite like it and it gets
used often enough to have more than paid for itself. I like the
split point feature and often add that to drills which didn't have
that before. Mine is the older style and if you have a newer one I
thought they were supposed to be an improvement. Give it a bit more
time before you write it off.

When Curt Anderson of DD was posting here he mentioned turning the
chuck backwards after tightening it, until the blades were straight
opposite each other instead of slightly spiral. When I do that it
works pretty well most of the time. When it doesn't the angle in the
center web is wrong compared to a new bit.

-jsw

On Thu, 10 Sep 2015 10:00:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"David Billington" wrote in message
...

They seem to be a love or hate type of machine. Any other first
hand
stories here with a drill doctor?



I bought a DD about 15 years ago and my first impression was it was
a POS and I'd wasted my money but after playing with it for a bit
and learning to use it and its quirks I quite like it and it gets
used often enough to have more than paid for itself. I like the
split point feature and often add that to drills which didn't have
that before. Mine is the older style and if you have a newer one I
thought they were supposed to be an improvement. Give it a bit more
time before you write it off.

When Curt Anderson of DD was posting here he mentioned turning the
chuck backwards after tightening it, until the blades were straight
opposite each other instead of slightly spiral. When I do that it
works pretty well most of the time. When it doesn't the angle in the
center web is wrong compared to a new bit.

No wonder there are so many bad reviews of DD, if the instructions
don't tell you how to properly position the bit in the holder.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 Sep 2015 10:00:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"David Billington" wrote in message
...

They seem to be a love or hate type of machine. Any other first
hand
stories here with a drill doctor?



I bought a DD about 15 years ago and my first impression was it
was
a POS and I'd wasted my money but after playing with it for a bit
and learning to use it and its quirks I quite like it and it gets
used often enough to have more than paid for itself. I like the
split point feature and often add that to drills which didn't have
that before. Mine is the older style and if you have a newer one I
thought they were supposed to be an improvement. Give it a bit
more
time before you write it off.

When Curt Anderson of DD was posting here he mentioned turning the
chuck backwards after tightening it, until the blades were straight
opposite each other instead of slightly spiral. When I do that it
works pretty well most of the time. When it doesn't the angle in the
center web is wrong compared to a new bit.

No wonder there are so many bad reviews of DD, if the instructions
don't tell you how to properly position the bit in the holder.

The chuck doesn't have to be tightened that far to properly hold the
bit, but it's easy to do if you are used to judging appropriate torque
by size.

-jsw

Steve W. wrote:
John Doe wrote:
Mike Spencer wrote:

Cydrome Leader writes:

I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in
concept. Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last
night.
Gee, I've been using a little gadget I bought at Sears in the 70s
with great results. Has the same adjustable degrees of freedom as
an industrial version I used in a Michelin millwright/machine shop
mounted on a big pedestal grinder. The Michelin one handled over 2"
dia. while mine only does less than 3/4". Dunno what it's called or
who made it, unpromising pot metal construction but no problems in
40 years. Keep it mounted on its own little wheeled stand with a
cheapo spindle, old pump motor and the right side-grind wheel.

Post a YouTube video, or at least a picture. Or find a picture of it
on google images or wherever.

Sounds like the old General Tools No.825 AKA Craftsman #6677 drill
jig. Been around for ages AND if you pay attention to the directions
they work real well.

http://www.generaltools.com/825--Ori...ent_p_213.html

in use
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQuFlmIPw3A

I have one myself and the only things I did different was to go buy a
separate grinder and side cutting wheel so it could be used easier.
I mounted it so that the wheel cuts at 90 degrees to the cutting edge
on the flute. That was done by simply attaching the jig on the
centerline of the grinder shaft so it contacts the wheel at the top.
This was done in response to a few people commenting on the bit
orientation causing possible fractures of the cutting edge due to the
stress risers from the grinding marks.

I've got a DD350 , can't get it to cut the relief properly . I also have one
of the Sears ones somewhere out in my shop - I've never set it up because it
requires a dedicated wheel and I haven't had a grinder bolted down to use it
.. The grinder is bolted down now , guess i better get a proper wheel on it
and try that puppy out .

--
Snag

On Thu, 10 Sep 2015 13:19:35 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Steve W. wrote:
John Doe wrote:
Mike Spencer wrote:

Cydrome Leader writes:

I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in
concept. Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last
night.
Gee, I've been using a little gadget I bought at Sears in the 70s
with great results. Has the same adjustable degrees of freedom as
an industrial version I used in a Michelin millwright/machine shop
mounted on a big pedestal grinder. The Michelin one handled over 2"
dia. while mine only does less than 3/4". Dunno what it's called or
who made it, unpromising pot metal construction but no problems in
40 years. Keep it mounted on its own little wheeled stand with a
cheapo spindle, old pump motor and the right side-grind wheel.

Post a YouTube video, or at least a picture. Or find a picture of it
on google images or wherever.

Sounds like the old General Tools No.825 AKA Craftsman #6677 drill
jig. Been around for ages AND if you pay attention to the directions
they work real well.

http://www.generaltools.com/825--Ori...ent_p_213.html

in use
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQuFlmIPw3A

I have one myself and the only things I did different was to go buy a
separate grinder and side cutting wheel so it could be used easier.
I mounted it so that the wheel cuts at 90 degrees to the cutting edge
on the flute. That was done by simply attaching the jig on the
centerline of the grinder shaft so it contacts the wheel at the top.
This was done in response to a few people commenting on the bit
orientation causing possible fractures of the cutting edge due to the
stress risers from the grinding marks.

I've got a DD350 , can't get it to cut the relief properly . I also have one
of the Sears ones somewhere out in my shop - I've never set it up because it
requires a dedicated wheel and I haven't had a grinder bolted down to use it
. The grinder is bolted down now , guess i better get a proper wheel on it
and try that puppy out .

One of my favorite drill grinders

http://www.sterlingdrillgrinder.com/

On 10 Sep 2015 01:37:42 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Cydrome Leader writes:

I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last night.

Gee, I've been using a little gadget I bought at Sears in the 70s with
great results. Has the same adjustable degrees of freedom as an
industrial version I used in a Michelin millwright/machine shop
mounted on a big pedestal grinder. The Michelin one handled over 2"
dia. while mine only does less than 3/4". Dunno what it's called or
who made it, unpromising pot metal construction but no problems in 40
years. Keep it mounted on its own little wheeled stand with a cheapo
spindle, old pump motor and the right side-grind wheel.
General make one version which I will someday set up with a surplus
angle driver for rough sharpening. Until then I will use my shop
teachers "rock and roll" method as described by "Teenut". this leaves
my DD750X to do the final grind which is satisfactory to my
requirements. t
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada

On Wed, 09 Sep 2015 16:51:30 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 9 Sep 2015 22:31:56 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I grabbed a drill doctor 750X to play with. It sounds great in concept.

Here's my first thoughts from playing with it for an hour last night.

- construction is rather cheap, the quality of the plastic parts do seem
ok though, there' just too many of them. The thing wobbles around on the
table in the instruction video. The markings are crude and vague.
Everything it just a white dot. The parts are too complex for no reason.
I don't get it at all. The amount of knurles and holes and other crap on
the "dust cap" is mind blowing.

- the goofy looking cone device that holds the bit is just a chuck with
six sheet metal fingers for the jaws. It actually seems fine for the task.

- precision of the cam mechanism that lifts and rolls the drill bit across
the diamond drum is sloppy at best. It's just a bunch of plastic that
feels loose yet tight at the same time. It feels like there's plastic
springs in there, somewhere. The internal mechanism is some sort of cheap
die cast metal, but there's just too must plastic crap in the way for it
to be stable.

- the plastic door for cheaning out drill bit dust is a joke. It's like a
crappy remote control battery door that's too hard to operate and will
just snap off. It doesn't have to be made that way either. Cheap and fake
best describe that part.

Tried a 3/32" HSS bit at first. The thing leff jagged burrs all over the
cutting edge, had to stone those off after prying them up with my
fingernail. The bit works fine on wood, sort of struggles with aluminum.

The tried a bit around 1/16". Worked fine, no problems.

5/64th bit seemed ok, the cut surfaces still seemed too rough though, even
when cut with very gentle pressure.

Tried a cobalt bit that was also around 3/32" but had that weird high
speed spiral twist. Not sure what they're called. Tried to grind that to
132 degrees but the thing ended up completely flat like and endmill.
Something with the aggressive twist is messing up the "timing" of the
machine when you align the bit in the chuck. The video and PDF manual
mention nothing about how to deal with this sort of drill bit.

Next I tried the split point feature where you jam the bit into the side
of the machine and the side of the cutting drum cut into the bit at about
90 degrees. Since the fit of the plastic chuck and metal casting is tight
you have basically no control and it's all trial and error to even out the
flutes. What they show in the video is complete and utter nonsense.

The little machine really does cut bits rather quickly, but the cutting
drum is rather aggressive and the finish is really rough, even with a very
light touch. The cut surfaces are not smooth and really need to be stoned.

So far, it's a thumbs down. there's nothing the drill doctor can do other
than make a split point that I can't do by hand with my Tormek grinding
wheel. The Tormek can leave a mirror smooth finish if you want, and since
you can see and feel the cutting action you can control it quite
accurately, even by hand. Even if the angle you use is a little wrong and
both flutes match, you're golden.

I'll play with the thing some more to see what it does to larger bits and
to see if the thing runs better once the plastic starts to wear in some
more and the high points on the cutting drum get knocked off.

They seem to be a love or hate type of machine. Any other first hand
stories here with a drill doctor?

Ive got 1 or 2 of those little *******s kicking around the shop. Never
did much care for them..and for the same reasons you gave. I did
replace one wheel with a finer grit and it works "better". Maybe Ill
dig em out and offer em up here. They work well enough for non
ferrous drilling...shrug.

Darex M500 is what I use, when I use a bit sharpener. Its good. Not
great..but...good. I have a pair of them, one in storage.

Guy offered me a Black Diamond sharpener a couple weeks ago. It too
"works"..but digging through all the freaking collets for the "right
one" is a pain in the ass. I passed on it..and sold it for him for
$1500, along with the cabinet and a ****load of collets. Everybody
was happy.

Picked up a Black and Decker drill sharpener last week..motor was not
turning..lubed the bearings and it spins up now. Havent tried it
yet..anyone know anything about them visa vis utility?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker...-/171876878517

Gunner

When I first borrowed the B&D unit, I fell in love with it but when I
saw the price I gave up. Then I saw what a chap with no idea of drill
geometry accomplished, I gave up again. I bought the DD 750X for half
the price and have been quite happy with it. Juniors FiL was impressed
with the five pounds of "dead drills" I returned to him in usable
condition, including the half inch concrete drill minus the carbide
insert, dueley sharpened and labelled with a tag wired through a cross
driiled hole reading "DRILL SHAPED OBJECT, USE ONLE TO MAKE HOLES IN
ROOM TEMPERATURE BUTTER" - FiL totally lost it, but has availled
himself of the service of my DD a couple times since.
I am not impressed with the split point feature since it goes much too
far, but the outcome does work.
Broken bits and previous split points get a rough manual grind to
extend the life of the wheel.
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada

"Steve W." writes:

John Doe wrote:

Mike Spencer wrote:

Gee, I've been using a little gadget I bought at Sears in the 70s with
great results. Has the same adjustable degrees of freedom as an
industrial version I used in a Michelin millwright/machine shop
mounted on a big pedestal grinder. The Michelin one handled over 2"
dia. while mine only does less than 3/4". Dunno what it's called or
who made it, unpromising pot metal construction but no problems in 40
years. Keep it mounted on its own little wheeled stand with a cheapo
spindle, old pump motor and the right side-grind wheel.

Post a YouTube video, or at least a picture. Or find a picture of it on
google images or wherever.

Sounds like the old General Tools No.825 AKA Craftsman #6677 drill jig.
Been around for ages AND if you pay attention to the directions they
work real well.

http://www.generaltools.com/825--Ori...ent_p_213.html

Yeah, that's exactly what I have.

in use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQuFlmIPw3A

I have one myself and the only things I did different was to go buy a
separate grinder and side cutting wheel so it could be used easier.

Same here.

I mounted it so that the wheel cuts at 90 degrees to the cutting edge on
the flute. That was done by simply attaching the jig on the centerline
of the grinder shaft so it contacts the wheel at the top. This was done
in response to a few people commenting on the bit orientation causing
possible fractures of the cutting edge due to the stress risers from the
grinding marks.

Hadn't heard or thought of that. Something to keep in mind if
unexplained failures arise. Mine isn't mounted that way.

