On Fri, 7 Nov 2014 20:13:11 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 7 Nov 2014 18:26:56 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 19:18:02 +0000, Big Fred
wrote:

I have a HF Mini-Mill #44991 that needs to have the drill chuck
removed from the spindle in order to install a taper shank cutter.
After removing the spindle cover, I inserted the Fixing Pin into
the spindle sleeve and loosened the Spindle draw bar. The
instructions say that all I have to do is gently tap the taper
shank (hidden by the drill chuck?) and let the drill chuck fall
out. As you would guess, the drill chuck is stubborn and no
matter where I hit the drill chuck it remains fixed in the
spindle. I am using a hard rubber mallet. This machine is new and
was shipped with the drill chuck already installed on the spindle.

Is there a book or a video showing how to remove the drill chuck
from the spindle?

Big Fred
=================
Nice looking unit http://tinyurl.com/28s88pp

You may have to reinsert the draw bar, finger tighten, and
back off about 1/2 turn and smack the end of the draw bar to
break the collet/shank loose. If you have one use a brass
hammer to give a shaper rap than a rubber one. Bridgeports
have a special wrench/hammer for this.
http://tinyurl.com/qjz4tn3

I am not familiar with this unit but similar units have a #2
Morse taper spindle which is a common drill chuck shank
size, and these are available threaded for a draw bar, as
are #2 Morse taper collets. http://tinyurl.com/p9zcpv2
These are also available in the Weldon style.
http://tinyurl.com/otrc7wn

When you extend the spindle are there slots on each side?
If so, assuming the drill shank is long enough to be seen in
the slot, you may need to use a wedge to pop the shank
loose. http://tinyurl.com/m6nqrtl

For completeness there are also wedges to remove the shank
from the chuck. http://tinyurl.com/pb5ognz

FWIW -- a reminder that because of the side loads [and
tendency to loosen] you should never use an end mill except
as a drill in a drill chuck, but always use a collet.

George , the HF website says this unit has an R-8 spindle . But your
advice about a half-turn loose then smack it with a mallet or hammer
is spot-on . I keep a 12 oz ball peen hammer on my mill bench for
this and tapping pieces down in the vise (as when using parallels)
as I tighten it .

Some people argue that a lead hammer is better for setting things in a
vice as it is said to be a "dead blow" whereas the steel hammer has a
certain amount of bounce back.

Quite possibly true , too . I'd guess the "dead blow" comes from the lead
deforming when you strike . I think I'll cast up a couple of lead slugs for
the plastic mallet with replaceable faces . If it doesn't work out I can
always recast it back into ingots until I need it for bullets/balls . Hmm ,
make that one from pure lead and one from wheel weights .

Make it from wheel weights. Pure lead hammers are an utter pain in the
ass to maintain and they are so soft..they will simply Splooch on and
around the object to be beaten rather than apply all its force.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke