I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck removed
from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter. After removing
the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into the spindle sleeve and
loosened the Spindle draw bar. The instructions say that all I have to
do is gently tap the taper shank (hidden by the drill chuck?) and let the
drill chuck fall out. As you would guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and
no matter where I hit the drill chuck it remains fixed in the spindle. I
am using a hard rubber mallet. This machine is new and was shipped with
the drill chuck already installed on the spindle.

Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck from the
spindle?

Big Fred

--
posted from
http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...ll-605782-.htm
using PolytechForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to
rec.crafts.metalworking and other engineering groups

On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 19:18:02 +0000, Big Fred wrote:

[re eg http://www.harborfreight.com/two-speed-variable-bench-mill-drill-machine-44991.html]
I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck removed
from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter. After removing
the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into the spindle sleeve and
loosened the Spindle draw bar. The instructions say that all I have to
do is gently tap the taper shank (hidden by the drill chuck?) and let the
drill chuck fall out. As you would guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and
no matter where I hit the drill chuck it remains fixed in the spindle. I
am using a hard rubber mallet. This machine is new and was shipped with
the drill chuck already installed on the spindle.
....

Don't hit the drill chuck or the taper shank (which is an R8 taper).
Instead, after you loosen the drawbar half-a-dozen turns (such that it
still has numerous threads engaging the the R8 shank of the drill chuck,
and still has the 19mm nut on top) tap or rap the top of the drawbar.
One sharp tap should loosen it, and having the drawbar still engaged
keeps it from moving more than about 1/8" in this initial loosening
step. After it's loose you shouldn't need to tap it any more. (But
if the keyway in the R8 shank wasn't aligned with the alignment pin
inside the spindle, but incorrectly forced into place, it might not
come loose that easily.) Note, place a 6" cutoff of 2"x6" lumber on
the table below the spindle when changing collets or chucks.

Engage the crown nut and lock the clamp below the head to keep the
head from moving when you tap on the drawbar.

--
jiw

On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 19:18:02 +0000
Big Fred wrote:

snip
Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck from the
spindle?

Look at around 3:40 in this youtube video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZoRKgDoozg

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Big Fred wrote:
I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck
removed from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter. After
removing the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into the
spindle sleeve and loosened the Spindle draw bar. The instructions
say that all I have to do is gently tap the taper shank (hidden by
the drill chuck?) and let the drill chuck fall out. As you would
guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and no matter where I hit the
drill chuck it remains fixed in the spindle. I am using a hard rubber
mallet. This machine is new and was shipped with the drill chuck
already installed on the spindle.
Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck from
the spindle?

Big Fred

Rap the top of the drawbar sharply with a small hammer or a wood mallet . Be
sure you have the drawbar threaded well into the chuck taper so you don't
bugger up the threads on either . Once the taper pops loose you can unscrew
the drawbar . Be aware there is a locater pin in the spindle and a matching
groove in the collet or drill chuck adapter .
--
Snag

Terry Coombs wrote:

Big Fred wrote:
I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck
removed from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter. After
removing the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into the
spindle sleeve and loosened the Spindle draw bar. The instructions
say that all I have to do is gently tap the taper shank (hidden by
the drill chuck?) and let the drill chuck fall out. As you would
guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and no matter where I hit the
drill chuck it remains fixed in the spindle. I am using a hard rubber
mallet. This machine is new and was shipped with the drill chuck
already installed on the spindle.
Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck from
the spindle?

Big Fred

Rap the top of the drawbar sharply with a small hammer or a wood mallet . Be
sure you have the drawbar threaded well into the chuck taper so you don't
bugger up the threads on either . Once the taper pops loose you can unscrew
the drawbar .

This. Unscrew the drawbar a few turns and tap on it until the R8 taper
releases then finish unscrewing it and catching the released drill chuck
with R8 shank.

Be aware there is a locater pin in the spindle and a matching
groove in the collet or drill chuck adapter .

This is the key thing here, the HF mini mill is R8 taper, not the MT3
taper of some other brands of the mini mill (all made by Sieg). You can
not install an MT taper drill or the like in the HF mini mill spindle,
you have to use tooling that is R8 shank or that will fit in an R8
collet. The only exception is if you buy an R8 to MT adapter.

On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 19:18:02 +0000, Big Fred
wrote:

I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck removed
from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter. After removing
the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into the spindle sleeve and
loosened the Spindle draw bar. The instructions say that all I have to
do is gently tap the taper shank (hidden by the drill chuck?) and let the
drill chuck fall out. As you would guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and
no matter where I hit the drill chuck it remains fixed in the spindle. I
am using a hard rubber mallet. This machine is new and was shipped with
the drill chuck already installed on the spindle.

Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck from the
spindle?

Big Fred
=================
Nice looking unit http://tinyurl.com/28s88pp

You may have to reinsert the draw bar, finger tighten, and
back off about 1/2 turn and smack the end of the draw bar to
break the collet/shank loose. If you have one use a brass
hammer to give a shaper rap than a rubber one. Bridgeports
have a special wrench/hammer for this.
http://tinyurl.com/qjz4tn3

I am not familiar with this unit but similar units have a #2
Morse taper spindle which is a common drill chuck shank
size, and these are available threaded for a draw bar, as
are #2 Morse taper collets. http://tinyurl.com/p9zcpv2
These are also available in the Weldon style.
http://tinyurl.com/otrc7wn

When you extend the spindle are there slots on each side?
If so, assuming the drill shank is long enough to be seen in
the slot, you may need to use a wedge to pop the shank
loose. http://tinyurl.com/m6nqrtl

For completeness there are also wedges to remove the shank
from the chuck. http://tinyurl.com/pb5ognz

FWIW -- a reminder that because of the side loads [and
tendency to loosen] you should never use an end mill except
as a drill in a drill chuck, but always use a collet.


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 19:18:02 +0000, Big Fred
wrote:

I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck
removed from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter.
After removing the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into the
spindle sleeve and loosened the Spindle draw bar. The instructions
say that all I have to do is gently tap the taper shank (hidden by
the drill chuck?) and let the drill chuck fall out. As you would
guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and no matter where I hit the
drill chuck it remains fixed in the spindle. I am using a hard
rubber mallet. This machine is new and was shipped with the drill
chuck already installed on the spindle.

Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck
from the spindle?

Big Fred
=================
Nice looking unit http://tinyurl.com/28s88pp

You may have to reinsert the draw bar, finger tighten, and
back off about 1/2 turn and smack the end of the draw bar to
break the collet/shank loose. If you have one use a brass
hammer to give a shaper rap than a rubber one. Bridgeports
have a special wrench/hammer for this.
http://tinyurl.com/qjz4tn3

I am not familiar with this unit but similar units have a #2
Morse taper spindle which is a common drill chuck shank
size, and these are available threaded for a draw bar, as
are #2 Morse taper collets. http://tinyurl.com/p9zcpv2
These are also available in the Weldon style.
http://tinyurl.com/otrc7wn

When you extend the spindle are there slots on each side?
If so, assuming the drill shank is long enough to be seen in
the slot, you may need to use a wedge to pop the shank
loose. http://tinyurl.com/m6nqrtl

For completeness there are also wedges to remove the shank
from the chuck. http://tinyurl.com/pb5ognz

FWIW -- a reminder that because of the side loads [and
tendency to loosen] you should never use an end mill except
as a drill in a drill chuck, but always use a collet.

George , the HF website says this unit has an R-8 spindle . But your advice
about a half-turn loose then smack it with a mallet or hammer is spot-on . I
keep a 12 oz ball peen hammer on my mill bench for this and tapping pieces
down in the vise (as when using parallels) as I tighten it .

--
Snag

On Fri, 7 Nov 2014 18:26:56 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 19:18:02 +0000, Big Fred
wrote:

I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck
removed from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter.
After removing the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into the
spindle sleeve and loosened the Spindle draw bar. The instructions
say that all I have to do is gently tap the taper shank (hidden by
the drill chuck?) and let the drill chuck fall out. As you would
guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and no matter where I hit the
drill chuck it remains fixed in the spindle. I am using a hard
rubber mallet. This machine is new and was shipped with the drill
chuck already installed on the spindle.

Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck
from the spindle?