I recently saw a sharpener based on the same principle that was built
years ago by students at a trade/vocational school but I didn't have a
chance to try it out. Heavier construction than mine, workmanlike but
less elegant than the French version in the Michelin shop.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On Thu, 10 Sep 2015 10:00:29 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:

When Curt Anderson of DD was posting here he mentioned turning the
chuck backwards after tightening it, until the blades were straight
opposite each other instead of slightly spiral. When I do that it
works pretty well most of the time. When it doesn't the angle in the
center web is wrong compared to a new bit.

-jsw

Good info. Thanks.
--
Email address is a Spam trap.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

turn the chuck backwards after tightening it, until the blades are
straight opposite each other instead of slightly spiral

Sounds great, but I have no idea what that means.

Maybe it doesn't apply to the 350.

On Friday, September 11, 2015 at 1:01:08 PM UTC-4, John Doe wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

turn the chuck backwards after tightening it, until the blades are
straight opposite each other instead of slightly spiral

Sounds great, but I have no idea what that means.

Maybe it doesn't apply to the 350.

Near as I can guess, he means to loosen the chuck some after you tighten it to allow the spring-loaded arms to properly position the drill. Then, of course, you'd have to retighten the chuck.

If I'm wrong about this, I hope someone will correct me. Part of my time lately is spent in a shop with a badly abused collection of drills and a DD750. It seems like every time I go to drill a hole, I have to resharpen the bit, even if I've used it just recently - someone else has managed to abuse it to near death.

"rangerssuck" wrote in message
...
On Friday, September 11, 2015 at 1:01:08 PM UTC-4, John Doe wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

turn the chuck backwards after tightening it, until the blades are
straight opposite each other instead of slightly spiral

Sounds great, but I have no idea what that means.

Maybe it doesn't apply to the 350.

Near as I can guess, he means to loosen the chuck some after you
tighten it to allow the spring-loaded arms to properly position the
drill. Then, of course, you'd have to retighten the chuck.

If I'm wrong about this, I hope someone will correct me. Part of my
time lately is spent in a shop with a badly abused collection of
drills and a DD750. It seems like every time I go to drill a hole, I
have to resharpen the bit, even if I've used it just recently -
someone else has managed to abuse it to near death.

=====================

There's no need to retighten after backing off the fingers from spiral
to radial. The chucks are large enough in diameter to easily
overtighten and distort by hand.

I have the "Classic Model 500" plus a 3/4" chuck meant for the 750,
which works fine in the 500.
http://www.drilldoctor.com/drill-sha...model-500.html

http://www.drilldoctor.com/drill-sha...with-750x.html

-jsw

I don't recall that. I'll have to look at the video (VCR) IIRC
of the machine use.

The nose is not flat as they normally are. They are cone shaped.

I use a grinder stone to flatten them but don't use the basic way
anymore.

Mine is the 750 - I got it to fix a 3/4" drill that abused and split.

After I got the correct shape, I ground flats on the cone shape.

The drill doesn't work well as a cone face. There isn't a relief angle
for the work to be placed.

Martin

On 9/15/2015 11:44 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"rangerssuck" wrote in message
...
On Friday, September 11, 2015 at 1:01:08 PM UTC-4, John Doe wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

turn the chuck backwards after tightening it, until the blades are
straight opposite each other instead of slightly spiral

Sounds great, but I have no idea what that means.

Maybe it doesn't apply to the 350.

Near as I can guess, he means to loosen the chuck some after you
tighten it to allow the spring-loaded arms to properly position the
drill. Then, of course, you'd have to retighten the chuck.

If I'm wrong about this, I hope someone will correct me. Part of my
time lately is spent in a shop with a badly abused collection of
drills and a DD750. It seems like every time I go to drill a hole, I
have to resharpen the bit, even if I've used it just recently -
someone else has managed to abuse it to near death.

=====================

There's no need to retighten after backing off the fingers from spiral
to radial. The chucks are large enough in diameter to easily
overtighten and distort by hand.

I have the "Classic Model 500" plus a 3/4" chuck meant for the 750,
which works fine in the 500.
http://www.drilldoctor.com/drill-sha...model-500.html

http://www.drilldoctor.com/drill-sha...with-750x.html

-jsw