Big Fred
=================
Nice looking unit http://tinyurl.com/28s88pp

You may have to reinsert the draw bar, finger tighten, and
back off about 1/2 turn and smack the end of the draw bar to
break the collet/shank loose. If you have one use a brass
hammer to give a shaper rap than a rubber one. Bridgeports
have a special wrench/hammer for this.
http://tinyurl.com/qjz4tn3

I am not familiar with this unit but similar units have a #2
Morse taper spindle which is a common drill chuck shank
size, and these are available threaded for a draw bar, as
are #2 Morse taper collets. http://tinyurl.com/p9zcpv2
These are also available in the Weldon style.
http://tinyurl.com/otrc7wn

When you extend the spindle are there slots on each side?
If so, assuming the drill shank is long enough to be seen in
the slot, you may need to use a wedge to pop the shank
loose. http://tinyurl.com/m6nqrtl

For completeness there are also wedges to remove the shank
from the chuck. http://tinyurl.com/pb5ognz

FWIW -- a reminder that because of the side loads [and
tendency to loosen] you should never use an end mill except
as a drill in a drill chuck, but always use a collet.

George , the HF website says this unit has an R-8 spindle . But your advice
about a half-turn loose then smack it with a mallet or hammer is spot-on . I
keep a 12 oz ball peen hammer on my mill bench for this and tapping pieces
down in the vise (as when using parallels) as I tighten it .

Some people argue that a lead hammer is better for setting things in a
vice as it is said to be a "dead blow" whereas the steel hammer has a
certain amount of bounce back.
--
Cheers,

John B.

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 7 Nov 2014 18:26:56 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 19:18:02 +0000, Big Fred
wrote:

I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck
removed from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter.
After removing the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into
the spindle sleeve and loosened the Spindle draw bar. The
instructions say that all I have to do is gently tap the taper
shank (hidden by the drill chuck?) and let the drill chuck fall
out. As you would guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and no
matter where I hit the drill chuck it remains fixed in the
spindle. I am using a hard rubber mallet. This machine is new and
was shipped with the drill chuck already installed on the spindle.

Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck
from the spindle?

Big Fred
=================
Nice looking unit http://tinyurl.com/28s88pp

You may have to reinsert the draw bar, finger tighten, and
back off about 1/2 turn and smack the end of the draw bar to
break the collet/shank loose. If you have one use a brass
hammer to give a shaper rap than a rubber one. Bridgeports
have a special wrench/hammer for this.
http://tinyurl.com/qjz4tn3

I am not familiar with this unit but similar units have a #2
Morse taper spindle which is a common drill chuck shank
size, and these are available threaded for a draw bar, as
are #2 Morse taper collets. http://tinyurl.com/p9zcpv2
These are also available in the Weldon style.
http://tinyurl.com/otrc7wn

When you extend the spindle are there slots on each side?
If so, assuming the drill shank is long enough to be seen in
the slot, you may need to use a wedge to pop the shank
loose. http://tinyurl.com/m6nqrtl

For completeness there are also wedges to remove the shank
from the chuck. http://tinyurl.com/pb5ognz

FWIW -- a reminder that because of the side loads [and
tendency to loosen] you should never use an end mill except
as a drill in a drill chuck, but always use a collet.

George , the HF website says this unit has an R-8 spindle . But your
advice about a half-turn loose then smack it with a mallet or hammer
is spot-on . I keep a 12 oz ball peen hammer on my mill bench for
this and tapping pieces down in the vise (as when using parallels)
as I tighten it .

Some people argue that a lead hammer is better for setting things in a
vice as it is said to be a "dead blow" whereas the steel hammer has a
certain amount of bounce back.

Quite possibly true , too . I'd guess the "dead blow" comes from the lead
deforming when you strike . I think I'll cast up a couple of lead slugs for
the plastic mallet with replaceable faces . If it doesn't work out I can
always recast it back into ingots until I need it for bullets/balls . Hmm ,
make that one from pure lead and one from wheel weights .

--
Snag

On Fri, 7 Nov 2014 15:16:16 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Big Fred wrote:
I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck
removed from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter. After
removing the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into the
spindle sleeve and loosened the Spindle draw bar. The instructions
say that all I have to do is gently tap the taper shank (hidden by
the drill chuck?) and let the drill chuck fall out. As you would
guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and no matter where I hit the
drill chuck it remains fixed in the spindle. I am using a hard rubber
mallet. This machine is new and was shipped with the drill chuck
already installed on the spindle.
Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck from
the spindle?

Big Fred

Rap the top of the drawbar sharply with a small hammer or a wood mallet . Be
sure you have the drawbar threaded well into the chuck taper so you don't
bugger up the threads on either . Once the taper pops loose you can unscrew
the drawbar . Be aware there is a locater pin in the spindle and a matching
groove in the collet or drill chuck adapter .

If you haven't rounded the top end of the drawbar on the grinder yet,
do it now!

--
The more you know, the less you need.
-- Aboriginal Saying

On 11/7/2014 3:16 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Big Fred wrote:
I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck
removed from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter. After
removing the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into the
spindle sleeve and loosened the Spindle draw bar. The instructions
say that all I have to do is gently tap the taper shank (hidden by
the drill chuck?) and let the drill chuck fall out. As you would
guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and no matter where I hit the
drill chuck it remains fixed in the spindle. I am using a hard rubber
mallet. This machine is new and was shipped with the drill chuck
already installed on the spindle.
Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck from
the spindle?

Big Fred

Rap the top of the drawbar sharply with a small hammer or a wood mallet . Be
sure you have the drawbar threaded well into the chuck taper so you don't
bugger up the threads on either . Once the taper pops loose you can unscrew
the drawbar . Be aware there is a locater pin in the spindle and a matching
groove in the collet or drill chuck adapter .

In my mill if I have a stuck R8 I back off the drawbar maybe 1/8".
Keeping a long threaded section into the chuck or whatever. I snap it
with my black plastic hammer and the rod goes down 1/8 and the R8 is
free. Doesn't take more than a little downward direction to get it out.

Martin

On 11/7/2014 8:58 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
Some people argue that a lead hammer is better for setting things in a
vice as it is said to be a "dead blow" whereas the steel hammer has a
certain amount of bounce back.


Lead is also better than brass, as brass can work harden. Not that the
occasional tapping on a draw bar would cause it, but one shouldn't be
complacent about using a brass hammer. This one of those DAMHIKT
things, that happened to involve a stuck lathe spindle. Fortunately the
damage did not affect its functionality.

Bob

On Fri, 7 Nov 2014 20:13:11 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 7 Nov 2014 18:26:56 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 19:18:02 +0000, Big Fred
wrote:

I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck
removed from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter.
After removing the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into
the spindle sleeve and loosened the Spindle draw bar. The
instructions say that all I have to do is gently tap the taper
shank (hidden by the drill chuck?) and let the drill chuck fall
out. As you would guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and no
matter where I hit the drill chuck it remains fixed in the
spindle. I am using a hard rubber mallet. This machine is new and
was shipped with the drill chuck already installed on the spindle.

Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck
from the spindle?

Big Fred
=================
Nice looking unit http://tinyurl.com/28s88pp

You may have to reinsert the draw bar, finger tighten, and
back off about 1/2 turn and smack the end of the draw bar to
break the collet/shank loose. If you have one use a brass
hammer to give a shaper rap than a rubber one. Bridgeports
have a special wrench/hammer for this.
http://tinyurl.com/qjz4tn3

I am not familiar with this unit but similar units have a #2
Morse taper spindle which is a common drill chuck shank
size, and these are available threaded for a draw bar, as
are #2 Morse taper collets. http://tinyurl.com/p9zcpv2
These are also available in the Weldon style.
http://tinyurl.com/otrc7wn

When you extend the spindle are there slots on each side?
If so, assuming the drill shank is long enough to be seen in
the slot, you may need to use a wedge to pop the shank
loose. http://tinyurl.com/m6nqrtl

For completeness there are also wedges to remove the shank
from the chuck. http://tinyurl.com/pb5ognz

FWIW -- a reminder that because of the side loads [and
tendency to loosen] you should never use an end mill except
as a drill in a drill chuck, but always use a collet.

George , the HF website says this unit has an R-8 spindle . But your
advice about a half-turn loose then smack it with a mallet or hammer
is spot-on . I keep a 12 oz ball peen hammer on my mill bench for
this and tapping pieces down in the vise (as when using parallels)
as I tighten it .

Some people argue that a lead hammer is better for setting things in a
vice as it is said to be a "dead blow" whereas the steel hammer has a
certain amount of bounce back.

Quite possibly true , too . I'd guess the "dead blow" comes from the lead
deforming when you strike . I think I'll cast up a couple of lead slugs for
the plastic mallet with replaceable faces . If it doesn't work out I can
always recast it back into ingots until I need it for bullets/balls . Hmm ,
make that one from pure lead and one from wheel weights .

I worked one place that had a "lead hammer mold". They had cut up some
1" tube to make handles, drilled one end and pressed in a cross pin to
hold the head better and just cast the heads onto the handles. Every
year or so they'd get all the shop's old battered lead hammers and
melt them down and recast new hammers.

--
Cheers,

John B.

On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 08:58:45 +0700, John B. Slocomb
wrote:

snip
Some people argue that a lead hammer is better for setting things in a
vice as it is said to be a "dead blow" whereas the steel hammer has a
certain amount of bounce back.

/snip Back in the late 50s when I started working in a
machine shop, several of the old timers had babbitt hammers
for this that they swore by. Seemed to be even softer than
lead. Every so often they would melt and recast their
hammer. Big complaint was that it was getting hard to find
babbitt. I just checked and new tin babbitt is available,
but is expensive
http://tinyurl.com/mcs42jt
http://tinyurl.com/pncyah2

IIRC the aerospace industry does not allow the use of
lead/babbitt hammers as this contaminates the metal. They
have special soft aluminum mallets. Anyone know if this is
true?


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On Fri, 7 Nov 2014 20:13:11 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 7 Nov 2014 18:26:56 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 19:18:02 +0000, Big Fred
wrote:

I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck
removed from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter.
After removing the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into
the spindle sleeve and loosened the Spindle draw bar. The
instructions say that all I have to do is gently tap the taper
shank (hidden by the drill chuck?) and let the drill chuck fall
out. As you would guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and no
matter where I hit the drill chuck it remains fixed in the
spindle. I am using a hard rubber mallet. This machine is new and
was shipped with the drill chuck already installed on the spindle.

Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck
from the spindle?

Big Fred
=================
Nice looking unit http://tinyurl.com/28s88pp

You may have to reinsert the draw bar, finger tighten, and
back off about 1/2 turn and smack the end of the draw bar to
break the collet/shank loose. If you have one use a brass
hammer to give a shaper rap than a rubber one. Bridgeports
have a special wrench/hammer for this.
http://tinyurl.com/qjz4tn3

I am not familiar with this unit but similar units have a #2
Morse taper spindle which is a common drill chuck shank
size, and these are available threaded for a draw bar, as
are #2 Morse taper collets. http://tinyurl.com/p9zcpv2
These are also available in the Weldon style.
http://tinyurl.com/otrc7wn

When you extend the spindle are there slots on each side?
If so, assuming the drill shank is long enough to be seen in
the slot, you may need to use a wedge to pop the shank
loose. http://tinyurl.com/m6nqrtl

For completeness there are also wedges to remove the shank
from the chuck. http://tinyurl.com/pb5ognz

FWIW -- a reminder that because of the side loads [and
tendency to loosen] you should never use an end mill except
as a drill in a drill chuck, but always use a collet.

George , the HF website says this unit has an R-8 spindle . But your
advice about a half-turn loose then smack it with a mallet or hammer
is spot-on . I keep a 12 oz ball peen hammer on my mill bench for
this and tapping pieces down in the vise (as when using parallels)
as I tighten it .

Some people argue that a lead hammer is better for setting things in a
vice as it is said to be a "dead blow" whereas the steel hammer has a
certain amount of bounce back.

Quite possibly true , too . I'd guess the "dead blow" comes from the lead
deforming when you strike . I think I'll cast up a couple of lead slugs for
the plastic mallet with replaceable faces . If it doesn't work out I can
always recast it back into ingots until I need it for bullets/balls . Hmm ,
make that one from pure lead and one from wheel weights .

Make it from wheel weights. Pure lead hammers are an utter pain in the
ass to maintain and they are so soft..they will simply Splooch on and
around the object to be beaten rather than apply all its force.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke